Ariana Grande Sparkles In Chopard Jewels On Jimmy Fallon Show For Christmas

I’ve never seen a performance by Ariana Grande and now I understand the hype. Wearing an oversized red Christmas sweater with a snowflake motif and dripping in Chopard diamond jewels, she spread Christmas cheer with the debut performance of her new song, Imagine, on the “Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon.” 

Backed by “The Roots,” the singer and band were tight throughout the song highlighted by complex rhythms and increased emotional tension that finished with virtuosic flair as the singer hit notes so high they sounded like whistles. 

Grande wore a necklace featuring a 5.01-carat heart-shaped brilliant-cut diamond and 10.31 carats of diamonds set in 18k white gold. Stud earrings centered with a 6.90-carat heart-shaped brilliant-cut diamond and a 6.69-carat heart-shaped brilliant-cut diamond and more diamonds set in 18k white gold, both from the “Haute Joaillerie Collection.” She matched this with a ring from the “L’Heure Du Diamant Collection” that contains 6.06-carats of diamonds set in 18k white gold; and a ring from the “Precious Chopard Collection” featuring 5.79-carats of rubies with diamonds set in 18k white gold.

There are lots of ways to spread holiday cheer, this year I chose this remarkable performance to do it. Happy Holidays.

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37-Carat 'Raj Pink' Diamond Could Fetch $30 Million

The 37.30-carat "Raj Pink" diamond will be the top lot at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale on November 15 with a hefty estimate of $20 million - $30 million.

“The discovery of any pink diamond is exceptional, but The Raj Pink’s remarkable size and intensity of color places it in the rarefied company of the most important pink diamonds known,” said David Bennett, worldwide chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division. 

According to Sotheby’s, the rough diamond that yielded The Raj Pink was studied for over a year after its discovery in 2015. It was then entrusted to a master cutter, who crafted it into a cushion-modified brilliant cut.

The diamond was named by its current owner, who requested anonymity. Its meaning is based on the Sanskrit word for king. 

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), in its report characterized the diamond as an “astonishing stone,” describing its hue as “a very bright and ravishing fancy intense pink color,” adding, “For a diamond to display strong, unmodified pink color like that observed in The Raj Pink is rare, particularly at so considerable a weight.”

The discovery of a gem-quality pink diamond of any size is an extremely rare occurrence. Of all diamonds submitted to the GIA each year, fewer than 0.02% are predominantly pink, Sotheby’s said.

The current record holder for a fancy intense pink diamond is the 24.78-carat “Graff Pink,” which sold for more than $46.1 million at Sotheby’s Geneva, 2010.

“Only on the rarest occasions do diamonds with vibrant, shocking color like the Raj Pink’s emerge,” GIA said. “Only the most privileged and knowledgeable in the industry know of their existence. With an unmodified Fancy Intense Pink hue, substantial size and desirable clarity, the Raj Pink is certainly one of those gems that only few may have the honor of experiencing.” 

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House Of Garrard Opens Its First Boutique In Shanghai

The entrance of the new Garrard boutique in Shanghai

The House of Garrard has set up a shop in Shanghai to introduced Chinese citizens and tourists to the heritage of the world’s longest serving fine jeweler, while browsing the collections that include bridal jewelry, tiaras and rare gems. 

The boutique is located in the Bund district in the longest baroque style building in China built in 1911, which also happens to be the same year that Garrard opened its flagship store in London. 

To celebrate the launch of the boutique, the British jeweler has drawn inspiration from its heritage and created a selection of one-of-a-kind pieces exclusive to Shanghai. The Emerald Ivy suite is a combination of emeralds and brilliant diamonds consisting of earrings, bracelet and a transformable necklace that can be worn in three different ways. In addition, there’s the Eternal Fringe suite, a necklace and earring combination containing more than 40 carats of diamonds, and the Azalea Tiara, an all-diamond headpiece that reflects the romantic royal heritage of Garrard.

The Emerald Ivy transformable necklace

Other lines housed in the new boutique include Garrard’s iconic Wings collection and the new Enchanted Palace collection, a whimsical and modern take on the Great Exhibition of 1851, held in London. Garrard has a strong reputation for designing bespoke pieces and this will continue in Shanghai with clients being able to work with the London design team to create one-offs.

“We are incredibly proud and excited to be bringing The House of Garrard directly to the Chinese market with the opening of our Shanghai boutique,” said Joanne Milner, CEO of The House of Garrard. “We are confident that our iconic collections and bespoke designs, coupled with our long standing British heritage will find a happy home in one of the most dynamic and exciting cities in the world.”

A rendering of the Azalea Tiara 

The House of Garrard is known for working closely with the British Royal Family throughout the jeweler’s storied history. First commissioned in 1736 by Fredrick, Prince of Wales, and appointed crown jewelers by Queen Victoria in 1943, Garrard has served each subsequent monarch since. The House has created iconic tiaras which are still worn at state occasions as well as the sapphire cluster engagement ring worn by Princess Diana and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge. 

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Chinese Conglomerate Completes Acquisition Of Buccellati

Gangsu Gangtai Holding has completed its acquisition of Italian high jewelry house Buccellati. 

The Chinese conglomerate has acquired an 85% stake in the luxury jeweler, internationally known for its time-honored hand-crafted techniques developed in Italy. The transaction price was based on an equity value of €230 million ($271 million) for 100% of the company.

Gangtai says it plans to both sustain its presence in existing markets—namely Italy, Europe and North America—and to develop in the new markets—such as China, Asia, the Middle East and Eastern Europe—with a five-year investment of €200 million ($236 million) that will fund 88 new Buccellati boutiques.

The deal was first announced in December 2016 and the closing was completed Tuesday at a press conference in Milan. In attendance was Xu Jiangang, founder and chairman of Gangatai Group, Andrea Buccellati, who will maintain his position as creative director, and Gianluca Brozzetti, who will continue as honorary chairman and CEO.

Buccellati, founded in Milan in 1919, is one of the most prestigious jewelers in Italy. It was family owned until 2013 when Clessidra, an Italian investment holding company, acquired a 67 percent stake of the company, with the remaining 33 percent retained by the founding family. 

With the new agreement Clessidra and the Buccellati family will retain the remaining 15 percent stake in the company. In addition, all jewelry making will remain at Buccellati’s headquarters. 

“Our will is to maintain Buccellati’s identity while enhancing all of the elements which make it one of the best known brands worldwide in the fine jewelry sector, including its craftsmanship, design and originality, which are the heritage of Italian jewelry,” Xu Jiangang said. 

“It is the will of the new shareholder,” Andrea Buccellati added, “to preserve the company’s uniqueness, especially its excellence, craftsmanship and quality. In this respect, Gangtai Group’s recommendation to keep the production in Italy represents a solid commitment.”

Gangtai Group is a privately held conglomerate in the consumer, culture, finance and health industries with a capitalization of approximately $3.5 billion and revenues of more than 1.4 billion. Its subsidiary, Gangsu Gangtai Holding (Group) Co. Ltd, is one of largest gold jewelry distributers and a leading internet jewelry retailer in China with more than 1.200 employees, and is focused on growing its presence in international luxury. 

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Bulgari’s High Jewelry Collection Is A Colorful Italian Celebration

Platinum necklace set with a 19-carat cushion Sri Lanka sapphire, 17 South-sea pearls, 82 emerald beads, nine sapphires beads, 40 fancy diamonds and diamond pavé

There are few countries in the world whose people know how to celebrate life like Italy.

The Italian luxury brand, Bulgari, known nearly as much for presenting a lavish lifestyle as for its luxurious jewels, has put together a collection of more than 100 colorful jewels and watches that represents the diversity of Italian celebrations.

Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari Jewelry Creation & Gem Buying director, said the new collection named “Festa” (Italian for party) is inspired by the celebrations held throughout the country. It includes historical and modern-day festivals as well as children and adult celebrations. Some of the jewels are linked to women of Italian royalty known for their outrageous lives, loves and festas.

This horse head brooch is made with 18k white gold with 26 rubies, 24 trapezoidal step diamonds and diamond pavé

“The main inspiration of the Festa collection is happiness. Joy, and sharing that joy with others in a public or private celebration is very much part of the Italian art de vivre,” Silvestri said. “This is something you can find in Rome, in Venice, in Tuscany, in Puglia, everywhere in Italy. The Festa runs deep in our way of life. The theme is closely linked to Bulgari, as one of the purposes of our jewels is to give joy and happiness to the women who wear them.”

This gift wrapped necklace is made of 18k pink gold with yellow green chalcedony, 38 diamonds and diamond pavè

Two pieces in the collection, the Palio necklace and bracelet, refer to the Tuscan city of Siena and its legendary horse race: the Palio, which dates back to the Middle Ages. The race normally takes place twice a year in July and August. The colors of Siena’s 17 contrade (districts), whose riders participate in the race, are included in the two jewels. Silvestri said Bulgari worked for months in close collaboration with city authorities to get the 17 colors of the contrade right. Two necklaces and two pairs of earrings are inspired by two of the 17 contrade: la Pantera and la Lupa. Horses used in the races are present in the form of in diamond, ruby and onyx brooches.

This sweet ice cream treat is a brooch made with 18k pink gold with three buff-top rubies and diamond pavé

The Tarantella—a rapid whirling dance celebration in southern Italian regions of Calabria, Puglia and Sicily—is often performed at weddings and private celebrations. However, there’s an annual festival where people can dance until dawn. A necklace in the form of spiders’ nests; and two sautoirs, a bracelet and a pair of earrings are inspired by the popular folk dance.

Platinum necklace set with a 26-carat round cabochon Colombia emerald, 47 round brilliant cut diamonds, 90 buff top Emeralds, 36 baguette cut diamonds and diamond pavé

Some of the jewels in the collection are designed to bring back childhood memories with the use of gold, enamel, diamonds, tourmalines, turquoises, coral and jade. Bulgari calls them “happy jewels,” which range from sweet desserts to party favors. They include rings that depict pistachio, lemon and raspberry, chocolate and cream cakes. Precious balloon necklaces and earrings made of gold, diamonds and colored gems are also part of the collection.

This platinum necklace is mounted with a 53-carat round Colombia emerald, eight pear shaped diamonds, eight emeralds, 31 pear-shaped diamonds and round diamond pavè

“We have explored new alliances of stones and colors,” Silvestri said. “In some jewels, the green of emeralds is mixed with the blue of sapphires and the pink of spinels.”

Rome, the home of Bulgari, gets special recognition with a number of pieces, including the Monete Secret-Watch pendant is a statement piece. A silver tetradrachm (an Ancient Greek silver coin) depicting the profile of Alexander the Great, the King of Macedonia and Conqueror of the Persian Empire, decorates the front cover of the octagonal pendant—made of pink gold, diamonds and rubies— opens to reveal a skeletonized dial, exposing the in-house tourbillon caliber BVL 208.

18k pink gold necklace set with five pink rubellite tourmalines, four purple double rose amethysts, 83 bead sapphires (31,84 ct) and diamond pavé

Others pieces that reflect the “Eternal City” are a ruby ring that depicts the Piazza Navona; and a 12.10-carat ruby set in the pendant of a necklace surrounded by diamonds. The color represents the official coat of arms of the city.

Platinum ring centered with a 15-carat emerald-cut diamond (D FL) and diamond pavé

More than 30 jewels are dedicated to three Italian princesses: Maria Mancini, Principessa Colonna (1639-1715), Paolina Bonaparte, Principessa Borghese (1780-1825), and Margherita di Savoia, Regina d’Italia (1851-1926). Among the highlights are a sautoir set with a 26.10-carat cabochon emerald, a 41.98-carat bead emerald and 104 South Seas Akoya pearls; a ring and necklace set with a cabochon emerald; and a secret bangle-watch.

Bulgari's new collection brings la dolce vita to high jewelry.

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Inaugural TEFAF New York Spring Fair Focuses On Modern And Contemporary Art And Design

Comes d'Abondance earrings containing 62 pebble rubies from Mozambique, 398 diamonds and 304 round cut rubies set on white gold with some parts plated in black rhodium 

TEFAF's venture into the U.S. continues with the inaugural TEFAF New York Spring Fair at the Park Avenue Armory May 4 - 8, with the opening VIP preview on May 3. The fair will feature 92 dealers from around the world who specialize in Modern and Contemporary Art and Design. In addition, there will be dealers exhibiting jewelry, African & Oceanic art, and antiquities. 

This fair follows the first edition of TEFAF New York Fall, launched in October 2016 at the Park Avenue Armory, concentrating on fine and decorative art from antiquity to 1920. 

TEFAF, The European Fine Art Fair, is best known for the TEFAF Maastricht art fair in The Netherlands. It is considered to be one of the world’s leading art fairs.

In what will likely be a tradition of the TEFAF New York fairs in the spring and fall, The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering will host the inaugural “Opening Night” festival on Wednesday, May 3, providing an exclusive and private preview of the fair’s pieces before it opens to the public the following day. 

A fibula brooch by Joel Arthur Rosenthal (JAR), made of tourmaline, garnet and diamond, Paris, circa 1993. Presented by Simon Teakle Fine Jewelry

Proceeds from the opening event will benefit The Society’s patient care, research and education programs at MSK. More than 2,000 high profile guests from the fashion, art, philanthropic and design are expected to attend. 

Exhibitors who deal in antique and period pieces will be exhibiting items from JAR, Bulgari and jewelry creations from leading artists, including Max Ernst, Gio Pomodoro and Louise Nevelson. 

Place Vendôme jeweler, Reza, is the lone contemporary high jewelry artist exhibiting, bringing a number of pieces defined by exceptional gems and a sleek, understated approach to traditional jewelry design. 

A necklace by Gio Pomodoro Made up from five irregular textured 24k gyellow gold placquettes, further decorated with 18k yellow gold kinetic armatures, kinetic ball, melted granules, and white gold highlights, and set with circular-cut emeralds. Presented by Didier Ltd. 

Among the world-class art dealers exhibiting at the fair are Acquavella Galleries, Applicat-Prazan, Di Donna, Richard Green, Hauser & Wirth, Paul Kasmin, Sean Kelly, Eykyn Maclean, Helly Nahmad, Lisson Gallery, Galerie Perrotin, Christophe van de Weghe, White Cube and David Zwirner.

For information and tickets to the “Opening Night of TEFAF New York Spring” event, contact Ali Warlich, The Society of MSK, at warlicha@mskcc.org, 212.639.7972. Tickets can also be ordered online. 

Single entry tickets to TEFAF New York Spring are $50 for adults and $25 for full-time students with a valid ID. Multiple Entry tickets are $75. They can be purchased online. 

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Artist Jewels, Led By Andrew Grima, Featured At Bonhams London Auction

Gold, diamond and fire opal brooch/pendant, 1970, by Andrew Grima.  All photos courtesy of Bonhams except where noted

All of the big names, including Cartier, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels, will be part of the Bonhams London Fine Jewelry sale on April 27. However, the auction house will also feature the works of several contemporary jewelry artists, led by Andrew Grima.

Jean Ghika, head of Jewellery for Bonhams UK & Europe, was particularly excited about the five pieces by Grima that will be included in the sale. She says the Anglo-Italian jewelry designer, known for his modern works in the 1960s and ’70s, is a “pioneer of his day” who placed a strong emphasis on textures and conceptual designs.

“It wasn’t about the stones but the concept,” she said during a recent meeting at Bonhams London headquarters. “He was very instep with the changing trends. He represented an interest in jewelry as an art form rather than a conglomerate of stones.”

The Grima pieces she highlighted are:

Jean Ghika, head of Jewellery for Bonhams UK & Europe
displays the Andrew Grima pendant. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

A gold, diamond and fire opal brooch/pendant, 1970, with the oval-cut opal set among an abstract arrangement of textured 18k gold cinnamon sticks, with a brilliant-cut diamond accent. Its estimate is £5,000 - £7,000 ($6,275 - $8,800).

A rutilated quartz, cultured pearl and diamond torque necklace, 1990, with the textured torque suspended at the front by a carved rutilated quartz “apple” with brilliant-cut diamond highlights, surmounted by a grey cultured pearl and brushed leaves. Its estimate is £7,000 - £10,000 ($8,800 - $12,500).

A color change sapphire and diamond ring, 1977, with a cushion-shaped, unheated Sri Lankan sapphire set within an abstract surround of brilliant-cut diamonds mounted on stalks. Its estimate is £5,000-7,000 ($6,275 - $8,800).

The auction of 141 lots will offer a breadth of jewels including signed pieces, antique items and colorful gems. 

The top lot is a Van Cleef & Arpels ring featuring a 10.28-carat E color marquise-cut diamond set between pear-shaped diamonds with an estimate of £150,000 - £200,000 ($188,200 - $251,000).

Signed jewels
The top three items in this group are:

A diamond 'Fuchsia' brooch and earring suite by Van Cleef & Arpels is among the top items in this group. The brooch is designed as a fuchsia flower head, its petals pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and its stamen reveals an articulated cascade of pear-shaped diamonds. Its estimate is £70,000 - £100,000 ($87,800 - $125,500).

In addition, the auction will offer an Art deco diamond bracelet by Cartier, circa 1925. Signed “Cartier Londres,” the finely pierced articulated geometric strap is decorated with cushion-shaped old brilliant and single-cut diamonds. Its estimate is £20,000 - £30,000 ($25,100 - $27,600).

Another standout in this group is an enamel and diamond “Serpenti” bracelet-watch by Bulgari, circa 1965-1970. The articulated bracelet is composed of a series of overlapping scales applied with orangey-yellow and red enamel. The serpent’s head has a forked tongue and marquise-cut diamond eyes. Its mouth opens to reveal a circular watch dial. Its estimate is £50,000-60,000 ($62,700 - $75,300).

Antique jewels
Some of the standouts in this group are:

A 19th century diamond rivière necklace composed of 45 collet-set cushion-shaped diamonds weighing 43 carats. Its estimate is £60,000 - £80,000 ($75,300 - $100,380).

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

A Georgian diamond panel bracelet, circa 1780, composed of a series of individually sprung plaques, each pavé-set with old brilliant-cut diamonds, within a border of similarly-cut diamonds, mounted in silver closed back settings. Its estimate is £8,000 - £10,000 ($10,000 - $12,500).

An early 18th Century gold and diamond necklace of Portuguese origin in its original fitted case. It’s designed as a series of ribbon-bow motif links suspending a chandelier fringe. Its estimate is £10,000 - £15,000 ($12,500 - $18,800).

A special spinel
Bonhams is placing a special emphasis on spinels. These gems in red and blue (there are other colors) are sometimes mistaken for and are actually rarer than rubies and sapphires. However, their prices are lower. In September 2015, the 50.13-carat Hope Spinel fetched the world record price of $1.4 million at Bonhams London Fine Jewellery Sale, also setting a world record of $30,000 per carat, nearly double the previous record.

For this sale Bonhams is offering an early 20th century spinel and diamond ring. The 5.3-carat Burmese, unheated, step-cut spinel, circa 1915, is set within an octagonal surround of old single-cut diamonds. Its estimate is £15,000 - £20,000 ($18,800 - $25,100).

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Faidee’s Latest Masterpiece Is The $35 Million ‘Grand Phoenix’ Ruby Necklace

One could say that the latest Faidee creation is an expression of the esteemed company’s 100-plus year history spanning four generations. 

The family owned firm that specializes exclusively in Burmese rubies unveiled “The Grand Phoenix” during the Baselworld watch and jewelry trade show in Basel, Switzerland. 

Even for a company with the pedigree of Faidee—known for dealing with exceptional rubies (and Kashmir sapphires) and creating equally exceptional and extremely expensive jewels—this is something special. 

The regal necklace made of 24 “super exceptional” unheated Burmese rubies totaling 59.83 carats. The individual rubies range in weight from one to six carats. The “pigeon’s blood” gems are accented with 100.21 carats of colorless, flawless and internally flawless fancy shaped diamonds—the highest color and clarity grades. This ruby and diamond combination in a flower motif is Faidee signature creation.

The necklace is valued at $35 million, said Ravi Lunia, Faidee director.

“The Grand Phoenix is an exceptional masterpiece; a collection of flawless rubies spanning over four generations,” Lunia said. “To find a single exceptional ruby of this caliber is a daunting task but with our passion and burning desire to excel beyond perfection, we’ve managed a miracle that has never been attained in the history of the jewelry industry.” 

The press conference also served to announce that The Phoenix Necklace will be the centerpiece of a jewelry exhibition of Faidee’s creative jewels and private ruby collection. The exhibition will be presented by the Stardust Monte-Carlo, a longtime Monaco-based luxury jeweler. It will be held at the Hotel Hermitage, Salon Belle Epoque, Monte-Carlo, August 1 - August 21.

At the press conference with Lunia was Claudio Siffredi, owner of the Stardust Monte-Carlo. 

The necklace was on display on the neck of Faidee’s Ambassador, Anna Andres, a Ukrainian lawyer, actress and model who holds the title of Miss Ukraine Universe 2014.

For more than 100 years Faidee has been known as the premiere company that deals exclusively in Burmese rubies—known for their intense, vivid red hues (“pigeon’s blood” is the term used to describe this coloration). The family owned firm has history of creating jewels with these gems that are sold privately and through the international auction market easily selling for millions of dollars. Most recently, the “Ratnaraj,” a 10.05-carat ruby set on a diamond ring sold for more than $10.2 million at Christie’s Hong Kong (more than $1 million per carat). 

It’s going to be a long time before Faidee tops this latest achievement. 

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Inside The Haute Joaillerie Section Of TEFAF Maastricht

Wallace Chan introduces a group tour at TEFAF to his dreamlike world

From the dreamlike world of Wallace Chan to the precise jewelry art of Hemmerle, the high jewelry area of TEFAF Maastricht, though small, contained a wealth of variety. And from the moment the show started, the jewelry lovers who came to the small out-of-the-way city of Maastricht, Netherlands, to attend The European Fine Arts Fair (more commonly known as TEFAF) started buying.

The bamboo framed exhibition space of Hemmerle

On the March 9 preview day, moments after the doors opened at the Maastricht Exhibition and Congress Centre (MECC) for the VIP buyers, I was inside the bamboo framed Hemmerle exhibition space when a woman came in, tried on a pair of one-of-a-kind gold earrings made with a wax process that created gold strands in a basket-like weave. She walked back and forth briefly looking in the mirror and bought them on the spot. I took a picture before they were whisked away.

Hemmerle earrings that sold within minutes after TEFAF opened. Old mine cut diamonds appear to be floating inside gold strands that looked as if they were weaved

“The fair is our first public presentation each year and we are glad to report strong consistent sales from the first 10 minutes of day 1,” said Christian Hemmerle at the close of the 10-day fair.

These earrings from Wallace Chan have everything: wood and titanium; emeralds, sapphires and diamonds; shadows and light 

Before I had a chance to enter Wallace Chan’s booth, the famed Hong Kong jewelry artist sold one of his elaborate titanium and colored-gem brooches. Chan, who always is in a good frame of mind, was particularly happy at this year’s show, saying he loves seeing old friends here.

Belperron diamond and ruby necklace. the center stone is a
rare star ruby

Meanwhile, Ward and Nico Landrigan, the father and son team that own the mid-20th Century brands, Verdura and Belperron, also were in good spirits after selling a circa 1960 yellow gold and diamond Verdura brooch. 

A Verdura bird clutching a natural pearl with diamond and emerald wings.

I was trying to have lunch with the public relations representative of Hancocks of London and couple of other jewelry writers (I said trying because the restaurant was so full they stopped serving food, giving an idea of how crowded it was), when the PR rep looked at her phone and suddenly said, “I have to go the tiara’s been sold.” The “tiara” is the Spencer family Edwardian diamond tiara. It was given to Lady Delia Spencer, great aunt to Princess Diana, by her father the 6th Earl Spencer, on her wedding day in 1914. Set with more than 800 old cut diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of 48 carats, the tiara can be transformed into a choker necklace and bracelet.

The Spencer Tiara sold by Hancocks of London

Very few of the prices of these sales were revealed but these are not typical impulse purchases. These are items that sell from tens of thousands of dollars to the stratosphere. One price that was revealed was the “Nef” necklace, from German high jeweler Otto Jakob that sold for €142,000 ($153,580).

An emerald ring by Reza

I had to cancel an appointment with Olivier Reza, the head of the Parisian jewelry brand, Reza, because the jeweler’s booth was too crowded with customers. 

Van Cleef & Arpels transformable necklace and earrings, 1959, made of emeralds, yellow and blue sapphires, and diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels and Chopard, the two largest brands in the high jewelry section, brought combinations of vintage and new jewels. 

Chopard L.U.C. XPS made with Fairmined gold

Opening day, March 10, was more manageable but still very crowded. I spoke to one woman lived about an hour away in Germany who said it was the first time she attended an art fair. She came to see Wallace Chan’s exhibit and was so amazed and astounded by what he presented that she returned to the booth seven times. She purchased Chan’s book “Dream Light Water” and had the artist sign it. 

Honcocks of London's booth

Final numbers released by TEFAF show that the fair was very active with more than 71,000 visitors, from more than 60 nations visiting the 275 dealers during the 10-day fair. This includes approximately 200 museums. 

The bust Verdura and Belperron booth

High jewelry amounts to one of nine art categories that TEFAF offers. The others are Antiques, Classical Antiquities, Curated, Design, Modern, Paintings, Paper, and Showcase. Trade fair officials were touting some of the larger sales. Among them:

* Antiquariat Bibermuehle AG Heribert Tenschert sold a 12-volume series of books, Historia naturalis, originally created for Emperor Rudolph II of Habsburg, 1596-1610, to a private collector. The series came to market for the first time in 25 year and was sold for a seven-figure sum. 

* Tomasso Brothers Fine Art sold an important work by the Renaissance master Giambologna (1529-1608). It is the earliest recorded work by the artist and the only surviving sculpture that he carved in wood. The carving was acquired by a new client, described as an important European private collector, and was priced at about €1.5million ($1.62 million). 

* Antiques dealer Les Enluminures sold the 1,000-year-old Gospel Book of Liesborn Abbey in Westphalia to the German government for more than $3 million. 

* Ben Janssens Oriental Art Ltd said he sold more than 70 items by the mid-point of the fair, including a set of four iron paintings, Tiehua, China, Qing dynasty, 18th Century, which had an asking price of €50,000 ($54,000). 

Rossi & Rossi sold a colorful Tibetan cloth painting, “Sabzang Pakpa Zhonnu Lodro” (1358-1412/24) for approximately $400,000. 

The artwork at the entrance of TEFAF Maastricht

* Emanuel von Baeyer sold 12 works to private collectors with further works on reserve with museums. A key work that sold was The Signboard of the Gersaint Gallery, 1732, the very rare engraving after Jean-Antoine Watteau (1684-1721). 

* James Butterwick sold more than €180,000 worth of works, including Still Life with Carafe and Glass on a Mirror, 1915 by Alexander Bogomazov (1880-1930) to a private Swiss collector.

* Landau Fine Art, Inc. had one of the biggest sales of the Fair, selling the monumental work “Henri Michaux acteur Japonais,” 1946 by Jean Dubuffet (1901-1985), which had an asking price of $6.5 million, to a private collector. 

* Bernard de Grunne sold 11 Sepik works from Papua New Guinea to one private collector. The pieces ranged from €80,000 to €250,000 ($86,500 to $270,000). 

* Classical antiquities sold at Charles Ede included a statuette of the “Apis bull, Late Dynastic Period,” 26th Dynasty, circa 664-525 BC, which had an asking price of £65,000 ($81,100), as well as a Graeco-Roman large footed basin, circa 2nd-century BC, with an asking price of £160,000 ($199,650).  

The talk prior to the fair was that art and jewelry sales are down. This is either an exception or the beginning of a new dawn for both the art and jewelry markets. 

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