Valentine’s Day: Unique Diamond Bracelet By David Morris

Rare 60-carat center stone unearthed at legendary Cullinan Mine

It might be the ultimate Valentine’s Day jewelry gift this year. London jeweler David Morris is offering a diamond bracelet with a rare 59.89-carat cushion-cut diamond. The D-colored diamond was created from a 120-carat Type 2a rough diamond unearthed at the legendary Cullinan mine in South Africa, where some of the largest and most important diamonds in the world were found. 

The center diamond was paired with 10.62 carats of pink and white fancy-cut diamonds in an en tremblant (to tremble) petal design set in 18k rose and white gold. The design was created by Jeremy Morris, the managing director and principal designer of the brand. 

The 120-carat rough diamond took eight months to cut and the design of the bangle took another 100 hours of work to make the design come to life. The creation combines old-world hand-crafted techniques with Computer-Aided Design (CAD) technology.

Jeremy Morris said he was inspired by the main diamond’s attributes, which he described as the “cool, limpid waters of a pond.” The trembling movement of the pink diamond petals reflects the “swaying of the lilies floating upon it.” 

The piece is available at the David Morris, The London Jeweller, at its Bond Street flagship. Or it will be transported by guard to any location in the world. As an added bonus, Jeremy Morris said he will grant naming rights for the diamond.

Price upon request. 

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JNA Awards Reveals 2016 Judging Criteria, Opens Online Registration

The judging criteria for the fifth edition of the annual JNA Awards is finalized and online registration is open to give companies and individuals from the jewelry and gemstone industry more time to review the entry rules and criteria before the submission period begins in early March.

The JNA Awards, organized by the publication Jewellery News Asia, is regarded as one of the jewelry and gemstone industry’s highest honors, recognizing enterprises and individuals that have demonstrated excellence, leadership, innovation and have made positive contributions to their businesses and communities, with a focus on achievements in Asia.

“As organizer of the JNA Awards, we find it very promising to see steady growth in quality entries over the past four years,” said Letitia Chow, founder of JNA, director of Business Development - Jewellery Group at UBM Asia, and chair of the JNA Awards judging panel. “We are also opening registration early to enable interested parties to study the categories and determine which are most appropriate to them prior to the submission period.”

Chow added that the geographical region of the awards has been expanded to include Greater China and Korea and the manufacturing categories have been consolidated. 

“It is very encouraging to see the JNA Awards continuously making improvements on the criteria and entry procedure to make the judging process more efficient and more reflective of current industry aspirations,” said Albert Cheng, World Gold Council advisor and JNA Awards judge.

“A constant refinement of the judging criteria is crucial in maintaining the relevancy and rigor of the awards; helping the judges to better assess, compare and select the best entries,” added James Courage, JNA Awards judging panel member since its inception in 2012.

The JNA Awards 2016 is supported by Headline Partners Rio Tinto Diamonds and Chow Tai Fook, together with Diarough Group, the Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies, Shanghai Diamond Exchange, and Guangdong Land Holdings Limited serving as Honoured Partners.

The period for the submission of entries will run from March to April 2016. Click here to register online and review all the category criteria and rules of entry. 

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Wallace Chan’s New Book Takes Readers Inside His Jewels

"Wallace Chan Dream Light Water" is now available in the US. It contains 86 of his sculptural jewels in extreme close-ups and in their actual size

It’s my belief that 100 years from now Wallace Chan won’t be known as a jeweler or jewelry artist, but simply as an artist. He will be considered among the best of his time, if not longer. That his groundbreaking gem carving and faceting techniques and his jewelry making skills will be taught at art schools and gemology schools around the world.

The China native and now Hong Kong-based jewelry artist who grew up in extreme poverty is already successful beyond his wildest imagination among the most elite in the world in money and taste. His notoriety will likely grow with the January 28 release of the book “Wallace Chan Dream Light Water,” designed to open up the process of his techniques to the public.

Wallace Chan with Sarah Coffin, a curator at Cooper Hewitt Museum (left) and Cherry Rao

On the day of the book’s release Chan gave a lecture at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. The book contains photographs of 86 of his sculptural jewels in extreme close-ups and in their actual size. Even at $280 each, the museum’s allotment of the 380-page tome sold out before Chan took the stage.

Chan discussed his quest for knowledge even though he was too poor to receive a formal education.

“I started from reading books I could not understand to wanting books I could not afford and today I have made a book of my own,” Chan told an audience of jewelry and art professionals and enthusiasts at Cooper Hewitt. “I have met a lot of challenges along the way.”

From concept to publishing, the book took seven years to make, Chan told the audience, or as he told me previously, “nothing comes easy” for him.

Vividity brooch centered with a rare elbaite tourmaline

Chan also brought one of his more famous creations with him as an exhibit for the event: “Vividity,” a colorful brooch centered with a rare elbaite tourmaline.

Chan told me in October when he first came to New York to promote the book that he chose to photograph the jewels in extreme detail in order to reveal the techniques he uses so others can learn from them—such as his use of gems as prongs instead of metal, how he manipulates precious metals, and his approach to faceting jade.

“Books are just like jewelry,” Chan told the audience through his editor and translator, Cherry Rao. “They are embodiments of human cultures and emotions. With this book I hope to show you a world that you cannot see—a micro world of jewelry where you can find the hidden truth, goodness and beauty in the gemstone and the craftsmanship.

A close-up view of the Now and Always necklace featuring the "Wallace Cut"

The book cover is a photograph of his most famous gem carving technique: The Wallace Cut, where he creates a reverse image in the back of a gem using cameo and intaglio carving techniques that result in a multiple-dimensional trompe l’oeil effect when seen from the front of the gem.

“On the front you can see five faces but actually I only carved one face at the back of the stone and the four more faces you see are actually the result of reflections that was created by precise calculations and faceting,” Chan said.

A close-up view of the Fluttery Ragtime Brooch

“It was reverse thinking combined with reverse carving motions. What you see on the right I actually carved on the left and what you see that is deep inside the stone was actually carved shallowly and by design.”

A full view of the Fluttery Ragtime Brooch

It took Chan two and a half years to master this approach to jewelry carving, which he first revealed in 1987, and another six months to build the tools, which include dentist instruments adapted for gem carving. He then had to carve while the gem was submerged in water because the carving tools generated too much heat that could damage or crack the gem. Not to mention burn his hands.

An extreme close up view of Parure Plum Flowers in Snow

“As I was carving in water it meant I could not see the details so I was doing the carving stroke by stroke,” he told the audience. “I had to carve one line and then I had to take it out of the water and check it to see if it is okay. I put it back down into the water to do another stroke. It was a long process but I entered a stage where my eyes, my heart my hands were moving as one. By that time I could carve in the water for two or three minutes without looking or checking.

“It was the craziest period in my life. At that time I was completely lost in the magic of light and shadow.”

A full view of the Fluttery Ragtime Brooch

Chan’s reputation transcends jewels and goes into art. He is a sculptor by training and still creates many traditional works of sculpture as well as large glass etchings. Sarah Coffin, a curator at Cooper Hewitt who led the lecture, asked Chan about his artistic approach to his jewelry designs.

“Painters use paint, musicians use notes and I use gemstones to create,” Chan said. “Jewelry is the same as paintings or music. It is a form of expression in art. For more than four decades gemstones have been the most important language I use to communicate with nature and the universe. The carvings, sculptured gemstone cuttings or jewelry creations use gemstones as my medium … and through creation I become one with nature.”

Heart in Bloom brooch

The book, Wallace Chan Dream Light Water,” published by Rizzoli, is co-written by Juliet de La Rochefoucauld, a gemologist, jewelry historian, author and lecturer. The 380-page 11-in. by 15-in. book contains 260 color photographs and illustrations. It retails for $280. Demand has already proven to be strong as the allotment at the Cooper-Hewitt museum sold out during Chan’s lecture Thursday.

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5,000 Attend China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair – Shanghai

The 11th edition of the China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair – Shanghai concluded with 5,025 buyers from 30 countries and regions, according UBM Asia, which owns and operates the trade fair.

Held December 11 - 14 at the Shanghai Exhibition Center, the fair featured 354 exhibitors from 25 countries and regions in over 14,000 square meters of exhibition space.

Out of the total attendance, 190 visitors were from overseas and Hong Kong, UBM said.

Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia, said that Japanese jewelry is one of the best-selling items in China. “In response to market demand, we launched at this edition the Japan Pavilion hosted by the Yamanashi Jewelry Association,” she said. 

Yamanashi is a jewelry manufacturing base in Japan, known for its craftsmanship and designs

Other show features include “The Premier Pavilion” for high-end fine jewelry and country pavilions from Korea, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Thailand and Turkey offered visitors a wide variety of jewelry. 

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Slowing Watch Sales Bring More Variety At SIHH 2016

The prototype Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Nuit Lumineuse watch with diamonds that light like stars using a mechanical power source

SIHH, the second largest gather of the Swiss watch industry, was held January 18 - 22 as reports emerged confirming that watch sales have slowed. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said Tuesday that exports for 2015 declined 3.3 percent year-over-year to 21.5 billion Swiss francs ($21.1 billion). This coincided with Richemont’s third quarter earnings statement two weeks earlier, which reported that sales fell by 4 percent year-over-year at constant exchange rate to 2.92 billion Swiss francs ($2.86 billion).

The blame for the decline range from the combined austerity measures and stock market turbulence in China, the effects of a strong Swiss currency (particularly in Europe) and the introduction of the Apple Watch, which may have resulted in the steep decline of watch exports in the 200-franc to 500-franc price range. Even the Paris terrorist attacks had a major impact on watch in the “City of Light,” according to reports. And 2016 is looking like another year of softer sales.

One thing that hasn’t changed is silly stories in the consumer press that tout complicated timepieces as being “insane” and a layered, carbon-fiber writing instrument that uses a mechanical movement to expose and retract the nib as a “crazy ass pen.”

Back to the matter at hand, despite slowing sales the mood at SIHH was largely positive. The 24 watch brands presented more than enough new items in a number of styles and price points to leave retailers and trade journalists satisfied. One UK retailer told me that prices were more “realistic” this year.

The Parmigiani Senfine concept watch movement with 45-day power reserve

Among the biggest developments, two were for products that were not yet available to the public. The Parmigiani Senfine concept movement, which boasts a remarkable 45-day power reserve, and the Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Nuit Lumineuse watch, which has diamonds that light like stars using a mechanical power source (top photo).

Richard Mille RM 50-02 ACJ Tourbillon Spilt Seconds Chronograph

The other big release was the RM 50-02 Tourbillon Spilt Seconds Chronograph ACJ Chronograph, made in a partnership with the exclusive Airbus Corporate Jets division of the Airbus Group. It incorporates design details and materials of the ACJ aircraft. It’s limited to 30 pieces and has a price tag of more than $1 million.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon

A. Lange & Söhne, which has mastered the ability to create highly technical movements and house them inside beautifully balanced dials, introduced the latest edition of its highly praised Datograph chronograph timepieces, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. This newest version from the proudly German company combines the Datograph chronograph with a flyback function and Up/Down power reserve indicator and the typical Lange outsize date; with a perpetual calendar with a moon-phase display; and a tourbillon exposed on the sapphire-crystal caseback and the open tourbillon bridge. 

This year, for the first time, the established 15 brands (11 owned by the Swiss holding company, Richemont) at SIHH were joined by nine watch artisan-creators and independent workshops. They all showcased their unique approach to watchmaking. One brand, Ralph Lauren, pulled out of the show this year.

MB&F Sherman table clock in gold

MB&F, perhaps the most successful of the new group, not only introduced its latest “horological machine” but also unveiled its latest in artistic and creative table clocks. Called “Sherman,” it is once again made in partnership with Swiss clock manufacturer, L’Epée 1839. It is in the shape of a boyish robot, with movable arms and hands, and tank-like caterpillar tracks for feet. It was inspired by the US Sherman tank and MB&F’s founder, Maximilian Büsser’s on-going quest to revisit his childhood. The balance and escapement of L’Epée’s eight-day, in-line movement is located under the transparent dome of Sherman's head.

The Roger Dubuis Blossom Velvet ladies timepiece

Finally, Roger Dubuis declared 2016 to be the “Year of the Velvet Diva” by focusing on a collection of ladies watches called, Velvet. The five-watch collection combines high jewels powered by robust automatic movements.

For more highlights from what is rightfully touted as the watch industry’s most luxurious and exclusive watch show, stay turned to this blog.

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Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe Offers Romance and Creativity

Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe, being held March 19 – 22 at Messe Freiburg, Germany, will include new themes and seminars designed to encourage creative collaboration and business networking. 

One feature is simply called, “LOVE,” which will showcase fine jewelry relating to romance that goes beyond bridal jewels. Another is “DESIGN,” which is an international networking platform for European design students lead by the Hochschule Trier, Campus of Idar-Oberstein, and Hochschule Pforzheim. 

The event offers seminars, hosted by the trade fair organizer, UBM Asia, in cooperation with two jewelry associations. They are as follows:

“Gemstones Seminar: A visit to the world’s largest ruby, emerald and amethyst mines.” Claudio C. Milisenda of DSEF German Gem Lab will discuss the gemstone mines of Gemfields, a mining company based in London. The company is known to own the world’s largest ruby, emerald and amethyst mines in Mozambique and Zambia. This seminar is hosted by the Deutsche Gemmologische Gesellschaft e.V. on 19 March.

“The romantic wedding ring seminars.” Two seminar sessions hosted by USE Uhren Schmuck Edelsteine Bildungszentrum Pforzheim on wedding ring consultation will be held March 20. The seminar speaker, Kaju, is the creative head and founder of the platinum atelier and goldsmith Aurom from Worms, Germany. He specializes with bridal jewelry as well as customer psychology and behavior.

Visitor pre-registration for the fair is available at this link. Pre-registration enables visitors to avoid long lines at the registration counters and save the admission fee of €30. The organizers are offering a free shuttle bus service from various points to Messe Freiburg throughout the fair’s four-day run. The timetable will be announced later. For updates, visit this link. 

In addition, Deutschen Bahn AG is offering a special concession on train tickets (from €99 and up) for visitors travelling from any German city to JGF Europe in Freiburg. Follow this link for booking details.

The Fair's Official Airline, Lufthansa Group Partner Airlines, will offer special air fares and conditions to those flying to Germany from around the globe. To make a reservation, visit this link and enter the access code CNZZQGC in the "Access to Your Special Lufthansa Offer" area. 

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Montblanc, Marc Newson Create New Writing Instruments

Montblanc M collection designed by Marc Newson

Montblanc has teamed with famed contemporary designer Marc Newson for a new collection of writing instruments designed to appeal to a younger audience.

Together they created the Montblanc M collection of writing instruments that combine the iconic elements of the famed designer with the heritage of the iconic luxury brand. It is the first time Montblanc has participated in a design partnership in its 110-year history. 

Newson is one of the most important and successful contemporary designers in the world. He has designed products ranging from clothing to airplanes. He is best known for designing the Lockheed Lounge chair, one of which sold at auction for $3.5 million, the most expensive object ever sold by a living designer. Most recently he was hired by Apple as part of its design team and has had input in the design of the Apple watch.

The Montblanc M collection has been available since September but they received their first proper public unveiling at the recently concluded Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva. Newson said the writing instruments were designed with an aesthetic and a price that should appeal to a younger audience. 

“The idea was to try and design something which perhaps is a little more accessible for a slightly different demographic … a slightly younger person,” Newson said prior to Montblanc’s 110th anniversary celebration January 18 in Geneva. “A product that is not in the same price range and that we could potentially target for a different segment. It could in some ways be perceived as an entry into the world of Montblanc.”

Montblanc M fountain pen retails for $565, compared with the Montblanc Meisterstück 149 fountain pen at $935. A rollerball and ballpoint models are available at $400 each. There’s also a “ScreenWriter” for use on touch screens and a thin “Montblanc Artfineliner” for technical drawing.

“The purpose of the item was not to design a cheap product or a disposable product,” Newson said. “It was designed as a very high quality writing instrument for a younger demographic; who I might add probably doesn’t have the same historical relationship with writing instruments as someone of my generation.”

The M pens have a sleeker design than the typical Montblanc writing instrument. The rounded shape gradually moves to a flat surface at its end—a new design direction for the luxury brand. These elements are among Newson’s trademark biomorphic style, defined by its fluid and pure organic forms. 

Meanwhile, the pens have the iconic elements associated with Montblanc, such as Montblanc emblem made of white resin on the tip and on the flattened end. The platinum-plated clip is mounted into the cap so it doesn’t interrupt the design flow. The ruthenium-plated metal (a platinum alloy) forepart that balances the weight of the writing instrument is engraved with “MONTBLANC.” The 14k gold nib for the first time is plated in two tones, using rhodium and ruthenium. The nib is engraved with the letters “MN” for the designer.

“If you look at the type of person we were trying to pitch, I think the product had to be recognizably Montblanc and it had to be slightly more modern slightly more contemporary in its lines at the same time,” Newson said. “If you saw it in the window of a shop you have to be able to recognize that it’s a Montblanc. There were these two dynamics that we had to play with.”

A key functional aspect of this writing instrument is the magnetic closing of the cap and barrel, with what is described as “an additional snap mechanism” designed to the make the closure smoother and ensure the cap stays firm.

Newson said Montblanc CEO Jérôme Lambert approached him with the problem of designing a new writing instrument for a new audience. The two have worked together previously when Lambert had the same position with luxury watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre. Newson designed the Atmos 561 and 566 clocks. 

Newson described the task as a problem solving exercise. 

“He asked me if I would be interested in designing something quite specific for Montblanc,” Newson said. “Not a project but a specific target in mind and he thought I could add some value. A series of writing instruments with the same sort of design.”

The result is a collection that is both contemporary in form and speaks to the legacy of the brand. 

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