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| The darkened JAR exhibition space. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
While stumbling in the dark bumping into other journalists (not literally but close) during the press preview of the “Jewels by JAR” exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a common theme emerged. It changed how they view jewelry. The room was dark, the jewelry (art works really) glowed in the orange and red display cases and dazzled nearly all who saw them.
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| Orange Peel Brooch, 2001; Garnets, diamonds, enamel, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
One prominent jewelry writer told me she doesn’t think she can ever wear jewelry again after seeing the 400 pieces on display. My lovely wife, who gets to view a lot of jewelry because of my work, no longer bothers to look at pieces that she now views as inferior.
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| Three Seashell Brooches, From top: Oriental pearls, diamonds, platinum, silver, gold; private collection, 2006. Spinels, rubies, silver, gold; private collection, 1990. and Spinels, diamonds, silver, gold; private collection, 2009. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
That’s the thing about viewing jewelry (or anything) that is truly unique as those created by Joel A. Rosenthal, who of course is the man behind JAR. It increases your knowledge of a subject. It increases the possibilities of what can be done with a strong philosophy and dedication to that core value. It changes how you view everything. It can even redefine the things you value.
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| Rose Brooch, 2013; rubies, sapphires, spinels, diamonds, silver, gold; private Collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
Not everyone got it. One person whom I know well came up to me in the dark and said she didn’t understand why the room had to be darkened. She didn’t get the jewelry. She didn’t understand how someone with absolutely no pedigree in the luxury jewelry world can suddenly move to Paris, set up shop at Place Vendôme, perhaps the world’s most famous shopping district, and gain such a reputation among the world’s wealthiest and most demanding jewelry buyers.
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| Lilac Brooches, 2001–2; diamonds, garnets, sapphires, aluminum, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
These are all fair questions that I’ve wondered about. It is unlikely we will ever get an answer. Rosenthal rarely gives interviews. He agreed to give a select few interviews for the exhibition, which opened Wednesday, including one with Vanessa Friedman of the Financial Times. She observed that Rosenthal pretty much does “what he wants, when he wants, for who he wants,” makes others in the creative professions envious. However, she added, “It is hard to know the kind of sacrifices it really demands.”
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| Snowflake Brooch, 2002; diamonds, platinum, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
There was something that Rosenthal said in that interview that struck me.“I don’t care what the world thinks of me. But do I care, very deeply, what the people I care about think.”
This to me is an expression of the sacrifices he has made, his loyalty to those who has helped him achieve his vision, and how he feels about those who told him his concept of jewelry design as art would never work.
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| Five-Row Diamond Necklace with Pendant Ring, 1999; diamonds, platinum; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
In the darkness of the room with the glow of lights from the displays, I had no idea how my photographs would come out. I'm happily surprised.
The retrospective of Rosenthal's 35-year career as the head of JAR will run till March 9, 2014.
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| Five Wild Rose Brooches, 1991; Oriental pearls, rubies, sapphires, amethysts, garnets, citrines, diamonds, platinum, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Bow Knot Brooch, 2012; diamonds, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Ribbons Bracelet, 1990; diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Top: Moon and Stars Pendant Earrings, 2011; sapphires, diamonds, silver, gold; private collection. Bottom: Pendant Earrings, 2011; sapphires, diamonds, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Wall of butterflies. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Pendant Earrings, 2012; zircons, diamonds, platinum; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Drop Pendant Earrings, 2012; diamonds, platinum, silver; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Sheep's Head Brooch, 1997; sapphires, aluminum, gold; Suzanne Syz. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Top: Owl Brooches, 2011; fire opals, aluminum, gold; private collection. Bottom: Swan's Head Earrings, 1987; diamonds, coral, sapphires, steel, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| From left: Pendant Earrings, 2010; spinel, Oriental pearl, diamonds, rubies, platinum; private collection. Elephant Brooch, 1987; agate, Oriental pearls, diamonds, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Lily of the Valley Brooch, 1991; Oriental pearl, diamonds, platinum, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Oak Leaf and Acorn Earrings, 1990; Wood, gold; Susan K Gutfreund. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Necklace, 2005; diamonds, ribbon, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Pendant Earrings, 2013; chalcedony, diamonds, platinum, gold; Private collection. This is one of JAR's latest creations. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Tulip Brooch, 2008; rubies, diamonds, sapphires, garnets, silver, gold, enamel; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |
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| Handkerchief Earrings, 2005; diamonds, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco |