Inside The Haute Joaillerie Section Of TEFAF Maastricht

Wallace Chan introduces a group tour at TEFAF to his dreamlike world

From the dreamlike world of Wallace Chan to the precise jewelry art of Hemmerle, the high jewelry area of TEFAF Maastricht, though small, contained a wealth of variety. And from the moment the show started, the jewelry lovers who came to the small out-of-the-way city of Maastricht, Netherlands, to attend The European Fine Arts Fair (more commonly known as TEFAF) started buying.

The bamboo framed exhibition space of Hemmerle

On the March 9 preview day, moments after the doors opened at the Maastricht Exhibition and Congress Centre (MECC) for the VIP buyers, I was inside the bamboo framed Hemmerle exhibition space when a woman came in, tried on a pair of one-of-a-kind gold earrings made with a wax process that created gold strands in a basket-like weave. She walked back and forth briefly looking in the mirror and bought them on the spot. I took a picture before they were whisked away.

Hemmerle earrings that sold within minutes after TEFAF opened. Old mine cut diamonds appear to be floating inside gold strands that looked as if they were weaved

“The fair is our first public presentation each year and we are glad to report strong consistent sales from the first 10 minutes of day 1,” said Christian Hemmerle at the close of the 10-day fair.

These earrings from Wallace Chan have everything: wood and titanium; emeralds, sapphires and diamonds; shadows and light 

Before I had a chance to enter Wallace Chan’s booth, the famed Hong Kong jewelry artist sold one of his elaborate titanium and colored-gem brooches. Chan, who always is in a good frame of mind, was particularly happy at this year’s show, saying he loves seeing old friends here.

Belperron diamond and ruby necklace. the center stone is a
rare star ruby

Meanwhile, Ward and Nico Landrigan, the father and son team that own the mid-20th Century brands, Verdura and Belperron, also were in good spirits after selling a circa 1960 yellow gold and diamond Verdura brooch. 

A Verdura bird clutching a natural pearl with diamond and emerald wings.

I was trying to have lunch with the public relations representative of Hancocks of London and couple of other jewelry writers (I said trying because the restaurant was so full they stopped serving food, giving an idea of how crowded it was), when the PR rep looked at her phone and suddenly said, “I have to go the tiara’s been sold.” The “tiara” is the Spencer family Edwardian diamond tiara. It was given to Lady Delia Spencer, great aunt to Princess Diana, by her father the 6th Earl Spencer, on her wedding day in 1914. Set with more than 800 old cut diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of 48 carats, the tiara can be transformed into a choker necklace and bracelet.

The Spencer Tiara sold by Hancocks of London

Very few of the prices of these sales were revealed but these are not typical impulse purchases. These are items that sell from tens of thousands of dollars to the stratosphere. One price that was revealed was the “Nef” necklace, from German high jeweler Otto Jakob that sold for €142,000 ($153,580).

An emerald ring by Reza

I had to cancel an appointment with Olivier Reza, the head of the Parisian jewelry brand, Reza, because the jeweler’s booth was too crowded with customers. 

Van Cleef & Arpels transformable necklace and earrings, 1959, made of emeralds, yellow and blue sapphires, and diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels and Chopard, the two largest brands in the high jewelry section, brought combinations of vintage and new jewels. 

Chopard L.U.C. XPS made with Fairmined gold

Opening day, March 10, was more manageable but still very crowded. I spoke to one woman lived about an hour away in Germany who said it was the first time she attended an art fair. She came to see Wallace Chan’s exhibit and was so amazed and astounded by what he presented that she returned to the booth seven times. She purchased Chan’s book “Dream Light Water” and had the artist sign it. 

Honcocks of London's booth

Final numbers released by TEFAF show that the fair was very active with more than 71,000 visitors, from more than 60 nations visiting the 275 dealers during the 10-day fair. This includes approximately 200 museums. 

The bust Verdura and Belperron booth

High jewelry amounts to one of nine art categories that TEFAF offers. The others are Antiques, Classical Antiquities, Curated, Design, Modern, Paintings, Paper, and Showcase. Trade fair officials were touting some of the larger sales. Among them:

* Antiquariat Bibermuehle AG Heribert Tenschert sold a 12-volume series of books, Historia naturalis, originally created for Emperor Rudolph II of Habsburg, 1596-1610, to a private collector. The series came to market for the first time in 25 year and was sold for a seven-figure sum. 

* Tomasso Brothers Fine Art sold an important work by the Renaissance master Giambologna (1529-1608). It is the earliest recorded work by the artist and the only surviving sculpture that he carved in wood. The carving was acquired by a new client, described as an important European private collector, and was priced at about €1.5million ($1.62 million). 

* Antiques dealer Les Enluminures sold the 1,000-year-old Gospel Book of Liesborn Abbey in Westphalia to the German government for more than $3 million. 

* Ben Janssens Oriental Art Ltd said he sold more than 70 items by the mid-point of the fair, including a set of four iron paintings, Tiehua, China, Qing dynasty, 18th Century, which had an asking price of €50,000 ($54,000). 

Rossi & Rossi sold a colorful Tibetan cloth painting, “Sabzang Pakpa Zhonnu Lodro” (1358-1412/24) for approximately $400,000. 

The artwork at the entrance of TEFAF Maastricht

* Emanuel von Baeyer sold 12 works to private collectors with further works on reserve with museums. A key work that sold was The Signboard of the Gersaint Gallery, 1732, the very rare engraving after Jean-Antoine Watteau (1684-1721). 

* James Butterwick sold more than €180,000 worth of works, including Still Life with Carafe and Glass on a Mirror, 1915 by Alexander Bogomazov (1880-1930) to a private Swiss collector.

* Landau Fine Art, Inc. had one of the biggest sales of the Fair, selling the monumental work “Henri Michaux acteur Japonais,” 1946 by Jean Dubuffet (1901-1985), which had an asking price of $6.5 million, to a private collector. 

* Bernard de Grunne sold 11 Sepik works from Papua New Guinea to one private collector. The pieces ranged from €80,000 to €250,000 ($86,500 to $270,000). 

* Classical antiquities sold at Charles Ede included a statuette of the “Apis bull, Late Dynastic Period,” 26th Dynasty, circa 664-525 BC, which had an asking price of £65,000 ($81,100), as well as a Graeco-Roman large footed basin, circa 2nd-century BC, with an asking price of £160,000 ($199,650).  

The talk prior to the fair was that art and jewelry sales are down. This is either an exception or the beginning of a new dawn for both the art and jewelry markets. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

TEFAF Maastricht's High Jewelry Preview

The Verdura and Belperron exhibition space at the 2016 TEFAF Maastricht 

Prior to my first trip to Maastricht last year to attend The European Fine Art Fair (more commonly known as TEFAF) I wrote this: “Everyone who’s been there (Maastricht) tells me it’s really nice.” 

None other than Camille Oostwegel Jr., director of Business Development of the Oostwegel Collection, a group of luxury hotels and restaurants in Maastricht area, read this. In fact, while giving the group of journalists I was with a tour of his properties, the impeccably dressed and polished hospitality professional made it a point to memorize our names ahead of time, read our work and present each of us with a personalized hand-written letter based on what he read. For my note he made a point to say that he hoped I would agree that Maastricht is really nice. 

Dinner at Chateau Neercanne during TEFAF Maastricht 2016

Yes Camille, the picturesque medieval town surrounded by waterways and rolling hills is very nice, much nicer than I expected and I had high expectations. It’s made for strolling, which I did every chance I had, and it has more cultural activities than a town of its size should be allowed to have. 

Your properties and restaurants we toured are exceptional as well. You don’t know this, Camille, but I was in Amsterdam when the crown jewel of your restaurants, Chateau Neercanne, celebrated 60 years of Michelin Star excellence. I saw you accept the special recognition from the Michelin Star organization. I still remember the wonderful meal we had within the colorfully lit interiors of the 17th Century castle and seeing the signatures of those who signed the Maastricht Treaty (the document that created the European Union) embedded into the old castle walls. 

The signatures of the Maastricht Treaty document inside Chateau Neercanne

But I digress. 

This is supposed to be a preview of the upcoming high jewels at TEFAF Masstrict. The world renowned art, antiques and design fair will be held March 10 – 19. Among the 275 dealers and designers from 20 countries there will be contemporary high jewelry artists, a couple of internationally known high jewelry and watch brands and dealers of antique and period jewels. Among the best are the following: 

Birth and Blossom Earrings by Wallace Chan

Wallace Chan is a favorite of JNN. Not just because he endorsed this publication but because he is among the most creative and technically sound jewelry artists in the world. And, he too is an extremely hospitable and open person. His pieces are reported to sell for upwards of tens of millions of dollars (he never talks price) and for good reason. One way he separates himself from his peers is that he does nearly everything himself. He’s a master gem carver and one of the early adapters to using titanium for jewels. He often develops his own techniques and builds his own tools to make his creations. 

Among his new pieces for the show are the “Birth and Blossom Earrings.” Chan hollowed out two pearls and set inside them diamonds and sapphires in a colorful spiral arrangement. Titanium stems reach out and sprawl downwards, depicting the growth of a magical blossom with pieces of conch shell turned into petals, echoing the pearls’ smooth texture. The pistils are surrounded by diamond sparkles. Dangling underneath the flowers are two pieces of green emeralds, totaling more than 30 carats. It is both an accurate depiction of nature and an imaginative artistic creation. Meaning it’s typically Wallace Chan.

Hemmerle bangle

Hemmerle, known for using traditional and unorthodox materials to create artistic bespoke pieces, has new set of wearable art for TEFAF including a bangle crafted out of sapphires, aquamarines and aluminum presents that are inspired by the ornamentation seen on the capitals of columns of the 2,000-year-old temple of Karnak in ancient Egypt.

Otto Jakob Xuanas

The self-taught German jewelry artist, Otto Jakob, creates art in miniature inspired by Etruscan, Celtic and Hellenic masterpieces. Among the items he will be displaying is his 2016 creation, Xuanas, which consists of yellow gold casts of St. John’s Wort petals, the ovaries made of white gold, set with micro pavé diamonds and surrounded by stamens and pollen grains covered with dark red enamel.

The Verdura Medusa ring

Ward and Nico Landrigan, the father and son team that owns the historic brands, Verdura and Belperron, will be exhibiting antique pieces and those recreated from the original drawings of the famed mid-20th Century jewelry artists, Duke Fulco di Verdura and Suzanne Belperron. 

The Belperron Congo Cuff

Among the pieces are the Verdura Medusa Ring made of gold and ruby, created during Verdura’s 1941 collaboration with Salvador Dali; and the Belperron Congo Cuff, made of ebony wood and 18k gold. 

Reza Délhéa necklace

The Place Vendôme high jewelry house, Reza, will return with its well designed and crafted gem-focused jewels. Among them is the Délhéa necklace featuring a 30.34-carat yellow cabochon Ceylon sapphire, a 5.76-carat Troidia Brazilian emerald, 11 yellow oval cabochon sapphires, 103 princess-cut diamonds weighing 16.17 carats and 28 brilliant-cut, diamonds, all set in white browned gold. The necklace converts into a bracelet.

Cleef & Arpels Édaillons necklace and Etoiles earrings

The Parisian luxury jewelry house, Van Cleef & Arpels, will present its delicate artistic creations that include “Édaillons necklace (1968) and Etoiles” earrings (1971) featuring round diamonds and sapphires with cabochon-cut turquoises. The motifs and the association of precious and hard stones reveal an Indian influence. The necklace is transformable and can be worn in a shorter version with a matching bracelet. 

Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike

Swiss luxury brand, Chopard, will be exhibiting jewelry and watches. Among them is the L.U.C. Full Strike, which strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on transparent sapphire crystal gongs. The 42.5 mm case is made of Fairmined rose gold and an open worked dial. 

Chopard emerald ring

One of Chopard’s premiere jewelry pieces for the fair is a ring in a flower motif set at the center with a 19-carat heart-shaped emerald within colorful overlapping gemstone.

The Spencer family tiara

There will be a number of antique jewelry dealers. Among them is Hancocks. Within the 100 or so items being exhibited by the London firm is an Edwardian diamond tiara that belonged to the Spencer family. It was given to Lady Delia Spencer, great aunt to Princess Diana, by her father the 6th Earl Spencer, on her wedding day on February 18, 1914. Set with more than 800 old cut diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of 48 carats, the tiara can be transformed into a choker necklace and bracelet.

Enamel fringe necklace

Another London mainstay, Wartski, known as specialists in the works by Carl Faberge, will include a gold and enamel fringe necklace by highly collectible jewelry artist, Giacinto Melillo of Naples, circa 1875.

Enamel archaeological style bracelet 

Dutch antique silver and jewelry firm, A. Aardewerk Antiquair Juwelier, is also featuring a work designed by Giacinto Melillo: A gold, pearls and enamel archaeological style bracelet is designed, circa 1870. Seven heavy, square panels are joined by gold hinges with semicircular end plaques. Each panel is decorated with motifs in the Etruscan style executed in fine granulation and wirework with applied florets. The reverse of the plaque is decorated with a four-petal motif in applied wirework. 

Gold and diamond earrings, circa 1870

Véronique Bamps of Monaco, who specializes in European and American jewels, will present a cross section of jewels from many periods, including these gold and diamonds earrings, circa 1870. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

High Jewelers Bring Their Art To TEFAF

High Jeweler Wallace Chan in front of his "Dawn of the Universe" art installation during TEFAF 2016. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

The world’s most important classic art fair, TEFAF, The European Fine Art Fair in Maastricht, Netherlands, has always included a selection of jewelers to mix with the impressive art collections. This year is no different as seven jewelers and several more dealers in antique jewels and watches are among the exhibitors at the fair, which runs till March 20.

A selection of original Verdura jewels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

In keeping true the artistic theme, many jewelers presented works of original expression, but perhaps the biggest impact was made by a nearly 10-foot tall horizontal art installation made of titanium, aluminum, stainless steel and a mirror by Hong Kong jewelry artist, Wallace Chan. It’s called the “Dawn of Universe” and it’s a name quite apt as it reminds me of the monolith in the Stanley Kubrick film, 2001 Space Odyssey. But this one is a light brown color with shades of green, red and cream with uneven swirls that move with light. It’s adorned with a 1,400-carat faceted blue topaz, amethyst and finally with several putti clinging to the structure in playful poses.

A selection of original Belperron jewels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

This is Chan’s first time exhibiting at the fair and he says, in the way that only he can say it, that he feels the presence of thousands of years of art represented at the show. “He is openly absorbing a lot when he is looking at the antiques and people from the past,” as translated by Cherry Rao, Chan’s editor. “He can feel them hammering the pieces, painting the pictures, making the works.”

TEFAF board member Michel Witmer in front of "Smell," the recently discovered work by Rembrandt. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Rao added that neither of them realized the importance of TEFAF in the art world. Then Chan attended the show a few years ago and the opportunity presented itself to exhibit. Even early in the morning before the big crowds came his exhibition space was overflowing with people. They came not only to view his artistic jewels but to meet the man, whose celebrity status is growing.  He really does seem at home here.

New jewels made of aluminum by Hemmerle. Photo by Anthony DeMarco 

“The people here are really cultivated and kind,” he said.

The high caliber of the exhibitors and visitors was a constant theme among the jewelry exhibitors.

“The quality is unbelievable. In every field,” said Ward Landrigan, who owns the Italian jewelry brand, Verdura, with his son, Nico.

1940s Hawaii bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

It took four years for the Landrigans to be accepted as an exhibitor, which is a rather short amount of time for TEFAF. It was also perfect timing as the two have recently relaunched the French brand, Belperron.

“When Belperron came along we wanted to present it to the world. This is the world,” Landrigan said. The exhibition space was evenly divided with Verdura and Belperron jewels, with both new creation based on the original drawings and original creations by the brands namesakes, (Fulco Di Verdura and Suzanne Belperron) who each popularized their jewelry creations in mid-20th Century.

A display of antique and period jewels by Wartski. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Olivier Reza, the head of the French jewelry brand, Alexandre Reza, is exhibiting at TEFAF for the second consecutive year. He notes that it requires effort to come to the hospitable and picturesque  city of Maastricht in the southern part of the Netherlands so those who attend the annual art fair are motivated.

Riveria necklace made with old European cut diamonds by Hancocks. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

“It’s the most exquisite and classy event I’ve ever seen,” he said. “Those who show up are real passionate people who are looking to satisfy their appetite for beauty…. They have an eye. They have a passion. They can be converted. There is no better place to show these objects.”

A 63.80-carat natural yellow sapphire on a ring from Hancocks, a London-based jeweler. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

In addition to the contemporary jewelry designers, there are several well-known dealers who specialize in rare and collectible jewels and watches who are veteran exhibitors at the fair. British jeweler, Hancocks, brought a collection of jewels by Verdura, Pierre Sterlé and Lalique, among others.

A selection of jewels by antique jewelry specialist, Véronique Bamps. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Another British jeweler, Wartski,  which has an appointment to Queen Elizabeth and Prince Charles, and is a specialist in Faberge, has been exhibiting at the fair, now in its 41st year, almost from its beginnings.

The works of German goldsmith, Otto Jakob. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Geoffrey Munn, the firm’s managing director, laments that it is one of the few places where people have the knowledge and courage to make purchases based on their personal passions.

“People are buying with their ears rather than their eyes,” he said.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

High Jewelry Preview At TEFAF Art Fair

Just looking at a map of the Netherlands, it’s most southern part is just a dot of land mass almost appearing separate from the rest of the country squeezed between Belgium and Germany. Without knowing the history It's difficult to understand why this area isn’t controlled by one or both of their neighbors.

It is here that the university city of Maastricht is located. Everyone who’s been there tells me it’s really nice. I will find out soon enough as I will be attending The European Fine Art Fair—more commonly referred to as TEFAF, being held March 11-20.

While the city may be nice this fair is considered almost universally to be the world’s most important classic art fair and also the most difficult to enter as an exhibitor. The vetting process involves no fewer than 175 international experts in 29 different categories, who examine every work of art entering the fair for quality, authenticity and condition.

But why was I invited to a classic art fair? I write about jewelry and watches. It’s because out of the 275 galleries from 20 countries exhibiting, seven of them are high jewelry brands. In addition, a few other exhibitors will offer more traditional antique and period jewels. It's a well curated group of exhibitors. In fact, there are few places in the world (perhaps no place) that could curate such an interesting group of contemporary and historic jewelry specialists. 

Verdura Theodora Cuffs

The father and son team of Ward and Nico Landrigan, who successfully revived the Verdura brand and is now doing the same for Belperron, is a first-time exhibitor at TEFAF, bringing new jewels recreated from original drawings and original vintage jewelry highlighting each house’s signature design.

Belperron Leaf Coronet Cuff

The pieces include the 75th Anniversary limited edition Verdura Theodora Cuff, famously worn by Coco Chanel; and the diamond-studded platinum Leaf Coronet Cuff by Belperron.

Wallace Chan Gleams of Waves Brooch

Wallace Chan, the master craftsman and artist, also a first-time exhibitor, will be bringing his sculptural, colorful jewels in his exhibition, “Dream Light Water,” first unveiled in Hong Kong for a five-day public viewing. It’s also the name of his just released book.

Hemmerle “Clematis” Brooch

Hemmerle is previewing The [AL] Project; a new series of 15 jewels (earrings and a brooch) exploring the unique properties of aluminum through innovative design and fine craftsmanship.

Hemmerle planned exhibition space at TEFAF

The Munich, Germany-based jeweler is also unveiling a special exhibition-stand featuring a sculptural structure designed by the Dutch architect Tom Postma in collaboration with the jeweler. Postma is the fair architect for TEFAF Maastricht. The interlocking architectural structure is composed of 16 individual screens made up of over 3,000 American walnut-wood rods connected to over 16,500 engineered aluminum rods.

Alexandre Reza Dune Bangle

Parisian jewelry house, Alexandre Reza, is highlighting two new pieces. Dune, a Cuff bracelet featuring two pear- shaped diamonds and 152 brilliant cut diamonds weighing 31.48 carats, set on sand blasted and polished pink gold; and an ebony faceted ring featuring an oval cabochon Colombian emerald of 17.83 carats set on yellow gold.

Otto Jakob Coral

The self-taught German goldsmith, Otto Jakob will be bringing a number of his unique Renaissance-inspired pieces made of rare and natural materials.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lolanta ballerina brooch

Two international luxury brands are also among the exhibitors. The French jeweler, Van Cleef & Arpels, and the Swiss luxury watch and jewelry firm, Chopard, will be bringing their high jewelry to the event.

Chopard Flora and Fauna Bracelet

At least two firms will be presenting antique and period jewels. Both are well-established in estate jewelry.

Pierre Sterlé diamond Ribbon necklace presented by Hancocks

The British firm Hancocks will bring 88 pieces to the fair, including the “highly collectible” diamond ribbon necklace, circa 1960, by French jeweller Pierre Sterlé. The 62.9-carat necklace is centered with a stylised bow motif with tapered ends, set throughout with long elegant baguette diamonds, each side crossing the other.

Necklace by Parisian jeweler René Boivin in 1945 for Princess Irene of Greece. Presented by Véronique Bamps

The French antique jewelry specialist, Véronique Bamps, will have a display of her own group of highly collectible jewels for the event. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork