Montblanc Presents Peter Brant With the Culture Arts Patronage Award

Art collector and philanthropist Peter Brant with the Montblanc de la Culture Arts Patronage Award and Luciano Pavarotti Limited Edition writing instrument Photo: credit:Nicholas Hunt/Getty Images for Montblanc 

An intimate gathering of actors, artists and tastemakers gathered at New York’s Kappo Masa restaurant Tuesday to support Peter Brant as he received the 24th Montblanc de la Culture Arts Patronage Award. Guests included actress Sienna Miller, artists Urs Fischer and Todd DiCurcio, and fashion director Cameron Silver.

The award is given each year to individuals in 11 countries who have a history of giving their time and talents to support the arts and art projects. The luxury brand based in Hamburg, Germany, has a long history of supporting arts and culture throughout the world. 

Montblanc North American CEO Mike Giannattasio, Sienna Miller and Peter Brant Photo:credit:Nicholas Hunt/Getty Images for Montblanc 

In addition to being an avid collector of modern art, Brant founded The Brant Foundation, Inc., which makes artwork available to institutions and individuals for scholarly study, examination and loan; and The Brant Foundation Art Study Center, a space in Greenwich, Conn., that serves as a gallery and learning center that showcases exhibitions and promotes the appreciation of contemporary art and design. These two organizations are the central elements that represent Brant’s three decades of support to the arts community.

A key element of the Montblanc de la Culture Arts Patronage Award is a €15,000 ($16,164) cash gift, which Brant donated to the two organizations. He also received a Montblanc Patron of Art Luciano Pavarotti Limited Edition writing instrument specially handcrafted at Montblanc’s Artisan Atelier in honor of the opera icon. The writing instrument is specifically made for the 11 recipients of the arts patronage award around the world.

Sienna Miller Photo: credit:Nicholas Hunt/Getty Images for Montblanc 

On the podium Brant thanked those who helped him to appreciate and to pursue his passion for arts at a young age. His first purchases included works by Andy Warhol and Franz Kline. “The fondest moments of my life are the artists I collected and the dealers who taught me,” he said.

Brant told me afterward that he was surprised when he learned he received the award. 

“It’s a great honor to receive the award from a company that supports the arts,” he said. “I love doing what I do and I don’t need an award but it’s nice.”

Sculptor Urs Fischer Photo: credit:Nicholas Hunt/Getty Images for Montblanc 

Sienna Miller was one of the two presenters of the award to Brant. “Art is in the heart of everything Peter Brant does,” she said.

Urs Fischer, a Swiss-born sculptor who was the other presenter, added, “The biggest artwork in the Brant Foundation is Peter M. Brant.”

Mike Giannattasio, CEO of Montblanc North America, expressed the importance of artists in the world.

Mike Giannattasio Photo: credit:Nicholas Hunt/Getty Images for Montblanc 

“Arts and culture plays an important part of who we are as an organization,” he said. “Artists are the journalists and diaries of our time. If we lose our culture we lose our memory.”

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Gold Jewelry Demand Up 6% in Q3 As Gold Prices Fall

Consumers in much of the world increased spending on gold jewelry, making pieces by designers such as Alex Soldier more in demand

Global demand for gold jewelry grew 6 percent year-over-year in the third quarter of 2015 to reach 631.9 tons, marking the strongest third quarter for jewelry demand since 2008, according to the World Gold Council. 

Lower prices for gold in July and August attracted consumer to buy gold jewelry, according to “Gold Demand Trends” report for the third quarter of 2015. This is in strong contrast with a 14 percent decline in gold jewelry demand in the second quarter.

On a year-to-date basis, jewelry demand amounted to 1,750.2 tons, 3 percent behind the same period of last year.

In India, the drop in price of gold led to a dramatic turnaround in consumer demand for the world’s second-largest consumer of gold jewelry. Year-over-year demand for the third quarter increased 15 percent to 211.1 tons. This compares with a 23 percent decline in the second quarter of 2015.

“Between mid-July and mid-August, retailers saw unusually brisk trade for the time of year,” according to the report. “Traditionally, this period experiences a lull in demand in the pause between the end of the April-May wedding season and the onset of autumn festivities, particularly by Diwali. The surge in demand ended after mid-August with a sharp recovery in the price of gold, exacerbated by a weakening of the rupee.”

Rural and semi-urban consumers were the main engine of growth in the Indian jewelry sector, according to the report.

However, the report warns that the “fourth quarter outlook is more muted.”

In China, the world’s largest gold jewelry market, lower prices and strong Valentine’s Day sales lifted consumer consumption in the third quarter as gold jewelry demand grew a modest 4 percent, year-over-year, to 187.6 tons. In line with global patterns, consumers responded favorably to the sharp drop in the price in July. The drop in price coincided with China’s Valentine’s Day on August 20.

Again, the WGC warns that there may be trouble ahead for the gold jewelry demand in the fourth quarter.

“The jewelry sector in China faces headwinds from a number of quarters. Credit conditions remain tight and competition fierce. 18k jewelry continues gradually to encroach on the market for 24k, in part due to manufacturers pushing more contemporary, highly designed product in order to gain market share.

“Expectations for the fourth quarter are somewhat more conservative, bearing in mind the weakening macro picture.”

Meanwhile, jewelry demand in Hong Kong grew by 22 percent to 13.7 tons, primarily due to higher-design, unique pieces, popular with mainland Chinese tourists.

In the US, jewelry demand continues to make “creeping gains,” the WGC says in its report. Demand grew by 2 percent to 26.2 tons.

“Growth in the sector reflected a continued desire for gold in the 10k and 14k sectors, against a hesitant economic recovery,” according to the report. “However, imports again outpaced demand, as the retail sector shored up inventories in anticipation of further strength in demand as the holiday season approaches.”

Other markets are as follows:

* East Asia - Jewelry demand made double-digit gains in Indonesia, South Korea and Vietnam, assisted by the falling price, WGC said. Indonesian demand was further boosted by an economic stimulus package unveiled by the government in early September. In Vietnam, economic growth and a relatively benign inflation environment also contributed to the upturn. Meanwhile, jewelry demand in Singapore and Malaysia declined by 24 percent and 10 percent, respectively. Year-on-year comparisons in Malaysia were negatively affected by the Goods and Services Tax, introduced in April.

* Turkey - Demand fell 29 percent year-over-year to 12.1 tons, the lowest third quarter ever, according to WGC records. “Political instability and the rising threat of terrorist attacks have had a devastating impact on consumer sentiment. Those wishing to seek respite from the turmoil in gold did so through investment products: bar and coin demand was contrastingly positive, up 97 percent year-on-year.”

* Middle East - Demand for gold jewelry varied as minor gains in Saudi Arabia and Egypt cancelled out slight declines in Kuwait, United Arab Emirates and the other Gulf countries, WGC said. “Lower oil prices and regional political tension tussled with the fall in gold prices to keep demand broadly stable.” The exception was Iran, where jewelry demand rallied by 40 percent to almost two-year highs. “Consumer sentiment was boosted by the signing of the nuclear deal, an affect which was further magnified by the tumbling gold price, although the 9 percent VAT rate introduced in Q2 was something of a headwind.”

Gold jewelry demand in Europe fell 1 percent as demand was stagnant across most markets, according to the report. Exceptions were France where gold jewelry demand declined 6 percent and Spain where demand grew 5 percent.

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Buyer of $48.4 Million ‘Blue Moon’ Diamond Revealed

The Blue Moon. Photo credit: Cora International/Tino Hammid

The 12.03-carat “Blue Moon” sold for more than $48.4 million Wednesday, eclipsing world auction records for any diamond, gem or jewel at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale Wednesday.It's the first diamond or gemstone to surpass $4 million per carat, another auction record.   

The cushion-shaped Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid blue diamond sold within its $35 million to $55 million estimate.

The buyer has been identified as billionaire Hong Kong real estate investor Joseph Lau, according to news reports, the same person who paid a record $28.5 million for a 16.08-carat cushion shaped fancy vivid pink diamond at Christie’s Geneva sale on Tuesday. He reportedly named both diamonds after his seven-year-old daughter, Josephine. “The Blue Moon of Josephine” for his most recent purchase and “Sweet Josephine” for the pink diamond.

The second highest price ever paid for a blue diamond at auction was $32.6 million in Nov 2014 for the “Zoe Diamond” and the second highest price ever paid for a diamond at auction was $46 million for the “Graff Pink” in 2013, according to Ehud Laniado, chairman of Cora international, the seller of the Blue Moon.

“The Blue Moon diamond, a Fancy Vivid Blue stone, is a true gift of nature,” Laniado said. “A jeweler has the chance to handle a unique diamond like this only once in a lifetime if they’re lucky and we are thrilled at Cora to have had this opportunity.”

There is no other known blue diamond with this combination of size and characteristics, added gemologist Gary Roskin, executive director of the International Colored Gemstone Association.

“The Blue Moon Diamond is a magnificently beautiful and rare colored gemstone,” Roskin said. “It is Internally Flawless, right at the top of the clarity grading scale (alongside Flawless), and Fancy Vivid Blue, right at the top of the color grading scale. These are extraordinary combinations in any size, let alone 12 carats. There really isn’t another one out there to buy—at least one that we know of.”

Laniado noted that only four of 400 diamonds graded by the Gemological Institute of America received a grade of vivid blue. “Even amongst this extremely rare class of blue diamonds, to find one Vivid Blue diamond which is over 12 carats and internally flawless, really only happens once in a blue moon.”

In addition to its size and impeccable characteristics, its origin is known, which is rare. The gem was created from a 29.62-carat rough diamond discovered in January 2014 at the Cullinan mine in South Africa (owned by Petra Diamonds), the world’s largest source of fancy blue diamonds (although it accounts for less than 0.1 of its diamond output) and some of the most famous colorless diamonds on earth. Cora International paid a reported $26 million for the rough. 

“It took Cora experts five months to assess the rough stone,” Laniado said. “They then created 30 models of the diamond and cut each one differently until they achieved the perfect result. It took three more months to bring the Blue Moon diamond to its ultimate spectacular shape using advanced technology and sophisticated tools.”

"The star of the evening, the ‘Blue Moon of Josephine’ was discovered at the Cullinan Mine, which is owned by Petra Diamonds, and was polished to perfection by Cora International," said David Bennett, Sotheby’s worldwide chairman of Jewellery. "It now takes its place among the world’s greatest diamonds.”

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16-Carat Pink Diamond Fetches $28.5 Million, Sets New Auction Record

A 16.08-carat cushion-shaped fancy vivid pink diamond, the largest to be offered at auction, sold for more than $28.5 million, setting a new auction record for any vivid pink diamond at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale Tuesday.

The gem was purchased by a private Asian buyer, who named it “Sweet Josephine,” the auction house said. It sold just above its high estimate of $28 million. 

The diamond is set as a ring, with a double row of pavé-set white diamonds that surround the main stone, and a third row of small pink diamonds underneath. The band is comprised of small circular-cut white diamonds set in platinum.

In almost 250 years of auction history, only three pure vivid pink diamonds of over ten carats have appeared for sale, the auction house said prior to the sale.

While most pink diamonds exhibit a color modifier like purple, orange, brown or grey, this gem shows no trace of a secondary color, Christie’s said. In addition, it’s classified as a Type IIa diamond, which means it contains little if any nitrogen and accounts for fewer than 2 percent of all diamonds.

The pink diamond was the top lot of a sale that achieved nearly $109.5 million, with 80 percent sold by lot and 86 percent by value. More to come. 

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Hong Kong Jeweler Qeelin Enters US Market

Bo Bo classic pendant in 18k white gold with black and white diamonds

Qeelin is a Hong Kong-based jeweler that combines traditional Chinese themes with French craftsmanship, a design-first philosophy, the use of precious materials and a bit of whimsy. It designs, manufactures and sells its jewels through its more than 20 boutiques and other retail outlets, mostly in Asia.

The brand has made quite a name for itself in Asia and to a lesser extent Europe and the Middle East. Now it is entering the US market.

I first met Dennis Chan, Qeelin’s co-founder and creative director, in 2013 in Hong Kong when Qeelin wasn’t a year removed from its surprise acquisition by French luxury goods holding company, Kering. So it was nice surprise to see him again in New York accompanied by the brand’s new CEO, Christophe Artaux.

Wulu ring in 18k rose gold with pave diamonds

The brand is “dipping its toes” into the US market, Artaux said. It has no plans to open a boutique in the US, opting instead to work with luxury jewelry retailers located in large Asian communities. They will debut at Neiman Marcus stores beginning this month in Newport Beach, Las Vegas and Honolulu; and a few independent retailers in California, including CH Premier in Santa Clara. They plan to open with five more retailers in the first quarter of 2016.

They will be selective with their product mix as well entering the market with the brand’s most classic pieces (the brand has 12 core collections and also produce couture pieces, bridal jewelry, accessories, and ladies jewelry watches).

They said they expect to attract well-traveled Asians who are familiar with Qeelin as well as new customers.

The brand focuses on producing fine jewelry with traditional Chinese themes combined with French craftsmanship. Chan says he creates the designs first and then finds the precious materials to build the product.

Xi Xi ear studs in 18k white gold with diamonds and onyx

The brand specializes in fashionable versions of traditional Chinese images, such as pandas, goldfish and dragons using diamonds, 18k gold and precious gems. In some cases the parts move, such as the wings on the brand’s Phoenix necklace. The jewelry is light and lively and designed to be worn daily.

“I like blending east and west,” Chan said. “Our Bo Bo collection for example; the panda is China’s most treasured animal but in my collection it took on the characteristics of a teddy bear.”

The US is an attractive market for its sheer size and wealth. However, it is also a diverse and difficult market to master. The level of penetration this Chinese-themed brand will have in the US remains to be seen. A brand that creates, distributes and retails its own jewels certainly has an advantage.

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Beth Bernstein’s Book ‘If These Jewels Could Talk’ Set To Launch

Any day now writer and journalist Beth Bernstein will be celebrating the launch of her third book about jewelry. 

“If These Jewels Could Talk: The Legends Behind Celebrity Gems,” is part academic research, part a behind-the-scene look at celebrity and part emotional journey. With all of it involving jewels.

The book’s main focus is the glamour and glitz of Hollywood stars and their personal relationship with their gems and jewels primarily in the 20th Century, beginning at about the 1920s. However, political figures and others who celebrate the same style of the times also make their way onto the pages, including Coco Chanel, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Michelle Obama (a 21st Century figure). The book is filled with pictures and illustrations of jewels and their famous owners.

The book also looks at the impact of jewelry brands and their international growth and power in the high jewelry and fashion industries. They include Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co, Harry Winston, David Webb and Verdura. The book’s cover shows the ruby, diamond, gold and platinum “Sash Heart” brooch, 1941, created by Verdura. It was commissioned by actor Tyrone Power for his wife, Annabella, for Christmas.

“Throughout the 20th Century the world’s most fabulous jewels have held tremendous sentimental and symbolic value, as they are linked to the most significant moments and memories of Hollywood ‘royalty,’ aristocracy and international icons of style,” Bernstein says. 

The time period is important because it is when the world became a more connected place through the introduction of modern travel and communication. The cultural influences of the Hollywood film industry spread to Europe while European style made its way to the US through the proliferation of magazines, movies and later television. This was the time that small European jewelry houses became international businesses with a huge influence on fashion. And it was the beginning of the influence celebrity fame and culture throughout the world. Stars and what they wore had a direct influence on mass appeal (as they do today) and the smarter and better-connected jewelry houses did their best to adorn these influencers with their jewels. 

Bernstein—a jewelry journalist for various publications and author of two previous books, and a jewelry historian—provides the personal tastes, anecdotes and the stories of the women who wore and collected the pieces. They include Elizabeth Taylor, the world’s most famous jewelry collector of the period, and socialite Helena Rubinstein who went out and bought her own pieces after arguments with her husband, dubbing them her “quarrel jewelry.” 

Wallis Simpson’s love story was told through her jewels. Grace Kelly’s emerald cut Cartier engagement ring appeared with her in the film, “High Society.” Marlene Dietrich was a collector who wore her jewels in several of her films.

There are also examples of jewels being a major influence on the plot of the film, such as the Cartier diamond bracelet in Alfred Hitchcock’s “Lifeboat” and the Harry Winston diamond necklace in “Notorious.” 

The hardcover book, published by ACC Art Books, is $95 and will be available in the coming days. A launch party for the book will be held Thursday at Doyle & Doyle in New York, which specializes in vintage, antique, and estate jewelry. 

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The GraffStar Slim Eclipse

It’s a watch so dark and thin it’s practically stealth.

The Graff Slim Eclipse is crafted in a titanium black DLC case. The material provides exceptional strength, scratch resistance, and at 39 grams extremely lightweight.

Bringing the darkness theme to even more extreme levels, all the details of the watch are in black, including the Graff “icon” at 12 o’clock, the Graff name, the hands and hour makers, the black crown topped with a black diamond, the black alligator strap and the titanium black DLC pin buckle.

The watch is powered by the Graff Caliber 3—an ultra-slim self-winding Swiss movement that measures 3.20mm in depth. The 43mm watch case measures just 6.35mm deep.

The luxury brand says the watch is designed for daily use. In fact, that’s what Laurence Graff, the company’s founder and namesake, wears as his everyday timepiece.

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