China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair – Shanghai Attracts More than 7,000 Visitors

The 10th edition of the China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair – Shanghai ended with more than 7,000 visitors from 32 countries.

The event held November 6 – 9, at the Shanghai World Expo Exhibition and Convention Center, also featured 340 exhibitors from 21 countries.

“We always strive to make the Shanghai Fair an ideal springboard for jewelers who aim to enter China's vibrant jewellery market,” said Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia Ltd. “This year, we introduced a new element to the fair—the first-ever Korea Pavilion and the preview of Mineral & Gem Asia. This new feature joins other fair attractions, among them the Premier Pavilion, the largest Sri Lanka Pavilion in this fair’s history. Other group pavilions housing exhibitors from United States, Thailand and Taiwan region. The exhibits offered visitors a wide range of jewelry, diamonds, gemstones and jadeite from world-class suppliers as well as unmatched opportunity to network and see the latest trends.”

UBM China Holdings Ltd., hosted a seminar titled, “Investment and Collection of Mineral Crystals,” that provided information on the latest market information on gems and minerals.

“Shanghai is an important market for the jewelry trade, which is why we’ve been participating in the Shanghai Fair for many years,” said Safraz Jabir, color stone specialist of Safaiyers, a gemstone exporter of Sri Lanka, exhibiting at the fair. “We met many buyers, mainly from China, and received some orders with them. We are happy with the overall result.”

Con Arsenikakis of Olympic Opal Co Pty Ltd from Australia, said it was his first time at the fair.

“I am a retailer in Australia and I came to update myself with the latest trends,” he said. “The fair offers buyers a wide array of quality exhibits; I met my suppliers, mostly from Hong Kong.”

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Trade Association Jewelers of America Acquires Trade Publication National Jeweler

It’s one of those announcements saved for Friday afternoon in order to attract as a little attention as possible. However, it also seemed to coincide with Friday night’s Gem Awards gala in New York and a board of director's vote to approve the acquisition, held earlier in the day.

Whatever the reasoning for the late Friday announcement, the jewelry trade association, Jewelers of America, will enter into the publishing business by acquiring jewelry trade publication, National Jeweler. 

In a carefully worded statement on the JA website, it said it will purchase National Jeweler from Emerald Expositions, which owns the JA New York shows, Couture and tradeshows in several other markets. The tradeshow company, National Jeweler and JA already had a relationship through the two New York tradeshows. In fact JA and National Jeweler were both founded in 1906. 

The acquisition is expected to close by the end of the month. No reason was given for the acquisition and financial details were not disclosed.

The question is can a trade organization own a publication that is truly independent? JA, in its statement, took great pains to say yes. I have my doubts. 

“JA and National Jeweler will remain and act independent of each other,” the statement reads.

“National Jeweler is natural fit for our organization, as it shares our mission to be an informative resource to retail jewelry professionals,” David J. Bonaparte, JA President & CEO, said in the statement. 

Michelle Graff, editor-in-chief of National Jeweler, added, “We look forward to taking advantage of the additional resources being part of the JA team offers us, but we remain focused on our mission: to objectively deliver the news that retail jewelers need to run their businesses on a daily basis.” 

No matter how it’s being spun, it’s difficult not to see this as a publication that will lose at least some (if not all) of its independence. 

There are three major jewelry trade publishers left. The largest and most significant is JCK (my former employer). After facing the possibility of collapse during the 2008-2009 economic downturn, which dramatically impacted both the jewelry and publishing industries, Reed Expositions, which owns JCK tradeshows, took ownership of JCK. It gave publishing responsibilities to a third-party publisher: McMurry/TMG, a marketing company that creates custom magazines for a variety of organizations ranging from the Ritz-Carlton to WebMD. 

The result was a loss of editorial independence. 

The remaining independent publisher is Smart Work Media, which owns trade magazines InStore and InDesign magazines and the Smart Jewelry Show. These publications are the only ones left that truly targets jewelry retailers, something all of the publications should be doing, although it relies too much on old-school “industry experts” and not enough on its editorial staff. 

At a time when independent jewelry stores are closing at a significant rate, when young people are not entering the industry, and where the competition for disposable income is as intense as it has ever been, jewelry trade publications with independence are needed to provide leadership within the industry to tackle these problems. 

Instead, they continue to lose their voice. 

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Master Gem Carver Naomi Sarna Presents Her Jewels

Queen of the Sea is an elaborate brooch built around a natural Chinese pearl. It is made up of platinum, 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold, and oxidized sterling silver set with VS-G white diamonds, black diamonds, multicolored sapphires, faceted Ethiopian opals, and moonstones.

I still get surprised by the breadth and depth of the jewelry business. For example, I recently “discovered” gem carver and jewelry maker Naomi Sarna. And that’s only because I was contacted by the affable and hard-charging Georgia Fleming, a longtime luxury magazine salesperson who is serving as Sarna’s public relations representative.

Hand-carved 203.2-gram Rose de France amethyst.

The fact is I should have been aware of Sarna and her work as she’s been right under my nose as she has been racking up prizes at the Spectrum Awards for the past five years for her gem carvings and her one-of-a-kind jewelry. I did get to meet the energetic and good-natured Sarna in December and get an up close view of her work, which combines fluid shapes, motion, plenty of color, and a skilled combination of several jewelry-making techniques. It blends art with craft.

"His and His" rings, sizes 9 and 10.5. The size 9 ring features a 2.51 ct. natural, fancy dark orangey brown, SI2 diamond set in platinum along with multicolored orangey brown diamonds and a touch of 18k yellow gold. The size 10.5 ring features a 3.17 ct. natural, fancy dark orangey brown VS1 diamond set in platinum along with multicolored orangey brown diamonds and a touch of 18K yellow gold. 

The surprising thing about Sarna is that she has only been involved in gem carving and jewelry making for about five years, bursting onto the scene winning awards and accolades in a field that usually takes decades to perfect.

18k white gold petal set with approximately 650 gems, including VS-G white diamonds, yellow diamonds, pink diamonds, brown diamonds, green diamonds, amethysts and multi-colored sapphires.

This year alone, she took honors in the Spectrum Awards competition sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association for “Best Use of Pearls,” for an 18k rose gold necklace with white cultured pearls accented with pink diamonds; Platinum Honors for Men's Wear for her "His and His" rings featuring brown natural diamonds; and First Place for Gem Carving for her "Rose de France" 1,015-carat amethyst carving.

Pendant featuring a hand-carved aquamarine complimented by 18K white gold and VS-G white diamonds.

Sarna became successful enough in other businesses to have the financial freedom to dive full-time into gem carving and jewelry design. This and her longtime love of art and design is what she credits for her fast rise. As an art student she said she was fascinated by drapery in classical sculpture and Renaissance painting.

Brooch featuring an 80-ct. hand-carved aquamarine set in 18k white gold with VS-G white diamonds.

“I like to incorporate this love of the flow of fabric into my gem carvings and set pieces,” she said. “I think of my pieces as more than sculpture; the carving of the gem is only one part of the vision. The gem in its setting must also be in balance because there is a harmony between the jewel and the wearer. I enjoy the challenge of finding that balance and harmony.”

Pasha ring featuring a hand-carved 63.5 ct smoky quartz set in platinum and 18K yellow gold with VS-G white diamonds. 

Sarna treats her pearl jewelry differently. Whether natural or cultured, she will leave pearls alone, them in their original shapes, although she prefers unusual forms.

First Wave brooch featuring a Chinese freshwater pearl set in 18k yellow gold with multi-colored sapphires.

Her work has taken her many places including Tanzania, where she teaches the local Maasai people how to make jewelry. She does this in collaboration with TanzaniteOne, the largest and only commercial company that mines Tanzanite from the world’s only known source of the precious gem. Other mines in this region are set aside for artisanal miners from the local area.

147-gram hand-carved topaz titled "River Wind."

Her first time there she gave them 30 pliers so they create jewelry with wire. “I held them (the pliers) up and asked does anybody know what these are? They have never seen pliers before. I taught them how to do this. I knew they would be able to do it because they do fantastic bead work so I knew they would be able pick this up very quickly.”

She adds, “And off it went. It was love at first sight.”

Aquamarine Brooch featuring a hand-carved 91.64 ct aquamarine encased in 18k white gold set with VS-G white diamonds.

On her return trips she bought basic items like pencils and sunglasses.

One of her Tanzanite carvings, the 275-carat L'Heure Bleu mounted on a silver base serves as a special fundraiser for the Maasai. The cost of the piece includes a trip for four to Tanzania.

Ring featuring a hand-carved amethyst set in platinum with VS-G white diamonds.

“The mine gave me this crystal to carve and the sale of this crystal, which is pretty expensive, will include a trip for four people to Tanzania, go to a wonderful safari, and they’ll also get to meet the Maasai ladies and their families and go down to the mine. Most importantly, it will benefit people who are impoverished.”

Pearl ring with 18k yellow gold, multicolored diamonds and sapphires. 

Sarna works with a variety of gems but some of her favorites include opal and topaz.

Her brooches and rings are designed to fit properly so when they settle into place, it has the proper appearance.

“You know how rings flop over to the side,” she said. “Mine are designed to go over to the side right away. The way I designed the shank it has to go over this way. It becomes a part of your hand.”

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Lauren Bacall Auction to Include Jewelry by Schlumberger, Elizabeth Gage, Tiffany, Chanel and Cartier

Lauren Bacall wearing two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets
 on the same wrist, designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Photo credit: NBC/NBC via Getty Images

Lauren Bacall is known for her beauty, her distinctive voice, her high-profile marriage to actor Humphrey Bogart and her impeccable taste. She was less known for her jewelry collection.

Two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets by Jean Schlumberger with pre-sale estimates of $5,000 - $7,000 and $6,000 - $9,000. The actress was frequently pictured wearing the bracelets together (see top photo), layered on the same wrist. 

However, more than 30 items of the late actress’s jewelry will be part of the extensive 700-lot auction of the “Lauren Bacall Collection,” being offered by Bonhams New York on March 31 and April 1. It will include pieces by Chanel, Cartier, Tiffany, as well as her personal favorite, French jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987).

“Her jewelry was unique in that it reflected her personal taste and the fact she was very sentimental,” Susan Abeles, Bonhams’ head of Jewelry in the United States, said in a recent interview. “The pieces offered are timeless, understated and classic in design and represent the sophistication and glamour of a true Hollywood legend.”

Lauren Bacall wears Elizabeth Gage Camel Brooch while attending the Juvenile Diabetes Foundation Promise Ball Benefit Gala on
November 10, 1990, at Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York. Photo credit: Ron Galella, Ltd.

Abeles, who has been spending a great deal of time researching the life of Lauren Bacall to prepare for the auction, said the actress “didn’t have a tremendous amount of jewelry.” But the collection of rings, bracelets, brooches and earrings had personal significance.

The Elizabeth Gage Mogul-inspired Camel Brooch is made of 18k yellow gold enamel, cultured pearl, and rose diamond. It has a pre-sale estimate of $5,000 - $7,000.

For example, Abeles showed me a Tiffany & Co. gold necklace with dangling gold hearts. Each heart has a letter that spells out the phrase, “To my own beautiful star from my proud director Ron.” Abeles said that she believes the necklace was a gift from Ron Field, who directed Bacall in the Broadway play, “Applause.” Both Bacall and Field won Tony awards for their parts in the play.

Tiffany & Co. 18k yellow gold necklace necklace, each dangling heart has a letter that spells out the phrase, “To my own beautiful star from my proud director Ron.” It is believed that the necklace was a gift from Ron Field, who directed Bacall in the Broadway play, “Applause.” Both won Tony awards. It is shown with a gold pocket watch.

Although it isn’t documented Abeles is certain that Bacall and Schlumberger were friends. Bacall purchased many of her most prized Schlumberger pieces in Paris, where the designer lived and worked.

“I do like that she had a relationship with the designer,” Abeles said. “She had a great thirst for knowledge.”

A sampling of the Schlumberger pieces that are up for auction at Bonhams.

Standout Schlumberger pieces from the collection (all pictured above) include an 18k yellow gold and blue enamel bangle bracelet (estimate $20,000 - $30,000); an 18k yellow gold, diamond, amethyst and turquoise ring designed by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., (estimate $8,000 - $12,000); and a pair of amethyst, sapphire and emerald ear clips, mounted by Schlumberger (estimate $6,700 - $8,500).

Perhaps Bacall's most icon jewelry pieces are two 18k yellow gold ropework bracelets, (estimate $5,000 - $7,000 and $6,000 - $9,000). The actress was frequently pictured wearing the bracelets together, layered on the same wrist (top two photos).

Bacall also had personal relationships with other jewelers. One auction highlight is a Mogul-inspired, 18k yellow gold, enamel, cultured pearl, and rose diamond camel brooch by the British jeweler, Elizabeth Gage, (estimate $5,000 - $7,000). The brooch is accompanied by the original drawing and correspondence from the jeweler, which reveals collaboration and friendship between the two.

“Bacall’s style was unmistakably her own,” Abeles said. “Her jewelry collection represents a woman who knew her own style—one who wore the jewelry rather than the jewelry wearing her. Pieces that might have overshadowed another woman perfectly complemented her beauty.”

Another highlights of the sale is a pair of diamond and grey South Sea cultured pearl ear pendants by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co (estimate $4,600 - $6,700). 

Lauren Bacall

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Happy Holidays

Jewelry News Network will be taking a few days off for the holidays. We wish you and your loved ones a holiday filled with warmth and good spirits and a new year filled with peace and prosperity. 

A special thanks to Aneta-Monika Lidogoster for creating this wonderful holiday image.

Anthony DeMarco

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The 'Millennials’ Part 2 - insights Into What’s Shaping their Buying Habits

Angelka

By Chris Benham, co-founder and director of Inspired Jewellery Ltd.

Creating a luxury brand amid the information overload on the internet is increasingly becoming a challenge. As jewelry companies look to position themselves for the next generation of purchasers, I took the opportunity to two professionals in their early 20’s (the “Millennial Generation”) to share their views on what’s shaping their buying habits and how they are filtering through the holiday sale season madness.

In part one we heard from Hunter. Now we meet Angelka. They both provide valuable views into what’s important to them and insights into what investment jewelry companies need to make to win their trust and future business.

Angelka:

I think brands need to almost redefine themselves when marketing to millennials. With so much going on in our fast-paced lives, it’s extremely difficult to gain my attention if you’re not doing something interesting and memorable. Price is less of a determining factor, at least in the first instance to gain that attention. Brands and products need to connect with my personal values and lifestyle first and then offer incentives for me to buy their products and remain loyal.

Sustainability may seem like a buzz word to some people, but it is a value that is only going to grow in importance. Brands like The Earnest Workshop build their company ethos around sustainability and creating products that are of high quality, stand the test of time, yet have minimal impact on the environment. It is a company that I only happened to have a chance encounter with, but one that will stay in my mind, and I now enjoy following their progress to see what new pieces of furniture they are making.

Quality is another deciding factor - but genuine quality. Trilogy skincare is an example of a product which, thanks to word of mouth, I know to be of high quality - you can’t get more genuine than the recommendations of trusted peers; therefore I don’t buy anything else, even though there are cheaper alternatives. Add to that their simplistic, natural, organic and sustainable focus, and you’ve got a brand that I love.

The sports and fitness clothing store Lululemon is another example of a brand creating a buzz by aligning themselves with the millennial lifestyle. They advocate a healthy, free-spirited way of living, focusing on making the most of experiences and living in the moment. They offer free yoga and barre classes. Their gear is still pretty expensive so I’m yet to buy anything - but it was top of my Christmas wish list, so they’re doing all the right things.

For me personally, working in marketing, I feed off brands that are doing clever things in the marketing space. Kiwi chocolate brand Whittakers, and Australian brand Mimco are always active on social media, engaging with their customers and above all, leading the trends. That’s another reality - especially for females my age - brands need to be perceived as style and trend leaders, not followers.

I feel that the discount madness is overwhelming and it’s causing me to not buy at all. Each day I receive up to 20 promotional emails - most of them I delete, and I know I should unsubscribe, especially from the daily deal website emails. Even daily deal sites that are focused on high-end offers from the likes of fashion brands don’t get much attention because the background and brand stories are missing. Interestingly, the experience-related deals such as dining out, holidays, flights and accommodation still appeal. We do like to get deals where it matters.

With technology, shopping has become a well-thought out process. Extensive research is carried out for most purchases to narrow down my choice to only a few brands or stores. While price is still a factor, if I didn’t do this research beforehand based on what brands and products appeal to me personally, I’d go out and feel lost amongst all the discounts and promotions going on at the same time. Shopping in general is being replaced by other activities - there is definitely a lifestyle shift amongst people my age to valuing quality over quantity and seeking leisure time activities other than shopping at malls and big retailers.

So while price can still be a determining factor in my daily purchases, brands that want my attention and loyalty need to reach me on a different level. As my disposable income increases, it will be those brands that are top of mind and that I ultimately purchase from, not the brands that are promoting 40% off in tacky flashing lights.

Jewelry News Network guest columnist, Chris Benham, is co-founder and director of Inspired Jewellery Ltd., Wellington, New Zealand, a global creative studio for specialist jewelry design. 

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Shawish Opens Dreamy London Boutique

The staggered chandelier serves as central design element

Swiss high jeweler Shawish Genève continues to expand into new markets and ventures. Recently, it opened its first London boutique in the affluent central London neighborhood of Chelsea. 

The dream-like space matches its enchanted jewelry inspired by magical forests, fairytale legends and exploratory voyages.

The fish scale motif for the entrance

The facade of the space employs a motif in the likeness of colorful fish scales backed by black marble that reflect light in the same way that fish scales do in the sunlight. Inside, walls of neutral off-white shades and gray carpeting are offset by touches of purple, the Shawish corporate color. The centerpiece is a chandelier of luminescent glass tubes hanging in staggered columns a bit like stalactite formations in a cave. 

The display for the one-of-a-kind Octopus bracelet

Ten display cases contain the one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces in staged fantasy settings. For example, the Octopus bracelet sits on a pillow resembling an underwater throne surrounded by five columns. Two Teddy Bear pendants, which depict bejeweled teddy bears resting on crescent moons, are displayed in a night setting, with one on the corner of a starlit sky looking down on its partner resting on a cloud. 

The nighttime display for the Teddy Bear bracelet

Shawish’s Moonlight Necklace, with its twisted branches of white gold paved in white diamond, commands center stage in front of a portrait of an orange moon. Flanking the necklace are matching earrings and ring. In another display, jewels are encased in a frosty winter scene with mounds of snow below and stalactite formations above. Bejeweled Magic Mushroom pendants are suspended on the showroom floor near the entrance. 

The display for the Moonlight suite of jewelry

This is the company’s second boutique, the other being at its headquarters in Geneva. Mohamed Shawesh, co-founder, said the boutique was designed to reflect the cosmopolitan and quirky nature of London and its people. 

A winter scene for a jewelry display

“We are here for the wonderful weird people, the English flavor, and to stir up the international glamour factors of the city,” he said. “Most of all we’re here to celebrate high jewelry with a heartbeat.”

Magic Mushrooms hang about at the entrance of the boutique

The company is reportedly opening a third boutique in Dubai. So the expansion continues. 

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