Four High Jewelers Bring New Life To Paris Biennale

A rare cat's eye ruby center's this sculptured ruby flower by Cindy Chao. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

It was my first time at the Paris Biennale des Antiquaires so while most of the news outlets focused on the venerable jewelers who chose not to exhibit at the fair this year, I was focused on those who did present their finest high jewels beneath the vaulted glass dome of the Grand Palais.

Out of the four high jewelers who did exhibit at the recently concluded event, only de Grisogono had done so previously. For Boghossian and Nirav Modi, it was their first time at the event. For Cindy Chao, it was her first ever public exhibition.

Cindy Chao's exhibition booth was so crowded at times it had to be roped off. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Chao also was the most anticipated of all the jewelers as it was the first time many people were able to see her jewels up close and in person. The Taiwanese jeweler specializes in artistic and exacting gem-encrusted one-of-a-kind pieces that could upwards of three years to complete—most notably her iconic gem-encrusted butterflies. Several times during the press preview her exhibition space was roped off because there were too many people inside.

Cindy Chao’s 2012 Black Label Masterpiece Butterfly. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Chao brought 12 new Black Label Masterpiece works celebrating her 12th year in business along with some of her other pieces.

A statement necklace with diamonds and collared gems with hidden settings by Boghossian. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Exceptional gems combined with fine craftsmanship are certainly the hallmarks of those who dabble in high jewelry. However, Boghossian turned this up a notch with innovations like hidden settings for diamonds and gems and working with a variety of materials. The family is fairly new as a high jewelry brand but goes back more than a century in the gem business gradually moving from the Middle East to Europe.

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

One of the most stunning pieces at the fair was a necklace set with 440.08 carats of Type A Jadeite beads in 18k white gold (pictured above). Albert Boghossian, who founded the high jewelry business based in Geneva, says the pieces tell the story of the diverse family heritage.

Geneva-based de Grisogono focused on statement pieces with large amounts of emeralds and diamonds that were both encrusted and cut in a number of ways. They were exclusively with white precious metals.

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Among the brand’s highpoints were a pair of fan-shaped diamond and emerald earrings set in titanium (pictured above); and a suite of encrusted emerald and diamond jewels, including a bejeweled watch, which featured these gems in briolette and square cuts.

Indian jeweler Nirav Modi presented a fanciful jungle-like display in its exhibition space, including bird sounds. One of its pieces, the Embrace bangle, expanded and contracted within the display 9video above). This innovative piece was complemented with a number of more traditional gem-heavy suites centered by large statement necklaces.

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

One standout was the “Water Lily Story,” (pictured above) inspired by Claude Monet paintings, which uses oval, pear, marquise and round diamond mixed with various collared gemstones.

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Mouawad Opens Shiny New Boutique In Geneva

Mouawad celebrated the official opening of its newest boutique at Rue du Rhône 8 in Geneva. It is the luxury jewelry and watch company’s first boutique in Europe and the 15th globally. 

Located near Place Bel-Air, one of the most prestigious shopping street of Geneva, the store represents a modern look for the 126-year-old family business, according to Fred, Alain and Pascal Mouawad, the three brothers who serve as co-guardians of the family business.

“Not only does this boutique reflect Mouawad’s continued expansion and growth in the world, it also captures the forward-looking vision as to how the brand enchants its customers,” Alain said.

Furnishings, carpets and wall treatments in shades of grey with gold details reflect Mouawad’s corporate colors. The rounded lines throughout the space gently lead people through the displays of luxury jewelry and watches, which include a dedicated watch area and a private space for bridal jewelry. 

Strands of white-colored flower-shaped figures hang in rows from the ceiling serve as a central design element. They are styled after the company’s “Flower of Eternity” jewelry collection made of three heart-shaped petals that combine into a flower. 

Exclusively featured in the new boutique is one of Mouawad’s latest masterpieces, the Divine Muzo Pears, a diamond and emerald suite of jewels, consisting of five pear-shaped, vivid green emeralds mined in Colombia, paired with white diamonds.

Mouawad designs, manufactures and sells its own jewelry and timepiece collections ranging from boutique collections and high jewelry to bespoke pieces and objects of art. 

In addition to its jewelry and timepiece design and production, Mouawad manufactures rough diamonds through its joint venture company, Premier Diamond Alliance. 

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MB&F Goes For Speed With New HM8 Can-Am Watch

Swiss luxury watchmaker MB&F turned to the world of auto racing for its newest high design and technically advanced watch creation. The Horological Machine Number 8 (HM8) takes its inspiration from the Can-Am racing series, which would have celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2016. 

The Canadian-American Challenge Cup was a sports car racing series held from 1966 to 1987. Bruce McLaren developed his first car for the Can-Am series; Lola, Chaparral, BRM, Shadow and Porsche all had manufacturing teams. Class restrictions in the Can-Am were minimal and allowed for unlimited engine sizes, turbocharging, supercharging and basically unrestricted aerodynamics. 

The case design of the HM8 Can-Am is both curvaceous and angular with dual optical prisms vertically displaying bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes. The battle-axe winding rotor (a distinct feature of MB&F watches) is visible on top.

The most notable design feature is two titanium bars that run across the front of the watch that mimics a racing car’s roll bars. The back of the case reveals another automotive inspired design detail, dual “oil sumps.”

The HM8 Can-Am is powered by an in-house developed bi-directional jumping hour and trailing minute indication module on a Girard-Perregaux base movement (or engine as the company refers to it). The movement, with a 42 hour power reserve, is in full view from the top.

The bi-directional jumping hour and trailing minute displays on HM8 use overlapping discs (one for the hours, one for the minutes), completely covered in Super-LumiNova. The effect of large numerals is created by masking all of the “lumen,” with the exception of the numbers.

The visual aspect of being able to see the numbers is further enhanced by using separate sapphire crystal prisms for the hour and minute displays so light is reflected (and reversed) from the horizontal indications to the vertical rather than refracted (bent), the company says. A convex lens on the front provides magnification. 

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IDE President Says Buyers Are Regaining Trust In Diamond Market After Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

Yoram Dvash, IDE president

The sentiment among returning Israeli exhibitors at the close of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair was optimistic, according to Yoram Dvash, Israel Diamond Exchange president.

“In contrast to the last several years, this year’s show was marked by very good traffic,” he said. “Buyers came in large numbers and in addition to buyers from India, who come every year, there were many buyers from other East-Asian countries.”

Dvash said that although expectations had been modest due to the economic challenges facing Asian markets, the traffic on the first and second days was strong and centered on diamonds. “Sales were reasonable, if not in perfect congruence with the great number of buyers who attended, but all in all, we are feeling very optimistic.”

He added, “In Hong Kong we felt that buyers at the show were regaining trust in the market. They were very interested in the merchandise, and that’s an excellent sign for the future. The stability in polished prices in recent months has contributed to the trust by jewelers and manufacturers, and we are hopeful that buyers will stock plenty of merchandise ahead of the holiday season.”

During his stay in Hong Kong, Dvash met with global diamond leaders to discuss some of the most pressing challenges facing the industry. He conferred with WFDB President Ernie Blum about ways to improve credit conditions for the diamond industry, including finding additional financing sources and increasing bank credit to diamantaires. Dvash also met with Alrosa President Andrey Zharkov and Alrosa VP Andrei Polyakov to discuss the impact of synthetics on the natural diamond market.

The Israel Diamond Pavilion, organized by the Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies, is one of the largest national exhibitors at the Hong Kong show, with 84 companies in more than 1150 square meters. There were also 15 additional Israeli companies exhibiting at different locations throughout the show. 

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WFDB Optimistic About Diamond Sales After September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

Ernie Blom, WFDB president

World Federation of Diamond Bourses' President Ernie Blom said he believes the diamond and jewelry industry has reason to be optimistic as they head into the critical fourth quarter holiday season after solid results at the just-ended September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Although sales were generally far from spectacular, the show was ahead of expectations, he said. 

“From what I saw and heard from many different sources, the show exceeded expectations,” Blom said. “Given the slowdown in China and Hong Kong, we were not expecting an exceptional performance, but foot traffic was heavier than forecasted and there was certainly plenty of interest from buyers, even if they were looking for highly specific items and not buying in large volumes.”  

He added, “Prices were firm given the reduction in manufacturing towards the end of last year. Of course there was price resistance, that's part of the negotiating procedure, but it was important that we saw a healthy show, and one that was definitely better than the 2015 fair. With the American market stable and even growing slightly, I believe we can be hopeful as we enter the holiday sales season.”
  
The Hong Kong fair was also notable for the inaugural meeting of the WFDB's Young Diamantaires group on September 15. Only launched four months ago, the initiative has been the subject of widespread interest among younger diamond industry members from across the globe, and the meeting was well attended.   

The WFDB has 30 affiliated bourse members and exists to protect the interests of affiliated bourses and their individual members, and also to further the amicable settlement or arbitration of disputes between individual members of the affiliated bourses and/or between affiliated bourses. The WFDB participates in the promotion of world trade and encourages the establishment of new diamond bourses. In 2012, it established The World Diamond Mark, a not-for-profit organization, to promote consumer desirability and confidence in diamonds. 

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JNA Awards Honors Excellence In The Asian Jewelry Industry

JNA Awards winners and sponsors

A total of 14 companies and individuals were honored during the JNA Awards ceremony, held Wednesday at the InterContinental Hong Kong. They were among the 28 companies recognized at the event.

Organized by JNA (Jewellery News Asia), the awards recognize and celebrate companies and individuals whose passion for excellence, innovation and outstanding business performance has helped shape the growth and development of Asia's jewelry industry.

Shouzui Yasui, Chief Executive Officer of Yasui & Co, was the recipient of the Lifetime Achievement Award—one of the highest honors in the global jewelry and gemstone industry and the most esteemed tribute conferred by the JNA Awards. Yasui's casting solutions, starting from the wax injector, were seen as pivotal in the mass production of jewelry, which consequently made jewelry accessible and affordable to many.

The 14 award recipients across 10 categories are as follows:

1. Brand of the Year -- Retail
Hiersun Industrial Co Ltd - I Do - China

2. Industry Innovation/Sustainability Initiative of the Year
Shenzhen Batar Investment Holding Group Co Ltd -- China
Shenzhen Foreway Jewellery Group Co Ltd -- China
Shenzhen Ganlu Jewellery Co Ltd -- China
Shenzhen Xingguangda Jewelry Industrial Co Ltd -- China

3. Manufacturer of the Year-- Cutting & Polishing
Kiran Gems Pvt Ltd -- India
RMC Gems India Ltd -- India

4. Manufacturer of the Year -- Jewellery
PANDORA Production Co Ltd -- Thailand

5. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year -- ASEAN 
Soo Kee Group -- Singapore

6. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year -- India
Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd -- India

7. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – Greater China
KGK Jewellery Manufacturing Ltd -- Hong Kong SAR

8. Retailer of the Year (450 outlets and below)
Beijing Cai Shi Kou Department Store Co Ltd -- China

9. E-tailer of the Year
China Stone Co Ltd -- Thailand

10. Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 and below)
Ms Wang Zhuo, Shenzhen Sunfeel Jewelry Co Ltd -- China

Warren Mok, an internationally acclaimed tenor, was the featured performer for the event, which was held during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair.

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Reena Ahluwalia To Unveil The Aaron Shum Coronet Portrait Painting At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

The Coronet portrait painting

Hong Kong based diamond jewelry company, Aaron Shum, is collaborating with award-winning Canadian jewelry designer and diamond painter, Reena Ahluwalia, in launching the Coronet portrait painting.

The parties will unveil the painting Thursday at the Aaron Shum Jewelry booth (HKCEC Hall#1C402, C404, C501, C503) during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. 

“Her unprecedented talent in jewelry design and diamond painting is surely going to bring many new exciting elements to the industry,” said Aaron Shum, the founder of the eponymous diamond jewelry company.

The Coronet portrait is a highly detailed acrylic-painting on a 48” x 48” canvas completed in 45 days. The painting embraces the grand solitaire effect accomplished by Coronet and depicts the refractive trait of the patented setting. 

“Having long admired Aaron Shum as an innovator and creator of the Coronet, I am thrilled to collaborate with Aaron Shum Jewelry on two of my passions – jewelry design innovation and diamond storytelling through my paintings,” Ahluwalia said. 

Reena Ahluwalia

In addition to the Coronet portrait painting, the booth will feature seven art pieces from Ahluwalia’s Diamond Portrait Series and the Diamond Portal Series in Hong Kong for the very first time, including three of her latest creations: "Heart of Gold," "Pure Heart" and "Passionate Heart." The parties also will announce a jewelry design collaboration which will be launched in Vicenza Oro 2017.

Coronet is the signature brand of Aaron Shum Jewelry. With its worldwide patented design, each piece of Coronet made from seven diamonds set with no prongs holding the center diamond, along with precision of cut, symmetry and polish, which attribute to the best fit proportion to conceiving a luminous solitaire diamond effect yet at exceptionally competitive value. 

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Georg Jensen Uses Women Role Models In New Ad Campaign

Iranian professional motocross rider Behnaz Shafiei

Danish design house Georg Jensen turned to five female role models to head its new campaign with the tagline, “You can never be too much you.”

The global video and print campaign encourages women to be themselves and to chart their own path to success. This values-driven approach is the vision of Eva-Lotta Sjostedt, who was appointed the first female CEO of Georg Jensen earlier this year and today leads the senior management team, where half its members are female, including Meeling Wong, U.S. President. 

World champion boxer Cecilia Brækhus

“At Georg Jensen we’ve always encouraged women to be themselves and make their own success. Our campaign is the extension of that very philosophy and the women featured are the embodiment of that,” Sjöstedt said.

Award-winning chef Dominique Crenn

The role models featured in the campaign are: award-winning film director Susanne Bier (Denmark), WBA, WBC and WBO world champion welterweight boxer Cecilia Brækhus (Norway), award-winning comedian Sarah Kendall (Australia), professional motocross rider Behnaz Shafiei (Iran) and Michelin star chef Dominique Crenn (USA). 

Award-winning comedian Sarah Kendall

What these women have in common is they defied conventions and rose to the tops of their professions, the global design firm said in a statement.

Award-winning film director Susanne Bier

The campaign is the product of creative agency Forsman & Bodenfors and award-winning director Lærke Herthoni. In addition, the company says it reflects a company influenced by men and women—from the master silversmith Georg Jensen’s wife Laura and daughter Lise who were part of the early business to female designers such as Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe, Nina Koppel and Zaha Hadid who have collaborated with the design house over the years.

“We wanted this campaign to transcend ideals about beauty,” Sjöstedt said. “The women featured are powerful role models.” 

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The Hong Kong Jewelry Fair Begins

The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair opened Tuesday at AsiaWorld-Expo. AWE houses the raw materials section of the September Fair. The fine jewelry section, meanwhile, will open on September 15 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). 

Celebrating its 34th edition, the September Fair hosts more than 3,600 exhibitors from 55 countries and regions. Fair organizer UBM Asia expects about 58,000 buyers from around the world to create active traffic in the two venues. 

Among the highlights of the Hong Kong fair include:

* Exhibition space in the two venues totals more than 135,000 square meters.

* Debut of the Myanmar and Portugal Pavilions. The new additions bring to 24 the number of group pavilions in the two venues. 

* The single largest showcase of Hong Kong jewelry, with more than 1,250 Hong Kong companies participating in the two venues, accounting for around 35 percent of exhibitors.

* Once again the fair is home to the world’s largest diamond pavilion, with around 500 diamond companies, and Asia’s biggest gemstone marketplace, with more than 750 gemstone companies.

* New exhibitors from Nigeria, Peru, Portugal, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Slovak Republic (Slovakia), French Polynesia and the Republic of Vanuatu are participating.
* ALROSA, Russia’s diamond company and the world’s biggest diamond miner by volume, is hosting its diamond auction at the Fair from September 13 to 17 at AWE. Admission is by invitation only.

* Two international pearl auctions, the 68th Robert Wan Tahiti Perles Auction and the 59th Paspaley Pearl Auction, will also be held by invitation during the fair.

* The “Declaration Program on Exhibits of Natural Diamond”, is being introduced at this edition. Participants in the program will have on display at their booths a “Declaration Program on Exhibits of Natural Diamond” poster, which will demonstrate clearly to buyers that diamonds from these exhibitors are natural. This program provides an easier and quicker way for buyers to make an informed decision when purchasing diamonds. Participants in the program are members of global diamond trade organizations, including the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, the Antwerp World Diamond Center, Belgium and the Israel Diamond Institute. The diamond exhibitors will be housed in Halls 5, 7, 9 and 11 at AWE. 

* Since June 2012, the Trade Buyer ID has enjoyed warm reception from our esteemed buyers from around the world. Beginning at this edition of the September Fair, holders of the Trade Buyer ID can enjoy up to 25 percent discount on dining privileges at participating restaurants. Buyers simply need to present the Trade Buyer ID to enjoy this privilege. 

Despite challenging economic conditions in some parts of the world, consumer confidence in China and the rest of Asia remains steady, according to the Nielsen Global Survey of Consumer Confidence and Spending Intentions, Markets. The region’s confidence score reached or exceeded 100 points in the second quarter of 2016, the survey said. Countries surveyed in Asia included the Philippines, India, Indonesia, Vietnam, China, Pakistan and Thailand.

The continued healthy growth of the Asian market, particularly China, is not lost on players in the jewelry industry. According to Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at UBM Asia, more internationally renowned organizations and laboratories are establishing their presence in the China market. 

“They partner with local authorities to hold seminars, set up scholarships and share knowledge about the latest technologies in the industry. They believe there is room for growth in the China market so they are establishing their brands here through these activities,” Lau said. 

Over the last decade, the September fair has served as a bridge to tap into China’s lucrative market. As the preeminent jewelry fair for the industry, the fair provides the greatest product range not only for Chinese buyers but also for buyers from around the world. 

“The Fair is not only an effective marketplace and platform to tap into the Asian markets, but also functions as a ‘filter’ as only serious buyers and exhibitors will attend world-class fairs like the September Fair,” Lau said. “A fair of this caliber offers tremendous value to both exhibitors and buyers. It also provides easy access to some of the industry’s most reputable vendors, thus helping the industry to continue to grow.” 

To bring in more buyers from robust markets, UBM Asia has enhanced visitor promotion in certain markets. As a result, 24 buyer delegations from the mainland China are visiting this edition. Overseas delegates from Finland, Israel, Japan, Korea, Myanmar, Russian Federation and Vietnam are also coming.

The Hong Kong Premier Pavilion features around 30 of the city’s outstanding jewelry companies and their brands. Visitors are sure to be captivated by the exquisitely crafted jewelry collections that reflect the very best of Hong Kong’s jewelry manufacturing traditions. The pavilion is located in Halls 1D & E of HKCEC.

The International Premier Pavilion is a destination for the trendy. Located in Halls 3B & C of HKCEC, the pavilion houses a select group of over 50 exhibitors from 17 countries and regions, namely Belgium, mainland China, France, Germany, Greece, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Philippines, Russian Federation, Spain, Switzerland, Thailand, United Arab Emirates, and the United States.

The Fine Design Pavilion hosts 76 internationally renowned jewelrs in the Grand Hall of HKCEC. They will showcase exquisite jewelry set with luxurious and rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls, as well as top-quality bejeweled watches, valuable masterpieces, and exclusive jewels from around the world.

The Fine Gem Pavilion is dedicated to the world’s finest loose diamonds, pearls and gemstones. Located in Hall 9 of AWE, 54 esteemed exhibitors will showcase a variety of high-quality loose gems.

The Fair press conference will be held on September 15 at 11 a.m. in meeting rooms S226 – S227 of HKCEC. Heads of jewelry associations will share their views on the developments in the jewelry trade. The Senior Vice President of UBM Asia, Wolfram Diener, will announce the latest developments in UBM Asia’s jewelry fairs portfolio.

A Welcome Reception organized by UBM Asia will be held on September 15 at 6:30pm at the Grand Foyer of HKCEC. 

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The 14th Hong Kong Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Opens

The 14th edition of Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – September opened its doors Tuesday and will run till September 16 at AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong. 

The show houses around 400 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions in 11,360 square meters of exhibition space. More than 80 percent of the exhibitors are from overseas; among them are companies from mainland China, Italy, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, the Philippines, Poland, Singapore, Thailand, UK, USA, Hong Kong and Taiwan regions. More than 6,600 buyers are expected to visit over the four-day period.

The event features several attractions, including five group pavilions, representing mainland China, India, Korea, the Philippines and Taiwan region. The popular Stainless Steel Jewellery Pavilion has around 40 suppliers.

Teaming up with the editors of AFJA Review, "Editor’s Choice" is a new addition to the fair. Exhibitors’ products, selected by the editors, are displayed under four categories—stainless steel, natural materials, crystals and semiprecious stones, and pearls and imitation pearls. This special display presents visitors inspired choices and up-and-coming trends. 

“The launch of Editor’s Choice is a result of feedback from buyers and part of our effort to enhance attractions at 9FJ,” said Ms Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at UBM Asia Ltd. “September is a prime time for stocking for the holidays and sourcing for Spring/Summer 2017 collections,” Lau continued. “And with 9FJ being held alongside the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, buyers can tap opportunities in two shows, in one trip.” 

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Tiffany Names Mark Erceg As CFO

Tiffany & Co. appointed Mark Erceg as its executive vice president and chief financial officer, responsible for the company's worldwide financial, indirect procurement and information technology functions.

Erceg, 47, will be based in New York and will report to Frederic Cumenal, Tiffany CEO. His appointment will become effective on October 18. He replaces Tiffany's former chief financial officer who left the Company in May to pursue another position with a different company.

Erceg was previously employed at Canadian Pacific Railway Ltd., where he has served as executive VP and CFO since May 2015. From 2010 - 2015, he was the CFO for Masonite International Corp. He began his career at Procter & Gamble in 1992 where, over 18 year period, he served in positions of increasing responsibility in finance, market strategy, customer response, general management and global investor relations.

"Mark brings an operational process orientation and a broad financial, international and consumer brands background to Tiffany," Cumenal said in a statement issued Tuesday. "As the new leader of our multi-talented finance, procurement and information technology organizations, his varied experience and global perspective will be important as we continue to work toward strengthening Tiffany's luxury brand position around the world and enhancing our profitability and productivity." 

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Contest: Select New Name For Jewelry News Network And Win ‘Treasures in Gold’

We are renaming Jewelry News Network and we want you to have the chance to create the new name. 

If your submission is used you will receive the book, “Treasures in Gold: Masterpieces of Jewelry from Antiquity to Modern Times,” edited by Gianni Guadalupi. It is at least a $30 value.

This book spotlights the art of the goldsmith through history starting with the opulent gilded tombs and grave goods of the ancient Egyptian pharaohs. Organized chronologically, the book goes on to trace precious works from subsequent epochs, unveiling the masterpieces that epitomize the craftsmanship of each, as well as presenting a fascinating documentation of the beliefs, values, and societal structure of each civilization. Concluding with a chapter on Cartier, the master jeweler. 

Jewelry News Network is a blog and social media destination dedicated to covering the art, design and craftsmanship of jewelry and watches and the business behind the beauty. It provides a look behind-the-scenes of the international watch and jewelry industry and shares many of its secrets. 

When submitting the new name for our website be sure to take this into account. Send your submission to renamejnn@gmail.com. We look forward to seeing your entries. 

Good Luck, 

Anthony DeMarco
Jewelry News Network Founder

Patek Ref. 5013P Leads Sotheby’s Hong Kong Upcoming Watch Auction

A Patek Philippe Ref. 5013P platinum tonneau-shaped automatic minute repeater will lead Sotheby’s Hong Kong Important Watches Autumn Sale on October 5. The circa 2004 watch with a perpetual calendar, retrograde date, moon phase and leap year indication has an estimate of $359,000 – $487,000.

Launched in 1992, the Reference 5013 is one of the most complex timepieces ever made by Patek Philippe, with a total of 515 parts, Sotheby’s said. It is also the first minute-repeater to feature an automatic movement combined with a perpetual calendar and retrograde date indication. The retrograde date hand moves along a 270 degree arc and flies back to the first of the month at midnight of the last day of each month.

The sale at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre will present rare and complicated timepieces from celebrated makers, as well as other cutting-edge modern wristwatches by both established and independent brands. The sale will showcase more than 290 lots and has an estimate of $4.7 million – $6.85 million.

Other auction highlights include the following:

* A Patek Philippe, Ref. 5101G-001, circa 2011. The white gold rectangular tourbillon watch with a 10-day power reserve has a triple-stepped case inspired by Patek Philippe’s Art Deco designs. The tourbillon rests on the bridge side as the dominant element of the movement revealed through the sapphire crystal case back. The rotating cage is composed of 72 individual parts, yet weighs only 0.3 grams. It takes a Patek Philippe watchmaker up to three months to produce a Ref. 5101. It is one of only two examples of a Ref. 5101 in white gold to be offered at auction. Its estimate is $103,000 – $154,000.

* A Richard Mille RM025 carbon composite and titanium skeletonized tourbillon chronograph diver’s watch with power reserve and torque indication. The circa 2014 timepiece is water resistant to 300 meters. The RM025 caliber unites the complication of a tourbillon with the chronograph movement. The torque indicator, which shows the tension of the mainspring, ensuring the chronometer function of the movement, is positioned to the right of the barrel, between 12 and 1 o’clock. Its estimate is $154,000 – $206,000.

* An A. Lange & Söhne, platinum rectangular tourbillon watch with patented stop-seconds mechanism, date and power reserve indication, cabaret tourbillon, circa 2011. Its estimate is $103,000 – $154,000.

* A single-owner collection of sport watches “characterized by their youthfulness and masculine charm, encompassing limited editions by prestigious makers such as Audemars Piguet, Panerai and Jaeger-LeCoultre,” Sotheby’s said.

* An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore chronograph with pink gold and forged carbon tourbillon, case H03575, circa 2010. This piece features an openworked dial revealing twin barrels, offering a 10-day power reserve with the column wheel chronograph mechanism and tourbillon fully visible. Its estimate is $103,000 – $154,000. 

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