Hong Kong Jewelry Fair Attracts 55,000 Buyers

The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair trade fair capped its 34th edition with 55,768 unique buyers from 147 countries and regions.

The attendance, which still ranks the annual event as the top fine jewelry trade fair in the world, is a 3.2 percent decline from the prior year. It is the second consecutive year that the fair saw a drop in attendance. In 2015, the fair attracted 57,616 unique visitors, which was a 2.5 percent drop from the prior year. 

There was also a decline in the number of exhibitors at the fair. The 3,615 exhibitors from 55 countries and regions was a 3.6 percent decline over the prior year.

Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia, noted that the buyers remained optimistic and centered on large carat diamonds, precious stones, South Sea pearls, fine finished jewelry, tools, packaging and equipment. 

“We observed that the number of quality buyers remained steady at this edition; their presence is an encouraging sign that points to the jewelry industry’s continued development and significant growth,” Lau said. 

Certain countries showed growth in visitor numbers, among them: 

* India, up by 423 visitors, around 14-percent increase from last year; 

* Myanmar, up by 196 visitors or roughly 75 percent up from last year; 

* Belgium, up by 106 buyers or around 32 percent up from last year; 

* Australia up by 80 visitors or roughly 12 percent up from last year; Japan up by 78 visitors or 6 percent up from last year; 

* United Kingdom, up by 76 visitors or roughly 22 percent up from last year; and Israel up by 66 visitors or roughly 25 percent up from last year.

Below is an additional breakdown of visitor numbers at the Fair, held at the AsiaWorld-Expo from September 13 to 17 and the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre from September 15 to 19:

* The number of visits recorded during the Fair was 118,799.

* Hong Kong-based visitors totaled 16,328, accounting for nearly 30 percent of the total number of visitors. The rest of the visitors: 39,440, or over 70 percent of the overall total, were from overseas.

* Top 10 sources of visitors: The largest group of visitors came from mainland China. At 17,412, the number of visitors from mainland China again surpassed the number of Hong Kong-based visitors. Hong Kong region follows with 16,328; India, 3,403; the United States, 1,948; Taiwan region, 1,670; Thailand, 1,605; Japan, 1,398; the Philippines, 1,144; Korea, 988 and Australia, 738. 

Commenting on the fact that 70 percent of the total number of visitors was from outside Hong Kong, Lau says this makes the September Fair a very good barometer of business sentiment in the jewelry industry. 

Lau added that the September Fair takes the lead in setting agenda that would contribute to the development of the jewelry industry. She noted the launch of a new initiative, called the “Declaration Programme on Exhibits of Natural Diamond.” Participants in the program had a poster from the initiative, demonstrating to buyers that diamonds from these exhibitors were natural. This program provided an easier and quicker way for buyers to make an informed decision when purchasing diamonds. Participants in the program were members of global diamond trade organizations, including the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, the Antwerp World Diamond Center, Belgium, and the Israel Diamond Institute.

“It is in our interest, and in the industry’s interest, that we provide a healthy and professional business environment,” said Wolfram Diener, senior vice president of UBM Asia. “The program ensures that buyers get the proper, sufficient information about the products being offered at our fairs. We know there is a market for both natural and synthetic diamonds, and we want to be a platform for both. We are happy to have both at our show, but it is important that the buyers are well informed.”

Lau added: “The feedback from the participants regarding this initiative was positive. They acknowledged that we are going in the right direction.”

Participants also saw improved security measures on “Identity Verification at Entrance” in place; UBM Asia initiated the enhancements last year.

During the September Fair, nine seminars, one diamond auction, two pearl auctions, one conference, four jewelry fashion shows and other special events were held at the two venues.

Next year, both the June Fair and the September Fair will reach new milestones: the June Fair will celebrate its 30th anniversary while the September Fair will celebrate its 35th anniversary. 

“We are planning some new features that will further enhance buyer experience at our shows,” Lau said. “We will launch a new theme pavilion named CORE, which will be located in Hall 1C-E at the HKCEC. It will house esteemed fine finished jewelry companies that have supported the Jewellery & Gem Fairs, and consider Hong Kong as the platform from which they grow their business. In the process, they have helped propel the city and witnessed its rise as a global jewelry industry powerhouse.” 

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The Hong Kong Jewelry Fair Begins

The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair opened Tuesday at AsiaWorld-Expo. AWE houses the raw materials section of the September Fair. The fine jewelry section, meanwhile, will open on September 15 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). 

Celebrating its 34th edition, the September Fair hosts more than 3,600 exhibitors from 55 countries and regions. Fair organizer UBM Asia expects about 58,000 buyers from around the world to create active traffic in the two venues. 

Among the highlights of the Hong Kong fair include:

* Exhibition space in the two venues totals more than 135,000 square meters.

* Debut of the Myanmar and Portugal Pavilions. The new additions bring to 24 the number of group pavilions in the two venues. 

* The single largest showcase of Hong Kong jewelry, with more than 1,250 Hong Kong companies participating in the two venues, accounting for around 35 percent of exhibitors.

* Once again the fair is home to the world’s largest diamond pavilion, with around 500 diamond companies, and Asia’s biggest gemstone marketplace, with more than 750 gemstone companies.

* New exhibitors from Nigeria, Peru, Portugal, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Slovak Republic (Slovakia), French Polynesia and the Republic of Vanuatu are participating.
* ALROSA, Russia’s diamond company and the world’s biggest diamond miner by volume, is hosting its diamond auction at the Fair from September 13 to 17 at AWE. Admission is by invitation only.

* Two international pearl auctions, the 68th Robert Wan Tahiti Perles Auction and the 59th Paspaley Pearl Auction, will also be held by invitation during the fair.

* The “Declaration Program on Exhibits of Natural Diamond”, is being introduced at this edition. Participants in the program will have on display at their booths a “Declaration Program on Exhibits of Natural Diamond” poster, which will demonstrate clearly to buyers that diamonds from these exhibitors are natural. This program provides an easier and quicker way for buyers to make an informed decision when purchasing diamonds. Participants in the program are members of global diamond trade organizations, including the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, the Antwerp World Diamond Center, Belgium and the Israel Diamond Institute. The diamond exhibitors will be housed in Halls 5, 7, 9 and 11 at AWE. 

* Since June 2012, the Trade Buyer ID has enjoyed warm reception from our esteemed buyers from around the world. Beginning at this edition of the September Fair, holders of the Trade Buyer ID can enjoy up to 25 percent discount on dining privileges at participating restaurants. Buyers simply need to present the Trade Buyer ID to enjoy this privilege. 

Despite challenging economic conditions in some parts of the world, consumer confidence in China and the rest of Asia remains steady, according to the Nielsen Global Survey of Consumer Confidence and Spending Intentions, Markets. The region’s confidence score reached or exceeded 100 points in the second quarter of 2016, the survey said. Countries surveyed in Asia included the Philippines, India, Indonesia, Vietnam, China, Pakistan and Thailand.

The continued healthy growth of the Asian market, particularly China, is not lost on players in the jewelry industry. According to Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at UBM Asia, more internationally renowned organizations and laboratories are establishing their presence in the China market. 

“They partner with local authorities to hold seminars, set up scholarships and share knowledge about the latest technologies in the industry. They believe there is room for growth in the China market so they are establishing their brands here through these activities,” Lau said. 

Over the last decade, the September fair has served as a bridge to tap into China’s lucrative market. As the preeminent jewelry fair for the industry, the fair provides the greatest product range not only for Chinese buyers but also for buyers from around the world. 

“The Fair is not only an effective marketplace and platform to tap into the Asian markets, but also functions as a ‘filter’ as only serious buyers and exhibitors will attend world-class fairs like the September Fair,” Lau said. “A fair of this caliber offers tremendous value to both exhibitors and buyers. It also provides easy access to some of the industry’s most reputable vendors, thus helping the industry to continue to grow.” 

To bring in more buyers from robust markets, UBM Asia has enhanced visitor promotion in certain markets. As a result, 24 buyer delegations from the mainland China are visiting this edition. Overseas delegates from Finland, Israel, Japan, Korea, Myanmar, Russian Federation and Vietnam are also coming.

The Hong Kong Premier Pavilion features around 30 of the city’s outstanding jewelry companies and their brands. Visitors are sure to be captivated by the exquisitely crafted jewelry collections that reflect the very best of Hong Kong’s jewelry manufacturing traditions. The pavilion is located in Halls 1D & E of HKCEC.

The International Premier Pavilion is a destination for the trendy. Located in Halls 3B & C of HKCEC, the pavilion houses a select group of over 50 exhibitors from 17 countries and regions, namely Belgium, mainland China, France, Germany, Greece, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Philippines, Russian Federation, Spain, Switzerland, Thailand, United Arab Emirates, and the United States.

The Fine Design Pavilion hosts 76 internationally renowned jewelrs in the Grand Hall of HKCEC. They will showcase exquisite jewelry set with luxurious and rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls, as well as top-quality bejeweled watches, valuable masterpieces, and exclusive jewels from around the world.

The Fine Gem Pavilion is dedicated to the world’s finest loose diamonds, pearls and gemstones. Located in Hall 9 of AWE, 54 esteemed exhibitors will showcase a variety of high-quality loose gems.

The Fair press conference will be held on September 15 at 11 a.m. in meeting rooms S226 – S227 of HKCEC. Heads of jewelry associations will share their views on the developments in the jewelry trade. The Senior Vice President of UBM Asia, Wolfram Diener, will announce the latest developments in UBM Asia’s jewelry fairs portfolio.

A Welcome Reception organized by UBM Asia will be held on September 15 at 6:30pm at the Grand Foyer of HKCEC. 

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Bulgari’s ‘Piccola Catene’ Collection

Bulgari’s newest watch collection for women turns a collection of tiny watches into a bold fashion statement.

The “Piccola Catene” (small chains) collection is based on the gourmette chain that was a signature design motif of the Roman jewelry house in 1970s. The gourmette chain consists of braided flattened loops with rough and smooth sides.

The design of the chains, available in 18k pink or white gold, either paved in diamonds or diamond pavé in alternating links, brings refinement and airiness to the collection of tiny watches.

These chains attach to watches that are mere 22mm in diameter. The bezel is either paved with diamonds or engraved by the double Bulgari signature, inspired by Ancient Roman coins, and a symbol of the jewelry house. The dials are available in black lacquer, white mother-of-pearl or diamond pavé. The gold crown on all of the watches is set with a pink cabochon-cut stone.

There are four models, all with quartz movements, in the collection. They are available as follows:

* Case and chain bracelet in 18k pink gold, black lacquered dial bearing 12 brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers

* Case in 18k pink gold with bezel set with 31 brilliant-cut diamonds, 18k pink gold chain bracelet with links partially set with 22 brilliant-cut diamonds and mother-of-pearl dial bearing 12 brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers.

* Case in 18k white gold with bezel set with 31 brilliant-cut diamonds, 18k white gold chain bracelet with links partially set with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds and a black dial bearing 12 brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers.

* Case in 18k white gold with bezel set with 31 brilliant-cut diamonds, 18k white gold chain bracelet with links set with 104 brilliant-cut diamonds, and dial paved with brilliant-cut diamonds. 

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Maye Musk Wears Alex Soldier At New York Fashion Events

Maye Musk at the Fragrance Foundation Awards wearing Alex Soldier Astra jewels

Model, author and wellness speaker, Maye Musk, wore Alex Soldier jewelry at the recently held 2016 CFDA Awards and Fragrance Foundation Awards. 

For the CFDA (Council of Fashion designers of America), Maye chose gold bangles finished with Alex Soldier's signature proprietary metalwork that creates an illusion of a diamond inlay. At the Fragrance Foundation Awards, she wore earrings and ring, paired with a stingray cuff from Alex Soldier's Astra collection. 

Maye Musk at the CFDA Awards wearing Alex Soldier bangles

Handmade in NYC, Alex Soldier jewelry is available at the company’s Alex Soldier Times Square boutique, as well as select Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide. 

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Eight ‘Protagonists’ Honored As Jewelers And Artists

The statuette by Alex Soldier consists of 35 separate parts of gold and platinum with rubies, sapphires, diamonds and pearls. A removable ruby ring completes the work. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Eight US jewelers were honored by an Italian publication for their uncompromising vision Monday while they showed their jewels during a special event at Bonhams New York.

They were selected by the Italian jewelry publication, Vogue Gioiello, in its annual listing of “US Protagonists,” described as being “the best contemporary fine jewelry designers in the US.” The idea is to give these US-based artists international attention.

Maria Soldier wears Alex Soldier’s Anemone Coronaria (crown) brooches during the “US Protagonists” event at Bonhams New York. Photo by Anthony DeMarco 

The eight U.S. “protagonists” for this year are: Alex Soldier, Alexandra Mor, Heidi Gardner NYC, Hoorsenbuhs, K. Brunini Jewels, Suzanne Kalan, Sylva & Cie and Temple St. Clair.

Approximately 350 jewelry lovers and media representatives attended the event in which each jeweler showed their work in display cases. Since nearly all of the designers were in attendance, people were able to talk with them as well try on and buy their jewels.

Alexandra Mor and her jewels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Susan Abeles, Bonhams director of US Jewelry, in her welcoming remarks, stressed that the pieces on display are wearable and collectible art.

“These are jewelers of the 21st Century,” she said. “It’s your responsibility to meet them, to hear their story, to find their inspiration, and to touch the jewelry—pick it up, try it on. To understand what the artist was trying to do…. Pick out what you like. There’s something in every taste and for everyone.”

There certainly was something for everyone as each designer showcased their independent, artistic flair.

Alex Soldier pearl ring. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

For example, Alex Soldier specializes in several techniques, including those he created, and combines them in jewelry of differing textures and forms. One of his specialties is using casting techniques to create sculptural pieces made of many separate parts. In fact, in addition to jewels, Soldier is known for his sculptural objets d'art.

Rare amatrin gem (which combines the colors of amethyst and citrine) on a ring flanked by two amethysts by Alexandra Mor. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Alexandra Mor creates elegant, well-crafted pieces with signature characteristics such as the use of large colored gemstones, “floating” diamond melee and knife-edge wire trim. Out of this group, she is perhaps the best at incorporating her work and her persona into her brand.

Wrap your wrist with a woman’s pelvic bone. 18K Gold Plated Brass with five orange sapphires by Heidi Gardner NYC. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Heidi Gardner describes her work as “dangerous and delicate” and for good reason. She specializes in jewels that depict skeletal structures—such as spines, pelvises and (of course) skulls—of humans and all sorts of animals whether they walk, swim or fly. Somehow she manages to make her silver and gold-plated brass pieces to appear playful and even beautiful.

Katey Brunini wearing her large flower brooches made of cow bones. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Katey Brunini of K. Brunini Jewels is artistic, innovative and endlessly creative, taking inspiration from the primitive to the modern and using materials one would not associate with jewelry making, such as cow bones, which she fashioned into large, milky white flower brooches that she wore at the event.

Tree of Life pendant by Temple St. Clair. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Temple St. Clair has been a leader in the fine jewelry industry for many years, known for her signature gold pieces with colored gems and design influences from her travels around the world. All of her jewels are handmade in Florence by traditional goldsmiths. Last year she introduced a couture line of nine one-of-a-kind pieces. Those works were not at the event as she chose to show some of her signature pieces.

Ancient coin necklace with handmade beads By Sylva & Cie. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Sylva & Cie was one of the biggest surprises for me at the event. I never saw its pieces in person or met its founder and designer, Sylva Yepremian. She creates high quality fine jewels but the most interesting items for me were jewels that combine new materials with vintage and period items, such as antique coins and glass beads, into one-of-a-kind pieces.

Patile Kalandjian wears diamond and gold choker by Suzanne Kalan. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Suzanne Kalan, whose jewels are designed by Suzanne and her daughter, Patile, are well known for their “Fireworks” collection, which features baguette-cut diamonds placed in clusters and rows and other untraditional ways that appear like firecrackers.

Long, flowing linked gold chain by Hoorsenbuhs. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Hoorsenbuhs, founded by self-taught designer Robert Keith in 2005, specializes in fashion-forward hand-made luxury gold jewels. The company is best-known for its tri-link rings and its partnerships with a number of celebrities.

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Doris Panos Fashion Collection

Cuff Collection

Doris Panos is an award-winning luxury jewelry designer for more than 20 years whose pieces are worn by celebrities and sold at high-end retailers. She is known for her gold and diamond designs that are both intricate and bold, including stackable rings and bangles, delicate marquis-shaped drop pendant necklaces, and 18k white gold, round-cut diamond stud earrings with pavé diamond border details, and big yellow-gold bracelets.

Flirty Eye Collection

During the past three years Panos has been branching out, creating more affordable fashion pieces based on her original designs and selling them through television retail networks such as HSN and QVC and through volume department stores such as JCPenney. 

Medussa Collection

She extended this further with the Doris Panos Fashion Collection unveiled in October. This more affordable collection is manufactured with the original designs and molds used for her luxury jewels, but using less costly materials, such as hand cut crystals in lieu of diamonds and brass overlay gold in lieu of precious metals. 

Precious Nest Collection

Panos insists that these are not knockoffs but “original designs by the original designer, for a fraction of the price.”

rose rings

The collection includes the signature stackable bangles, long layered necklaces, earrings and bold statement rings. The pieces are offered in four metal finishes of Silver Tone, Gold Tone, Rose Tone and Gunmetal. The jewels are available at select volume department retailers and exclusively on the new Doris Panos Fashion Collection website. Prices range from $40 to $250. 

Doris Panos

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Alex Soldier And His Sculptural Artistic Jewels

A mix of darken silver necklaces, brooches, earrings and cuffs from Alex Soldier’s Astra Collection

There always seem to be a place for those few who can create jewels using original techniques and artistic expressions.

Alex Soldier can certainly fit into this category. He prides himself on creating miniature sculptures using techniques that he personally developed. A recent tour of his Manhattan showroom jammed with his jewelry pieces and objects of art reveal that both types of items have this sculptural quality. Some his works are created separately in parts and then pieced together. There’s plenty of micro-quality work from pavé gem-setting to the carving of delicate lines into precious metals to give the piece a softer finish, resembling silk and cloth rather than hard metals. He will work with any and all types of metals and gems in multiple combinations.

Examples of butterflies by Alex Soldier

In terms of style, his work goes to a variety of places. He seems to prefer heavily faceted colored gems. He creates patterns with a variety of colorful pavé gems. His flowers often have movement. Everything he produces has a great level of detail and texture. When he’s not creating pieces encrusted with gems, he’s doing it with intricate lattice work, using space for texture and design.

An example of Alex Soldier's Snail Rings

One of his best-known pieces is his snails. Each snail is embroidered with an assortment of precious gems that form a unique color pattern. Every composition is further enhanced with final touches of fine texturing, hand-applied in several layers by Soldier.

Soldier doesn’t seem to have any present or past mentors in the art and jewelry field. What he considers his strongest influence is his native Russia, more specifically, the city of Perm in the remote Ural mountain region. It was there he says he was first influenced by the story of “Danila,”  who spent seven years to carve a flower out of malachite that was ideal in form and beauty. Russian themes are certainly represented in his objects of art.

Alex Soldier's Diamond Starfish

It was also there where he first worked as a jewelry designer in 1981, starting as an intern and six months later becoming the chief designer of the region’s largest jewelry plant.

When he arrived in the United States in 1990 he began working independently where he’s received a great of attention for his original methods of designing and producing contemporary jewelry in 18k gold and platinum with precious gemstones.

Alex Soldier's diamond-encrusted ring topped with a Tahitian black pearl 

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