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Tuesday, April 11, 2017

Colored Diamonds, Cartier Ruby Brooch Among Top Lots At Bonhams New York Auction

A fancy colored diamond and diamond ring is the top lot of Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry sale. The jewel is centered with a 6.32-carat European cut fancy vivid, yellow diamond set between two old mine cut diamonds. Its estimate is $400,000 - 600,000.

Referring to the old European cut of the diamond, Susan Abeles, director of US Jewelry at Bonhams, said: “This old fashioned cutting style, rarely found in today’s market, epitomizes old world charm, brilliance and, above all, depth of color,”

It one of two colored diamonds jewels that will lead the April 24 sale. The other is a fancy colored diamond and diamond necklace by William Goldberg.

The modern-design necklace is set with 17 cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamonds, weighing a total of 47.34 carats. Each yellow diamond is set within a round brilliant-cut diamond surround and enhanced by baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds. The central fancy yellow diamond weighs 5.02 carats and graded as internally flawless. Its estimate is $350,000 - $550,000.

The sale includes a variety of gems and jewels including signed pieces from Cartier, Verdura and René Boivin; statement sapphires and emeralds; and collectable items from the Art Deco period, the 1960s and 1970s.

While the colored diamond lots are expected to be the top earners, the most interesting pieces are the signed jewels, which showcase variety, colorful precious materials, fine design and craftsmanship. They cover a number of periods.

Perhaps the most notable signed piece is a fine ruby and diamond clip brooch by Cartier, circa 1935. It reflects the evolution of style from Art Deco to Art Moderne, Abeles said. “Gone are the strong, flat, colorful, geometric lines as these were replaced by the more sculptural aesthetic found in jewelry of the mid-1930s.”

The brooch is geometrically designed and centers on a 3.54-carat marquise mixed-cut Burmese unheated ruby. The central ruby has a pavé-set frame of baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds, further enhanced by round cabochon and sugarloaf rubies and accented with square step-cut diamonds. Its estimate is $300,000 - $400,000.

“From the mid-1930s Cartier created and sold predominantly sculptural, mono-chromatic and diamond jewelry. While gemstone preferences of sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, topaz and turquoise can be found, very few ruby examples exist,” Abeles said. “This particular clip brooch provides an elaborate, yet simple, showcase for an exquisite gemstone. The brooch is a real collector’s item given the Cartier name, the era and composition.”

Other signed jewels of note include:

An aquamarine and diamond “Feuille De Platane” brooch by René Boivin, circa 1950, featuring a 21.90-carat, heart-shaped aquamarine enhanced by textured gold leaves and adorned with old European-cut diamonds. Its estimate is $20,000 - $25,000.

A citrine and 14k rose gold brooch by Verdura, 1941, with an estimate of $5,000 - $7,000.

Original Blue Book Tiffany “Lily Of The Valley” designed by Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co., 1969. It is the original prototype for the 1969 Tiffany & Co. Blue Book brooch. The inspiration for this jewel comes from the French custom of giving Lily of the Valleys on the first of May to celebrate spring and as a good luck charm. The brooch is composed of eleven en tremblant lilies, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, to a gold stem with green enamel leaves. Its estimate is $5,000 - $7,000.

The oldest piece of jewelry being offered is an antique pair of emerald and gold earrings dating back to circa 1800, estimated at $3,000 - 5,000. 

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