Christie’s Offers 300 Vintage Patek Watches In Special Selling Exhibition

Patek Philippe. 18k white gold ref.5270G 

Christie’s will host what it calls a “once in a lifetime” opportunity to purchase Patek Philippe vintage watches from an expertly curated collection of approximately 300 Patek timepieces. The private selling exhibition opened moments ago and will run till July 23 at its Rockefeller Center headquarters in New York.

The watches are from the mid-19th century to the 20th century ranging in price from $5,000 to $5 million. It will include several models new to the market. They are from various sources around the world, with some purchased from Christie’s decades ago and others from the original owners or families.

Patek Philippe. 18k rose gold ref.533R, manufactured in 1942 and sold in 1943

The Christie’s selling exhibition coincides with the much publicized Patek Philippe “Art of Watches Grand Exhibition” that will take place at Cipriani 42nd Street on the same days. John Reardon, Christie’s international head of watches, said the timing is no mere coincidence.

“With thousands of Patek Philippe collectors and enthusiasts converging on New York in July, it is the perfect time to celebrate all things Patek Philippe and offer collectors the chance to see and purchase exceptional museum quality watches,” he said. “This exhibition offers buyers the opportunity to own a piece of Patek Philippe’s history at all price points.”

Patek Philippe. 18k rose gold ref.5020R, manufactured in 1995

Reardon said his favorite part of the exhibition is being able to present 20th Century Patek watches in a way that shows the development of key complications, beginning at the reference 130 moving onward to the 530, 533, 591, 1579, 1463 and the split seconds 1436.

For perpetual chronographs the exhibit includes four 1518s and then a range of 2499s with examples in each series, Reardon said. With calendars, the exhibit shows the development starting with two examples of early triple calendar 96s and moving on to the presentation of superlative examples of the 1526, 2497, 2438, 3448, and 3450.

Patek Philippe. 18k gold ref. 1463J, manufactured in 1946, sold in 1947

“The icing on the cake is the total production run of the minute repeaters highlighted by seven early minute repeating wristwatches and nearly the entire run of modern discontinued minute repeaters, many with unique variants,” he said.

There will also be educational components to the exhibition with guided tours, lectures and watchmaking seminars with the goal of helping watch connoisseurs to be better collectors.

Patek Philippe, Perpetual Calendar, ref. 2438 being sold on Christie's watches online. Estimate: $150,000 - $250,000

The watches will be on public view at Christie’s Rockefeller Plaza galleries, alongside a display of 85 Patek Philippe pieces to be sold in a dedicated online auction July 13 - 27.

To complement the pieces on sale, there will be more than 20 historically important and rare Patek Philippe watches on display, loaned from global private collections, including many rare models that the watch world has never seen before in public or in horological literature, the auction house said. These includes what are described as “unicorn watches,” such as a Patek Philippe two tone “Reverso” cased wristwatch, a 3448 in white gold case “Senza Luna” with a confirmed extract from Patek Philippe, and an exceptional collection of early Patek Philippe minute repeaters.

James Ward Packard Patek Philippe ring watch

Other items on display include James Ward Packard’s Patek Philippe Walking Stick and Patek Philippe ring watch on view for the first time publicly. The walking stick features a Patek Philippe watch embedded onto the silver knob with a movement that is engraved with Packard’s name. The ring also has a movement and case bearing James Ward Packard's name.

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‘Rockefeller Emerald’ Poised To Break Two World Auction Records

It has size, provenance and "exceptional" quality. Now the 18.4-carat “Rockefeller Emerald” is poised to set new world auction records for an emerald jewel and an emerald per carat.

The Colombian emerald set on a diamond and platinum ring by famed New York jeweler, Raymond C. Yard, will be the highlight of Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction on June 20. The gem, which passed through several members of the Rockefeller family, has a presale estimate of $4 million - $6 million.

It seems fitting that the sale will be held at Christie’s Rockefeller Center headquarters, named after the same family that owned the emerald ring.

The current world record for an emerald jewel and an emerald per carat is believed to be held by a 23.46-carat emerald and diamond pendant brooch by Bulgari, formerly owned by Elizabeth Taylor. It sold for more than $6.5 million ($280,000 per carat) in December 2011 as part of the landmark auctions of “The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor” at Christie’s New York.

If the emerald sells for its $6 million high estimate it will easily beat the current per-carat record. If it exceeds its high estimate it would likely surpass the overall record.

The emerald of Colombian origin was purchased in 1930 by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., the only son among the five children of Standard Oil co-founder John D. Rockefeller. It was part of a brooch believed to have been created by Van Cleef & Arpels for his wife, Abby Aldrich Rockefeller.

When Aldrich Rockefeller passed away in 1948, the brooch was disassembled and the 18.4-carat emerald was given to his son, David Rockefeller. The son then asked Yard to mount the gem on a ring.

Yard—the personal jeweler to several Rockefeller family members—created a classic and understated diamond and platinum setting for the gem. The ring is considered to be one of Yard’s most important private commissions, according to Christie’s.

Christie’s says the Colombian emerald is described by the American Gemological Laboratories as “exceptional,” and possesses what AGL calls an “unusual combination of size, provenance, absence of treatment and quality factors [that contribute] favorably to its rarity and desirability.”

“Due to its rarity, an emerald of this quality and significant weight is not readily found in the market, and it is ranked at the top of its class,” Christie’s added in a statement. “Though it has passed on to other hands, this superb Colombian emerald still embodies the grandeur of the Rockefeller family name.”

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Colored Diamonds, Cartier Ruby Brooch Among Top Lots At Bonhams New York Auction

A fancy colored diamond and diamond ring is the top lot of Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry sale. The jewel is centered with a 6.32-carat European cut fancy vivid, yellow diamond set between two old mine cut diamonds. Its estimate is $400,000 - 600,000.

Referring to the old European cut of the diamond, Susan Abeles, director of US Jewelry at Bonhams, said: “This old fashioned cutting style, rarely found in today’s market, epitomizes old world charm, brilliance and, above all, depth of color,”

It one of two colored diamonds jewels that will lead the April 24 sale. The other is a fancy colored diamond and diamond necklace by William Goldberg.

The modern-design necklace is set with 17 cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamonds, weighing a total of 47.34 carats. Each yellow diamond is set within a round brilliant-cut diamond surround and enhanced by baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds. The central fancy yellow diamond weighs 5.02 carats and graded as internally flawless. Its estimate is $350,000 - $550,000.

The sale includes a variety of gems and jewels including signed pieces from Cartier, Verdura and René Boivin; statement sapphires and emeralds; and collectable items from the Art Deco period, the 1960s and 1970s.

While the colored diamond lots are expected to be the top earners, the most interesting pieces are the signed jewels, which showcase variety, colorful precious materials, fine design and craftsmanship. They cover a number of periods.

Perhaps the most notable signed piece is a fine ruby and diamond clip brooch by Cartier, circa 1935. It reflects the evolution of style from Art Deco to Art Moderne, Abeles said. “Gone are the strong, flat, colorful, geometric lines as these were replaced by the more sculptural aesthetic found in jewelry of the mid-1930s.”

The brooch is geometrically designed and centers on a 3.54-carat marquise mixed-cut Burmese unheated ruby. The central ruby has a pavé-set frame of baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds, further enhanced by round cabochon and sugarloaf rubies and accented with square step-cut diamonds. Its estimate is $300,000 - $400,000.

“From the mid-1930s Cartier created and sold predominantly sculptural, mono-chromatic and diamond jewelry. While gemstone preferences of sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, topaz and turquoise can be found, very few ruby examples exist,” Abeles said. “This particular clip brooch provides an elaborate, yet simple, showcase for an exquisite gemstone. The brooch is a real collector’s item given the Cartier name, the era and composition.”

Other signed jewels of note include:

An aquamarine and diamond “Feuille De Platane” brooch by René Boivin, circa 1950, featuring a 21.90-carat, heart-shaped aquamarine enhanced by textured gold leaves and adorned with old European-cut diamonds. Its estimate is $20,000 - $25,000.

A citrine and 14k rose gold brooch by Verdura, 1941, with an estimate of $5,000 - $7,000.

Original Blue Book Tiffany “Lily Of The Valley” designed by Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co., 1969. It is the original prototype for the 1969 Tiffany & Co. Blue Book brooch. The inspiration for this jewel comes from the French custom of giving Lily of the Valleys on the first of May to celebrate spring and as a good luck charm. The brooch is composed of eleven en tremblant lilies, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, to a gold stem with green enamel leaves. Its estimate is $5,000 - $7,000.

The oldest piece of jewelry being offered is an antique pair of emerald and gold earrings dating back to circa 1800, estimated at $3,000 - 5,000. 

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Four Watches Found In Vault After 40 Years Being Sold At Charity Auction

Patek Philippe Ref. 3514 18k gold automatic watch. Photo by Heritage Auctions

Four watches forgotten in a vault owned by the Horological Society of New York for 40 years have been rediscovered and are now being sold at a charity auction. 

Bidding for the four timepieces has already begun online on the Heritage Auctions website, which is partnering with HSNY for the auction. Final bids will be conducted live during the HSNY’s 151st annual Gala & Charity Auction, being held April 3 at the General Society Library in New York. 

The four watches are: a Patek Philippe Ref. 3514 18k gold automatic watch; an Audemars Piguet 18k gold ultra-thin pocket watch Signed Tiffany & Co., circa 1959; an Audemars Piguet 18k Gold Square watch, Ref. 5128BA, signed Tiffany & Co. circa 1960; and a Piaget $20 Saint Gaudens Gold Coin Pocket Watch signed Cartier. There’s also an enamel HSNY pin that was not in the vault with the four timepieces but is one of the few remaining vintage enamel pins from the society.

They are expected to fetch $10,000 with proceeds going toward HSNY's educational programs and endowment fund.

HSNY said the board “rediscovered” these watches and decided to use them to fund a new annual charity auction tradition. 

“It’s a remarkable find,” said Michael Fossner, Heritage Auctions watch expert. “These great watches … were of modest value when donated to the Society, where they were consigned to a vault and forgotten, oblivious to the skyrocketing market outside.” 

All five items are offered without a buyer’s premium and online bidding will take place until the day of the HSNY’s gala and charity auction. The auction will conclude with final bidding commencing live during the Gala, which begins at 6 p.m. 

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Ritani Names Deborah Fine As New CEO

Ritani, a designer and manufacturer of engagement rings and fine jewelry with a vertically integrated, omnichannel sales model, has hired Deborah Fine as its chief executive officer. Fine, a veteran omnichannel executive, begins immediately and will split her time between Ritani’s Seattle and New York operation centers.

Fine replaces Brian Watkins who left Ritani in July, 2016, for what was reportedly described as personal reasons. 

Omnichannel relates to a type of retail that integrates different methods of shopping available to consumers, such as online and through a physical store.

Fine’s career transcends several industries, including consumer retail, fashion and beauty, lifestyle and media. She was previously the CEO of Direct Brands, the largest member- based retailer of media products in the U.S. president of iVillage, an NBC Universal company that was the first and largest media company dedicated to women online, CEO of Victoria’s Secret PINK, founder and president of Avon Mark Cosmetics, VP and publisher of Glamour magazine and publisher of Brides magazine.

“Deborah has demonstrated an impressive track record of leading best in class retail and media businesses and delivering significant results. Her experience and vision will help propel the growth strategy of the Ritani brand, as it seeks to gain market share in the omnichannel fine jewelry market,” said Henrique de Castro, head of Cantor Ventures, an investor in Ritani.

“I’m excited to join Ritani and lead the business in its next stage of development,” Fine said. “Ritani was the first to launch a true ‘clicks and bricks’ model in the category … Ritani’s legacy of craftsmanship, business model innovation, and the ability for consumers to design their own merchandise are strong pillars for growth. I look forward to working with the team here to continue to innovate and increase our market share across all relevant categories.”

Ritani designs and manufacturers bridal and fine jewelry and distributes its product through a network of 250 independent retailers through a “clicks-and-bricks” approach, where consumers can design their own engagement ring online and then have the ring shipped to a nearby jewelry store to preview in person. 

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TEFAF New York Fall Features Contemporary, Vintage and Period High Jewels

“Stilled Life,” brooch by Wallace Chan depicts a cicada made primarily of imperial quality green jade. Its wings are made of wafer-thin green jade and its hands clutch a cabochon lavender jade

The inaugural TEFAF New York Fall art fair opens today (Friday) with a preview starting at 5 p.m. at the Park Avenue Armory that will benefit The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering. The fair will officially to the general public Saturday and run till October 26.

TEFAF (The European Fine Art Fair) is an offshoot of the famed annual event TEFAF in Maastricht, Netherlands, and the first time the organization is holding its fair outside Europe. Participating dealers were selected by a committee comprising four members of the TEFAF New York Board members and four external US art experts. 

Among the 94 dealers of fine art, design and furniture will be at least 10 high jewelry artists and dealers exhibiting masterpieces in contemporary, antique and period jewels.

Perhaps the most anticipated of the contemporary jewelry artists is Wallace Chan. The Hong Kong-based jeweler is known for his imaginative jewelry designs, groundbreaking gem sculpting techniques and the spectacular prices his creations reportedly earn (even though he never discusses price). Among the pieces he will be showing this year are two sculptured bejeweled brooches.

The first, “Stilled Life,” depicts a cicada made primarily of imperial quality green jade. Its wings are made of wafer-thin green jade and its hands clutch a cabochon lavender jade. Jade beads throughout the piece are embedded using the tenon-and-mortise technique. The overwhelming green of the cicada is the result of Wallace Chan’s jade-thinning-and-luminosity-enhancing invention that he patented in 2002. Pigeon blood ruby eyes provide the finishing touch. 

The piece is billed as a brooch and sculpture. When not worn it comes with a bamboo sculpture of crystal, yellow diamond, pink sapphire, diamond and tsavorite garnet that serves as a base for the winged insect. 

Aspara by Wallace Chan

The second piece is Apsara, Chan’s interpretation of the nymph’s ethereal and artistic qualities that include a body tattooed with cloud-and-water motifs and her gemstone-embellished ribbon resembling trails of stars. In her outstretched hands is a 4.04-carat fancy intense yellow diamond. Other gems include emerald, pink, yellow and green diamonds and crystal.

Emerald and diamond long earrings by Reza

Place Vendôme high jeweler, Reza, is set to unveil a number of high jewelry contemporary works. The centerpiece is a new series of jewelry with gem quality pigeon blood untreated cabochon rubies, richly chromatic and architectural in design. 

Earrings made of jade, diamonds, bronze and white gold by Hemmerle

In addition, there will be two high jewelers from Germany: Hemmerle and Otto Jakob. The first is known for creating colorful, refined artistic jewelry creations using unusual materials such as aluminum and wood. The second specializes in highly detailed and elaborate Renaissance-inspired pieces made of rare and natural materials.

There will be a number of dealers who specialize in antique, vintage and period jewelry and watches. 

Fighting Cock brooches by Cartier made of gold and various gems, 1945, being exhibited by Wartski

Among them is Wartski, the 151-year-old London antique dealer perhaps best known for its “royal warrant of appointment,” as one of a handful of jewelers that supply goods and services to the British royal family. Geoffrey Munn, managing director, is one of Britain’s foremost authorities on antique jewelry with a particular emphasis on 19th-century precious metalwork and Fabergé. The firm is bringing jewels ranging from a 17th Century talisman object to contemporary works from Parisian jeweler, Cartier, and U.S. designer, Tony Duquette. 

The Cole Porter diamond and ruby necklace designed by Fulco, di Verdura, for Paul Flato. It is being exhibited by Siegelson

New York-based Siegelson will be exhibiting a number of pieces including items from Jean Fouquet and Cartier. One highlight is the Cole Porter diamond necklace created by Fulco di Verdura for Paul Flato that simulates a belt with a buckle.

Gold, enamel and diamond Orchid brooch by Paulding Farnham for'Tiffany & Co' New York, 1890 being exhibited by Véronique Bamps

Monaco-based Véronique Bamps specializes in European and American jewelry dating from the early 19th century to the 1950s. She will bring a range of collectible pieces, including a late 19th Century gold, enamel and diamond brooch by Tiffany & Co; as well as jewels from Cartier, René Boivin and Van Cleef & Arpels. 

Diamond and platinum ring by Suzanne Belperron, circa 1930, being exhibited by SJ Shrubsole 

Among the jewelry pieces being shown by New York-based Primavera Gallery is a Victorian ring for Queen Mary of Scots. SJ Shrubsole, also in New York, will showcase a diamond and platinum ring by Suzanne Belperron. From the Netherlands is A. Aardewerk Antiquair Juwelier.  

In addition to jewelry, exhibitors will present works across multiple collecting areas including furniture, art and interior design. It also includes at decoration, ceramics, glass, silver, textiles, tapestries, antiquities, paintings, sculptures, books, manuscripts, autographs, arms and armor, Tribal, Oceanic and Ethnographic Art, Asian Art and Fabergé.

The New York Fall fair is a joint venture between TEFAF and the art investment advisory firm, Artvest Partners. 

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Maye Musk Wears Alex Soldier At New York Fashion Events

Maye Musk at the Fragrance Foundation Awards wearing Alex Soldier Astra jewels

Model, author and wellness speaker, Maye Musk, wore Alex Soldier jewelry at the recently held 2016 CFDA Awards and Fragrance Foundation Awards. 

For the CFDA (Council of Fashion designers of America), Maye chose gold bangles finished with Alex Soldier's signature proprietary metalwork that creates an illusion of a diamond inlay. At the Fragrance Foundation Awards, she wore earrings and ring, paired with a stingray cuff from Alex Soldier's Astra collection. 

Maye Musk at the CFDA Awards wearing Alex Soldier bangles

Handmade in NYC, Alex Soldier jewelry is available at the company’s Alex Soldier Times Square boutique, as well as select Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide. 

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$29 Million Estimate For 24-Carat Blue Diamond At Christie’s

It’s just another jewelry auction that features another superb blue diamond.

This time it’s the “Cullinan Dream,” the largest fancy intense blue diamond ever offered at auction. It is the lead item at Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale on June 9 with an estimate of $23 - $29 million.

The 24.18-carat cut-cornered rectangular mixed-cut gem is set on a platinum ring flanked with classic baguette-cut diamonds. It is nearly 10 carats larger than the “Oppenheimer Blue,” which sold for a world auction record of $57.5 million and is currently the largest blue diamond ever sold at auction.

The Cullinan Dream has a VS2 clarity grade (very slightly included with inclusions observed with effort under 10x magnification), two grades below flawless.

The Cullinan Dream is the largest of four blue diamonds cut from a 122.52-carat rough diamond discovered in 2014 at the legendary Cullinan mine, famous for yielding the 530.20 Cullinan I, the largest polished white diamond in existence and is part of the British Crown Jewels housed in the Tower of London.

In recent years, the Cullinan mine has been associated with some of the most significant blue and pink diamonds to come to market, including the 10.1-carat “De Beers Millennium Jewel 4,” that sold for $31.8 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in Spril; and the 12.03-carat “Blue Moon” that sold for $48.4 million at Sotheby’s Geneva in November 2015, the second largest amount ever for a diamond at auction.

The Cullinan Dream is the top item in the 260 lots on offer at Christie’s New York sale. It includes fancy colored and colorless diamonds; colored gemstones; natural pearls; and signed jewels from Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Graff, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels. 

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Statement Colored Gems Up For Auction This Week In New York

The 9.54-carat Shirley Temple Blue Diamond

Following the $32 million sale of the De Beers Millennium Blue at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in April, blue diamonds continue to be in high demand at international auction houses around the world. However, blue isn’t alone as statement pink and yellow diamonds as well as sapphires and rubies are commanding lofty prices. 

The upcoming auctions in New York this week by Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Bonhams will be presenting plenty of colorful stones to meet this demand. 

The most anticipated lot is the 9.54-carat Shirley Temple Blue Diamond that will be placed on the block Tuesday at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale. The Fancy Deep Blue, Potentially Internally Flawless, VVS2 clarity diamond ring was owned by the child actress and American diplomat throughout her life. It has an estimate of $25 - $35 million. Her father purchased the ring in early 1940 around the time of her 12th birthday for $7,210.

The auction of more than 300 pieces also has other colorful delights, including a platinum ring set with a 12.45-carat cushion modified brilliant-cut Fancy Purplish Pink diamond with Natural Color, VS2 clarity, with an estimate of $3 - $5 million; and a 30.81-carat pear-shaped Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond with Natural Color and VS2 clarity with an of $1 - $1.5 million.

The 15.99-carat Jubilee Ruby

Meanwhile, Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale Wednesday will feature the Jubilee Ruby, a 15.99-carat oval-shaped Burmese ruby set on a platinum and 18k gold ring designed by Verdura. The gem is surrounded by circular-cut diamonds. Its estimate is $12 - $15 million.

“Top quality Burmese rubies of over 15 carats are an absolute rarity in the world of colored gemstones,” said Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s International head of Jewelry. 

Other statement colored gems among the more than 250 lots on sale include a 10.07-carat Fancy Intense Purple-Pink diamond ring with an estimate of $8 - $12 million; and a 54.62-carat rectangular modified cut Fancy Vivid yellow diamond with an estimate of $1.5 - $2.5 million. 

The three days of auctions begins Monday (today) at Bonhams New York with a sale of more than 100 lots of jewels including three Kashmir sapphires and other examples of Burmese and Ceylon sapphires.

8.07-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring 

The top lot is an 8.07-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring with an estimate of $400,000 – 600,000. It is believed that Bernard Golson (1879-1983), who often worked for foreign governments on special projects, bought the sapphire ring for his wife in the early 1920’s. Golson is known to have worked with the Guggenheims and aided U.S. authorities in the pursuit of Pancho Villa. This lead to his family being chased out of Mexico by Villa, losing their belongings and having to sew family heirlooms into their clothes during their escape to the United States. 

I plan to be covering the late sessions of the Sotheby's and Christie's auctions on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet

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Eight ‘Protagonists’ Honored As Jewelers And Artists

The statuette by Alex Soldier consists of 35 separate parts of gold and platinum with rubies, sapphires, diamonds and pearls. A removable ruby ring completes the work. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Eight US jewelers were honored by an Italian publication for their uncompromising vision Monday while they showed their jewels during a special event at Bonhams New York.

They were selected by the Italian jewelry publication, Vogue Gioiello, in its annual listing of “US Protagonists,” described as being “the best contemporary fine jewelry designers in the US.” The idea is to give these US-based artists international attention.

Maria Soldier wears Alex Soldier’s Anemone Coronaria (crown) brooches during the “US Protagonists” event at Bonhams New York. Photo by Anthony DeMarco 

The eight U.S. “protagonists” for this year are: Alex Soldier, Alexandra Mor, Heidi Gardner NYC, Hoorsenbuhs, K. Brunini Jewels, Suzanne Kalan, Sylva & Cie and Temple St. Clair.

Approximately 350 jewelry lovers and media representatives attended the event in which each jeweler showed their work in display cases. Since nearly all of the designers were in attendance, people were able to talk with them as well try on and buy their jewels.

Alexandra Mor and her jewels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Susan Abeles, Bonhams director of US Jewelry, in her welcoming remarks, stressed that the pieces on display are wearable and collectible art.

“These are jewelers of the 21st Century,” she said. “It’s your responsibility to meet them, to hear their story, to find their inspiration, and to touch the jewelry—pick it up, try it on. To understand what the artist was trying to do…. Pick out what you like. There’s something in every taste and for everyone.”

There certainly was something for everyone as each designer showcased their independent, artistic flair.

Alex Soldier pearl ring. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

For example, Alex Soldier specializes in several techniques, including those he created, and combines them in jewelry of differing textures and forms. One of his specialties is using casting techniques to create sculptural pieces made of many separate parts. In fact, in addition to jewels, Soldier is known for his sculptural objets d'art.

Rare amatrin gem (which combines the colors of amethyst and citrine) on a ring flanked by two amethysts by Alexandra Mor. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Alexandra Mor creates elegant, well-crafted pieces with signature characteristics such as the use of large colored gemstones, “floating” diamond melee and knife-edge wire trim. Out of this group, she is perhaps the best at incorporating her work and her persona into her brand.

Wrap your wrist with a woman’s pelvic bone. 18K Gold Plated Brass with five orange sapphires by Heidi Gardner NYC. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Heidi Gardner describes her work as “dangerous and delicate” and for good reason. She specializes in jewels that depict skeletal structures—such as spines, pelvises and (of course) skulls—of humans and all sorts of animals whether they walk, swim or fly. Somehow she manages to make her silver and gold-plated brass pieces to appear playful and even beautiful.

Katey Brunini wearing her large flower brooches made of cow bones. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Katey Brunini of K. Brunini Jewels is artistic, innovative and endlessly creative, taking inspiration from the primitive to the modern and using materials one would not associate with jewelry making, such as cow bones, which she fashioned into large, milky white flower brooches that she wore at the event.

Tree of Life pendant by Temple St. Clair. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Temple St. Clair has been a leader in the fine jewelry industry for many years, known for her signature gold pieces with colored gems and design influences from her travels around the world. All of her jewels are handmade in Florence by traditional goldsmiths. Last year she introduced a couture line of nine one-of-a-kind pieces. Those works were not at the event as she chose to show some of her signature pieces.

Ancient coin necklace with handmade beads By Sylva & Cie. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Sylva & Cie was one of the biggest surprises for me at the event. I never saw its pieces in person or met its founder and designer, Sylva Yepremian. She creates high quality fine jewels but the most interesting items for me were jewels that combine new materials with vintage and period items, such as antique coins and glass beads, into one-of-a-kind pieces.

Patile Kalandjian wears diamond and gold choker by Suzanne Kalan. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Suzanne Kalan, whose jewels are designed by Suzanne and her daughter, Patile, are well known for their “Fireworks” collection, which features baguette-cut diamonds placed in clusters and rows and other untraditional ways that appear like firecrackers.

Long, flowing linked gold chain by Hoorsenbuhs. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Hoorsenbuhs, founded by self-taught designer Robert Keith in 2005, specializes in fashion-forward hand-made luxury gold jewels. The company is best-known for its tri-link rings and its partnerships with a number of celebrities.

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7.8-Carat Tiffany Kashmir Sapphire Fetches $1.35M At Bonhams

A sapphire and diamond ring set a world auction record for a Kashmir sapphire under 10 carats, fetching $1.35 million at Bonhams New York’s Fine Jewelry auction Tuesday.

The turn-of-the-century Tiffany & Co. ring is centered by an oval-cut sapphire the auction house describes as “rare quality” and a “deep and rich blue.” It’s flanked by European-cut diamonds weighing 7.84 carats. It sold for $172,000 per carat.

“On the heels of three world-records at our recent Bonhams London jewelry sale, Bonhams New York sets another world-record in price per carat for a Kashmir sapphire under 10 carat,” said Daniel Struyf, senior director of International Jewelry. “It’s been a successful week for Bonhams’ international jewelry department and a sign that colored gemstones are on the rise.”

Sapphires of Kashmir and Ceylon origin were quite popular at the sale, which represents the final jewelry auction for the fall season and for the year at Bonhams. Other top lots include:

* Sapphire and diamond ring: centered by a 29.74-carat cushion-shaped sapphire of Ceylon origin (pictured above), sold for $269,000.

* Sapphire and diamond ring: centered by an oval-cut sapphire of 5.23 carats of Kashmir origin (pictured above), sold for $269,000 

* A sapphire and diamond ring centered by a 24.16-carat sapphire of Ceylon origin, sold for $125,000. 

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