Four High Jewelers Bring New Life To Paris Biennale

A rare cat's eye ruby center's this sculptured ruby flower by Cindy Chao. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

It was my first time at the Paris Biennale des Antiquaires so while most of the news outlets focused on the venerable jewelers who chose not to exhibit at the fair this year, I was focused on those who did present their finest high jewels beneath the vaulted glass dome of the Grand Palais.

Out of the four high jewelers who did exhibit at the recently concluded event, only de Grisogono had done so previously. For Boghossian and Nirav Modi, it was their first time at the event. For Cindy Chao, it was her first ever public exhibition.

Cindy Chao's exhibition booth was so crowded at times it had to be roped off. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Chao also was the most anticipated of all the jewelers as it was the first time many people were able to see her jewels up close and in person. The Taiwanese jeweler specializes in artistic and exacting gem-encrusted one-of-a-kind pieces that could upwards of three years to complete—most notably her iconic gem-encrusted butterflies. Several times during the press preview her exhibition space was roped off because there were too many people inside.

Cindy Chao’s 2012 Black Label Masterpiece Butterfly. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Chao brought 12 new Black Label Masterpiece works celebrating her 12th year in business along with some of her other pieces.

A statement necklace with diamonds and collared gems with hidden settings by Boghossian. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Exceptional gems combined with fine craftsmanship are certainly the hallmarks of those who dabble in high jewelry. However, Boghossian turned this up a notch with innovations like hidden settings for diamonds and gems and working with a variety of materials. The family is fairly new as a high jewelry brand but goes back more than a century in the gem business gradually moving from the Middle East to Europe.

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

One of the most stunning pieces at the fair was a necklace set with 440.08 carats of Type A Jadeite beads in 18k white gold (pictured above). Albert Boghossian, who founded the high jewelry business based in Geneva, says the pieces tell the story of the diverse family heritage.

Geneva-based de Grisogono focused on statement pieces with large amounts of emeralds and diamonds that were both encrusted and cut in a number of ways. They were exclusively with white precious metals.

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Among the brand’s highpoints were a pair of fan-shaped diamond and emerald earrings set in titanium (pictured above); and a suite of encrusted emerald and diamond jewels, including a bejeweled watch, which featured these gems in briolette and square cuts.

Indian jeweler Nirav Modi presented a fanciful jungle-like display in its exhibition space, including bird sounds. One of its pieces, the Embrace bangle, expanded and contracted within the display 9video above). This innovative piece was complemented with a number of more traditional gem-heavy suites centered by large statement necklaces.

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

One standout was the “Water Lily Story,” (pictured above) inspired by Claude Monet paintings, which uses oval, pear, marquise and round diamond mixed with various collared gemstones.

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Cindy Chao’s Masterpiece Royal Butterfly Added to Smithsonian Gem Collection

Masterpiece Royal Butterfly, front view.

Cindy Chao has made a bit of history by becoming the first Taiwanese jewelry designer to have a work included into the Smithsonian Institute National Museum of Natural History.

Chao’s Masterpiece Royal Butterfly will be added to the museum’s celebrated gem collection on March 5 in the Janet Annenberg Hooker Hall of Geology, Gems and Minerals. The 2009 creation, part of Chao’s Black Label collection, was gifted to the museum by the artist.

The Royal Butterfly is composed of 2,328 gems, totaling 77 carats. The brooch is set with fancy-colored and color-changing sapphires (16.64cts.), rubies (8.74cts.), diamonds (19.67cts.), rough diamonds (16.63cts.), emerald-cut diamonds (1.64cts.), yellow diamonds (4.75cts.), fancy-colored diamonds (4.75cts.), and tsavorite garnets. The centerpieces of the butterfly’s wings contain four large faceted diamond slices stacked atop a pave layer of faceted diamonds, creating a pattern resembling the microstructure and scale of a living butterfly’s wings.

Masterpiece Royal Butterfly, back view.

When viewed under ultraviolet light, the brooch evokes what the Smithsonian describes as a “surreal quality,” with many of the gemstones appearing fluorescent and animate through an array of bright colors and reflected light. While some gems may appear colorless in daylight, under ultraviolet light they can burn a bright blue or green. Others burn a fiery orange or red.

Since the piece will be viewed by daylight, images of the Royal Butterfly under ultraviolet light will be featured on the museum’s website.

“The awe-inspiring array of colorful and glistening gems are indicative of Cindy Chao’s masterful designs,” said Jeff Post, curator of the museum’s Gems and Minerals collection. “She has artfully combined design, gem and setting to create a unique, exquisite jeweled butterfly.”

Chao’s artistry, her attention to detail and her architectural understanding is gained from her father who is a sculptor and her grandfather who was a noted Taiwanese architect.

She founded her company, Cindy Chao The Art Jewel, in 2004. In 2007, she became the first Taiwanese jewelry artist to take part in a Christie’s New York fine jewelry auction. Chao’s Black Label Masterpieces consist of one-of-kind jewelry artworks, limited to 36 pieces per year. Each Masterpiece is handcrafted over a period of at least two years, working from an original sketch and a wax mold and with rare, fine gemstones, which ultimately forges the three-dimensional works of art. Chao is considered by many to be one of the world’s most outstanding contemporary jewelry artisans, whose collections are pursued globally by influential and expert art connoisseurs.

“I believe that a piece of jewelry can reflect the history of an era, and being inducted into a leading institution like the Smithsonian is a dream for any artist, Chao said. “It is humbling to know that millions of visitors will be able to experience the Black Label Masterpiece Royal Butterfly brooch and be exposed to my art of high jewelry craftsmanship and creativity.”

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The Spectacular Jewelry News Network Jewelry Gift Guide

With just eight more shopping days left until Christmas, I put together a variety of jewelry items designed to inspire you to buy that special gift for those closest to you. What all of these pieces share are superior artistry, craftsmanship and beauty.

The Cindy Chao White Label Four Seasons Pepper Ring consists of sugarloaf color-change sapphire, diamonds and yellow diamonds set on 18k yellow gold. It's available at Bergdorf Goodman. Price upon request.

Limited to a run of 10, Alexandra Mor Asscher-Cut Diamond Earrings with each set crafted and signed by the New York City-based artist. Each earring contains an Asscher Cut diamond weighing 3.41 carats suspended from a .42-carat round diamond encircled with rows of 1mm of diamond melee totaling 8.49 carats set with platinum and 18k yellow gold. The price is $330,000 and it’s available at Dorfman Jewelers, 617-536-2022, dorfmanjewelers.com.

The center stone in the Amgad Red Diamond Flower Ring is a 0.48ct radiant shaped Fancy Purplish Red Diamond from the Argyle Mine in Australia, the world's top source for these rare colored stones. It's with 1.9cts. of colorless pear shape diamonds. Retail price: $350,000. To purchase the ring contact AMGAD at 212.719.4111 for a list of retailers.

Sethi Couture 18K Multi-Color Diamond Chandelier Earrings features 11.81 carats of fancy colored diamonds. Retail Price: $18,000. It is available at EB Horn, Boston, Mass.

The necklace features a 51.06-carat natural fancy black, pear shaped diamond. Rare in both size and natural-color achievement, it is adorned with fine white diamonds that includes a 1.68-carat shield shaped, E color, Internally Flawless diamond and 553 fine white diamonds totaling 14.35 carats. Retail price: $1 million. For purchasing information contact Ishay Ben-David Corp. at fancycolordiamond.net.)

A 2.02 grayish blue diamond and an 1.89 gray blue diamond center the earrings, which are finished with with 1.85 carats of pink diamonds. Retail Price: $3 million. It's available at Borsheims in Omaha, Neb., Borsheims.com.

Le Vian 18k Chocolate Diamond Necklace, features 7.27 carats of Le Vian's trademark Chocolate diamonds. Retail price: $46,097. Contact Le Vian at 877-2LEVIAN for an authorized retailer.

The Donna Distefano 18k gold, diamond and sapphire 'Mira' ring is made to order by the award winning goldsmith in her private atelier in New York City. The price is approximately $45,000 (each sapphire varies in price) and available by appointment at Donna Distefano, New York City 212.594.3757 or at donnadistefano.com.

The polished 18k rose gold cushions on the Fabergé Treillage Rose Gold Bandeau Rings along with the diamond studs give them a soft, pillow-like appearance. The large Bandeau ring is $8,492; and smaller Bandeau ring is $5,335. They are available at faberge.com.

Montblanc 4810 Star Pave Bracelet is made of 18k pink gold, the void in the iconic Montblanc star is filled with diamonds pave in different carat sizes to create sparkle. The cost is $4,300 and is available at Montblanc retail outlets.

The Nina Basharova Nest Brooch is made of Tahitian and South Sea pearls, champagne bezel-set diamonds and ostrich feathers, all set in18k gold. It retails for $17,800 and is available at David Orgell, 262 North Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, Calif.; (310) 273-6660. 

The Bizzotto Infinito Ring features 18k pink and white gold ring with two rows of diamonds It sells for $6,900. For purchasing information, contact; 760-832-2325; export@bizzottogioielli.com; bizzottogioielli.com.

The Ceramique "Lover's Ring" from Etienne Perret features interlocked 3mm bands in 18k gold & black gem ceramic. Retail price is $899. In cobalt chrome & black gem ceramic the price of this ring is $248. This style is also available with 3 interlocking bands, in a variety of metals for a range of prices. Its available at retail stores around the country (go to ceramicjewelry.com for a list of jewelers) or directly from Perret by emailing Etienne@EtiennePerret.com.

Lagos Sapphire Statement Necklace features beaded and fluted sterling silver surround 13 brilliant, blue pave gems (twc. 36.41). The necklace retails for $15,500 and is available on lagos.com.

The four-inch  Large 'Flower Urn' Diamond Earrings from Madyha Farooqui are made with Rose cut diamonds, 14k gold, rhodium plated silver & diamond pave. It retails for $12,750 and is available at Talisman Gallery at Harvey Nichols, London, or at www.madyhafarooqui.com.

The Mary Esses Large Cabochon Chrysoprase is framed by micro pave-set diamonds, set in a latticework of 18k gold and bezel-set diamonds. It retails for $8,300. It is available at Skibell Jewelers in Dallas, www.skibellfinejewelry.com.

The JJ Number 8 Oval Swirl Stud Earrings are a modern take on old Hollywood glamour with oversized Pink Opals surrounded in a swirl of white sapphires and set in fine sterling silver. It retails for $2,840 For more information, contact JJ Number 8 jewelry at WWW.JJNUMBER8.COM.

The Me&Ro 18k Gold Black Diamond Circle Teardrop Chain uses clusters of black diamond briolettes hand beaded with recycled 18k gold wire dangle throughout this limited edition chain. It measures 20 inches in length and the reflective deep black diamond beads range in size from 4x3mm to 6x4mm. Necklace fastens with a recycled 18k gold hook and eye closure. The approximate carat weight is 86.54. Retail price $18,000 and is available on meandrojewerly.com.

The Carrera y Carrera Danza Maxi Ring is made with 18k yellow gold ring with diamonds and is inspired by the movement in a dancer's skirt. It retails for $8,300 and is available at Neiman Marcus stores nationwide.

The 14k Rose Gold Ruby and Multi-Color Sapphire and Diamond Ring from Effy Jewelry retails for $2,750 and is available at www.EffyJewelry.com.

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