Inside Graff’s Workshop Where The Most Desired Jewels In The World Are Made

"The Fascination," a $40 million transformable watch with more than 152 carats of diamonds

Sometimes I get to do some pretty cool things. For instance on a sunny, warm March afternoon in London I entered the Graff Diamonds workshop where I was able to see how some of the most desired jewels in the world are made.

Below street level a well-lit room with white walls and a low ceiling was tightly packed with rows of bench jewelers working independently while machinery buzzed and hummed around them. About 70 craftsmen produce roughly 350 jewels per month, says Raymond Graff, director of the workshop and brother of the company’s founder, Laurence Graff. This includes the unique jewels made with some of the world’s most sought-after diamonds and colored gems.

The making of a diamond necklace in the Graff workshop

The jewels are based on designs created a floor above done with both hand drawings and via CAD, which Raymond Graff says provides better design details.

One of the things that separates Graff’s workshop from other high jewelers is that it uses modern manufacturing principles to produce a high number of luxury jewels while adhering to traditional high jewelry hand craftsmanship. The operation produces so many jewels that it contains a branch of the Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office for the hallmarking of precious metals (a requirement in the U.K.). Precious metals come in raw forms and in various shapes, which are then refined by metalsmiths into the framework for the jewels. The diamonds and other gems are set by craftsmen that specialize in this work.

Diamond setting a flower brooch in the Graff workshop

One of Graff’s latest pieces that highlight the workshop's craftsmanship is the limited edition “Princess Butterfly Secret Watch,” which features white gold shaped into sensual curves and butterfly wings paved with diamonds and colored gems. The stones are mounted with the invisible set technique, where small grooves are cut in the underside of each diamond or gemstone allowing them to slide onto a grid hidden beneath the stones. To achieve a finish of pure color the stones must be color-matched, before being cut to fit tightly against one another as if made exactly for the delicate curvature of the butterfly wings.

The “secret” watch dial is revealed beneath the gem-paved wings by pressing on a round diamond, which allows the wings to slide apart.

Setting a large diamond on a ring

Graff is known for diamonds and all the diamonds used for Graff jewels (whether personally sourced by Laurence Graff or through the normal supply chain) go through the South African Diamond Corporation (SAFDICO), which is Graff’s diamond procurement and polishing division in Botswana. It is one of the largest such operations in Africa. This practice of vertical integration (sourcing the materials and making the jewels in-house) increases efficiency, enhances quality control and serves as another example of the luxury jewelry operation’s commitment to manufacturing principles.

The number of iconic statement diamonds purchased by Laurence Graff is legendary. In some cases he made a bold decision to re-cut the diamond. Recently, Graff unveiled “The Graff Venus.” At 118.78 carats, it is the world’s largest D-color, flawless heart-shaped diamond. Contributing to its rarity is that there is likely no other diamond manufacturer willing to cut such a large D-color, flawless diamond into such a challenging shape.

Enhancing the details of a sapphire bracelet

This shows the trust Laurence Graff has in its diamond cutters and polishers and the risks he’s willing to take to create such a gem. It’s the same trust that Laurence Graff shows throughout the operation and just one of the reasons for the success of Graff Diamonds.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Graff's Newest Acquisition Is A 373-Carat Rough Diamond

Graff Diamonds has acquired a 373.72-carat rough diamond that was once part of the Lesedi la Rona, the second largest gem quality diamond ever discovered. 

The icy gem measures 48mm x 41mm x 22mm and is classified as D color—meaning that the diamond is colorless, the highest color grade—and Type IIa—considered the purest type of diamond. It is estimated to be approximately 3 billion years old and was likely formed when the earth was still being created.

The luxury jeweler said Tuesday the rough gem has the potential to yield “a significant polished stone.”

“Every diamond has an inner script that we must read and respect,” Laurence Graff, founder of the London-based high jewelry brand, said in a statement. “We will now spend time discovering the secrets of this magnificent stone. Knowing that nature has given us this extraordinary gift, we take on the great responsibility of releasing its inner beauty.”

The diamond was unearthed at the Karowe mine in Botswana and was once attached to the Lesedi la Rona, the second largest gem quality diamond ever discovered and the largest in more than a century. Graff said it was separated from its famous sibling during the recovery process. 

The 1,109-carat Lesedi la Rona was unearthed by Lucara Diamond Corp., a Canadian diamond mining company, in November 2015. 

The auction house, Sotheby’s, placed the Lesedi la Rona in a stand-alone auction in London in June, 2016, with an estimate of more than $70 million. The diamond failed to sell. 

The public sale, which the auction house described as “unprecedented” for a rough stone, turned out to be quite controversial among the few diamantaires with the means to purchase such large diamonds, according to this story in Vanity Fair. One of the persons quoted as being against the auction was none other than Laurence Graff. 

“It’s not nice,” Graff reportedly said. “We don’t like it, what they’re doing. It’s just not how it’s done. We don’t want to have to expose ourselves in public [at an auction]. To contend in the open arena, we find it undesirable.” 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

The Graff Princess Butterfly Timepiece

Graff Diamonds has introduced the Princess Butterfly, a highly-sculptural bejeweled depiction of the winged insect that has been the motif for an endless number of jewels. In this case, the creature takes its form with an outline of tapered baguette diamonds, which define the pavé wings and conceal the hidden timepiece. It is available in white, pink or yellow diamonds.

A jeweled mechanism is pushed to reveal the secret 17mm watch dial set with mother of pearl. 

According to the London-based jeweler, the creation of a transformable jewelry watch required master craftsmen spending months testing the design. It is a traditional motif but 3D technology was used to map the curve and contour of the butterfly wings.

For the all diamond Princess Butterfly version, the bracelet comprises four alternating flowing and interwoven lines of pavé baguette and brilliant round diamonds. 

It also is available with a satin watch strap complete one version of the timepiece. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Introducing The ‘Graff Vendôme’ 105-Carat D Flawless Diamond

Graff Diamonds has unveiled the “Graff Vendôme,” a 105.07-carat D flawless pear shaped diamond, celebrating the opening of its new store on Place Vendôme in Paris. 

The diamond was created from a 314-carat rough unearthed at a mine in the southern African Kingdom of Lesotho. 

Following a computerized 3D mapping of the rough diamond, Graff’s master cutters took “many months” to laser-cut and hand polish the gem. The resulting diamond is the largest cut and polished diamond of its kind in Graff’s history.  

An additional 12 “satellite” diamonds were created from the rough with the largest being 17.10 carats and nine having D flawless quality, the highest color and clarity grading for a colorless diamond. 

The new Graff Place Vendôme boutique opened in early June and is located next to the Ritz Paris. It’s the brand’s first boutique in Paris. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

The GraffStar Slim Eclipse

It’s a watch so dark and thin it’s practically stealth.

The Graff Slim Eclipse is crafted in a titanium black DLC case. The material provides exceptional strength, scratch resistance, and at 39 grams extremely lightweight.

Bringing the darkness theme to even more extreme levels, all the details of the watch are in black, including the Graff “icon” at 12 o’clock, the Graff name, the hands and hour makers, the black crown topped with a black diamond, the black alligator strap and the titanium black DLC pin buckle.

The watch is powered by the Graff Caliber 3—an ultra-slim self-winding Swiss movement that measures 3.20mm in depth. The 43mm watch case measures just 6.35mm deep.

The luxury brand says the watch is designed for daily use. In fact, that’s what Laurence Graff, the company’s founder and namesake, wears as his everyday timepiece.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website

Graff Diamonds Sparkling Rosette Collection

Taking the traditional design of the Rosette, known for its simple materials, and giving it a sparkling upgrade is what Graff Diamonds has done with the release of its new jewelry collection.

The pieces in the Rosette collection features a central round diamond, surrounded by eight diamonds or gemstones, followed by further loops of pavé diamonds. The design uses round gemstones and pear-shaped diamonds that flow from the central motif. 

Anne-Eva Geffroy, Graff design director, noted that the design takes its inspiration by the ways women historically used the rose for simple adornment.

“Throughout history, women have decorated and adorned their bodies with elements of flora and fauna such as flowers,” she said. “These exquisite elements from the natural world continue to provide a strong source of inspiration for our jewelry collections.”

The Rosette collection features pendants, suspended from delicate chains with diamond and gemstone accents, earrings and sautoirs made of diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

The Graff 132-Carat ‘Golden Empress’ Fancy Yellow Diamond

You might say Laurence Graff has a thing for yellow diamonds. While the renowned jeweler certainly handled his share of historic and statement diamonds in all colors, it’s the yellows that seem to keep appearing with Graff’s name on it.

Graff’s latest catch is being called “The Golden Empress,” a 132.55-carat Fancy Intense cushion-cut yellow diamond. The diamond is set on a necklace with approximately 30 other yellow diamonds. Fancy colored diamonds are very popular these days as adornment and investment, because of their beauty and rarity. Only one in 10,000 diamonds are classified as fancy colored. So it’s even rarer to find one a particular color, such as yellow.

Graff, the founder of the international luxury diamond and jewelry firm that bears his name, purchased the 299-carat rough diamond that created The Golden Empress. It was unearthed from the Letšeng mine in the tiny southern African kingdom of Lesotho.

“The potential to craft a diamond that could join its hall of noble, historic and world famous stones was a thrilling prospect,” Graff said in a statement.

The company then set out to study the rough to determine the best way to cut it and then set out to do the work. In addition to The Golden Empress, the rough yielded eight satellite diamonds, comprising six pear shape Fancy Yellow stones—the largest being 21.34 carats—and two brilliant round stones.

Graff’s history of handling statement yellow diamonds includes the following: “The Delaire Sunrise,” the largest square emerald cut, Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond in the world at 118.08 carats; The Gemini Yellows at 51.29 carats and 55.74 carats; and the 100.09-carat Graff Vivid Yellow, which sold for more than $16.3 million in May 2014 at the Sotheby’s Geneva auction.

On Tuesday, a 14.49-carat yellow diamond on a ring by Graff sold for $293,000, at Christie’s New York Important Jewels auction.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Graff to Unveil Secret Watch at Baselworld 2015

Graff Diamonds will mark its second year at Baselworld by unveiling an elaborate brooch made with layers of sapphire and diamond beads that reveal a petite watch embellished with more diamonds and sapphires.

It is called the Sapphire and Diamond Beaded Tassel Secret Watch.

The brooch is a complex piece with multiple layers of beaded tassels that can be worn three ways: as a single piece, as individual brooches, or as a single brooch with a tassel. It uses more than 330 carats of sapphires and 40 carats of diamonds and took “many” months to make, the company said. One of the tassel groupings conceals a tiny pavé diamond watch face suspended from a platinum chain.

The jewelry watch was designed and crafted at Graff’s London headquarters. The technique used to create a cascading beaded tassel required matching sapphire beads in order to create a consistent three dimensional element no matter how the jewel is worn.

“For me, gemstone beads embody fluidity and movement so I created a design for a piece with row upon row of draped sapphires and diamonds, which lead the eye towards a dynamic three dimensional tassel,” said Anne-Eva Geffroy, Graff Diamonds design director. “The inclusion of a secret watch, delicately suspended from a platinum chain is highly unique, adding a further element of surprise and intrigue.”

Framing the tassel are two ornate brooches with pear shape sapphires at their centers embraced by an arrangement of white diamonds united by five rows of sapphire and diamond beads.

The watch is made in Graff tradition of jewelry timepieces Geffroy said.

“Jeweled and secret timepieces for ladies have formed an important part of our collection for many years and continue to be a popular choice among our clientele globally,” she said.

Baselworld will be held March 19 – 26 in Basel, Switzerland.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Graff Unveils Flagship Boutique in Hong Kong

The slowdown in luxury spending in China and Asia hasn’t had an effect on Graff Diamonds. Or so it seems as the luxury jeweler opened its flagship Hong Kong store inside the St George’s Building, in the city’s Central district. The London-based company has branded boutiques in seven Asian cities: Hangzhou, Hong Kong, Macau, Shanghai, Tokyo and Taipei; and a total of 18 retail spaces in the region. 

Designed by architect Peter Marino, the store is in the familiar style of Graff boutiques around the world with its modern and contemporary aesthetic incorporating bespoke fixtures and fittings. Walls are clad in paper parchments, mica and painted bamboo; while chairs are wrapped in woven and plush knitted fabrics.

Each area of the store has a distinctive design and color palette with warm gold and bronze tones in contrast with icy green and grey hues.

Jewelry showcases are located on interior walls creating maximum impact for displaying jewels and watches. A chandelier comprising spheres of green, gold and silver serves as a centerpiece suspended from rigid silver rods, illuminating the diamonds below.

An artwork by American artist, Rachel Lee Hovnanian, is the central element in the VIP room.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

‘Graff Ruby’ Leads Esteemed Jewelry Collection For Sale at Sotheby’s

The 8.62-carat “Graff Ruby,” is the lead item in a collection of 16 jewels belonging to Dimitri Mavrommatis that is part of Sotheby’s Geneva November 12 Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale.  The cushion-shaped Burmese stone is estimated to fetch 6.9 million to nearly 9.2 million. 

The gem possesses the rare vivid red hue known as “pigeon’s blood,” according to a report from the Swiss Gemmological Institute, and is also of outstanding purity and superb brilliance.

Dimitri Mavrommatis began a lifelong interest in the fine and decorative arts in 1982 during trips to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The 16 jewelry and gem pieces from his personal collection to be placed on auction at the Beau-Rivage Hotel is expected to bring in more than $17.6 million.

David Bennett, chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Division for Europe and the Middle East, said the collection “is a testament to Dimitri Mavrommatis’ discerning eye and impeccable taste.”

Another item of from the Mavrommatis collection is a 27.54-carat Kashmir sapphire (pictured above) to fetch $3 million to $6.1 million. The stone exhibits a saturated velvety blue color, combined with a very high purity, according to the auction house. “These features elevate Kashmir sapphires above all others and the appearance of such a fine example weighing over 20 carats is an extremely rare event.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Clouds, Flowers and Beautiful Gems Inspire Graff’s Nuage Collection

Sapphire and diamond necklace

Clouds and flowers in the world’s most famous gardens provided the inspiration for the the Nuage collection, the latest line by Graff Diamonds available to the public after its unveiling at the recently concluded La Biennale des Antiquaires. 

Ruby and diamond necklace

Anne-Eva Geffroy, Graff’s design director, used organic forms; geometric patterns; and a color palette dominates by red, white and blue to create the first six pieces released in the collection. The inspiration is based on her travels to the world’s most famous gardens, including the Ginkaku-ji a Zen temple in Kyoto, the Majorelle Garden in Marrakech, the Kew Gardens in London and the gardens of Claude Monet in France. 

Ruby and diamond bracelet

Nuage is French for cloud and the geometric forms replicate the swirling of these heavenly bodies. For example, a sapphire and diamond necklace uses swirling pavé diamonds in the shapes of clouds that embrace brilliant cut sapphires spouting out of platinum and diamonds like flowers in bloom. The necklace is accompanied by a matching bracelet. 

Sapphire and diamond bracelet

The motif of clouds and flowers are played out throughout the remainder of the collection, which includes a matching earrings, bracelet and necklace set with the same swirling diamond pavé over platinum. In this case the flowers are more pronounced in both the swirling formations and in use of rubies to create flower figures within the clouds. 

Ruby and diamond bracelet

Finally, among the items released by Graff, is a platinum and white diamond bracelet using the same motif.

This is classic jewelry in the Graff tradition where high-quality diamonds and gems take center stage and the designs showcase the gems.

Diamond Nuage bracelet.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Graff Honors Paris With Two Statement Jewels For La Biennale

Royal Star of Paris

The Biennale des Antiquaires at the Grand Palais in Paris hosts some of the top high jewelers in the world who release special collections every two years just for this event. Graff Diamonds marks its return to the show by unveiling a new collection led by two statement jewels centered by standout diamonds and gems: the “Royal Star of Paris,” and “Le Collier Bleu de Reve.”

The Royal Star of Paris, a brooch (which also can be worn as a pendant) has two diamonds of at least 100 carats each: the “Graff Sunflower,” a 107.46-carat fancy yellow cushion cut diamond and the “Graff Perfection,” a 100-carat D flawless pear shape diamond drop.

“We create legendary stones with remarkable stories to tell, one such diamond is the Graff Perfection, Graff said. “Following many hours of painstaking work, we unleashed the true potential of an incredible 225 carat rough diamond, transforming it from perfection to ultra-perfection.”

Le Collier Bleu de Reve

Le Collier Bleu de Reve is set with a 10.47 carat fancy vivid blue internally flawless briolette diamond. The other key stone is a 4.22 carat untreated old-mine Colombian emerald. The central element of the jewel can be detached from the beaded diamond necklace and worn alone as a brooch.

“I truly believe that when you are searching for the perfect precious gemstone you should look for an emerald greener than green,” Graff said. “The emerald in this necklace really is greener than green and incredibly clear.”

The remaining pieces in the Biennale collection continue the theme of stone-led design; with brooches made of rare colored diamonds and gemstones, necklaces depicting natural motifs using gemstones, and designs with beaded tassels all complemented by bracelets and earrings.

All of the jewels, including the statement pieces, are hand-crafted at Graff’s London atelier.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website

Luxury Jewelry Holiday Gifts For Procrastinators

Best-known as Angelina Jolie’s jewelry design partner, Robert Procop has created a colorful interpretation of Paris’ most famous monument, the Eiffel Tower. The diamond and gem expert, and luxury jeweler created a ring made of white gold and amethyst topped with a 50.83-carat aquamarine. The Eiffel Tower ring is available at, Robert Procop private locations in Beverly Hills, Geneva and Hong Kong.

There’s only eight shopping days left before Christmas and you still have no idea what to give your loved one. It’s difficult to go wrong with luxury jewelry as a gift for the holidays. However, choosing that will make your loved one swoon is difficult because tastes in fine baubles are personal and there are endless choices available for every need.

This one-of-kind fringe necklace by Graff has 69.40-carats of diamonds and 108.10-carats of rubies. The price is available upon request at Graff Diamonds boutiques.

The 10 pieces of jewelry I provide include one-of-a-kind high jewelry creations, pieces that can be worn throughout the day and fine designer pieces. They include items made of diamonds, colored gems and pearls. There’s even a colored-enhanced diamond ring.

Emerald and diamond earrings from gem and jewelry company, Omi Privé, are handcrafted with 13.06 total carats of pear-shaped emeralds accented with 1.05 carats of brilliant diamond rounds set in platinum. The suggested retail price is $225,000. Visit www.omiprive.com to find a retailer.

Prices range from “If you have to ask” to more affordable pieces. When available I listed the price and where the item can be purchased. Hopefully these gifts ideas can help you procrastinators buy something appropriate before it’s too late. I provided the price and availability for most of the pieces.

The Exclusive Collection Double Strand Tahitian Pearl Necklace by Mastoloni is made of Tahitian Pearls (12-14mm) secured with a diamond encrusted clasp set with 18k white gold. It has a suggested retail price of $42,500. To find a retailer, visit www.mastoloni.com.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

The Ruby Divine Ring by Martin Katz features a 2.56-carat natural cushion shape ruby microset with 336 round diamonds and 26 round rubies set in 18k white gold. Price is available upon request at the Martin Katz Beverly Hills boutique.

Amethyst and diamond earrings by jewelry designer and manufacturer, Miiori, are centered with two amethysts stones (8.19-carats) and 5.73cts of white diamonds set in 18k white gold. It retails for $17,275.

Venetian Rose Windows Earrings by Italian jewelry designer, Bizzotto, are made of 18k white and rose gold, diamonds and pink sapphires. Suggested retail price is $8,740.

The Petales Entrelaces Petits Pétales bracelet from Montblanc’s Princess Grace collection is a delicate and discreet pink gold piece of jewelry that can be throughout the day and for any occasion. It is available at Montblanc boutiques throughout the world.

The Etoile de Vie Ring by Mauboussin features a pair of 18k white gold stars, one topped with white mother of pearl alongside a second covered in pavé diamonds. It retails for $2,100 and is available at the Mauboussin boutique on Madison Avenue, New York.

Natural pink diamonds are among the most sought after in the world. Fiamma Jewelry has developed a proprietary technology to create color-enhanced pink diamonds. The Beverly ring is centered with a 1.3-carat cushion-cut diamond surrounded by 82 round brilliant pink and white diamonds mounted in 14k white and pink gold. It retails for $6,799. To find retailers visit fiammajewelry.com.

Big Pink and Orange Diamonds to Lead Geneva Auctions

The 59.6 carat "Pink Star."

If one would compare major jewelry auctions to prizefights (like I’m doing), then the large, statement diamonds would be the heavyweight contenders. The top prizes in the heavyweight division this year are extremely rare fancy colored diamonds that will be put up for auction in Geneva this week by Sotheby’s and Christie’s.

Sotheby’s on Wednesday will be offering what it calls “the most valuable diamond ever to come to auction” as part of its Magnificent Jewels sale. The Pink Star is a 59.6 carat internally flawless fancy pink vivid diamond and has a pre-sale estimate in excess of $60 million.

The diamond is graded as Type IIa, which rare for a pink diamond of this size and color. Cut over a period of two years, The Pink Star is more than twice the size of the Graff Pink—a 24.78-carat fancy intense pink diamond that established a world auction record for a diamond and any gemstone or jewel at $46.2 million, at Sotheby’s Geneva in 2010. The current record price per carat for a fancy vivid pink diamond ($2,155,332) set by a 5-carat diamond, sold in Hong Kong in January 2009.

Cut by Steinmetz Diamonds from a 132.5-carat rough, the diamond was first unveiled to the public in May 2003 as the “Steinmetz Pink.” The stone was first sold privately in 2007 and renamed The Pink Star.

In total, the Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale will comprise over 370 lots, including iconic jewels, such as the “Walska Briolette Diamond” brooch with an estimate in excess of $8 million. The total sale has a pre-sale estimate of $123 million to $167 million.

The 14,82 carat "Orange"

Meanwhile, on Tuesday, not to be outdone, Christie’s will sell the largest fancy vivid orange diamond ever to appear at auction at its Magnificent Jewels sale. Weighing approximately 14.82 carats, this diamond, called simply “The Orange,” is expected to fetch between $17 million and $21 million.

Pure orange diamonds are exceptionally rare, the auction house said. It is more common to find orange diamonds with secondary colors. The orange color is the result of the presence of nitrogen during the diamond’s creation. Among the very few fancy vivid orange diamonds that were ever sold at auction, the largest was the “Pumpkin Diamond” 5.54 carats. The Orange is more than double that size. A 4.19 carat fancy vivid orange diamond sold at auction for a record price of $2.95 million in October 2011.

Other items being presented at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction include three jewels from the world famous collection of Bolivian tycoon Simón Itturi Patiño, with the highlight being an emerald and diamond necklace by Cartier, 1937. The ‘Property of Hélène Rochas’ will include 18 lots, with a rare diamond and colored diamond ‘Tiger’ shoulder brooch, by Boivin. The Art Deco period will be represented by HRH Princess Faiza of Egypt emerald drop and diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, 1929, and an “Orientalist” emerald and diamond sautoir by Cartier, 1926.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Graff Luxury Watches At Basel

Diamond MasterGraff Tourbillon

Graff Diamonds doesn’t sell wholesale or deal with the watch and jewelry trade. So there was no reason for the brand founded by Laurence Graff to have a presence at Baselworld 2013. However, company representatives did come to Basel during the fair to show its newest collection of luxury timepieces to press members in a nearby hotel suite.

As one would expect from the London-based jeweler—known for purchasing some of the most valuable diamonds and gems in the world—the watches on display were big and bold with plenty of diamonds and gems. Gold and DLC were used for bezels shaped in a notable faceted motif that has the appearance of a single diamond, with lugs serving as prongs that would hold the “diamond” in place. These are more than just show pieces, however, as the majority of these watches contain branded calibers and high-end complications.

Even when adding the bling factor, there’s also a refinement to the pieces, a notable design trait of Graff products.

MasterGraff Minute Repeater Tourbillon
This 47mm mechanical timepiece showcases two horological complications. The dial is made of mother of pearl dial in a radial-carved motif. In addition to navy blue, the dial is available in black and white. The minute repeater element is triggered by an upward push on a slide positioned on the side of the case. Two hammers striking two gongs sound the hours, quarter hours and minutes. A flying tourbillon is revealed at 6 o’clock encircled by a small seconds disc. It’s limited to 100 pieces.


Diamond MasterGraff Tourbillon (top photo)
The mechanical movement of this 45mm watch has complications that include a tourbillion displayed at 9 o’clock. But really, this timepiece is about Graff’s diamond expertise. A total of 634 diamonds in 20 shapes weighing 47 carats were used to cover the watch. The dial features a radiating pattern of baguette cut diamonds, with the 120 hour power reserve displayed in emerald, yellow sapphire and ruby. Emeralds circle the dial, acting as hour markers. The case and strap are covered with more diamonds in Graff’s patented mosaic design, framed by diamond set lugs and baguette links. It’s limited to 30 pieces.

GraffStar Grand Date
The Graff Caliber 1 mechanical movement, made in Switzerland for Graff, powers this watch. Along with hours and minutes, the movement provides the date– shown in large numerals at 12 o’clock, the seconds on a sub-dial at 9 and a 50-hour power reserve indicator at 6. The DLC case (also available in white and rose gold) is faceted to appear as a single diamond with the lugs serving as prongs. The dial is in black guilloché with a multi-level design and gold indicators. It is limited to 100 pieces.

 

GraffStar Slim
The black dial set with a triangular emerald at 12 o’clock has gold hour markers set in gold. Inside the 43mm white gold case is the mechanical Graff Calibre 3 Swiss movement. The faceted case has a thickness of 6.35mm. It is also available in rose and with a white dial.

ChronoGraff 45mm
The black dial has a guilloché pattern that contrasts against gold disks that move to reveal each chronograph indicator and the 60 second dial. At 12 o’clock is a triangular emerald marker. It’s housed in Graff’s signature faceted case, available in various combinations of yellow gold, white gold and DLC. The dial also is available in white. It’s limited to 300 pieces.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.