Piaget To Unveil Record-Breaking Ultra-Thin Altiplano Chronograph

Piaget has released the first images of a new timepiece that it says sets records for the world’s thinnest chronograph movement and world’s thinnest chronograph timepiece.

The Altiplano Chronograph will be shown publicly for the first time at the 25th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, January 19 – 23 in Geneva. The luxury brand, known for its record-breaking achievements in its ultra-slim timepieces, says this is the first ultra-thin, hand-wound chronograph for Piaget in its ultra-thin Altiplano collection and the first one with a major complication.

The in-house 883P handwound chronograph caliber set a double slimness record for its 4.65 mm hand-wound flyback chronograph movement, and for its 8.24 mm case, the company said. This achievement was the result of two years of development at Piaget’s La Côte-aux-Fées, Switzerland, manufacturing facility.

The collection of ultra-thin parts to create the timepiece includes the cannon-pinion (0.12 mm), the barrel staff (0.115 mm) and the chronograph gear finger (0.06mm). The watch has a 50-hour power reserve. It displays hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, along with a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a 24-hour dual-time indication at 9 o’clock. Its flyback function serves to reset the chronograph hands to zero simply by pressing them and then automatically restarting a new timing cycle. In addition, the chronograph is controlled by a column-wheel responsible for coordinating its phases, and by a vertical coupling-clutch system ensuring precision. This movement, visible through the transparent case-back, has a circular Côtes de Genève stripe decoration, a circular-grained mainplate, beveled bridges, sunburst wheels and blue screws.

The dial features a sunburst satin-brushed finish, slender baton-type hands, and slim alternating single and double hour-markers. The chronograph counters are not hollowed as is usually the case, but appear on the same level as the rest of the dial. The elongated chronograph pushers blend into the curves of a streamlined ultra-thin 41 mm diameter case. It is complemented with an alligator leather strap fitted with a pin buckle. The watch is available in pink gold or white gold set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds (approximately 1.8 carats).

This timepiece is the latest representation of Piaget’s expertise in ultra-thin watches that dates back to 1957. The company has created 25 ultra-thin movements that hold 14 world records for their thinness.

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Italian Gold Jewelry the Focus of Arezzo Tradeshow

Nemesi

The city of Arezzo is a gold jewelry manufacturing center that symbolizes Italian design and craftsmanship. It’s where jewelry for the masses meets with the artistry and craftsmanship that are the hallmarks of Italian jewelry design.

Unoaerre

It is in this Tucson region where the Gold/Italy jewelry trade fair was held, October 25-27. With its focus on Italian jewelry design and craftsmanship from 220 companies in the region, the show attracted jewelry industry professionals throughout Italy and from 50 countries around the world. 

Eurocatene

Fashion was a big focus of this year’s show with runway events matching jewelry to apparel ranging from street clothes to elaborate gowns. It’s not going to be a one-year theme as the officials of the local gold jewelry industry sees its future as a partner with fashion companies. 

Artur Gold

“Made in Italy jewelry is the result of excellent manufacturing skill and a historical goldsmith tradition. We have an extraordinary product which must be taken advantage of. Only those who innovate can hope to change the world,” said Andrea Boldi, president of Arezzo Fiere e Congressi, which owns Gold/Italy and Oroarezzo. “Arezzo is the home of jewelry, and in our territory, we have always been linked to another top quality and world famous excellence, fashion.”

Fratelli Chini

He added, “We are working towards having buyers from the fashion world directly at the show because, nowadays, in an increasingly dynamic and global world, we must be able to create further business links. For this show, we have managed to achieve an important result. We will have 240 top international buyers who are estimated to create over 1.5 billion dollars in Made in Italy sales.”

Fratelli Bovo

This year’s show provided a good representation of the region’s artistry, with new creative designs, more traditional solid-gold fare, mixed jewelry pieces incorporating precious and semiprecious stones, and silver jewelry.

Gruppo Eclat

One of the things these artisans do well is create designs using finely woven gold mesh, in threads that in some cases are half the thickness of a human hair, shaped and molded into elaborate necklaces, earrings, brooches, and bracelets. The same type of variety and detail is present in gold-beaded pieces. Big, bold pieces, something Italians are noted for, were also evident as well color in many of the designs.

Mulino d'Oro

Two companies, Fratelli Bovo and Fratelli Chini, provided different examples of the mesh technique, with the first shaping the fine gold threads in a corkscrew pattern for a necklace, earrings and ring set; while the latter uses crisscross patterns that extend out into a series of semicircles for a bracelet. 

New Line

Unoaerre created a fine-beaded bracelet in a woven pattern that looked like ribbon. Another bracelet by Gruppo Eclat mixed yellow gold with a brown colored gold finished for a two-color thick bracelet in a tight woven pattern. 

Prestige

A few years ago, jewelry manufacturer, Nemesi, turned to 3D printing to create its jewels and now 90 percent of its pieces are made with this technology, which has freed the company creatively, said Paolo Cerofolini. “We can do anything,” he said. “The only limit is the market.” 

Aqua

He adds that the company has been in “full production” for the past five years and business continues to pick up as the price of gold has declined. 

Nemesi’s offerings included a two-stone ring made with threads of gold in random-like patterns and topped with a Japanese cultured pearl and a round faceted citrine. 

The Graziella Group provides jewelry in gold and silver in classic, modern and fashion designs for women of all ages. Its products extend to accessories, such as leather handbags and a quartz watch line. They sell to retailers and directly to consumers. Its major markets are in the Middle East, Dubai, Russia and China. 

Serena Cutini, a sales representative with the company, said it was not affected by the global downturn.

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16 Hearts and Arrows Diamonds Fetch $2.6 Million at Bonhams

Diamonds, jade and a collection of Marina B jewelry were among the top achievers for Bonhams Fine Jewellery and Jadeite auction in Hong Kong. 

The top lot of the November 26 sale was a collection of flawless hearts and arrows diamonds that sold for more than $2.6 million. The collection of 16 brilliant-cut diamonds classified as D color, flawless, internally flawless attracted “spirited” bidding, according to the auction house. 

Each gem is accompanied by its own report from the Gemological Institute of America. The individual weight of the 16 gems ranged from 1.16 to 4.49 carats for a total carat weight of 39.98. Each gem is accompanied by its own report from the Gemological Institute of America. 

Hearts and Arrows are described as a clearly defined set of eight hearts and eight arrows in a round diamond. “It is a sign of excellent optical symmetry, an important component of cut. As such, its appearance is a very likely a sign of superior cut, but not a guarantee.” 

Other highlights include the following:

* An emerald and diamond cluster ring featuring a cushion-shaped, 10.09-carat emerald surrounded by brilliant cut diamonds that sold for $933,588.

* A highly translucent jadeite bangle of a bright apple green color, suffused with intense green streaks that sold for $670,532. 

* A fine two-strand jadeite bead necklace comprising of 49 and 53 graduated bright emerald green jadeite beads of very good translucency with a cabochon jadeite clasp that sold for $670,532. 

* A collection of jewelry designed by Marina B fetched more than $1.2 million. The top lot was a sapphire and diamond “Amelia” necklace and earring suite by Marina B that sold for $624,111. The articulated necklace is set with 12 cushion shaped sapphires, the largest weighing 15.95 carats, within pear and brilliant-cut diamond surrounds, spaced by marquise and pear-shaped diamonds. It is accompanied by a pair of earrings. Total diamond carat weight is 92.30 and total carat weight of sapphires is 104.81, signed by Marina B. 

Graeme Thompson, director of Jewellery at Bonhams Asia said the sale “is testament to the strength of the Asian market for rare items such the flawless collection of Hearts and Arrows diamonds and the Marina B jewels.”

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Burmese Ruby and Diamond Necklace Highlights Sotheby’s Hong Kong Sale

Burmese rubies, colored diamonds and Cartier jewels led Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fine Jewels and Jadeite sale. 

The top lot was a ruby and diamond necklace with 50.57 carats of unheated “Pigeon’s Blood” Mogok Burmese rubies that sold for $805,128 (top photo). 

The necklace is set with 37 graduated oval rubies, decorated with approximately 42.70 carats of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds mounted in 18k white and yellow gold. 

Other items of note at the November 28 sale include the following: 

* A 13.88-carat fancy intense yellow diamond and white diamond ring sold for $466,667. The yellow diamond is flanked by two trapeze-shaped diamonds together weighing approximately 3 carats, mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold.

* A Cartier “Tiger” clip-brooch sold for $451,282, more than double its high estimate of $206,352. Set with brilliant-cut yellow diamonds and diamonds together weighing approximately 9.95 carats, speckled by onyx, embellished by pear-shaped emerald-set eyes, mounted in 18k yellow gold, signed and numbered.

* A 4.79-carat unheated “Pigeon’s Blood” Mogok Burmese ruby and diamond ring by Cartier sold for $435,897. The oval ruby is flanked on each side by a half-moon shaped diamond, decorated by brilliant cut and baguette diamonds together weighing approximately 1.30 carats, mounted in platinum, signed and numbered. 

* Fancy intense yellow diamond and white diamond ear clips that sold for $312,821. Each ear clip has a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 6.30 and 6.15 carats respectively, suspended from a pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds weighing a total of 4.45 carats, mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold.

The 180-lot auction of signed pieces, colored gems and diamonds, modern and vintage pieces, and a charity session to aid Operation Smile China Medical Mission, which provides free surgery to underprivileged children and young adults with cleft lips or cleft palates in China, fetched more than $7.85 million, with 87.2 percent of the items sold by lot and 75.8 percent sold by value. 

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Two Blue Sapphires Fetch Big Prices at Christie’s London Sale

A sapphire and diamond brooch, circa 1890s, centered with a 14.66-carat, Kashmir sapphire (pictured above) sold for nearly $2.2 million (150,000 per carat), nearly triple its 783,499 high estimate. It was the top lot at Christie’s London Important Jewels sale. 

The cushion shaped sapphire is surrounded by an old-cut diamond cluster raised on a scalloped gallery mounted in silver and gold. The auction house said the jewel was from the collection of the late Clive Behrens, and before that part of the collection of the late Evelina Rothschild. 

In addition, a sapphire and diamond pendant, circa 1880 (above), centered with a 41.54-carat Burma sapphire sold for more than $1.6 million ($39,000 per carat), more than triple its high estimate of $470,099. The sapphire on the gold plated pendant has an old-cut diamond line border and is further surrounded by cushion shaped diamonds. 

Both sapphires show no indications of being heat treated, according to the accompanying reports. 

Colored diamonds continue to demand high prices as a ring featuring a crossover design, set with two opposing pear shaped diamonds, a 1.54-carat fancy deep blue and a 1.78-carat fancy intense pink, sold for nearly $1.2 million, well above its $783,499 estimate.

The November 26 auction totaled $22.75 million in sales with 75 percent sold by lot and 89 percent sold by value. 

“The London sale of Important Jewels showed that quality, rarity and provenance continue to be the key factors sought by collectors worldwide,” said Keith Penton, head of Christie’s London Jewellery Department. 

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Giving Thanks for the Courage of Malala Yousafzai

Photo credit: Christopher Furlong

The Taliban didn’t know what it was up against when it picked a fight with Malala Yousafzai. 

Two years ago, the then 15-year-old native of northwest Pakistan was shot in the head by members the Muslim extremist group while on a bus to school because of her advocacy for education and equal rights for women. 

There was one problem with this brutal plan. She didn’t die from this act of extreme violence. In fact, her recovery has been described as miraculous. Nor did she and her family cower from her attackers, despite additional calls for her death. 

Now at the age of 17 living in Birmingham, England, Malala’s advocacy for women and for education is now an international movement and she is its star. The youngest person to ever receive a Nobel Peace Prize, she now commands audiences with world leaders and at events around the world. Every public appearance is an act of defiance, striking a blow against the religious extremist group. 

On October 21, Malala was in Philadelphia to receive The Liberty Medal, presented annually to those who "strive to secure the blessings of liberty to people the world over." Earlier in the day, she was a speaker at the Forbes Under 30 Summit, also in Philadelphia. This is where I had a chance to see her speak to a crowd of young entrepreneurs. 

Thanksgiving Day is a time when we give thanks for what we have. I give thanks for the access my job allows me to listen to someone with the courage of Malala Yousafzai. 

Being interviewed by Ronan Farrow of MSNBC, Malala describes her life as being divided between the normal routines of home and school and her advocacy for education and for women’s rights, appearing remarkably grounded when she discusses life at home and at school and even displaying a sly smile when discussing her relationship with her two brothers. She also hinted at very ambitious plans for her future.

“When I go outside I look 27 or 30 but when I go home I look 10 or 12, so at home I’m enjoying my time and fighting with my brothers, which is also quite nice sometimes. I try to tease them and annoy them. At home things are quite normal. I do my homework. I don’t feel like I am a global figure. When I go outside this is a role that I have right now speaking for girls’ education and for the education of every child. It’s not something that has been given to me by someone. It is what I have decided and it is what I’ve chosen for myself, so I’m happy with it. Malala, when she is home and she is in school she is a different person who has to obey her teachers. Here is the adult Malala, so these are two different parts of my life and I’m happy with that.”

There are also times when her two worlds intersect. For example, she was in chemistry class when she learned she won the Nobel Peace Prize. 

“They called an assembly at school. It was the first time I spoke on the stage at my school and I was so nervous,” she said. “I was not nervous at the UN. Not nervous here. But I was nervous at the school because the teachers were there and so were the students…. I told them that you are very lucky because you have such a great school. You have all the facilities. You have a science lab, a computer lab, you have wonderful teachers, you have good classrooms and chairs and tables, everything. But there are schools in some parts of the world where children do not have these facilities and some children do not have schools at all so you should be thankful that you have all these facilities and you are getting a quality education. It was a good opportunity to speak to my friends and speak to my teachers and thank all of them so I was very happy.”

She says at home or school she gets no special treatment. She also expresses thanks that her teachers challenge her at school. 

“They treat me like a normal student which is good in some ways and not good in some ways,” she said. “When I got the Nobel peace prize I was very busy with phone calls coming in and I couldn’t finish my English homework. So the next day my teacher asked me, ‘Where’s your homework?’ I said, ‘Miss I won the Nobel Peace Prize and I was quite busy and she replied ‘So what?’ and I said I will do it tomorrow.”

But when she talks about her advocacy, her resolve is apparent. 

“I fight for women’s rights and I believe everyone has equal rights as men have because why should there be a difference? … We have to change this idea that women are only suppose to work in the house not only just cooking and cleaning but she also has the ability to go outside and be in business, be a doctor, a teacher, an engineer. She should have a job as equally as men and she should be treated equally as men are. So I think equal treatment is very important and this is what Islam teaches.”

She jokes about the irony in her life of being a worldwide advocate for education and not being able to convince her brothers to study more.

“When I say to my younger brother are you doing your homework? Stop playing on the computer, he tells me to get lost,” she said. “I always tell them that you should focus on your education because when I go outside I tell every child that education is very important to you so at home I have two brothers who are not doing their homework and the younger is cheeky as well.”

She describes her life as being similar to a classic story. 

“I consider my story like a movie where in the beginning I have a happy life living a quality life in happiness and then a villain comes but in the end the villain loses and the hero wins and there’s a happy ending.”

When talking to world leaders she isn’t intimidated at all and focuses on keeping her message simple. 

“I have met a lot of people who are well known like presidents and prime ministers and I think it’s very important to reach out to those people and to ask them to contribute to education and make it very important and make it their top priority.”

She continued, “When I was in Pakistan, sometimes people ask me what do you say to the prime minister? And I say make sure every child goes to school but I think the prime minister wouldn’t be able to do it so I’m not going request the prime ministers anymore and when I grow up I’ll become a prime minister and I’ll bring the change.”

You can view video excerpts of Malala’s talk at the Forbes website.

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‘Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century’ At Denver Art Museum

Flamingo brooch worn by Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1940. Platinum, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, citrine; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nils Herrmann

It was the most creative time for what is arguably the supreme international jeweler of the 20th Century.

Necklace worn by Elizabeth Taylor. Cartier Paris, 1951, altered in 1953. Platinum, diamonds, rubies. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

The Denver Art Museum is the sole venue worldwide for “Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century,” on view till March 15, 2015. The exhibition contains more than 250 pieces of jewelry, timepieces and precious objects produced between 1900 and 1975. Most of the pieces are from the jeweler’s “Cartier Collection,” with items on loan from other museums and private collections.

Tiara worn by Mrs. Townsend Cartier. Cartier Paris, special order, 1905. Platinum, diamonds; Height at center 9.8 cm. Provenance: Mary Scott Townsend and Mrs. Donald McElroy. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

Curated by Margaret Young-Sánchez, curator of the museum’s Frederick and Jan Mayer Center, the exhibition celebrates and chronicles the creative rise of Cartier in the 20th Century and its place in the dynamic history of the period.

Necklace worn by Countess of Granard. Cartier London, special order, 1932. Platinum, diamonds, emerald; Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

It was a time when old world royalty was being replaced by democratically elected governments and when captains of industry, world class entertainers and a handful of politicians stood on equal terms with the old aristocracy. Cartier stood at the intersection of this cultural change and took a leadership role, creating jewelry, timepieces and objects of art for some of the most important and famous people of the period. The exhibition has items belonging to the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco, Dame Elizabeth Taylor, Franklin D. Roosevelt and Mexican film star María Félix.

Engagement Ring worn by Princess Grace of Monaco.Cartier Paris, 1956. Platinum, one 10.48-carat emerald-cut diamond, two baguette- cut diamonds. Palais Princier de Monaco 

This is an exhibition for those who cherish Cartier’s most creative period when it was a family-owned firm (family members sold the business in 1964).

Crocodile Necklace made for Maria Félix.Cartier Paris, special order, 1975. Gold, diamonds, emeralds, rubies; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

“The evolution of Cartier takes us on a journey through 20th century history, from the era of the last czars in Russia to the Roaring ’20s in America to the onset of Hollywood glamour as we know it,” said Christoph Heinrich, director of the Frederick and Jan Mayer Center. “Focusing in on the creativity and pioneering vision of the Cartier brothers and their designers, visitors will walk away not only in awe of Cartier’s stunning works of art but also aware of the drastic cultural shifts that took place throughout the history of the maison.”

Laurel Leaf Tiara owned by Marie Bonaparte. Cartier Paris, 1907. Platinum and diamonds. Qatar Museums Authority.

Cartier’s international clientele reflected the rapid changes of the 20th Century. The jeweler’s rise took place in the context of an increasingly cosmopolitan cultural scene and aligned with international social, political and economic trends. The exhibition will present a selection of themes that span time periods and styles to display the influence and innovation of the jeweler.  

Tiger Lorgnette owned by Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1954. Gold, enamel, emeralds, glass. Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Nick Welsh

Exhibition themes include: 

* Aristocracy and Aspiration: Focusing on objects from 1900–1918, this section features diamond, sapphire, rock crystal and pearl jewelry and enameled decorative items that showcase a refined and elegant aesthetic embraced by European royalty and aristocrats—and the wealthy Americans who aspired to join their social class. 

Stomacher Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1907. Platinum, sapphires, diamonds. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art Deco: New Outlook: Cartier was a leader in the Art Deco movement of the 1910s to 1920s that highlighted a bold look with a new emphasis on color and geometry. The firm used new materials in this era such as jade, coral and black onyx.

Necklace created for Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala. Cartier Paris, special order, 1928. Platinum, diamonds, zirconias, topazes, synthetic rubies, smoky quartz, citrine; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh  

* Art Deco: Foreign Fascination: After World War I, Cartier created original designs that incorporated exotic styles and materials including imported carved jade, lacquer and faience. This style culminated in the colorful tutti-frutti jewelry and sculptural mystery clocks. 

Tutti Frutti Strap Bracelet worn by Mrs. Cole Porter.Cartier Paris, 1929. Platinum, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies. Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Masculine View: Louis Cartier is credited with inventing the modern men’s wristwatch. The exhibition includes numerous models and styles, in addition to elegant and complex pocket watches, cuff links, pocket items, cocktail and desk accessories, and inscribed cigarette cases. Historic events commemorated by inscribed gift items made by Cartier are featured in the exhibition. 

Santos wristwatch, Cartier Paris, 1915. Gold, sapphire, leather strap. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art of Smoking: Textured, enameled and jeweled cigar cutters, cigarette cases and lighters from 1907 through the 1940s. 

Five-Dial Clock owned by Franklin D. Roosevelt.Cartier New York, 1930. Ebonite, silver, nephrite, enamel, clock movement. Private collection. 

* Age of Glamour: Designs from the 1930s to 1960s preferred by celebrities and “Café Society.”  

Set of Three Clip Brooches worn by Princess Grace of Monaco. Cartier Paris, 1955. Platinum, brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, three cabochon rubies weighing approximately 49 carats. Palais Princier de Monaco.  

More photographs from the exhibition can be viewed by following this link. 

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