Winners Announced at Inaugural 'JNA Jewellery Design Competition'

Some of the finalists for the JNA Jewellery Design Competition

The winners of a new competition dedicated to design were announced Thursday during the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair.

The name of the awards program is the JNA Jewellery Design Competition for 2018/19.  The winners were named at a press event during the fair’s opening day attended by officials representing Informa Markets and JNA magazine, and corporate sponsors, Crossfor Co Ltd, Platinum Guild International (PGI) and the Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong (TPAHK).  The competition celebrates artistry, innovation and excellence in jewelry design and production.

Organizers and sponsors of the JNA Jewellery Design Competition during the announcement of the winners at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

The winners of the JNA Jewellery Design Competition 2018/19 are as follows:

* Dancing Stone Category – New Fashion Tech - “Heptagram” by Mami Ochiai of Japan

* Platinum Category – Platinum Attitude - “Star Lingers” by Liang Fan of China

* Tahitian Pearl Category – Asymmetric Perfection - “The Leonidas Man” set by Alessio Boschi of Italy

The winners will be featured at an awards presentation during at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Each winner will also receive a cash prize of $2,000, and have their creations showcased at the June and September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fairs.

The Leonidas Man by Alessio Boschi, one of the winners of the JNA Jewellery Design Competition

The competition’s judging panel was led by jewelry designer Fei Liu, who served as chair. He was joined by jewelry designer Robert Tateossian, visual artist Bradley Theodore, and publisher and editor-in-chief of the JNA group, Christie Dang. The three category judges were Hidetaka Dobashi, founder and CEO of Crossfor, Suzanne Wong, senior product manager of PGI, and Ida Wong, general manager of TPAHK.

The winners were selected out of 15 finalists across three categories, and evaluated against the criteria set by the organizers as well as the entries’ adherence to the respective themes. Of the 15 finalists, five were from China; three were from Taiwan; with the rest from Bulgaria, Egypt, Iran, Italy, Japan, Malaysia and the U.S.

The competition drew 2,588 entries from jewelry designers and students from 39 countries and regions.

Bollywood Star Priyanka Chopra Is The New Ambassador For High Jeweler Nirav Modi

Luxury diamond jeweler, Nirav Modi, named Priyanka Chopra the brand’s global ambassador. The Bollywood star will appear in a global photo and video advertising campaign for the high jewelry house.

The Indian actress, model, singer, film producer, philanthropist and Miss World 2000, is described by the Indian-based high jeweler as “a symbol for today’s women, inspiring them to be the best version of themselves.” In the U.S. she is known for her role as Alex Parrish, an FBI recruit in the TV drama Quantico. She is a regular on fashion catwalks, magazine covers and international red carpets. 

Nirav Modi is global high jewelry house, specializing in diamond jewels. It is named after its billionaire founder and creative director. 

Priyanka Chopra and Nirav Modi

“Priyanka Chopra embodies all the symbols of modern India while paving her own path, which also represents the ethos of our brand,” Modi said. “She strives to not only achieve, but also master, the unexpected, unheard of.… There is perfection in every aspect of her work. An inspirational icon, she shares a distinct spirit similar Nirav Modi–taking Indian excellence to the international stage.” 

Chopra added, “My association with Nirav Modi is like a meeting of minds in many ways. We are both fiercely proud of our heritage and are united by the idea of bringing a modern India to the global forefront. His jewels are one of a kind and effortless, with an understated elegance. I have worn the brand on many occasions and have always been impressed with the exquisite designs, the finesse, the clarity and femininity of the jewels. I’m looking forward to a wonderful association.” 

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Video: L’Dezen Celebrates Five Years

Payal Shah, founder of L'Dezen jewelry

Five years ago armed with a degree in architecture, a family business in the diamond industry, an obsession with entrepreneurship and a passion for design and fashion, 21-year-old Payal Shah created the L’Dezen fine jewelry brand.

The Hong Kong-resident became the ambassador of the brand, exhibiting at tradeshows around the world, becoming involved with the jewelry industry and consumers, and designing and producing diamond-centric jewels at a rapid pace. She has also amassed a huge social media following, showing the way for young and old to become enamored with fine jewelry. She also somehow found the time to get married.

I met Payal about five years ago, first at a trade show associated with Las Vegas jewelry week and then later in the year at the annual September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. I see her annually at these two events now. This blog at the time we first met was only a year old, so in a sense we were both just starting out. She explained to me her business and brand concepts and her designs based on sliced and rose-cut diamonds seemingly weaved into colorful 18k gold. Her pieces are often big and bold with unusual shapes that vary greatly. 

She impressed me enough that I first wrote about her on this blog and then later after I became the jewelry and watch correspondent for the Forbes website, where she has appeared since.   

Five years later the brand with the faux French name is worn by international celebrities and sold through retailers and online throughout the world. She also produced this video below.

There are still markets to capture and no doubt this smart, savvy and fashionable entrepreneur behind this strong and growing brand has a plan to do this. There’s little doubt her winning formula will continue to be successful.

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Hollywood Jewelry Fashion At White House Correspondents’ Dinner

Chanel Iman wore Harry Kotlar diamond earrings and Harry Kotlar bracelet

For better or worse politics in the US has largely become another form of entertainment. Nothing epitomizes this more than the White House Correspondents’ Association Dinner. Hollywood celebrities, political leaders, political opinion makers and White House reporters rubbed shoulders at the Washington Hilton Saturday night for the annual event that celebrated its 101st year. 

It began as a way to acknowledge award-winners, present scholarships, and give the press and the president an evening of friendly appreciation. White House correspondents often invited their favorite sources to the event. A few still do.

In recent years the celebrity guests, pre-dinner receptions and post-dinner parties have in many ways overshadowed the main event, which is largely a friendly roast of the president along with skits by journalists a d a well-known comedian as a featured speaker. I attended the correspondents’ dinner in 1998 and the post-dinner parties are fun. 

With stars comes fashion and with fashion comes jewelry and on this note several of Hollywood’s finest were well adorned. Among the standouts: 

Chanel Iman in Harry Kotlar diamond earrings and Harry Kotlar bracelet (top photo).

Jenna Dewan-Tatum in Casa Reale earrings and Casa Reale ring. 

Carla Gugino in Jewelmer south sea pearl earrings. 

Gina Rodriguez in Harry Kotlar diamond earrings, Harry Kotlar ring and Chimento bracelet. 

Bethany Mota in Brumani earrings.

Laverne Cox in Forevermark  by Natalie K Diamond Line Bracelet, Forevermark Diamond Drop Earrings, all in 18k white gold and Forevermark Cluster Shield Ring, in oxidized gold.

Darby Stanchfield in Forevermark By Pluczenik Integré Double Drop Earrings, Forevermark by Galili and Co. Diamond Line Bracelet, Forevermark by Natalie K Three Row Diamond Bracelet, Forevermark by Natalie K Line Bracelets and Forevermark Oval Swirl Ring, all in 18k white gold.

Hannah Davis in Arya Esha earrings and rings. 

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Red Carpet Jewelry at SAG Awards

Jennifer Aniston in an Amrit yellow gold jewelry chain

The Screen Actors Guild Awards Sunday presented a second opportunity for jewelry to shine on the red carpet. Although many of the outfits worn were bright and colorful, the jewelry that was was largely based on white metals and diamonds. 

There was a little bit more color present than during the Golden Globe Awards red carpet a few weeks earlier. But still white and conservative were the key themes again when it comes to jewelry. 

Below are some of the top looks of the evening:

Jennifer Aniston (top photo) was practically shimmering in yellow (her dress and even her skin). She wore a long gold Amrit jewelry chain accompanied by Fred Leighton yellow gold bracelets and earrings. It was one of the boldest statements on the SAG red carpet.

Maggie Gyllenhaal also delved into the yellow gold trend wearing Fred Leighton Victorian Gold pendant earrings and 1940s gold, peridot and diamond ring. 

However, the red carpet was most characterized by Reese Witherspoon displaying an elegant ensemble of more than $3.5 million worth of Harry Winston diamonds that included emerald-cut diamond drop earrings set in platinum, a 24-carat princess-cut diamond line bracelet set in platinum, and a cushion-cut pink sapphire & diamond cluster ring.

The Forevermark brand is dependent on white diamonds with white metals. Kaley Cuoco Sweeting was elegantly layered in a variety of pieces including Forevermark by Leo Schachter Flower Stud Earrings with Round Brilliant Forevermark Diamonds set in 18k white gold; two diamond and platinum Forevermark bracelets, and Forevermark diamond cuff set in 18k white gold.

Alysia Reiner was equally elegant wearing a full suite of diamond jewelry by Simon G. Jewelry in 18k white gold.

Patricia Arquette in Fred Leighton 19th Century gold pendant earrings.

Uzo Aduba in Forevermark by Rahaminov Diamonds, including Flower Cluster stud earrings; The Center of My Universe diamond ring; and diamond line bracelets, all in 18k white gold.

Laverne Cox in Forevermark Diamonds, including Forevermark by Natalie K The Center of My Universe bracelets; Forevermark pave oval ring; and Forevermark circle earrings, all set in 18k white gold.

Julia Louis-Dreyfus added a touch of color in Fred Leighton cushion cut diamond drop earrings with an amethyst and rose-cut diamond scalloped cluster ring.

A newcomer to the red carpet, Kimiko Glenn kept to the understated theme by with a contemporary look by wearing Dionea Orcini ear climbers. In white of course. 

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A Treasure of Jewelry at the Hong Kong Fair

Lacecap hydrangeas made of 18k white gold, diamond pavé  and the Japanese lacquer techniques, Makie and Urushi by Maillet D’Or.

I can get caught up on attendance and geopolitical issues and how it affects the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, but the event is first and foremost a jewelry show. As always there was plenty to behold, much more than this humble journalist can see in a few days.

Camellia flower brooches in 18k white and green gold, with diamonds, tsavorites and urushi Japanese lacquer by Maillet D’Or.

There were nearly 3,700 exhibitors this year, far more than any other jewelry trade fair in the world, providing everything one could ever possibly see in one place at one time in the world of jewelry. It includes pieces ranging from inexpensive mass produced products to exquisite examples of high jewelry art and materials ranging from silver and amber to the finest gems and diamonds.

Japanese coral ring by Maillet D’Or

I’ve included a brief listing of what I was able to discover at this year’s fair.

A variety of ring mounts by Gold Source Jewellery.

My biggest find is a Japanese family firm that specializes in handmade high and bespoke jewelry, Atelier Maillet D’Or, exhibiting under the brand, Okurado, produces nature inspired designs made of 18k yellow and white gold covered in diamond pavé. In some cases the colors of metals are mixed.

"Fortune" stackable rings in a variety of colors and designs by Gold Source Jewellery under its 5 Star Jewelry brand.

One of their unique attributes is the use of Japanese lacquer techniques. They also use enamel and Japanese coral in elaborate ways, such as camellia flower designs made of carved white coral and urushi lacquer.

Contemporary design for this white gold and diamond Ascension ring by Inspired Jewellery. 

The Japanese royal family and Prince Albert of Monaco are among those who admire and wear their works. Company president Hitoshi Okura said it was the first time the family firm was exhibiting at the show. They chose to be part of a group of jewelry designers in a booth provided by Frank & Label, a company that represents fine jewelry designers in China.

Colorful pave rings by Rodney Rayner.

At the other end of the spectrum there’s Gold Source Jewellery, which specializes in creating ring mountings, primarily for bridal jewelry as well as lines of colorful, affordable finished fashion jewelry pieces under the 5 Star Jewelry brand. The company produces thousands of pieces each month that are exported all over the world.

A variety of one-of-a-kind jewelry designs from L'Dezen Jewellery.

Then there’s a New Zealand firm named Inspired Jewelry that specializes in contemporary jewelry designs made primarily of white gold and platinum with diamonds. Invisible mounts and metals with unusual bends and curves are the basis of their architecture-inspired designs.

The company also has a second business providing design and marketing services to diamond manufactures who want to produce accessible finished jewelry pieces.

Also in the Frank & Label booth was UK designer Rodney Rayner, who specializes in bold and colorful jewelry created with a variety of precious materials. He says he sells his pieces just about everywhere in the world except, inexplicitly, in his home country.

Finally, there’s someone whom I’ve written about before, Payal Shah, owner of L'Dezen Jewellery, who is making quite a name for herself with her unusual shaped pieces finished with slice and rose cut diamonds mounted in 18k gold in various colors. The brand produces what seems like a near endless variety of one-of-kind designs. Her jewelry is becoming available at more retailers and appearing on celebrities, most recently on actress Sofia Vergara.

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De Beers CEO Talks Up Forevermark

Diamond drop earrings by Slane with 9.24 round brilliant "exceptional" diamond and 8.14 round brilliant "exceptional" diamond set in platinum.

Diamond brands are not new and in the past decade the number of brands has grown substantially. The effectiveness of diamond branding has been debated in the jewelry industry for just as long. As opposed to an LVMH handbag or Gucci shoes where the workmanship and logos are easy to see; a diamond’s attributes are extremely difficult to see with the naked eye.

The recent announcement that the Hearts on Fire diamond brand is being acquired by the Hong Kong-based retail giant, Chow Tai Fook, for $150 million, shows that at least some brands have real value. The “world’s largest pure-play jeweler” said it will sell the diamond brand through its retail network of more than 2,000 points-of-sale in the Hong Kong, Macau and Mainland China markets.

"Center of My Universe" fancy yellow diamond earrings by Premier Gem set in 18k white gold, 10.05 ctw.

Needless to say Philippe Mellier, De Beers Group CEO, is a believer in brands. Of course part of his job is to promote De Beers diamond brand, Forevermark. To do this he made a rare appearance in the US during Las Vegas jewelry week to help promote a new Forevermark marketing and advertising campaign for the US market.

“There is a demand for branded diamonds and discerning customers are looking for the very best with the name of De Beers behind it to certify that they are the shiniest, the best and what is very, very important is that they are responsibly sourced,” he said.

"PURE Collection" by Precision Set six prong solitaire ring set in platinum, 1.50 ctw.

Each Forevermark diamond has a unique identification number and the Forevermark icon inscribed on the diamond. The inscription is 1/5000th the depth of a human hair. Obviously it cannot be seen by the naked eye. All diamonds over a half-carat also comes with a Forevermark grading report.

“A discerning customer knows that the diamond he or she bought has been inscribed with the Forevermark and logo and the number that makes that diamond very unique and traceable,” he said.

All of the diamonds comes from nine De Beers mines (seven in southern Africa and two in Canada). De Beers’ hold over the diamond industry from mining to market isn’t what it used to be, but it still sells its diamonds through what are known as sights. Sightholders (diamond manufacturers and dealers) are approved by De Beers and are invited to buy diamond rough from its mines. The sightholders have the option of purchasing a box of rough without knowing what is inside based on a price set by De Beers.

"Center of My Universe" double cushion halo fancy yellow diamond ring by H.J. Namdar set in 18k white gold 4.27 ctw.

Among the sightholders are diamond companies that are approved to receive boxes with what Mellier described as containing the top five percent of rough diamonds from De Beers in terms of quality. The 30 diamond companies can do what they want with the rough, including the 5 percent gems. However, if they wish to sell them as Forevermark diamonds, either lose or in jewelry, they will need to return them to De Beers to have them inscribed.

“They are buying these boxes because they are suitable for Forevermark but they don’t always cut and polish them for Forevermark. They can do it for all of their applications,” he said. When they are cut and polished they send them to us for engraving and inscription and they all come with a Forevermark certificate.”

Diamond riviera necklace by Rahaminov set in platinum, 55.26 ctw.

The Forevermark brand was first launched in Hong Kong, China and Japan in 2008. It is now in 1,350 retail doors in 29 countries. Forevermark came to the US in 2011 and now is available at 400 doors. Mellier speaks with pride of the brand’s market reach and its recent milestone of inscribing its one millionth diamond. But sales are something that he didn’t discuss.

Mellier’s rare presence in the US was part of a big push by Forevermark during the annual tradeshows in Las Vegas. It included the first look of its latest US multi-media advertising campaign (“Promise”) that will launch in September and bringing in Waris Ahluwalia, a successful jewelry designer who is perhaps better known as an actor in Wes Anderson films. He designed a jewelry collection with Forevermark diamonds. In addition, throughout the Las Vegas jewelry trade fairs there were displays of Forevermark diamond jewelry created by the brand’s 30 or so diamond manufacturing partners. Mellier said Forevermark is looking for more partners.

Bridal jewelry will account for a little more than half of all Forevermark product, which I found surprising because De Beers pretty much invented the modern bridal jewelry industry in the US. Mellier said romance and emotion will continue to be the focus of the campaign and the jewelry but it will include milepost events throughout one’s life.

“We have all sorts of other jewelry because a lot of customers are repeats,” he said. “You only have one bridal but there are birthdays, wedding anniversaries and for this repeat purchase it’s obviously not bridal.”

The marketing and advertising campaign is designed to hit the target customer seven times, Mellier said. However, he admits that it will never be as prolific as its “A Diamond is Forever” campaign.

“We are unfortunately smaller than before,” he said. “At one time we had 80 percent of the world market. We are still by value the biggest company in the world with slightly more than a third of the world market so we spend according to our need and our volume. Forevermark is what we really want to focus on.”

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Queen Elizabeth Wears Tiara and Diamonds at French State Dinner

Queen Elizabeth II with French President Francois Hollande (left)
and her husband Prince Philip.

French President Francois Hollande honored Queen Elizabeth II with a state dinner Friday reportedly attended by seven monarchs and 10 presidents to commemorate the 70th Anniversary of D-Day. The jewelry worn by the queen at the historic event was appropriate for the grand occasion and nearly as compelling as her words in the speech she gave, which were described by London’s Daily Mail as “forceful and personal.” 

Consulting with Buckingham Palace Sunday and verifying that information with two of several blogs that follows the queen’s jewelry preferences, “From Her Majesty’s Jewel Vault,” “The Court Jeweller,” as well as The Royal Collection Trust website and Wikipedia, I was able to get a near complete picture of what she wore. 

Described by a Buckingham Palace spokeswoman as “Queen Mary’s Tiara,” I was able to learn that what she wore was “The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara,” which was a wedding present to Queen Mary in 1893 from a committee of girls representing Great Britain and Ireland. It is one of the current queen’s favorites, according to several sources. 

The queen also wore the “Coronation Necklace” and the matching “Coronation Earrings.” These are substantial diamond jewelry pieces with little adornment. A total of 26 large diamonds make up the necklace with the largest diamond suspended as a pendant. Matching diamond drop earrings make up the set. 

Thanks to From Her Majesty’s Jewel Vault,” I was able to identify the brooch on her red sash as the Queen Mother’s ruby and diamond bouquet brooch.

The queen also wore a diamond bracelet, rings and a watch, according to a Buckingham Palace spokeswoman. 

In case you're interested, below is a transcript of the speech given by the queen at the dinner:

Monsieur le President, The Duke of Edinburgh and I are delighted to be here this evening on this, our fifth State Visit to your country.

Our first visit together overseas was to France, in 1948: shortly after our wedding, and four years after D-Day.

I recall my own happiness, discovering this beautiful country for myself and for the first time, and developing my own great affection for the French people.

Wherever two or more of our countrymen gather, there one finds the unique mixture of friendship, good-humoured rivalry and admiration that is the essence of Anglo-French relations.

But tonight, stirred by the day’s commemorations, we are also filled with other emotions:

With sorrow and regret, remembering the loss of so many fine young soldiers, sailors and airmen;

With pride, at the sheer courage of the men who stormed those beaches, embodied in the veterans among us;

And with thankfulness, knowing that today our nations are free and sovereign because allied forces liberated this continent from occupation and tyranny.

Knitted together by common experiences of struggle, sacrifice and reconciliation, we remember those times in a way that strengthens unity and understanding between us.

In that spirit, I venture three observations:

The first is that the true measure of all our actions is how long the good in them lasts.

Each year has compounded in Europe the benefits of our victory in the Second World War, since it enabled our subsequent successes and our achievements. Seen in that light, those heroic deeds will stand out as much in 700 years as they do after 70.

In an age of instant news and instantaneous judgment, it reminds us that we should weigh our actions not by immediate acclaim, but by their benefit for future generations.

This leads me to my second observation, which is that everything we do, we do for the young.

Since my last State Visit I have had the joy of becoming a great-grandmother.

The hopes and innate potential of young people are the same in all nations and on all continents.

The decisions we make should always be designed to enlarge their horizons and enrich their future, from caring for our environment to preventing conflict.

Our peace and prosperity can never be taken for granted and must constantly be tended, so that never again do we have cause to build monuments to our fallen youth.

My third observation is that our two nations, Britain and France, have a particular role to play in this effort.

We are two of the trustees of international peace and security, and we are both ready and equipped to aid those threatened by poverty or conflict.

We are famously proud of that which is particular to each of our peoples, and rejoice in our cultural differences.

But there is also great inspiration to be found in what we represent together:

Two democracies who have faced grave perils and emerged stronger together.

And two of the world’s most successful economies, working together on the technologies of the future, and making a vast contribution to the development of other nations.

All this rests on the efforts of thousands of people who have made the Channel not a dividing line but a trait d’union.

It gives immense confidence in the future of relations between us.

Monsieur le President, Ladies and Gentlemen, I pay tribute to the nation of France, as Kipling wrote: 

“First to follow Truth and last to leave old Truths behind – France, beloved of every soul that loves its fellow-kind!”

And I ask you to join me in a toast to the French Republic, to the President and to the people of France.

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World’s Largest Flawless Vivid Blue Diamond May Fetch $25 Million

The Blue

A 13.22-carat blue diamond is the lead item at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale May 14. Known as “The Blue,” the auction house says it is the largest flawless vivid blue diamond in the world. It has a pre-auction estimate of $21 to $25 million.

The Ocean Dream

Another highlight of the 250-lot auction at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues is what the auction house is calling the largest fancy vivid blue-green diamond in the world to come to auction. Known as “The Ocean Dream,” the 5.50-carat gem has an estimate of $7.5 to $9.5 million. “The combination of its size, natural origin, hue, and saturated color makes it an extremely unusual occurrence,” Christie’s said in a statement.

Other diamonds expected to generate strong international interest include a 76.51-carat light pink cut-corned diamond set as necklace centerpiece by diamond dealer Lev Leviev with an estimate of $7 to $10 million (pictured above); and a 75.97-carat pear-shaped D-color flawless diamond with an estimate of $13.5 million to $15 million (pictured below).

The 250 lot sale is estimated to fetch a total of $80 million, Christie’s said. It includes the following:

* A collection of 14 jewels from a “European Gentleman” under the heading, “A Passion for Jewels.” It includes the Rajah diamond, a 26.14-carat, old-mine brilliant-cut diamond with an estimate of $3 to $5 million. 

* Another highlight of “A Passion for Jewels” collection is the Belle Époque Devant-de-Corsage brooch, crafted in 1912 by Cartier. It is estimated to fetch $7 million to $12 million. 

* 20 pieces from the Estate of Baroness Thyssen-Bornemisza de Kaszon will be another highpoint of the auction led by a natural pearl and diamond necklace estimated at $550,000 to $700,000.

* A five-strand necklace composed of 87, 81, 76, seventy-one and 65 natural pearls with an estimate of $2 to $3 million.

* A 21.41-carat cushion-shaped Alexandrite with no indications of treatment and a distinct color-change from green to purple with an estimate of $500,000 to $700,000. 

* A necklace made of seven Mughal engraved spinel beads that date back to the 17th century with an estimate of $1.5 to $2 million. 

* A three rectangular-cut diamond ring designed by JAR with an estimate of $330,000 to $460,000. Proceeds will benefit Ospendale Pediatrico Bambino Gesu in Rome and the Pediatric department of the Ospedale San Paolo in Milan.

* Mystery-set ruby and diamond ear pendants, entitled Entrée en scène, was part of the “Une journée à Paris collection Van Cleef & Arpels launched in 2006 as an homage to Paris. It has an estimate of $200,000 to $310,000.

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Pope Paul VI Diamond Jewelry Once Owned By Evel Knievel Available for $1.9 Million

Pope Paul VI's Diamond Cross and Ring in Case

It was first owned by Pope Paul VI (1963 – 1978) and after changing hands numerous times it last appeared three years ago on eBay. Now the diamond pectoral cross and ring has reappeared. This time at M.S. Rau Antiques in New Orleans where the items are now on sale for $1.9 million.

Did I mention that daredevil Evel Knievel once owned the jewels?

“Not only are these two pieces historically significant, they are remarkable due to the fact that Papal jewelry rarely comes on the market,” said Bill Rau, owner of the fine art and antiques business.

Pope Paul VI’s Diamond Cross

The intricately carved 18k yellow gold cross is 7 inches in length and decorated with diamonds and Colombian emeralds. Twelve mine-cut diamonds, ranging in size from 3 to 8 carats with VVS and VC clarity, run the length and width of the cross totaling more than 60 carats. The emeralds and smaller diamonds fill in the 18k carvings of scrolls and leaves along the edges of the cross.

The cross bears a stamp of “Cassio,” which refers to Cassio Studios, one of the artisan ateliers at the service of the Vatican, Bill Rau said. It is valued by the antique dealer at $1.25 million.

Pectoral crosses are given to clergy who attain the rank of bishop or higher.

Pope Paul VI’s Diamond Ring

The ring is centered with a 13-carat white diamond surrounded by 14 smaller round diamonds totaling 3.5 carats. It is set in platinum and flanked by two diamond pavé squares on either side inset with a cross made of rubies. It is valued at $650,000.

Both the ring and cross are engraved with the Christian Chi Rho symbol, which indicates that both were most probably made by Vatican jewelers in the early 1900's with existing jewels from the Vatican's own collection, Bill Rau said.

According to documents provided by the Vatican, Pope Paul VI made an historic visit to the UN to address the General Assembly in 1965 and at that time requested that these two pieces of jewelry be auctioned with the proceeds going to human relief funds.

The auction took two years to prepare and was handled by Parke-Bernet, the nation's largest fine art auction house until it was acquired by Sotheby's in the late 1960's. An eight-page brochure about these two pieces was printed for this unusual sale which took place in November, 1967. Chicago jeweler Harry Levinson bought both pieces of jewelry for $64,000 and the entire amount was divided between four UN agencies.

After that, the two pieces of jewelry were bought and sold several times. At one point they were even owned by Evel Knievel. According to published reports, the items were last placed on public sale by Perry’s Emporium, a Wilmington, N.C., jewelry store, whose owner, Alan Perry, placed the pieces on eBay with a starting bid of $850,000. Perry reportedly was selling the jewelry on behalf of a widow whose husband had purchased the ring and cross in the 1970s.

There is no word on whether they ever sold. A call made to Alan Perry was not returned.

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Martin Katz Celebrates New York With Jewelry Collection and Hotel Suite

Pear-shaped rose-cut cognac diamonds of 6.43 carats surrounded by a mirco-set border of cognac and white diamonds; topped with two kite diamonds of 4.03 carats, four round brilliant diamonds of 0.95 carats and anchored by 10 channel set baguettes.

Los Angeles-based luxury jeweler designer Martin Katz has done something that may seem a bit outside his toolbox by designing a 5,000-square-foot luxury suite at the renovated Towers at The New York Palace hotel. To mark the opening of the space, he also released a colorful and architecturally driven New York-themed jewelry collection.

The first floor salon of the Martin Katz Jewel Suite, one of two signature suites as part of the $140 million renovation of The New York Palace hotel in Midtown Manhattan.

“There’s nothing like it in New York,” he said of the Midtown Manhattan hotel suite.

Known as the “Martin Katz Jewel Suite,” it includes a two-story, 20-foot “Waterfall of Diamonds” chandelier, along a grand stairway, a 10-seat dining room, an indoor-outdoor entertainment space with a wood burning fireplace and outside whirlpool. The living room on the 53rd floor has 15-foot windows with a view of both the Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building.

A 13.18-carat oval Mexican fire opal serves as a center stone of this ring extended by flames of green tsavorite garnets and orange-red sapphires.

Nearly everything in the Art-Deco themed space was designed or specified by Katz (in collaboration with interior design and architectural firm, BBG-BBGM) and represents his 25-year history as a jewelry designer. Original artworks (photographs, paintings and other works) throughout the space represent some of his iconic jewelry lines. For example, his circle pendant necklace motif was used as a dome on a light fixture and a glass etching in a circular window. A rotating collection of his jewelry, many loaned by clients, are displayed gallery style in the foyer. Lavender runs throughout the space in the fabrics and wall treatments.

The terrace has a rare view of both the Empire State Building and the Chrysler Building and has a hot tub (not shown). 

As Katz showed me around the suite I asked him how difficult it was to branch out into interior design. “It was easy,” he said. “Just like designing my home.”

The price of the suite matches the sky-high view at $25,000 per night. However, there are some unusual extras, such as a Martin Katz microband ring and, if desired, a free consultation with the jeweler. There’s also an “Ultimate Proposal” package starting at $50,000 a night that includes a private consultation with Katz for the creation of a custom-designed engagement ring and/or wedding bands, and a private dining experience for two.

Vintage tassel style earrings with two cushion rose cut diamonds weighing 7.39cts, two round diamonds weighing 1.15cts, 40 baguette diamonds and microset with 62 diamonds.  Set in 18K white gold.

To coincide with the suite being opened to the public, Katz has released a new line of jewelry using architectural shapes and Art Deco themes based on the New York skyline.

Katz is known for his high-quality diamond jewelry, pioneering micro pavé settings, and for his stackable “Microbrand” rings. However, during the past few years he has been using a variety of colored gems and this collection shows this.

The grand stairway with the 20-foot-high “Waterfall of Diamonds” chandelier and gallery style showcases that contain a rotating collection of Martin Katz jewelry.

The details of the work, such as the fine micro pavé settings and the unusual-shaped gems are among the signatures of Katz’s jewelry.

“I approach things for true design and without concern for the difficulty and cost of making it. I become really picky with the stones I choose and even pickier with how to mount them,” he says. “What I come up with is something that reflects a deep passion and vision. I’m not completely sure what I’m looking for but I know it when I get there.”

Triangle shaped black opal and diamond pave' drop earrings set in blackened 18K white gold; two pear shape stained glass opals weighing 4.31cts and microset with 172 diamonds. 

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A 17.56-carat pale blue Burmese sapphire is accented with two trapezoid diamonds and microset with white diamonds and blue sapphires.