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Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Goshwara Strives for Perfection with its Colorful, Gemstone Jewelry

Emerald tassel earrings with diamonds and onyx Trim in 18k gold from the G-One collection.

Perfection is elusive and almost impossible to attain. But that doesn’t mean one shouldn’t strive for it. Goshwara was the term used to describe a perfect teardrop shape in the court of Persian and Indian kings and is still used among those who work in gem cutting and polishing factories. It is also the name of a young jewelry brand that specializes in colorful gemstone jewelry.

Blue topaz and peridot cab drop earrings with diamonds in 18k white gold from the Naughty collection.

Sweta Jain, the head designer for the New York-based company, was raised in the jewelry and gemstone business. Her father is a colored stone dealer and manufacturer and Sweta spent her childhood helping him wash and assort rough emeralds, visiting gem mines with him in Africa, and learning manufacturing techniques in cutting factories in Jaipur, India. This first-hand education gave her a well-rounded background in sourcing, cutting and polishing gems; and designing jewelry around the stones.

Large fluted bead necklaces with stone and gold rondels in 18k yellow gold from the Saffa collection.

This process of sourcing and polishing and then creating jewelry is difficult. Sourcing different types of gemstones involves working with dealers in various parts of the world. Cutting and polishing requires a different skill set and another group of companies to deal with. Then, one must work with jewelry designers and manufacturers to actually create the finished product. It’s an inefficient system that makes it difficult to control costs, quality and reliability.

Carved emerald ring with rubies and diamond in platinum from the One collection.

Goshwara is able to control much of this process through its parent company, Lush, also based in New York. Having a jewelry company in house with stone polishing and jewelry manufacturing capabilities has created an efficient operation in which Jain can design jewelry to better reflect her personal style and philosophy.

Blue Topaz and amethyst cushion bracelet with diamond toggle in 18k white gold from the Gossip collection.

“I always want colors to be the highlight of my jewelry; hence I create jewelry pieces that are simple in design, yet are bold and fun and make a fashion statement,” Jain says. “Above all I always want my jewelry to be comfortable.”

Peridot and rubelite necklace from the Beyond collection.

Mixing colors is certainly an important part of the design philosophy and using a variety of gemstones with different cuts and finishes brings a myriad of combinations. “I love to mix colors, and always feel that colors have the ability to change and reflect moods and highlight moments in an individual’s life,” Jain says.

Tumbled amethyst earrings in 18K gold from the Freedom collection.

The cutting and polishing skills are exceptional. Cabochons are polished to varying degrees of translucency or to varying degrees of darkness. Faceted gems sparkle. Emeralds and Mandarin garnet beads glitter.

Cabochon bracelet and amethyst rubelite with diamonds in 18k yellow gold from the Rock n Roll collection.

The combination of design skills and craftsmanship may not reach perfection, but it comes close.

Multi-disc chain necklace in 18k yellow gold from the Mischief collection.