3-Carat Fancy Blue Diamond To Be Featured At Heritage Auctions Jewelry Sale

A 3.23-carat natural fancy blue diamond is one of the top attractions of Heritage Auctions Beverly Hills Fine Jewelry sale on September 25. 

The gem with an SI2 clarity grade is set on a platinum ring flanked by two round white diamonds and has a pre-sale estimate of $900,000 to $1.2 million. 

The fancy blue diamond is one of a trio of gems being featured at the September 25 auction. The others are: 

* A 5.04-carat cushion-shaped fancy intense purplish-pink diamond mounted on a platinum ring and flanked by bullet-shaped diamonds. Its estimate is $100 - $150,000.

* A 10.45-carat oval modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamond measuring mounted on 18k gold, flanked by triangle-shaped diamonds weighing a total of approximately 1.00 carat. Its estimate is $40,000 to $70,000. 

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TEFAF New York Fall Features Contemporary, Vintage and Period High Jewels

“Stilled Life,” brooch by Wallace Chan depicts a cicada made primarily of imperial quality green jade. Its wings are made of wafer-thin green jade and its hands clutch a cabochon lavender jade

The inaugural TEFAF New York Fall art fair opens today (Friday) with a preview starting at 5 p.m. at the Park Avenue Armory that will benefit The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering. The fair will officially to the general public Saturday and run till October 26.

TEFAF (The European Fine Art Fair) is an offshoot of the famed annual event TEFAF in Maastricht, Netherlands, and the first time the organization is holding its fair outside Europe. Participating dealers were selected by a committee comprising four members of the TEFAF New York Board members and four external US art experts. 

Among the 94 dealers of fine art, design and furniture will be at least 10 high jewelry artists and dealers exhibiting masterpieces in contemporary, antique and period jewels.

Perhaps the most anticipated of the contemporary jewelry artists is Wallace Chan. The Hong Kong-based jeweler is known for his imaginative jewelry designs, groundbreaking gem sculpting techniques and the spectacular prices his creations reportedly earn (even though he never discusses price). Among the pieces he will be showing this year are two sculptured bejeweled brooches.

The first, “Stilled Life,” depicts a cicada made primarily of imperial quality green jade. Its wings are made of wafer-thin green jade and its hands clutch a cabochon lavender jade. Jade beads throughout the piece are embedded using the tenon-and-mortise technique. The overwhelming green of the cicada is the result of Wallace Chan’s jade-thinning-and-luminosity-enhancing invention that he patented in 2002. Pigeon blood ruby eyes provide the finishing touch. 

The piece is billed as a brooch and sculpture. When not worn it comes with a bamboo sculpture of crystal, yellow diamond, pink sapphire, diamond and tsavorite garnet that serves as a base for the winged insect. 

Aspara by Wallace Chan

The second piece is Apsara, Chan’s interpretation of the nymph’s ethereal and artistic qualities that include a body tattooed with cloud-and-water motifs and her gemstone-embellished ribbon resembling trails of stars. In her outstretched hands is a 4.04-carat fancy intense yellow diamond. Other gems include emerald, pink, yellow and green diamonds and crystal.

Emerald and diamond long earrings by Reza

Place Vendôme high jeweler, Reza, is set to unveil a number of high jewelry contemporary works. The centerpiece is a new series of jewelry with gem quality pigeon blood untreated cabochon rubies, richly chromatic and architectural in design. 

Earrings made of jade, diamonds, bronze and white gold by Hemmerle

In addition, there will be two high jewelers from Germany: Hemmerle and Otto Jakob. The first is known for creating colorful, refined artistic jewelry creations using unusual materials such as aluminum and wood. The second specializes in highly detailed and elaborate Renaissance-inspired pieces made of rare and natural materials.

There will be a number of dealers who specialize in antique, vintage and period jewelry and watches. 

Fighting Cock brooches by Cartier made of gold and various gems, 1945, being exhibited by Wartski

Among them is Wartski, the 151-year-old London antique dealer perhaps best known for its “royal warrant of appointment,” as one of a handful of jewelers that supply goods and services to the British royal family. Geoffrey Munn, managing director, is one of Britain’s foremost authorities on antique jewelry with a particular emphasis on 19th-century precious metalwork and Fabergé. The firm is bringing jewels ranging from a 17th Century talisman object to contemporary works from Parisian jeweler, Cartier, and U.S. designer, Tony Duquette. 

The Cole Porter diamond and ruby necklace designed by Fulco, di Verdura, for Paul Flato. It is being exhibited by Siegelson

New York-based Siegelson will be exhibiting a number of pieces including items from Jean Fouquet and Cartier. One highlight is the Cole Porter diamond necklace created by Fulco di Verdura for Paul Flato that simulates a belt with a buckle.

Gold, enamel and diamond Orchid brooch by Paulding Farnham for'Tiffany & Co' New York, 1890 being exhibited by Véronique Bamps

Monaco-based Véronique Bamps specializes in European and American jewelry dating from the early 19th century to the 1950s. She will bring a range of collectible pieces, including a late 19th Century gold, enamel and diamond brooch by Tiffany & Co; as well as jewels from Cartier, René Boivin and Van Cleef & Arpels. 

Diamond and platinum ring by Suzanne Belperron, circa 1930, being exhibited by SJ Shrubsole 

Among the jewelry pieces being shown by New York-based Primavera Gallery is a Victorian ring for Queen Mary of Scots. SJ Shrubsole, also in New York, will showcase a diamond and platinum ring by Suzanne Belperron. From the Netherlands is A. Aardewerk Antiquair Juwelier.  

In addition to jewelry, exhibitors will present works across multiple collecting areas including furniture, art and interior design. It also includes at decoration, ceramics, glass, silver, textiles, tapestries, antiquities, paintings, sculptures, books, manuscripts, autographs, arms and armor, Tribal, Oceanic and Ethnographic Art, Asian Art and Fabergé.

The New York Fall fair is a joint venture between TEFAF and the art investment advisory firm, Artvest Partners. 

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Verdura Cuff For Coco Chanel Sells For $100,000 At Christie’s

One of Fulco di Verdura’s earliest jewelry works for the famed fashion designer, Coco Chanel, was sold at Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale Thursday. The buyer was the Verdura brand.

The cuff, made circa 1935, was part of the the collection of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. The New York-based jewelry brand, Verdura, said it purchased the bangle for $100,000, nearly three times its high estimate of $35,000. 

The cream colored enamel hinged bangle is set at the top with cabochon red and green simulated gemstones, accented on either side by a line of graduated caliber-cut green simulated gemstones, to the rectangular-cut blue simulated gemstones. The silver jewel was unsigned. However, the gem “is accompanied by a letter from Verdura confirming that in their opinion, the cuff bracelet was made from a design by Duke Fulco di Verdura for his friend Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel.”

Verdura said in a statement that the newly acquired cuff be part of the Verdura Museum Collection. It will join Chanel’s original “Maltese Cross” Cuffs, circa 1930, made by the influential jewelry designer for Coco Chanel, which are already part of the collection.

“It’s an early and important example of Duke Fulco di Verdura’s design influence on one of the 20th Century’s most iconic couturiers,” said Nico Landrigan, president of Verdura. “Coco Chanel looked to Fulco for great design in jewelry and this is an important example of their collaboration.”

The brand Verdura, purchased the Verdura business, including all of the artist’s drawings, in 1985 and has since been collecting and selling original Verdura pieces and creating and selling new pieces based on the original drawings under the Verdura name. 

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5-Carat Green Diamond Sets New Auction Records

The “Aurora Green,” a 5.03-carat rectangular-cut fancy vivid green diamond smashed auction records Tuesday at Christie’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels sale. 

The green diamond, with VS2 clarity mounted on a gold ring surrounded by circular-cut pink diamonds, sold for $16.8 million and for more than $3.3 million per carat, both world auction records. 

The diamond was purchased by Hong Kong-based by Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Co LTD, one of the largest jewelry retailers in the world. 

Despite the price being at the low end of its estimate, the diamond shattered the previous records for a green diamond, which was set earlier this month for “The Ocean Dream,” a 5.5-carat fancy vivid blue-green diamond that sold for $8.6 million ($1.5 million per carat).

The Aurora Green was the top lot of the sale and one of four lots that set world auction records. The sale totaled more than $85 million with 10 lots exceeding more than $1 million. Colored diamonds, colored gems, jadeite and white diamond were among the top lots. A total of 72 percent of items were sold by lot and 73 percent by value.

The sale attracted 197 buyers from 19 countries across five continents.

The three other items that set auction records are as follows:

* Burmese oval-shaped ruby ear pendants of 10.02 and 9.09 carets by Etcetera sold for $11.6 million ($607,053 per caret), a world auction record for a pair of ruby earrings. 

* An Art Deco sapphire and diamond bracelet by Cartier sold for $7.2 million, a world auction record for a bracelet.

* A multi-gem pendant necklace by Wallace Chan sold for $967,164, a world auction record for a jewel by Wallace Chan. 

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Cartier Necklace Could Fetch $60,000 At Bidsquare Online Jewelry Auction

Cartier bib necklace with moonstone, diamonds, and sapphire

Signed jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Hermes, Chanel, Tiffany and David Webb are among the items that will be presented at a live online auction Tuesday hosted by Bidsquare. 

The "Spring Jewels: Fine Estate & Signed Jewelry" sale is by Fortuna Auction, a New York-based auction house, but registration and bidding can be done online through Bidsquare, a New York-based online auction site. 

A total of 397 lots will be presented with the top lot being a Cartier bib necklace with moonstone, diamonds, and sapphire (top photo). This has an estimate of $50,000 - $60,000 with an opening bid set at $45,000. 
   

But it is far from the only quality item in this diverse selection of jewels. For example, natural pearls are among the hottest items at auction in recent years and this sale features a 14.90-carat beauty that measures 14.20" x 11.13" (with SSEF certificate) set in a platinum and diamond ring (pictured above). Its estimate is $40,000 - $50,000. 

There are even some surprising items, such as timepieces, objets d'art and handbags. In fact one of the top lots is a Hermès patent black porosus crocodile Kelly bag in new condition (pictured above). This has an estimate of $22,000 - $25,000. 

A fun jewel being presented is an 18k, two-tone, diamond, enamel “Humpty Dumpty” brooch by Donlad Claflin for Tiffany & Co. with an estimate of $20,000 - $24,000. 

While the live auction date is May 17, people can place absentee bids anytime online up to the day of the live auction. 

“This is ideal for users that may not be available on the 17th but can still place their maximum bid,” said Allis Ghim, Bidsquare president and CEO. “Once they place their max bid online, the system automatically bids on their behalf up to their max bid on the day of the live sale.”

Go to the Bidsquare website to register for the live online sale or to bid in advance. 

Marilyn Cooperman Large Emerald and Kunzite Star Brooch. Estimate $20,000 - $25,000

Bidsquare is an auction website that sells merchandise from established auction houses. It was launched when six auction houses (Cowan’s Auctions, Rago, Leslie Hindman Auctioneers, Skinner, Pook & Pook and Brunk Auctions) joined forces. Bidsquare auctions range from fine art to estate jewels, to modern design and historical artifacts, all vetted by America’s foremost auction houses. The site also boasts a free, searchable database of more than a million auction records.

Jewelry News Network has been featuring items from the auction daily on its social media sites and will continue to do so until May 17. 

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High Jewelers Bring Their Art To TEFAF

High Jeweler Wallace Chan in front of his "Dawn of the Universe" art installation during TEFAF 2016. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

The world’s most important classic art fair, TEFAF, The European Fine Art Fair in Maastricht, Netherlands, has always included a selection of jewelers to mix with the impressive art collections. This year is no different as seven jewelers and several more dealers in antique jewels and watches are among the exhibitors at the fair, which runs till March 20.

A selection of original Verdura jewels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

In keeping true the artistic theme, many jewelers presented works of original expression, but perhaps the biggest impact was made by a nearly 10-foot tall horizontal art installation made of titanium, aluminum, stainless steel and a mirror by Hong Kong jewelry artist, Wallace Chan. It’s called the “Dawn of Universe” and it’s a name quite apt as it reminds me of the monolith in the Stanley Kubrick film, 2001 Space Odyssey. But this one is a light brown color with shades of green, red and cream with uneven swirls that move with light. It’s adorned with a 1,400-carat faceted blue topaz, amethyst and finally with several putti clinging to the structure in playful poses.

A selection of original Belperron jewels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

This is Chan’s first time exhibiting at the fair and he says, in the way that only he can say it, that he feels the presence of thousands of years of art represented at the show. “He is openly absorbing a lot when he is looking at the antiques and people from the past,” as translated by Cherry Rao, Chan’s editor. “He can feel them hammering the pieces, painting the pictures, making the works.”

TEFAF board member Michel Witmer in front of "Smell," the recently discovered work by Rembrandt. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Rao added that neither of them realized the importance of TEFAF in the art world. Then Chan attended the show a few years ago and the opportunity presented itself to exhibit. Even early in the morning before the big crowds came his exhibition space was overflowing with people. They came not only to view his artistic jewels but to meet the man, whose celebrity status is growing.  He really does seem at home here.

New jewels made of aluminum by Hemmerle. Photo by Anthony DeMarco 

“The people here are really cultivated and kind,” he said.

The high caliber of the exhibitors and visitors was a constant theme among the jewelry exhibitors.

“The quality is unbelievable. In every field,” said Ward Landrigan, who owns the Italian jewelry brand, Verdura, with his son, Nico.

1940s Hawaii bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

It took four years for the Landrigans to be accepted as an exhibitor, which is a rather short amount of time for TEFAF. It was also perfect timing as the two have recently relaunched the French brand, Belperron.

“When Belperron came along we wanted to present it to the world. This is the world,” Landrigan said. The exhibition space was evenly divided with Verdura and Belperron jewels, with both new creation based on the original drawings and original creations by the brands namesakes, (Fulco Di Verdura and Suzanne Belperron) who each popularized their jewelry creations in mid-20th Century.

A display of antique and period jewels by Wartski. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Olivier Reza, the head of the French jewelry brand, Alexandre Reza, is exhibiting at TEFAF for the second consecutive year. He notes that it requires effort to come to the hospitable and picturesque  city of Maastricht in the southern part of the Netherlands so those who attend the annual art fair are motivated.

Riveria necklace made with old European cut diamonds by Hancocks. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

“It’s the most exquisite and classy event I’ve ever seen,” he said. “Those who show up are real passionate people who are looking to satisfy their appetite for beauty…. They have an eye. They have a passion. They can be converted. There is no better place to show these objects.”

A 63.80-carat natural yellow sapphire on a ring from Hancocks, a London-based jeweler. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

In addition to the contemporary jewelry designers, there are several well-known dealers who specialize in rare and collectible jewels and watches who are veteran exhibitors at the fair. British jeweler, Hancocks, brought a collection of jewels by Verdura, Pierre Sterlé and Lalique, among others.

A selection of jewels by antique jewelry specialist, Véronique Bamps. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Another British jeweler, Wartski,  which has an appointment to Queen Elizabeth and Prince Charles, and is a specialist in Faberge, has been exhibiting at the fair, now in its 41st year, almost from its beginnings.

The works of German goldsmith, Otto Jakob. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Geoffrey Munn, the firm’s managing director, laments that it is one of the few places where people have the knowledge and courage to make purchases based on their personal passions.

“People are buying with their ears rather than their eyes,” he said.

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Kashmir Sapphire Sets Auction Record, Royal Necklace Fetches $4.5M

25.87-carat Kashmir sugarloaf cabochon sapphire

A 25.87-carat sugarloaf cabochon sapphire with Kashmir origins sold for $5.1 million at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale in New York. The gem set an auction record for a price per carat of a sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir sapphire at $197,990 per carat.

The gem, housed in a platinum and diamond ring, is owned by the family of Thomas Fortune Ryan (1851-1928), an American tobacco, insurance and transportation magnate. It surpassed its high estimate of $4.5 million and was the top lot of the auction held Wednesday.

The second highest lot of the evening sale was an historically significant platinum and diamond necklace owned by Egypt’s royal family (pictured above). Van Cleef & Arpels created the jewel with 217 carats of diamonds in 1939.

The necklace sold for nearly $4.3 million, within its estimate.

Queen Nazli (1894-1978), mother of Egypt’s King Farouk commissioned the diamond necklace and a matching tiara for the wedding ceremony of her daughter, Princess Fawzia, to the Crown Prince of Iran, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, in 1939, Sotheby’s said. A large part of Nazli’s jewelry collection, including her Van Cleef & Arpels diamond necklace and tiara, was sold by Sotheby Parke Bernet in New York in November 1975. The necklace remained in a private collection for 40 years and was sold for the benefit of a charitable foundation.

The other big sale for the evening was a platinum and diamond ring set with a 38.27-carat square emerald-cut diamond with D color and VVS2 (pictured above). It sold for just over $4 million, within its estimate.

The three top lots were among eight that fetched at least $1 million. Sotheby’s auction of 503 lots was the final jewelry sale of 2015 by the auction house for 2015. It achieved a total of $52.3 million total, 74.2 percent were sold by lot and 74.4 percent by value. This raised the company’s annual worldwide sales of jewelry to $571 million. Other jewels of note include:

* A 26.44-carat emerald-cut diamond of D color and VS2 clarity sold for just over $2 million, or $77,534 per carat.

* A fancy colored diamond and diamond brooch by Bulgari, 1964, with a 2.47-carat round-cornered square modified brilliant-cut Fancy Intense blue diamond of VS2 clarity, sold for more than $1.7 million, well above its high estimate of $700,000.

* A natural pearl and a 30.83-carat Colombian emerald and diamond pendant sold for nearly $1.3 million, well above its $1 million high estimate.

* An 11.51-carat emerald-cut diamond ring of D color and VS1 clarity sold for nearly $1.1 million, above its $700,000 high estimate ($94,700 per carat).

* A 15.04-carat cushion-cut diamond ring, of D color, VS2 clarity sold for $1 million, beating its high estimate of $900,000 ($66,489 per carat). 

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15-Carat Burmese Ruby Sets World Auction Record

Photo credit: CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2015

“The Crimson Flame,” an exceptionally rare Burmese ruby, set a world auction record per carat of $1.2 million at Christie’s Hong Kong sale of Magnificent Jewels Tuesday.

The 15-carat “pigeon’s blood” colored gem sold for sold for $18.3 million, surpassing its high estimate of $15 million. The auction house said it is “undoubtedly the most important pigeon’s blood ruby to come to auction in Asia.” 

“It’s the year of the ruby at Christie’s Hong Kong,” declared Vickie Sek, deputy chairman Asia & Director of Christie’s Asia Jewellery department.

To underscore this, a suite of ruby jewels called The “Mogok’s Fiery Red” by famed Burmese ruby jewelry house, Fai Dee, took in commanding prices. The jewels offered as two individual lots and sold as follows:

Photo credit: CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2015

* A necklace of 32 cushion-shaped pigeon’s blood Burmese rubies (pictured above), weighing approximately 5.05 to 1.04 carats, alternating with cushion-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum and gold took in $7.2 million, within its estimate. 

* Pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby and diamond earrings sold for $3.1 million, within its estimate. 

In addition, the “Afghan Emerald,” a 10.11-carat flawless gem fetched $2.2 million, establishing a world record price for an Afghan emerald at auction. It surpassed its $1.5 million high estimate.

The auction of 320 lots at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre included diamonds, colored diamonds, colored gemstones, jadeite and signed pieces that took in $96.9 million with 80 percent of items sold by lot and 83 percent by value, Christie’s said. The sale attracted 160 buyers from 16 countries across three continents.

Other items of note include:

Photo credit: CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2015

* A 7.53-carat Fancy Intense Pink diamond ring (pictured above) sold for $6.25 million, within its estimate; and 

Photo credit: CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2015

* A two-strand jadeite bead necklace with a diamond clasp by Cartier (pictured above) sold for $7.5 million, well above its 4.8 million high estimate. 

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Collectible Jewelry, Watches In Demand At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

The “Antique & Vintage Jewellery” section of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair is perhaps the least talked about area of the world’s largest jewelry trade fair. This year, from my perspective, it was among the busiest, if not the busiest, section of the show. This is despite the fact that prior to fair there was a sense that sales would be down based on recent headlines concerning the turbulence in China's stock market. 

“The world press exaggerated the negative business in Asia,” Edward Faber, co-owner of Aaron Faber Gallery, said at his very active booth. The retailer specializes in vintage and period jewelry and timepieces and in contemporary collectible jewelry. 

Faber said for both jewelry and watches, buyers are looking for unique, unusual pieces at a good price.

“Value is winning out in watches and motivating buyers,” he said.

Patricia Kiley Faber, the other half of the husband and wife team, said buyers are looking for jewelry they can “easily resell”. Also, one-of-a-kind pieces that are a bit different. 

This didn’t surprise specialists in the international auction houses I contacted prior to the show.

“Many collectors that we work with in the mainland are still buying. If anything the pressure on the financial markets pushes collectors to invest more of their wealth into a hobby that they love and enjoy,” said Sam Hines, Phillips International Head of Watches, who is based in Hong Kong. “They also feel more comfortable having something with intrinsic value rather than a piece of paper that can suddenly be worth much less. Many collectors also say to us that they prefer having something to wear and enjoy which is hopefully increasing in value.”

Graeme Thompson, Bonhams Asia director of Jewellery, added, “Colored stones are doing incredibly well. Vintage (pieces over 100 years old) and period jewelry (representing a specific time frame and style) markets are up. There are opportunities to be had.” He also notes that wealth is being created in China “unlike anywhere else in the world. That’s going to have a clear impact on collectible market in the next five to 10 years.” 

The bottom line is that in good times or in bad, there always seems to be demand for collectible jewelry and watches. 

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Rivière ‘Triple X’ Necklace Tops $1.2 Million At Bonhams Auction

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

A diamond rivière necklace with 51 “Triple X-cut” rated diamonds sold for $1.2 million (including premium) at Bonham’s New York Fine Jewelry sale. It was the top item of the sale held Monday by the international auction house.

Triple X (also known as “Triple Ex”) is an informal designation, mostly within the trade, that means a diamond that has received excellent polish, symmetry and cut grades. Only round and round brilliant cut diamonds can receive this designation.

Each diamond in the necklace is accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America report that states it’s three excellence grades. The graduated line of 51 round brilliant-cut diamonds weighs more than 70 carats. They are joined together by a heart-shaped diamond clasp weighing 2.04 carats. The diamonds are mounted in platinum.

Even though the necklace commanded a seven-figure price, it sold below its $1.4 million - $1.8 million estimate.

There were a number of items that failed to sell along with some pieces that shattered estimates. In many ways it reflected the inconsistent spring auction season for jewelry, which quietly came to an end.

Colored gems, very popular in recent years, did well, as well as Art Deco and Belle Époque and Art Deco pieces. Signed pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Tiffany & Co. also saw mixed results. Several colorless diamonds rings sold well.

Susan Abeles, Bonhams director of US Jewellery, was pleased with a number of sales throughout the auction.

“Color I think was outstanding,” she said following the auction. “Emeralds and other fine colored stones did very well. We saw more interest in large round diamonds. Beautiful signed items retained their value and worldwide interest.”

Among the top sellers were:

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

* A 25-carat sapphire and diamond ring by the M. Gerard French jewelry house (pictured above) sold for $581,000, beating its high estimate. The richly colored crystal sapphire’s unusual octagonal cut makes this a very rare find. The sapphire is flanked by triangular-cut diamonds and is mounted in 18k gold.

* Emerald and diamond earrings, each suspended by an emerald bead (30 carats total) with a yellow gold cap and topped with two round brilliant-cut diamonds (3.80 carats total) that sold for $118,750. Nearly double its high estimate of $60,000.

* Two diamond rings sold for the identical price of $106,250. A 3.51-carat cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond on a ring flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds and mounted in platinum. The other was a ring centered by a 7.37-carat round diamond set in 18k gold and platinum.

* Early in the auction a turn of the century imperial topaz and diamond pendant brooch, circa 1900 (pictured above), centered by an oval cushion-cut imperial topaz and suspended by a detachable imperial topaz briolette sold for $87,500, totally smashing its high estimate of $9,000.

* A fancy colored diamond and sapphire ring designed as a pavé-set diamond with a geometric plaque that sold for $52,500, within its estimate. The plaque centers a lozenge brilliant-cut light gray-blue colored diamond weighing 0.92 carat with acalibré-cut sapphire surround;

* A colorful black opal ring (pictured above) flanked by diamonds and mounted in platinum sold for $16,250, smashing its $7,000 high estimate.

Among the items that were passed by bidders were:

* A 3.56-carat cut-cornered, rectangular-cut fancy intense pink diamond on a ring with an estimate of $600,000 - $800,000, enhanced by a pavé-set diamond surround and mounted in 18k white and yellow gold;

* A ring designed as a pavé-set diamond star with an oval modified brilliant-cut fancy deep blue diamond in the center, which weighs 0.71 carat (est. $250,000 - $350,000);

* A 5.02-carat cut-cornered, square modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamond on a ring flanked by fancy-cut diamonds within a pavé-set diamond surround (est. $50,000 - $60,000).

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