Exceptional Antique and Vintage Jewels at the September Hong Kong Fair

An emerald and diamond tiara by Bijan & Co. It was in the antique and vintage jewelry area but it is a new piece. Photo Credit: Anthony DeMarco

Tucked in a corner of the Hong Kong Convention & Exposition Center are antique and vintage jewels. It doesn’t get the press or attention that the large manufacturers and branded designers receive but it is an essential part of the September Hong fair. The space itself is easy to miss but those attracted to these special pieces and art objects were there in strong numbers. 

The selection is quite diverse and the quality overall is exceptional. Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany and Bulgari were well represented; as were many famous individual designers such as Verdura, Schlumberger and Belperron. The section overall was very crowded with buyers on the opening day and upon returning for the second day it was one of the busiest areas of the show. 

Several Bulgari pieces being offered by Dover Jewelry & Diamonds. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Aaron Faber booth in particular was filled with people throughout the first two days of the finished jewelry portion of the fair at HKCEC. The New York-based dealers specialize in artist-made, classic and estate jewelry, and vintage timepieces. When I asked the owners Ed Faber and Patricia Kiley Faber said people are interested in the stories they provide behind the pieces they sell. In other words plenty of people were listening to the stories but not necessarily buying the pieces. However, there were certainly buyers among those who were listening to the stories. They’ve been exhibiting at the September Hong Kong fair for several years. 

Meanwhile, Moe Haghighi of Dover Jewelry & Diamonds, Miami, has been exhibiting at the fair for three years and he’s happy overall with the amount of business he does and the quality of buyers. 

Not all of the jewels were vintage or antique. Some of these antique and vintage jewelry dealers also design and craft jewels. In one display case there was an emerald and diamond tiara that was certainly at home with the jewels from the past. Only it was a new piece from Bijan & Co., based in New York. It was part of a set of one-of-kind pieces.

Bulgari’s High Jewelry Collection Is A Colorful Italian Celebration

Platinum necklace set with a 19-carat cushion Sri Lanka sapphire, 17 South-sea pearls, 82 emerald beads, nine sapphires beads, 40 fancy diamonds and diamond pavé

There are few countries in the world whose people know how to celebrate life like Italy.

The Italian luxury brand, Bulgari, known nearly as much for presenting a lavish lifestyle as for its luxurious jewels, has put together a collection of more than 100 colorful jewels and watches that represents the diversity of Italian celebrations.

Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari Jewelry Creation & Gem Buying director, said the new collection named “Festa” (Italian for party) is inspired by the celebrations held throughout the country. It includes historical and modern-day festivals as well as children and adult celebrations. Some of the jewels are linked to women of Italian royalty known for their outrageous lives, loves and festas.

This horse head brooch is made with 18k white gold with 26 rubies, 24 trapezoidal step diamonds and diamond pavé

“The main inspiration of the Festa collection is happiness. Joy, and sharing that joy with others in a public or private celebration is very much part of the Italian art de vivre,” Silvestri said. “This is something you can find in Rome, in Venice, in Tuscany, in Puglia, everywhere in Italy. The Festa runs deep in our way of life. The theme is closely linked to Bulgari, as one of the purposes of our jewels is to give joy and happiness to the women who wear them.”

This gift wrapped necklace is made of 18k pink gold with yellow green chalcedony, 38 diamonds and diamond pavè

Two pieces in the collection, the Palio necklace and bracelet, refer to the Tuscan city of Siena and its legendary horse race: the Palio, which dates back to the Middle Ages. The race normally takes place twice a year in July and August. The colors of Siena’s 17 contrade (districts), whose riders participate in the race, are included in the two jewels. Silvestri said Bulgari worked for months in close collaboration with city authorities to get the 17 colors of the contrade right. Two necklaces and two pairs of earrings are inspired by two of the 17 contrade: la Pantera and la Lupa. Horses used in the races are present in the form of in diamond, ruby and onyx brooches.

This sweet ice cream treat is a brooch made with 18k pink gold with three buff-top rubies and diamond pavé

The Tarantella—a rapid whirling dance celebration in southern Italian regions of Calabria, Puglia and Sicily—is often performed at weddings and private celebrations. However, there’s an annual festival where people can dance until dawn. A necklace in the form of spiders’ nests; and two sautoirs, a bracelet and a pair of earrings are inspired by the popular folk dance.

Platinum necklace set with a 26-carat round cabochon Colombia emerald, 47 round brilliant cut diamonds, 90 buff top Emeralds, 36 baguette cut diamonds and diamond pavé

Some of the jewels in the collection are designed to bring back childhood memories with the use of gold, enamel, diamonds, tourmalines, turquoises, coral and jade. Bulgari calls them “happy jewels,” which range from sweet desserts to party favors. They include rings that depict pistachio, lemon and raspberry, chocolate and cream cakes. Precious balloon necklaces and earrings made of gold, diamonds and colored gems are also part of the collection.

This platinum necklace is mounted with a 53-carat round Colombia emerald, eight pear shaped diamonds, eight emeralds, 31 pear-shaped diamonds and round diamond pavè

“We have explored new alliances of stones and colors,” Silvestri said. “In some jewels, the green of emeralds is mixed with the blue of sapphires and the pink of spinels.”

Rome, the home of Bulgari, gets special recognition with a number of pieces, including the Monete Secret-Watch pendant is a statement piece. A silver tetradrachm (an Ancient Greek silver coin) depicting the profile of Alexander the Great, the King of Macedonia and Conqueror of the Persian Empire, decorates the front cover of the octagonal pendant—made of pink gold, diamonds and rubies— opens to reveal a skeletonized dial, exposing the in-house tourbillon caliber BVL 208.

18k pink gold necklace set with five pink rubellite tourmalines, four purple double rose amethysts, 83 bead sapphires (31,84 ct) and diamond pavé

Others pieces that reflect the “Eternal City” are a ruby ring that depicts the Piazza Navona; and a 12.10-carat ruby set in the pendant of a necklace surrounded by diamonds. The color represents the official coat of arms of the city.

Platinum ring centered with a 15-carat emerald-cut diamond (D FL) and diamond pavé

More than 30 jewels are dedicated to three Italian princesses: Maria Mancini, Principessa Colonna (1639-1715), Paolina Bonaparte, Principessa Borghese (1780-1825), and Margherita di Savoia, Regina d’Italia (1851-1926). Among the highlights are a sautoir set with a 26.10-carat cabochon emerald, a 41.98-carat bead emerald and 104 South Seas Akoya pearls; a ring and necklace set with a cabochon emerald; and a secret bangle-watch.

Bulgari's new collection brings la dolce vita to high jewelry.

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Bulgari’s ‘Piccola Catene’ Collection

Bulgari’s newest watch collection for women turns a collection of tiny watches into a bold fashion statement.

The “Piccola Catene” (small chains) collection is based on the gourmette chain that was a signature design motif of the Roman jewelry house in 1970s. The gourmette chain consists of braided flattened loops with rough and smooth sides.

The design of the chains, available in 18k pink or white gold, either paved in diamonds or diamond pavé in alternating links, brings refinement and airiness to the collection of tiny watches.

These chains attach to watches that are mere 22mm in diameter. The bezel is either paved with diamonds or engraved by the double Bulgari signature, inspired by Ancient Roman coins, and a symbol of the jewelry house. The dials are available in black lacquer, white mother-of-pearl or diamond pavé. The gold crown on all of the watches is set with a pink cabochon-cut stone.

There are four models, all with quartz movements, in the collection. They are available as follows:

* Case and chain bracelet in 18k pink gold, black lacquered dial bearing 12 brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers

* Case in 18k pink gold with bezel set with 31 brilliant-cut diamonds, 18k pink gold chain bracelet with links partially set with 22 brilliant-cut diamonds and mother-of-pearl dial bearing 12 brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers.

* Case in 18k white gold with bezel set with 31 brilliant-cut diamonds, 18k white gold chain bracelet with links partially set with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds and a black dial bearing 12 brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers.

* Case in 18k white gold with bezel set with 31 brilliant-cut diamonds, 18k white gold chain bracelet with links set with 104 brilliant-cut diamonds, and dial paved with brilliant-cut diamonds. 

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Bulgari’s High Jewelry Collection Interprets Italian Gardens

The “Blue Iridescence” necklace is made of eight rare blue sapphires (187.48 total carats), acquired by Bulgari in various parts of the world and kept by the luxury jeweler for years.

Lots of color and sparkle combined with detailed geometric shapes, romantic themes and blooming flowers are among the hallmarks of Bulgari’s new high jewelry collection. 

The Italian luxury house took to interpreting the structured serenity of Italian gardens of the Renaissance period with its Italian Gardens collection of 100 one-of-a-kind pieces. 

Bulgari has a long history of interpreting the dialogue between art and nature in its jewels. But usually the theme is based on nature in its wildest form, most notably displayed in its iconic serpenti design. This is a bit different but the trademark Bulgari craftsmanship, design and use of colorful gems remain the same. 

For example, the “Hidden Treasures” earrings (pictured above), inspired by the geometric designs of sculpted evergreens, consist of two fancy cut Zambian emeralds for each jewel. The four stones together weigh 143.1 carats. They were extracted from a single 400-carat rough stone. The company says the cut enhances the brightness of the gems. Each stone is gently embraced with platinum claws set with 8.40 carats of diamonds. Between each pair of emeralds is a brilliant cut diamond. 

Rare blue sapphires, acquired by Bulgari in various parts of the world and kept by the luxury jeweler for years, make up the “Blue Iridescence” necklace (top photo). The eight sapphires, which total 187.48 carats, maintain their shimmering blue hue even in the dark, according to the jewelry house. Seven of the sapphires are offset with seven pink spinels totaling 81.13 carats. The eighth sapphire is used for the clasp. Completing the necklace is a tight, geometric pattern made of 18k gold and paved with diamonds. 

Diamonds also play an important role in this collection. “Spring Encounter” (pictured above), inspired by the “Allegory of Spring” by Sandro Botticelli, describes the eternal rebirth of nature. Bulgari says it also refers to its past, recalling a necklace from 1969 in yellow gold with pearls, coral and diamonds. While romantic and beautiful, this necklace also showcases the skill of Bulgari’s craftsmen. Brilliant-cut diamonds are placed in the centre of 16 flowers. Each flower vibrates as the necklace moves. The delicate 18k gold petals of each flower are paved with diamonds. 

One of the most colorful pieces in the collection is the “Secret Garden” necklace (pictured above), designed to replicate the intimate, hidden areas in Italian Renaissance gardens. The luxury jeweler said the necklace is crafted to give volume and movement to the gems, again, showcasing Bulgari’s craftsmanship and originality. Rubellite, tanzanite, citrine, amethyst and aquamarine receive a special fancy cut to appear like petals. They are set in delicate claws and combined so each flower is made up of four multi-colored petals. The flowers and other gems hang from a rounded, serpenti-like neck chain made of 18k yellow gold. 

Bulgari’s “Water Symphony” necklace (pictured above) uses sapphires, white gold and diamonds. The necklace, which converts into a bracelet, features two cushion-shaped blue sapphires. One is 45.57 carats offset by a 3.65-carat sapphire. The large sapphire is mounted in ribbon-shaped 18k white gold set with baguette diamonds. The large gem also is framed with pear-shaped diamonds. The same theme is repeated in the chain with the addition of round brilliant diamonds. 

Two “Sparkling Hearts” necklaces (pictured above with emeralds) are paved in diamonds set in white gold. These necklaces, which convert into brooches, also are among the pieces that most reflect the geometric designs of flowerbeds and hedges in Renaissance era Italian gardens. For the central pendant, hearts of brilliant white diamonds are formed within curved geometric lines. Meanwhile, interpretations of blooming flowers and drops of water are recreated with pavé diamond and brilliant cut diamonds are on white gold chains that dangle from the central pendant. The theme is repeated on the neck chain. Versions of this necklace are sprinkled with either emeralds or rubies.

The collection also includes four high jewelry watches called “Geometry of Time.” Mother-of-pearl and coral are blended with a variety of gems, including sapphires and emeralds, amethysts and rubellites, again forming colorful geometric patterns.

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Famous Bulgari Jewelry on Display in San Francisco

“Tubogas” choker, 1974; two-color gold with Greek silver coins. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 404 N607. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

By Maria Ling,
Assistant Editor

One more reason to spend the holidays in San Francisco is the ongoing exhibition of Bulgari jewelry at the de Young Museum. 

“The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond 1950 - 1990,” is an exhibition of approximately 150 pieces created by the renowned Italian jeweler over four decades. It highlights jewelry that defined a pivotal period in Italian design, and includes pieces from the personal collections of Elizabeth Taylor, Ellen Barkin and other famous names. The exhibition will run through February 17, 2014.

Sautoir, 1969, platinum with sapphires and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Elizabeth Taylor. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 6675 N2170 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Bulgari notably began to create its own trademark in jewelry in the 1960s by embracing boldly-colored combinations of gemstones, use of heavy gold, and forms derived from Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. The company helped to develop a look that would come to be known as the “Italian school” of jewelry design. Pieces in the exhibition display the jeweler’s eclectic creativity and invention during this period.

Bracelets, 1955 and 1959; platinum with diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Ellen Barkin. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 4924 B527, 4925 B528 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Works in the exhibition also include those from the 1970s and 80s, a particularly innovative period for the jeweler and one influenced by Pop Art and other contemporary trends. 

“Parentesi” parure, ca. 1982; Gold with diamonds. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 5063 E173, 5068 N1500, 5072 B508 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

“The hard-edged designs of the 1970s included a whole range based on the Stars-and-Stripes motif, while in the 1980s the Parentesi collection had a smoother, modular, almost architectural presence; both show how the jeweler could lead in new directions with a strong sense of design,” said Martin Chapman, curator in charge of European Decorative Arts and Sculpture at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

“Bib” necklace, 1965; Gold with emeralds, amethysts, turquoise, and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Lyn Revson. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 401 N565. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte

Bulgari’s successful cultivation of prominent patrons and movie stars like Sophia Loren, Ingrid Bergman, and perhaps most notably, Elizabeth Taylor, has long been a key aspect of the jeweler’s reputation. 

To help explore the cultural context in which these objects were made, the exhibition will include sketches, photographs, and other archival materials that help to reveal an intersection of celebrity, design and fine craftsmanship.

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Stéphane Linder to Become CEO at Tag Heuer

Stéphane Linder

Luxury holding group, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, has named Stéphane Linder as the new chief executive officer of Swiss luxury brand Tag Heuer. The appointment will take effect June 1.

Linder, who is currently vice president of sales in North America for Tag Heuer, will replace Jean-Christophe Babin who was recently named CEO of Bulgari, also owned by LVMH. Babin replaces Michael Burke who LVMH appointed as head of Louis Vuitton.

Linder began his career with Tag Heuer in 1993 in the R&D Department, and held the positions of Product and Trade Marketing manager, R&D and Brand director, and VP of Marketing and Product Design before taking up his current position in 2010. 

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A Look at Gina Lollobrigida’s Bulgari Jewels

Natural pearl and diamond pendants, Bulgari, 1964, worn by Lollobrigida when she met Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967. Estimate: $600,000 - $1 million

Throughout her long and varied career as an actress, artist and humanitarian, one thing remained a constant in Gina Lollobrigida’s life: Her relationship with Italian luxury jewelry house, Bulgari.

19.03-ct. diamond ring, Bulgari, 1962; Estimate: $400,000 - $800,000

As previously reported, Lollobrigida is selling 23 pieces of jewelry from her Bulgari collection at Sotheby’s Geneva on May 14. Those who have followed the 85-year-old actress’ career, particularly during her height of international popularity in the 1950s and ‘60s, will recognize the items as they were all worn by her during special moments in her life.

Diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, worn by the actress as a tiara during her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female. Estimate: $300,000 - $500,000

The pictures that accompany this article are some of the highlights of the upcoming sale. Proceeds from the sale will benefit stem cell research, which she describes as a “very close cause to my heart.”

27.57-ct. emerald and diamond brooch, Bulgari, 1964; Estimate: $150,000 - $250,000.

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Emerald and diamond pendent ear clips, Bulgari, 1964. Surmounts are detachable and may be worn with the natural pearl and diamond pendants. Estimate: $150,000 - $250,000

Emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964. Set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats and framed by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. Estimate: $120,000 - $180,000

Film Star Gina Lollobrigida To Auction Her Bulgari Jewels For Charity

Gina Lollobrigida wearing the Bulgari diamond necklace and bracelet combination as a tiara & the pair of emerald and diamond earclips. The items are included in the auction at Sotheby's Geneva.

Actress and sex symbol, Gina Lollobrigida, will sell 23 jewels from her Bulgari collection at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale on May 14. The auction will feature important Bulgari jewels from the 1950s and 1960s, worn by Lollobrigida at landmark moments in her career. Proceeds from the sale will benefit stem cell research.

Key pieces from the collection will travel to Hong Kong, London, New York and Rome before returning for exhibition in Geneva in advance of the sale.

“I have been lucky enough to be given many roles in life – as an actor, a mother, a photojournalist, an ambassador for FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations), and as an artist,” Lollobrigida said. “I began collecting jewels from Bulgari in the 1950s and 1960s, drawn by the wonderful craftsmanship and distinctive style of these pieces. They accompanied me on many journeys—both professional and personal—and are redolent of those times and the extraordinary people I met along the way.”

She continued, “I have decided the time is right to share them with other collectors. In so doing, I can also help a cause very close to my heart, that of stem cell research – treatment, which I believe should be freely available to every child. It is my wish that part of the proceeds from the sale will contribute to help fund an international hospital for stem cell research.”

David Bennett, Sotheby’s Switzerland and jewelry, Europe and Middle East chairman, added: “These exceptional jewels are evocative of both a woman, and an era. Not only do they reflect Gina Lollobrigida’s brilliance, but they are among the finest designs created by Bulgari in the “dolce vita” years of the 1950s and 1960s.”

Highlights from the sale include:

* Diamond necklace and bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, (also worn by Miss Lollobrigida as a tiara) a favorite of Lollobrigida on landmark occasions, including receiving her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female (estimate, $300,000 - $500,000).

* Pair of natural pearl and diamond pendants, Bulgari, 1964, worn by Lollobrigida on numerous public occasions, including to meet Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967 (estimate, $600,000 - $1 million).

* Diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, Bulgari, 1962 (estimate, $400,000-800,000).

* Emerald and diamond earclips, Bulgari, 1964. Each earclip suspends a detachable pendant set to the center with a pear-shaped emerald (estimate $150,000 - $250,000).

* Emerald and diamond brooch set to the center with a step-cut emerald weighing 27.57 carats (estimate, $150,000 - $250,000).

* Emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats, framed by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds (estimate $120,000 - $180,000).

For her commitment to various humanitarian organizations, she was nominated first Ambassadress for the FAO in 1999 and has worked closely with UNICEF, UNESCO, Médecins Sans Frontières, Mother Theresa of Calcutta and children in Romania.

In 2007, she received the honor from the Republic of San Marino of becoming the only woman to be featured in a special edition of four postal stamps bearing her portrait – each depicting a different facet of her career – as actor, photographer, sculptor and humanitarian. In 2008, in Washington, the Italian-American Foundation NIAF awarded her the “Lifetime Achievement Award” in recognition of her artistic life.

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Bulgari Unveils Elizabeth Taylor’s Jewels

Julianne Moore wearing the Elizabeth Taylor emerald and diamond
necklace. Photo credit: Getty Images

Italian luxury jewelry house, Bulgari, officially opened its Rodeo Drive boutique Tuesday in true Hollywood fashion with an intimate viewing of some of its greatest creations owned by Elizabeth Taylor. It included the famed mirror Taylor used on the set of the movie, Cleopatra, a sapphire and diamond sautoir and a set of emerald and diamond jewelry.

Items on display at the Bulgari Rodeo Drive boutique. Photo credit: Getty Images

The highlight of the evening, according to reports, was when actress Julianne Moore, a longtime ambassador for Bulgari, strolled into the event wearing the emerald and diamond necklace from the suite, which features the 83.5-carat emerald pendant. It was the first time anyone other than Taylor had worn the necklace. Other Hollywood stars who attended the event included Kirsten Dunst, Drew Barrymore, Naomi Watts, and Clotilde Courau.

Drew Barrymore and the Cleopatra mirror. Photo credit: Getty Images

For those who did not receive an invitation, fear not, as the eight-piece exhibition—all purchased by Bulgari at the auction of Taylor’s jewelry at Christie’s New York in December—will be on display at the store until March 10.

View more pictures from the party on the Bulgari Facebook page by following this link.

Read more about the jewelry on display by following this link.

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Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari Jewelry Exhibit on Rodeo Drive

Elizabeth Taylor sapphire and diamond sautoir will be among the Bulgari jewels on display.

Elizabeth Taylor fans will have another opportunity to view some of the most important jewels from her legendary collection.

The Beverly Hills Bulgari boutique on Rodeo Drive will showcase an eight-piece exhibit of Elizabeth Taylor’s jewels on Tuesday, according to published reports. The jewels are on display as a preview to the Academy Awards, which will be held Sunday.

Emerald and diamond suite.

The Italian luxury jewelry house purchased its own pieces during the record-breaking auction of Elizabeth Taylor’s jewels held at Christie’s New York in December 2011. Among the items on display are an emerald and diamond necklace that it bought for $6.1 million, setting records for an emerald jewel and emerald per carat; and an 8.26-carat emerald and diamond pendant brooch that Bulgari purchased for $6.5 million (both pictured above as part of the emerald and diamond suite). The brooch was Taylor's first piece of Bulgari jewelry, according to reports.

Another item is a sapphire and diamond sautoir that Bulgari bought at the auction for $5.9 million (top photo).

A special preview of the display will be held Tuesday from 11:30 a.m. till 1:30 p.m., according to reports.

Follow this link to view more of Taylor's jewels from the Christie's New York auction.

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2012 Oscars Red Carpet Jewelry

Gwyneth Paltrow Wears Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie on the red carpet, including the Hearts of Winter cuff bracelet made of 2,368 rose-cut, round brilliant diamonds weighing 163 carats and valued at $1 million; and the double hoop Duchess Hibiscus Ring made of rose cut and round diamonds with purple sapphires set in 18-karat white gold and valued at $160,000. 

With a silent film taking the night’s biggest prizes and two Octogenarians nominated for Best Supporting Actor Oscars (one winning), it shouldn’t have come as a surprise that it was night of nostalgia when it came to red carpet fashion for the 84th Academy Awards. The jewelry worn by the movie industry’s biggest stars kept with that trend with classic designs and plenty of old-time sparkle.

Best Actress nominee, Michelle Williams, arrives at the 84th Annual Academy Awards in a 30-carat Fred Leighton diamond forevermark necklace. Photo credit: Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Green, the most popular color last year, was still very much in the limelight but shared the stage with red and blue. Necklaces were more difficult to spot than in previous years and the ones that were worn took to more traditional designs, such as riviera style necklaces, rather than the big, bold necklaces that some jewelry designers and luxury brands had ready for the stars to wear. Earrings were mostly kept to modest lengths. When size did matter it was used for rings and bracelets, such as large cuffs. Emerald and diamonds seemed to the most popular gemstones for the evening.

Natalie Portman wears a V-shaped diamond necklace and diamond earrings on the red carpet. Photo credit: Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Harry Winston and Fred Leighton were among the favorites of the actresses as were the Swiss brands, Chopard and Piaget. Hollywood’s popular jewelry designers, Lorraine Schwartz and Neil Lane, also had outstanding nights. Largely missing in action were the Italian jewelry houses, Bulgari and Damiani; and the French fashion houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier. Tiffany also had a quiet night, with the exception of placing $1 million worth of jewelry on Cameron Diaz.

Penelope Cruz wears a Chopard riviera style necklace and diamond ear clips. Photo credit: Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Overall, risk taking took a backseat to old Hollywood glamour. For the most part it was a good thing.

Cameron Diaz arrives on the red carpet wearing $1 million worth of Tiffany jewels, including the diamond necklace. Photo credit: Michael Buckner/Getty Images

Octavia Spencer, Best Supporting Actress, winner for The Help finished her look with Neil Lane jewelry and a Judith Leiber clutch. Photo credit: Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Jessica Chastain on the red carpet wearing Harry Winston jewels.

Milla Jovovich wears Jacob & Co.

The Iron Lady Meryl Streep wears Fred Leighton.

Emma Stone in Fred Leighton on the red carpet.

George Clooney's SO, Stacy Kiebler, wears Lorraine Schwartz.

Oscar-Worthy Jewelry

The Collier Entier Romanov by Fabergé is set with 2,225 gemstones totaling 363.48 carats. It includes 79 emeralds totaling 186.85 carats, featuring sugar-loaf cabochons and a single pear-shaped drop of 30.65 carats. The diamond include 1,991 round white diamonds totaling 98.15 carats, 151 rose cut diamonds, of 43.29 carats, 0.67-carat rose diamond, and a pear-shaped rose cut diamond of 3.48 carats. The choker detaches from the collar, allowing the two necklaces to be worn separately, while the choker can be worn alone or with the emerald drop pendant.

It’s not only Hollywood’s finest who will be under the glare of the international spotlight as they stroll the red carpet and appear on stage for the 84th Annual Academy Awards. What they wear will be under the scrutiny of fashion experts and the general public—and that includes the jewelry they choose.

Leading style expert Michael O'Connor—who is hosting StyleLab's styling event for Academy Award nominees, presenters and stylists—says that there will not be one dominate color this year. “Bright and vibrant colored gemstones that were big in past decades including pink, blue, orange and green, will make a resurgence.”

Academy Award winning actress Marcia Gay Harden checks out pink drusy earrings Pamela Huizenga in the StyleLab Suite at the 2012 Oscars. Photo credit: American Gem Trade Association

O'Connor, who curated a selection of one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces from world-renowned designers for celebrities to borrow for the red carpet, says large pieces will be prevalent on the Red Carpet, from “chunky cuff styles with geometric shapes and vintage designs” to “oversized drop or chandelier earrings that practically touch the collarbone.”

Elizabeth Taylor's Bulgari Sapphire and Diamond Sautoir. This sold for $5.9 million at Christie's Elizabeth Taylor auction. Will an item from the auction make an appearance on the Red Carpet Sunday? Photo credit: Christie's

Following Christie's Elizabeth Taylor auction, look for vintage pieces to take center stage as well. In fact, maybe statement pieces owned by the late movie star will make an appearance. After all, the renowned Italian jewelry house, Bulgari, reportedly purchased $20 million of its own jewelry at the auction. The speculation is that it will be used for a museum. What better way to announce the museum and make a bold statement than to have a multi-million piece of jewelry adorn one of the world’s top actresses.

Montblanc Collection Princesse Grace de Monaco Bracelet

Another company that is bringing in the nostalgia is Montblanc. It has created several lines of haute joaillerie, timepieces and writing instruments that honor the Hollywood actress and first lady of Monaco, Princess Grace. These items along with others by the venerable brand are being presented at its own “Styling Lounge” showroom.

The famed luxury jewelry house, Fabergé, has been making a comeback and it isn’t shy about letting Angelina Jolie know that it has an emerald and diamond necklace(top photo) that it wants the international star to wear. Set with 2,225 gemstones and 2,043 diamonds, the choker detaches from the collar, allowing the two necklaces to be worn separately, while the choker can be worn alone or with the emerald drop pendant.

Platinum, Tanzanite and diamond "Tokapi" detachable earrings by Gumuchian.

So be on the lookout for these sparkling items along with some glittering surprises when Hollywood’s finest stroll the red carpet tomorrow.