Two Auction Records Set At Sotheby’s Hong Kong Sale

The Jewel of Kashmir

The Jewel of Kashmir, a 27.68-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring, sold for more than $6.7 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale. The $242,145 per carat it fetched set a world auction record for the price per carat for a Kashmir sapphire.

Described as having a “cornflower blue” hue, the emerald-shaped gem was the top lot at Wednesday’s auction.

The Cowdray Pearls

The second highest lot in the auction, The Cowdray Pearls, sold for more than $5.2 million, a world auction record for a natural grey pearl necklace.

The necklace is composed of 42 graduated natural grey pearls, completed by a clasp set with a rectangular mixed-cut diamond, mounted in platinum, with maker’s mark JC. The necklace is accompanied by a pair of earrings, each set with a button-shaped natural grey pearl surrounded by single- and brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Cartier London.

Dowager Viscountess Harcourt Necklace

The historically significant Dowager Viscountess Harcourt Necklace was sold to Tiffany & Co for more than $1.5 million. The necklace incorporates diamonds from the French Crown Jewels, purchased by the American luxury jeweler at auction in 1887, which it later sold.

The necklace is set with 28 graduated old mine-cut diamonds together weighing approximately 65 carats, each surmounted by a pair of collet-set diamonds on a wire mounting, suspending from a necklace of scalloped links set with similarly-cut diamonds.

Statement colored gems, fancy colored diamonds, and being Hong Kong, jadeites were among the top lots—maintaining a trend established during the past few years. However, a large percentage of items did not sell. The sale took in $62.3 million, with 66.5 percent sold by lot and 67.7 percent sold by value.

Despite the low percentage of sales, Quek Chin Yeow, deputy chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and chairman of International Jewellery, Asia, said, “We are very much delighted with the results of this sale,” adding “there was broad-based participation by Asian privates along with international trade. The top 10 lots show a great variety ranging from colored stones, diamonds and pearls to jewels of aristocratic provenance, with colored diamonds selling well over their high estimates.

On Tuesday, A rare Patek Philippe yellow gold World Time Vintage wristwatch, Ref 2523/1, 1968, (pictured above) surpassed its high estimate to fetch $933,333 at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Important Watches sale.

It was the top lot of the sale which took in more than $13.7 million with 80.6 percent sold by lot and 84.7 percent sold by value. 

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Collectible Jewelry, Watches In Demand At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

The “Antique & Vintage Jewellery” section of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair is perhaps the least talked about area of the world’s largest jewelry trade fair. This year, from my perspective, it was among the busiest, if not the busiest, section of the show. This is despite the fact that prior to fair there was a sense that sales would be down based on recent headlines concerning the turbulence in China's stock market. 

“The world press exaggerated the negative business in Asia,” Edward Faber, co-owner of Aaron Faber Gallery, said at his very active booth. The retailer specializes in vintage and period jewelry and timepieces and in contemporary collectible jewelry. 

Faber said for both jewelry and watches, buyers are looking for unique, unusual pieces at a good price.

“Value is winning out in watches and motivating buyers,” he said.

Patricia Kiley Faber, the other half of the husband and wife team, said buyers are looking for jewelry they can “easily resell”. Also, one-of-a-kind pieces that are a bit different. 

This didn’t surprise specialists in the international auction houses I contacted prior to the show.

“Many collectors that we work with in the mainland are still buying. If anything the pressure on the financial markets pushes collectors to invest more of their wealth into a hobby that they love and enjoy,” said Sam Hines, Phillips International Head of Watches, who is based in Hong Kong. “They also feel more comfortable having something with intrinsic value rather than a piece of paper that can suddenly be worth much less. Many collectors also say to us that they prefer having something to wear and enjoy which is hopefully increasing in value.”

Graeme Thompson, Bonhams Asia director of Jewellery, added, “Colored stones are doing incredibly well. Vintage (pieces over 100 years old) and period jewelry (representing a specific time frame and style) markets are up. There are opportunities to be had.” He also notes that wealth is being created in China “unlike anywhere else in the world. That’s going to have a clear impact on collectible market in the next five to 10 years.” 

The bottom line is that in good times or in bad, there always seems to be demand for collectible jewelry and watches. 

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50-Carat ‘Hope Spinel’ Could Surpass $310,000 Estimate

Among the top lots of the Bonhams London Fine Jewellery Sale on September 24 is the 50.13-carat Hope Spinel. The octagonal step-cut spinel is expected to fetch $240,000 - $310,000. However, Emily Barber, director of Bonhams jewelry department in London, said it could sell for much more.

“It not only had the amazing provenance but it’s also an exceptional gemstone in its own right,” she said. “You just don’t see pieces of this quality and provenance on the open market very often. It’s very exciting.”

The gemstone is part of one of the world’s greatest gem collections and will be offered for sale for the first time in 98 years.

It was owned by London banker Henry Philip Hope whose collection of approximately 700 gems includes the Hope Diamond (The 45.52-carat blue diamond that is part of the permanent collection in the Smithsonian National Natural History Museum). He kept the collection until his death in 1839.

The Hope Spinel’s origins are from the Kuh-i-Lal mines, in Tajikistan, according to the Swiss gemological laboratory, SSEF.

“The mines are geographically difficult to get to and politically in the 20th century weren’t being used,” Barber said. “That makes spinels like these exceptionally rare even without the provenance of the Hope Spinel.”

A spinel is a gemstone sometimes confused with ruby because they’re found in the same rock formations, are chemically similar and often have a pinkish-red coloring, Barber explained. But very large specimens are often more transparent and have fewer inclusions than ruby.

“Incredible transparency and impeccable cut of the Hope Spinel mean it is classed as an ‘exceptional treasure,’” she said.

The gem is set within decorative old brilliant and rose-cut diamond claws, framed by larger old brilliant-cut diamonds (total diamond weight 6.50 carats), mounted in silver and gold and worn as a brooch/pendant with detachable fittings. There’s a handwritten note in the case describing it as a spinel-ruby from the Hope Collection.

Henry Philip Hope never married and secretly gifted his gem collection to a nephew to avoid inheritance tax. Family wrangling caused the collection to be split among two nephews.

The spinel was eventually sold at auction in 1917 for approximately $1,600 (about $120,000 in today’s currency). It eventually turned up in the collection of Lady Mount Stephen, who was married to a Canadian philanthropist living in the UK. When Stephen died in 1933, the spinel went to her niece-by-marriage, Elsie Reford, who along with her husband, amassed one of the most important collections of art in Canada. The spinel was gifted to Elsie Refords’ granddaughter, who was also Lady Mount Stephen’s god daughter.

“The current owner is a direct descendant who has always known it as being ‘Aunt Gian’s (Lady Mount Stephen) Hope spinel,’” Barber said.

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101-Carat Diamond Fetches $5 Million

The top lot at Christie’s Important Jewels auction held Wednesday was a 101.36-carat, cushion-cut, L-color, VS2 diamond that sold for $4.98 million, or $49,100 per carat. The diamond, worn as a necklace, is suspended by a black silk cord with pavé-set diamonds mounted in platinum (pictured above).

In a slight turn of events, seven of the top 10 lots from the sale were colorless diamonds with five of the items selling for more than $1 million (including commission and fees). In recent years, fancy colored diamonds have been stealing the spotlight, achieving record-breaking sales.

Other top lots in the sale included the following:

* A diamond necklace featuring a detachable pendant K-color faint brown VVS1 Potentially Internally Flawless diamond pendant weighing 81.38 carats that sold for $3.19 million. Two other detachable diamonds weigh 15.30 and 7.04 carats, spaced by circular-cut diamonds. The necklace is designed as a line of 17 circular-cut diamonds, the largest weighing 15.46 carats, spaced by rectangular and square-cut diamonds, mounted in 18k white gold (pictured above).

* A 23.89-carat rectangular-cut, H-color, Potentially Internally Flawless diamond mounted in platinum ring that sold for $1.56 million, or 65,500 per carat.

* A 16.07-carat rectangular-cut F-color, Potentially Internally Flawless diamond on a ring set within a circular-cut and pear-shaped diamond surround, to the pear-shaped diamond shoulders, mounted in platinum, with maker's mark that sold for $1.5 million, or $93,700 per carat.

* In addition to diamonds, a Ceylon sapphire and diamond of 63.65 carats on a ring, flanked on either side by a half-moon diamond, mounted in platinum by Tiffany & Co. sold for $587,000, smashing its high estimate of $150,000.

All totaled, the sale of 347 lots fetched $33.7 million, with 75 percent sold by lot and 77 percent sold by value.

“Fine quality colorless diamonds achieved strong prices with international bidding,” said Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Christie’s Jewelry. “Collectors also bid competitively for natural pearls and special jeweled objects such as the Art Deco fish bowl clock, by Black, Starr, and Frost, which realized $137,000 against a pre-sale estimate of $15,000.”