Alex Soldier And His Sculptural Artistic Jewels

A mix of darken silver necklaces, brooches, earrings and cuffs from Alex Soldier’s Astra Collection

There always seem to be a place for those few who can create jewels using original techniques and artistic expressions.

Alex Soldier can certainly fit into this category. He prides himself on creating miniature sculptures using techniques that he personally developed. A recent tour of his Manhattan showroom jammed with his jewelry pieces and objects of art reveal that both types of items have this sculptural quality. Some his works are created separately in parts and then pieced together. There’s plenty of micro-quality work from pavé gem-setting to the carving of delicate lines into precious metals to give the piece a softer finish, resembling silk and cloth rather than hard metals. He will work with any and all types of metals and gems in multiple combinations.

Examples of butterflies by Alex Soldier

In terms of style, his work goes to a variety of places. He seems to prefer heavily faceted colored gems. He creates patterns with a variety of colorful pavé gems. His flowers often have movement. Everything he produces has a great level of detail and texture. When he’s not creating pieces encrusted with gems, he’s doing it with intricate lattice work, using space for texture and design.

An example of Alex Soldier's Snail Rings

One of his best-known pieces is his snails. Each snail is embroidered with an assortment of precious gems that form a unique color pattern. Every composition is further enhanced with final touches of fine texturing, hand-applied in several layers by Soldier.

Soldier doesn’t seem to have any present or past mentors in the art and jewelry field. What he considers his strongest influence is his native Russia, more specifically, the city of Perm in the remote Ural mountain region. It was there he says he was first influenced by the story of “Danila,”  who spent seven years to carve a flower out of malachite that was ideal in form and beauty. Russian themes are certainly represented in his objects of art.

Alex Soldier's Diamond Starfish

It was also there where he first worked as a jewelry designer in 1981, starting as an intern and six months later becoming the chief designer of the region’s largest jewelry plant.

When he arrived in the United States in 1990 he began working independently where he’s received a great of attention for his original methods of designing and producing contemporary jewelry in 18k gold and platinum with precious gemstones.

Alex Soldier's diamond-encrusted ring topped with a Tahitian black pearl 

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The Belperron Jewelry Revival Begins

Vintage Bamboo Necklace with Detachable Brooches in diamonds, platinum and gold

Suzanne Belperron (1900 – 1983) is considered by many to be one of the most influential jewelry designers of the 20th Century. Her complex, sculptural pieces—personally created for royalty, world-class entertainers and other notable persons from the 1930s to the 1970s—are highly sought among collectors throughout the world, particularly at auction. 

Now for the first time since her retirement in the 1970s new pieces designed by the French artist are available for purchase. In addition, there’s a new showroom in New York to view and purchase both the new collection of posthumous pieces and vintage original items. 

Wai Gu Necklace in nephrite jade and gold

The father and son team of Ward and Nico Landrigan are behind this rebirth of the artist and her brand. It’s something they’ve done before. In 1985, Ward, the former head of Sotheby’s US jewelry department, purchased the remains of the Verdura brand, founded by its creative namesake, Fulco di Verdura (1898 -1978), and with his son returned it to its original glory.

The Landrigans unveiled the Belperron showroom on Thursday. The private space is adjacent to the Verdura showroom, connected by a sliding door. Both are on the 12th floor of an office building on 5th Avenue in New York. 

Inside the Belperron salon during its public unveiling. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco 

In a brief conversation with Ward Landrigan during the showroom opening, he said the formula is the same as with Verdura. Find an undervalued jewelry brand with an impeccable heritage and a famous namesake, acquire it for the right price, and recreate the jewels and heritage. It sounds easy enough but it requires (among other things) great negotiating skills, strict budgeting (particularly for a small business owner) and lots of patience.

After nine years of negotiations with several persons who were unsuccessful in their own attempt to revive the brand, the Landrigans acquired the rights of Belperron in 1999 (or 1998 depending on who you consult) and spent another 16 years bringing the rebirth of the brand to its fruition. As with Verdura, the purchase included artifacts as well as thousands of original drawings by Suzanne Belperron. 

Vintage Godrons Heart Brooch in chalcedony, sapphire and diamonds

With the drawings the Landrigans (as they did with Verdura) began recreating Belperron jewelry using artisans specialized in specific jewelry making techniques, including Parisian workshops with a direct family line to Belperron’s original master craftsmen. 

Over the years, the Landrigans also purchased as much Belperron jewelry as they could through the auction market and private sales to augment the new pieces.

Vintage Torsade Necklace in gold and diamonds

The artistic jewels of Suzanne Belperron reflect a number of different influences. She first became known for her Art deco creations of the 1930s but eventually broke away from the rigid geometric aesthetic and began making jewels with Egyptian, Asian, African and Oceania influences. She was inspired by nature and created shapes based on flora and fauna, on land and below the sea. She was known for her elaborate color combinations and for setting precious stones in semiprecious materials. She also preferred working with 22k gold, despite its softness, because of its color. 

“She was a sculptress, with a gift for divining beautiful shapes,” says Nico Landrigan, who serves as Belperron president. “Belperron had an uncanny sense of texture, color and scale; she understood when to hold a line through the most torturous spiral and when to break it with the rogue placement of an errant gemstone.”

Vintage Tonneau Brooch in chalcedony, diamonds and lacquer

Belperron designed pieces specifically for each individual and hand-delivered them upon their completion. 

She did all of her business by appointment in her private salon in Paris. This leads to the final stage of recreating the Belperron brand.

The Landrigans and their team built a space inspired by the interior of Belperron’s salon. 

Scroll Clasp Necklace with Detachable Vintage Brooch in emeralds an diamonds

This is the third time I’ve seen this space. The first time it was under construction site preparing for the exhibition, “The Power of Style: Verdura at 75” in June 2014. The second time I saw it was at the end of 2014 when the exhibition space was completed. 

Now it has been converted into four comfortable rooms that include a library and a drawing room that captures the aesthetic of a 1930s Parisian apartment. The space features black lacquered trim, sable-colored cases, marble fireplaces and chalcedony blue walls. Couches and fabric-lined chairs of various colors from white to purple are among the antique or antique-styled furnishings in the space. 

Coquillage Earclips in diamonds, platinum and lacquer

The salon’s design came from Belperron’s archive of original gouache paintings, tracings and other archival materials, says project architect, Daniel Romualdez. “I wanted to create an environment that spoke to the elegance and glamour of this spectacular Fifth Avenue location while still evoking the intimate and private world of Suzanne Belperron in Paris of the 1930s.”

The jewelry collection on display includes recreated pieces from the archival drawings and the vintage items purchased by the Landrigans. They are for sale. There also are privately owned Belperron pieces on display that are not for sale. 

Spire pendant Earrings in gold

Among the highlights I saw were the Vintage Bamboo Necklace in diamond, platinum, gold and silver. The two leafy ends of the bamboo necklaces are detachable and can be worn as brooches. A Vintage Tonneau Brooch has the smoky glass appearance of Chalcedony, which seems to be a favorite material for the artist, studded with round diamonds and edges of black enamel. 

Like several of the great jewelry designers of the 20th Century, Belperron found artistic uses for many materials. She was unafraid to use jade as shown by a bold gold necklace lined with rings of nephrite jade. The Wave collection of cuffs and stackable bracelets are as contemporary today as when they were when she first created the design. 

Vintage Roof Cuff in rock crystal, emerald and diamonds

There’s at least one significant way the Belperron brand differs from Verdura. When the Verdura brand was released the Landrigans made a decision to augment its vintage jewels and one-of-a-kind and limited edition recreations, with more affordable recreations. For the first Belperron collection the lowest priced piece item I saw was $13,500, with many pieces well into six figures.

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Cambodian Cuff in Smoky Quartz

Two Auction Records Set At Sotheby’s Hong Kong Sale

The Jewel of Kashmir

The Jewel of Kashmir, a 27.68-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring, sold for more than $6.7 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale. The $242,145 per carat it fetched set a world auction record for the price per carat for a Kashmir sapphire.

Described as having a “cornflower blue” hue, the emerald-shaped gem was the top lot at Wednesday’s auction.

The Cowdray Pearls

The second highest lot in the auction, The Cowdray Pearls, sold for more than $5.2 million, a world auction record for a natural grey pearl necklace.

The necklace is composed of 42 graduated natural grey pearls, completed by a clasp set with a rectangular mixed-cut diamond, mounted in platinum, with maker’s mark JC. The necklace is accompanied by a pair of earrings, each set with a button-shaped natural grey pearl surrounded by single- and brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Cartier London.

Dowager Viscountess Harcourt Necklace

The historically significant Dowager Viscountess Harcourt Necklace was sold to Tiffany & Co for more than $1.5 million. The necklace incorporates diamonds from the French Crown Jewels, purchased by the American luxury jeweler at auction in 1887, which it later sold.

The necklace is set with 28 graduated old mine-cut diamonds together weighing approximately 65 carats, each surmounted by a pair of collet-set diamonds on a wire mounting, suspending from a necklace of scalloped links set with similarly-cut diamonds.

Statement colored gems, fancy colored diamonds, and being Hong Kong, jadeites were among the top lots—maintaining a trend established during the past few years. However, a large percentage of items did not sell. The sale took in $62.3 million, with 66.5 percent sold by lot and 67.7 percent sold by value.

Despite the low percentage of sales, Quek Chin Yeow, deputy chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and chairman of International Jewellery, Asia, said, “We are very much delighted with the results of this sale,” adding “there was broad-based participation by Asian privates along with international trade. The top 10 lots show a great variety ranging from colored stones, diamonds and pearls to jewels of aristocratic provenance, with colored diamonds selling well over their high estimates.

On Tuesday, A rare Patek Philippe yellow gold World Time Vintage wristwatch, Ref 2523/1, 1968, (pictured above) surpassed its high estimate to fetch $933,333 at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Important Watches sale.

It was the top lot of the sale which took in more than $13.7 million with 80.6 percent sold by lot and 84.7 percent sold by value. 

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Call For Entries For Monthly 3D Jewelry Design Competition

JewelryThis, a 3D jewelry design social marketplace and Solidscape, which makes and markets 3D printers, are sponsoring “The Spotlight is on You” 3D jewelry design competition. Each month there’s a different theme. Those who participate have the opportunity to have their design displayed at Baselword 2016.

I am happy to serve as one of three judges for the competition. This month’s theme is autumn and entries are due on October 15. Follow this link to read even more about the competition. 

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2015 JNA Awards Honors Leadership And Innovation

The JNA Awards, one of the world’s most prestigious honors in the gemstone and jewelry sector, celebrated enterprises and individuals whose ambitions have helped elevate the industry and inspired others. 

The top recipient this year was Ou Yang Chiu Mei, who received the Lifetime Achievement Award, JNA’s highest honor. This tribute is presented to individuals who have made exceptional contributions to the gemstone and jewelry industry.

Ou Yang is an internationally acclaimed gemologist and mineralogist whose research, scientific discoveries and knowledge application have contributed to the growth and development of the jadeite trade.

Her long list of accomplishments includes identifying a new mineral in the Burmese jadeite group, defining the official terminology for jade, identifying the presence of enhancement and treatment of jade in Hong Kong and producing a set of criteria for identifying and grading different jade types. Her passionate pursuit of knowledge has earned her the title “Jade Lady” among industry insiders.

Organized by the jewelry industry publication, JNA (Jewellery News Asia), the awards gala dinner was the centerpiece of a year-long effort to recognize individuals and companies that have distinguished themselves in the jewelry industry. The event—which included cocktails, dinner, speeches by industry leaders, entertainment and the award presentations—was attended by more than 500 industry stakeholders at the Regal Airport Hotel in Hong Kong, and was held on the sidelines of the world’s No. 1 fine jewelry B2B show, the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair.

The JNA Awards honors exceptional leadership and world-class innovation in the jewelry and gemstone industry. The 18 award recipients across 15 categories were:

1. 3 Decades of Excellence: Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Association
2. Brand of the Year – Retail: Chii Lih Coral Co Ltd
3. Employer of the Year: Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Co
4. Industry Innovation of the Year:
China Stone Co Ltd
Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd
Shenzhen United BlueOcean Technology Development Co Ltd
Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd
5. Manufacturer of the Year – Gemstone Cutting & Polishing: RMC Gems India Ltd
6. Manufacturer of the Year – Diamond Cutting & Polishing: Hari Krishna Exports Pvt Ltd
7. Manufacturer of the Year – Gem-Set Jewellery: Lorenzo Jewelry Ltd
8. Manufacturer of the Year – Precious Metals-Only Jewellery: Shenzhen Ganlu Jewelry Co Ltd
9. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – ASEAN Countries: PANDORA Production Co Ltd
10. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – India: J. B. And Brothers Pvt Ltd
11. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – Mainland China: Shenzhen Batar Investment
Holding Group Co Ltd
12. Retailer of the Year (450 outlets and below): Golden dew Co Ltd
13. E-tailer of the Year: KELA
14. Sustainability Initiative of the Year: Shenzhen Xingguangda Jewelry Industrial Co Ltd
15. Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 or below): Sit Kwan - Shenzhen Bofook Jewellery Co Ltd

“As you can imagine, going through the rigorous judging process and be named as one of our honorees is an outstanding achievement in itself,” said Letitia Chow, founder of JNA, director of Business Development – Jewellery Group at UBM Asia and chair of the JNA Awards judging panel. “Each year, the honorees demonstrate how we can do business in a smarter, more creative and efficient way. They refuse to be complacent by displaying great resilience and forward thinking, and embracing challenges with an open mind.”

She continued, “With the JNA Awards, we help create a new culture of encouragement, recognition and celebration rather than competition. Collectively, we can reach higher grounds, and we want the world to understand us–the jewelry industry–better.”

The fourth annual JNA Awards was supported by Headline Partners Rio Tinto Diamonds and Chow Tai Fook, together with Honoured Partners Diarough Group, Gübelin Group, Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies, Shanghai Diamond Exchange and Guangdong Land Holdings Ltd. 

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Tissot, NBA Sign Groundbreaking Marketing Deal

This NBA shot clock will soon include the Tissot logo

The National Basketball Association and Tissot announced Monday a new multiyear global partnership that makes the Swiss watch brand the first Official Timekeeper of the National Basketball Association, Women’s National Basketball Association, and the NBA Development League. 

This marks the first official timekeeping partnership for Tissot with a major North American sports league and the largest marketing partnership in the company’s 160-year history. With the agreement, Tissot adds to its portfolio of international sports and sporting event partnerships.  

The watch company will work with the NBA to develop a “state-of-the-art integrated timing system.” The new precision timekeeping system, inclusive of Tissot-branded shot clocks, will be implemented across all 29 NBA arenas beginning with the 2016-17 NBA season.  
As part of the agreement, Tissot receives global league licensing rights for timepieces, watches, clocks and watch accessories for all NBA teams. The company will provide support for the partnership at its retail stores around the world.

The partnership tips off this week during NBA Global Games 2015-16, which will feature six NBA teams playing seven regular-season and preseason games in six countries. Tissot will also become the Official Timekeeper and Official Watch of several marquee league events, including the NBA All-Star, NBA Draft presented by State Farm, Samsung NBA Summer League and NBA Global Games.  

In addition, Tissot will make investments across all NBA teams and league broadcast partners. Finally, Tissot and the NBA will partner on a global basis through events, marketing, media, and NBA-themed creative and advertising.  

Tissot is the top selling Swiss traditional watchmaker in terms of volume and is part of the Swatch Group—the the world’s largest watch producer and distributor. 

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Baume & Mercier Awards Elizabeth Holmes With A Classima Watch

Luxury Swiss watch brand, Baume & Mercier, brought its pedigree to the millennial crowd Monday as a sponsor of the Forbes Under 30 Summit held in Philadelphia.

Rudy Chavez, president of Baume & Mercier North America, presented a Classima stainless steel watch (pictured above) engraved with a congratulatory message to Elizabeth Holmes, who received the Forbes Under 30 “Doers Award.”

Holmes, 31, holds the distinction of being America’s richest self-made woman and youngest female billionaire. She is the CEO of Theranos, a $9 billion blood testing company that she founded in 2003 at age 19 while a chemical engineering major at Stanford University. She developed a method to provide blood testing at a fraction of the time and cost that US healthcare providers now do it. It’s predicted to change medical screening throughout the world.

“I recently became a grandfather and when I look at my granddaughter, I am motivated to remain healthy and aware of what may affect my future well being,” Chavez said while presenting the watch. “Elizabeth Holmes is making it possible for people like me to help detect a variety of medical conditions with a prick of the finger and a drop of blood.”

The presentation by Baume & Mercier serves as a way to introduce the world of Swiss luxury watches to young people. Classima is marketed as a way for millennials to celebrate their first success, such as graduating college or landing that first job.

To further the Classima message, in July, Baume & Mercier launched a social media contest asking young professionals to celebrate their achievements by sharing #MyMomentofSuccess on Baume & Mercier’s social channels. The grand prize went to Skyler McCurine, founder of Le Red Balloon, for conducting a TED talk about the power of selflessness, inner beauty and personal strength. McCurine was awarded a Classima watch and an invitation to the Forbes Under 30 Summit.

The watch brand also launched a video, screened at the summit, titled, “Celebrate Life’s First Successes with the Classima,” which shows a young man celebrating his first professional achievement by treating himself to a Classima watch. It also sponsored one of several dinners held in Philadelphia area restaurants for attendees.

In its fourth year, the Forbes Under 30 Summit provides a forum for more than 2,000 entrepreneurs, many among the most successful in the world. The summit, which opened Sunday, will run till October 7.

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