Three New Cartier Watches For 2019

By Tiziana Agnati
Accredited journalist and influencer specializing in luxury jewelry 

The first big luxury watch trade fair of the year, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), will be held January 14 – 17 in Geneva and Cartier as always will be the center of attention. The French luxury brand has provided a preview of limited edition watches that will be revealed at the SIHH. They will be available to the public later this year. 

These three timepieces fuse the aesthetic of a past era with the precision of modern technology appearing in gorgeous tones of burgundy, emerald and gold. These watches speak to a modern trend for wearing timepieces so beautiful they almost outclass jewelry, allowing women to streamline their accessories day and night with one dramatic piece. 

Cartier Libre

Cartier Libre is at the forefront of this trend, with watches that fuse femininity with glittering extravagance, playing with the Maison’s many signature forms and aesthetics. First up is the Tank Chinoise Red Watch, which is known for its rectangular face, rows of precious stones, and its historical importance. Designed in 1921, its unusual shape has become iconic for nearly a century, and now it has been imbued with particularly strong symbolism in China: red. The dial is bordered by two lintels of rubies, while a line of diamonds adorns the edges. The contrast between the two stones emphasizes the original Chinese temples architectural reference of the watch.

Cartier Diagonale

Next up is the Diagonale, which pays homage to Cartier’s heritage of disrupting the classics with unusual designs that delight the eye. With a minuscule dial distinctively stamped with Cartier’s watchmaking codes, this piece features an arresting crisscross design, highlighted by two diagonal rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. 

Cartier Baignoire Allongée

Finally, there is the Baignoire Allongée, which comes in celadon or black, the most ornate of the trio. This watch is gloriously creative and a spectacle in a timepiece. It is studded with emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines, black spinels, yellow sapphires or diamonds, threatening to outdo even the most dramatic of gowns. In moonlight or by candlelight each gemstone becomes a minuscule speck of color, while the dial is paved with diamonds that sparkle at night. It is an elegant timepiece that can be handed down for generations. 

Cartier is a brand that disrupts and endures. This means owning a Cartier watch is like having a piece of art on your wrist. 

Tiziana Agnati is a journalist and influencer specializing in luxury jewelry with digital expertise. Learn more about her on her Linkedin profile where she communicates regularly with 100,000 followers. 

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Tiffany’s New Metro Watch For Women

The Tiffany & Co. new Metro Watch combines the luxury retailer’s skill at using diamonds with traditional Swiss craftsmanship. Each piece features a round brilliant diamond crown that is assigned an individual serial number, making each watch personal to the wearer, the company says. In addition, for most models are topped with diamonds in various designs.

The company says the watch’s clean, fluid lines evoke the pace and energy of New York City, where Tiffany is headquartered. The 28mm curved stainless case comes in either stainless steel or 18k rose gold. The dials come in several styles, including an “ice blue,” a darker blue, burgundy, white or pink lacquer, all with flinqué finishes. Several models come with a 60 seconds subdial. The curved motif continues with the bracelets, which are available in alligator leather in a variety of colors and stainless steel. 

The watches are powered with either a Rhonda quartz movement or a Soprod automatic movement.

“Our horological history began in Geneva, Switzerland in 1847, and today we continue this tradition of craftsmanship by introducing the Tiffany Metro timepiece—its beauty lies in the superlative pedigree of Tiffany diamonds,” said Nicola Andreatta, vice president and general manager of Tiffany & Co. Swiss Watches. 

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House Of Garrard Opens Its First Boutique In Shanghai

The entrance of the new Garrard boutique in Shanghai

The House of Garrard has set up a shop in Shanghai to introduced Chinese citizens and tourists to the heritage of the world’s longest serving fine jeweler, while browsing the collections that include bridal jewelry, tiaras and rare gems. 

The boutique is located in the Bund district in the longest baroque style building in China built in 1911, which also happens to be the same year that Garrard opened its flagship store in London. 

To celebrate the launch of the boutique, the British jeweler has drawn inspiration from its heritage and created a selection of one-of-a-kind pieces exclusive to Shanghai. The Emerald Ivy suite is a combination of emeralds and brilliant diamonds consisting of earrings, bracelet and a transformable necklace that can be worn in three different ways. In addition, there’s the Eternal Fringe suite, a necklace and earring combination containing more than 40 carats of diamonds, and the Azalea Tiara, an all-diamond headpiece that reflects the romantic royal heritage of Garrard.

The Emerald Ivy transformable necklace

Other lines housed in the new boutique include Garrard’s iconic Wings collection and the new Enchanted Palace collection, a whimsical and modern take on the Great Exhibition of 1851, held in London. Garrard has a strong reputation for designing bespoke pieces and this will continue in Shanghai with clients being able to work with the London design team to create one-offs.

“We are incredibly proud and excited to be bringing The House of Garrard directly to the Chinese market with the opening of our Shanghai boutique,” said Joanne Milner, CEO of The House of Garrard. “We are confident that our iconic collections and bespoke designs, coupled with our long standing British heritage will find a happy home in one of the most dynamic and exciting cities in the world.”

A rendering of the Azalea Tiara 

The House of Garrard is known for working closely with the British Royal Family throughout the jeweler’s storied history. First commissioned in 1736 by Fredrick, Prince of Wales, and appointed crown jewelers by Queen Victoria in 1943, Garrard has served each subsequent monarch since. The House has created iconic tiaras which are still worn at state occasions as well as the sapphire cluster engagement ring worn by Princess Diana and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge. 

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Georges Kern Leaves Richemont To Pursue An Ownership Role With Breitling

Georges Kern Photo by StephZibi - Wikipedia

Georges Kern, a 17-year veteran of Compagnie Financière Richemont, has resigned after nearly rising to the top position in the Swiss luxury goods company. 

“Richemont regrets to announce the resignation with immediate effect of Mr. Georges Kern,” the company said in a brief statement. Kern was head of Watchmaking, Marketing and Digital for Richemont, a newly-created position he held for fewer than four months, after an extremely successful 15-year leadership role with Richemont owned watch brand, IWC Schaffhausen. 

At the same time Jérôme Lambert, who had an equally successful runs as the head of Richemont owned luxury brands Montblanc and Jaeger-LeCoultre, took the newly-created position of head of Operations responsible for central and regional services and all its brands other than jewelry and watchmaking. 

The two executives were basically co-CEOs of Richemont reporting to its board of directors and Johann Rupert, chairman and founder of Richemont. The talk in the industry was that one of them would be tapped to fill the top spot. Both were already responsible for activities within their category for the 16 watch, jewelry and fashion brands the Geneva-based company owns. They include Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Baume & Mercier. 

In addition, Richemont holds a 49% equity-accounted interest in the YOOX Net-A-Porter Group, a publicly traded eCommerce company.

“Georges has been offered an interesting opportunity to become an entrepreneur,” Rupert said in the Richemont statement. “He has had a very successful career at IWC Schaffhausen and we wish him well.”

According to reports, the entrepreneurial opportunity is a stake in rival watchmaker Breitling. The company was purchased by private equity firm, CVC Capital Partners, headquartered in Luxembourg. 

The Richemont statement notes that Kern has stepped down from Richemont’s senior executive committee and group management committee and will no longer be standing for election to the company’s board of directors at the forthcoming annual general meeting of shareholders.

Richemont’s watchmaking, marketing and digital activities will report to its senior executive committee. 

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Actress Margot Robbie Joins Watch Brand Richard Mille

Photo by Dennis Leupold for Opus reps

Actress Margot Robbie will partner with luxury watch brand, Richard Mille to produce a collection of women watches of which the proceeds will be donated to charity. 

“The watch we are working on embodies Richard Mille’s vision of horology; it’s beautiful, unique and modern. I can’t wait for everyone to see it,” Robbie said.

They will donate proceeds from the new products to Youngcare, a foundation committed to helping young Australians with high-care needs the opportunity to live with choice, independence and dignity.

Robbie, 27, is known for both her beauty and her ability to excel at high profile roles. She is perhaps best known for her breakout role in Martin Scorsese’s 2013 hit, The Wolf of Wall Street, in which she stars as the female lead opposite Leonardo DiCaprio. Her performance in the film garnered praise from critics and audiences—most notably for her authentic Brooklyn accent from the Aussie native.

The Wolf of Wall Street paved the way for other opportunities for Robbie. Roles included starring opposite Will Smith in Focus, a lead role in sci-fi thriller Z for Zachariah, starring as “Jane” in David Yates’ The Legend of Tarzan, as well as the iconic “Harley Quinn” in David Ayer’s Suicide Squad.

Photo by Dennis Leupold for Opus reps

This new partnership between Margot Robbie and Richard Mille “complements the very contemporary spirit of the collection in which Margot will bring her creative energy and her own interpretation of femininity as she participates in the design of several models,” the watch brand said in a statement.

Women the watch brand has partnered with in the past, include actresses Michelle Yeoh and Natalie Portman.

Robbie grew up on the Gold Coast of Australia and eventually moved to Melbourne where she began acting professionally at the age of 17. She appeared on Neighbors, Australia’s longest-running television serial, from 2008-2010. In 2011, Robbie moved to the United States to pursue her career and was cast in the television series, Pan Am.

Robbie can be seen next in Simon Curtis’ Goodbye Christopher Robin. She recently wrapped production on Craig Gillespie’s I, Tonya, which she stars in as Tonya Harding, and served as a producer under her production company, LuckyChap Entertainment. Robbie will soon begin production on Josie Rourke’s Mary Queen of Scots in which she will star as “Queen Elizabeth.”

Richard Mille is known for producing tonneau-shaped timepieces with high complications that use high-tech materials and modern crafting techniques. In addition to celebrity endorsements, the company partners with athletes ranging from Formula 1 racers to tennis stars, creating watches designed to be used in their athletic pursuits. 

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Tiffany Names Diesel Head Alessandro Bogliolo As New CEO

Tiffany & Co. said Thursday that it has named Alessandro Bogliolo, the former head of global apparel and accessories company, Diesel, as its next chief executive officer and newest board member. He will join the company on October 2.

Bogliolo, 52, is a veteran luxury industry executive who for the past four years led Diesel's efforts to revitalize its brand and enhance the customer experience, according to a statement by Tiffany. He also worked for 16 at Bulgari SpA, including in the roles of chief operating officer and executive VP of Jewelry, Watches & Accessories. During his career, Bogliolo has worked in a range of countries, including China, Singapore, Italy, France, Spain and the United States.

 “Today's announcement concludes the board's thorough process to identify and recruit an accomplished leader to position the Company for sustainable growth in the years ahead,” Michael J. Kowalski, chairman and interim CEO, said in a statement. “Alessandro has a well-deserved reputation for creativity and execution, having previously led a number of international brands to success and improved performance. I also believe that his vision and team-oriented approach make him an ideal fit with Tiffany’s long-standing values. Tiffany is an iconic brand and is at an important time in its history. We look forward to Alessandro and the Tiffany team delivering a distinctive vision of luxury and style to our customers around the world, while also focusing on driving attractive returns for our shareholders.”

“I am honored and excited by the opportunity to lead this remarkable company,” Bogliolo said. “Tiffany, with its legendary history, has always represented luxury, style, and an extraordinary standard of quality and excellence, and I look forward to working with the board and the rest of the Tiffany team to build on this foundation. It is my goal to continue to delight our customers with compelling product offerings, supported by best-in-class operations. I am committed to strengthening the company's position as one of the world's most important luxury brands and delivering value for all of our stakeholders.”

The new appointment is the latest development in leadership changes that began February 5, with the resignation of its former CEO, Frederic Cumenal, on Super Bowl Sunday, the same day it launched Lady Gaga as the face of its new fashion jewelry collection, Tiffany HardWear, with its first ever Super Bowl commercial prior to her halftime performance.

He was replaced in the interim by Michael J. Kowalski, the former longtime CEO of Tiffany’s and its current board chairman.

Later in the month the luxury jewelry retailer announced that it has increased its board of directors from 10 to 13 members. The most familiar name within the jewelry trade is Francesco Trapani, the former CEO of the Italian jewelry house, Bulgari. The other new members were also associated with high profile companies: Roger Farah, co-CEO of the fashion brand, Tory Burch, and James Lillie, the former CEO of the former consumer products conglomerate, Jarden Corp.

In the same announcement Kowalski said he plans to step down as board chairman.

Bogliolo started his career at the global consulting firm Bain & Co., after graduating from UniversitaÌ Bocconi with a degree in business administration and later completed the International Management Program at HEC Paris. According to his Linkedin profile, he also served as COO of North America for Sephora and as VP of sales and marketing in Greater China for the Piaggio Group, an Italian company that produces scooters, mopeds and motorcycles under several brand names.

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Tudor Signs David Beckham And The ‘All Blacks’ Rugby Team

David Beckham wearing the Tudor Black Bay S & G 

Tudor has been keeping busy lately. The Swiss watch brand on Tuesday announced the signing of two new brand ambassadors. The first is David Beckham, the international soccer star and fashion icon. The second is the biggest name in the world of Rugby, the New Zealand All Blacks.

Beckham and the All Blacks will star in Tudor’s new campaign with the “Born To Dare” signature. The company says the campaign reflects “the history of the brand and what it stands for today. Daring individuals have long chosen Tudor while achieving the extraordinary on land, ice, in the air and underwater. It also refers to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Tudor, who manufactured Tudor watches to withstand the most extreme conditions, watches made for the most daring lifestyle."

The All Blacks wearing the Tudor Black Bay Dark

The Tudor “Born To Dare” spirit is expressed in the following statement:

“We are devoted to the classic. But reject the status quo. We keep the best of the past, the best watchmaking practices, the best designs. And push the boundaries of what’s new. Born for a purpose. Field-tested to the extreme. For those who are up for anything. For those who face their fears.”

A closer look of David Beckham wearing the Tudor Black Bay S & G

Beckham, in the same statement, said he became interested in the brand through its sibling brand Rolex, which he collects. “I was attracted to Tudor by the attention to detail I could see in their watches. I then learned about the history of the brand—one of adventure, pioneer diving and daring expeditions. I was instantly hooked.”

Below is a video with Beckham in Tudor's Born To Dare campaign.

Beckham in the campaign wears the Black Bay S&G, a vintage-inspired steel and gold diver’s watch as well as the Black Bay Chrono, a COSC-certified chronograph with column-wheel manufacture caliber, drawing upon Tudor's diving and motorsports heritage.

The All Blacks star player, Beauden Barrett, wearing the Tudor Black Bay Dark

The All Blacks is the most successful national team in the history of professional rugby, known for their winning ways and their “haka” pre-game ritual—based on the traditional war challenge from the Māori people of New Zealand.

Tudor’s sponsorship of the All Blacks includes separate sponsorships for its star player, Beauden Barrett, and the upcoming 2017 DHL New Zealand Lions Series. Every four years, the best rugby players in England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales, combine to become the British and Irish Lions team and tour one of the Southern Hemisphere rugby nations. In 2017, the tour will be in New Zealand and include three matches with the All Blacks, beginning June 24.

The All Blacks and Barrett are photographed in the campaign wearing the Black Bay Dark, a vintage-inspired all-black steel diver’s watch.

Below is the haka being performed by the All Blacks prior to the final of the Rugby World Cup 2011 against the French team in New Zealand.

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Couture Show 2017 Jewelry Preview

2016 Couture Show 

The Couture Show being held at the Wynn Las Vegas and Encore Luxury Resort June 2 – 6, specializes in luxury and fashion jewels from independent designers as well as national and international luxury brands. More than 200 exhibitors and 4,000 buyers from top luxury department stores and independent luxury retailers fill the main ballrooms and private spaces throughout the resort. Below is a short preview of some of the jewels that will be on display at the show. 

Gold bamboo and diamond Arbor ring with a 7-carat blue-grey spinel center stone by Aaron Henry

Three stacked rings by Yael Sonia: Solo Rotated 8mm ring in 18k yellow gold and amethyst, Sonia Duo Solo 6mm and 8mm ring in 18k yellow gold with green tourmaline and pink tourmaline, and the Solo Rotated 6mm ring in 18k rose gold with pink tourmaline

David Webb Paisley bracelet with cabochon rubies, emeralds, sapphires, brilliant-cut diamonds set in green and light blue enamel with 18k gold and platinum 

Macan Murni 18k gold ring by John Hardy featuring a Mabe Pearl framed by two jeweled tiger heads with pave-set black and white diamonds and black sapphires

Loren Nicole Etruscan Collar in handcrafted filigree 20k gold with 8mm bezel set stones and satin finish

22k gold and silver rectangle drop earrings with black diamonds by Arman Sarkisyan

18k gold emerald cocktail ring with diamonds by Colette

18k white gold and diamond signet ring by Jemma Wynne 

18k black gold opal butterfly bangle by Wendy Yue with tsavorites, black diamonds, champagne diamonds, and white diamonds 

Black rhodium gold and black diamond bracelet by Noudar

Tanzanite sugarloaf carved 4-prong ring in 18K white gold with diamonds by Goshwara

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The Only Place To Buy Jessica McCormack Luxury Jewels Is In A Magnificent London Townhouse, But That May Soon Change

The Jessica McCormack Townhouse Boutique

In less than 10 years, Jessica McCormack has earned an international reputation for her antique-inspired contemporary jewels. Sharing this attention is the 19th Century townhouse in Mayfair that her company calls home. It operates as the headquarters, workshop, showroom and boutique. After my first visit in March to the five-story red-brick building on 7 Carlos Place, I must say it’s quite impressive. 

The interior, designed by London architects, Powell Tuck Associated, contains high ceilings, plenty of light through bay-style windows, aged wooden floors, fireplaces, and a well-manicured and inviting backyard patio. Throughout the first two stories (the public area) are antique furnishings and chandeliers, contemporary sculptures and paintings. One room has a wall-length, floor-to-ceiling bookcase and a player piano filling the space with music. 

The Library

The “grand” townhouse is the only place in the world where one can purchase Jessica McCormack jewels. More importantly, it serves as the perfect showplace for McCormack’s aesthetic. The New Zealand native grew up around antiques at her father’s auction business in Christ Church. She served a one-year internship at Sotheby’s jewelry department in London where she grew an appreciation and love of baubles. Her style reflects both her foundation in antiques—particularly in Art Deco and Georgian and Victorian periods—and the edginess and casual nature of contemporary culture.

The jewelry gallery

The art and antiques are primarily from one of McCormack’s partners, Michael Rosenfeld, a diamantaire and art collector who sources diamonds and gems for her designs. Her other partner is Rachel Slack, a businesswoman and a member of the Oppenheimer family, which until recently was the owner of De Beers. So McCormack is well financed.

What about the jewelry?

McCormack’s collections (which includes Tattoo, Jewels of the Urban Night, Messenger of the Gods and Perfect Storm) are well defined with specific personal stories and signature motifs. For example, the Urban Night collection is inspired by the jagged edges and geometric features of the architecture of the New York skyline. The Art Deco motifs are created through channel-set diamonds in geometric lines and grids. 

The Ruby New York Ring from the Urban Night collection

Meanwhile, the Tattoo collection is inspired by The Maori people of McCormack’s New Zealand home country. The jewels are based on their facial tattoos that tell individual stories of family lineage and social status within their tribe. Books about the Maori culture and artifacts she has collected over the years are included among the eclectic collection of contemporary art and antiques in the house.

The Tattoo Ring

While diamonds is McCormack’s preferred stone, she isn’t afraid to add color. This is most evident in the Party Jacket collection. In this versatile group, McCormack will often take a client’s existing ring—such as a solitaire, engagement or heirloom—and create a removable gem-specific “jacket” that surrounds the original gem. It provides another way to express oneself with the same jewel without altering it. 

Oval diamond ring with ruby Party Jacket

This clever nature and versatility is evident throughout her pieces. Another thing that makes her pieces special is that it is luxury jewelry that can be worn everyday and for all occasions. These are a couple of reasons why McCormack is in high demand for her bespoke work, collaborating with clients to create something special and unique. Clients include Rihanna and Madonna. As the story goes (as these stories often go) Rihanna was McCormack’s first customer when she operated a small, private appointment studio. The singer and fashion icon purchased a single “Wings of Desire” earring.

Wing of Desire Earrings

McCormack’s petite, edgy and versatile diamond-centric jewels have attracted a strong following throughout the world (particularly in the U.K. and U.S.), despite their limited availability. 

It is a successful business that is at a crossroads. The challenge is fueling growth while maintaining its high quality standards and continuity with the Jessica McCormack brand. 

The Romance Room

There are at least three issues facing the company. First, there is demand far exceeding her ability to supply it. The craftsmen produce about 100 handmade pieces per year. Second, the big, beautiful art-filled space, which is as much of the Jessica McCormack brand as her jewels, comes with huge costs. Third, the boutique is away from the busier shopping areas of Mayfair, such as Bond Street. This makes it primarily a destination for clients already familiar with her work. The primary source of casual walk in traffic is from The Connaught luxury hotel directly across the street. 

To diversify the product selection, the brand recently released a bridal jewelry collection with the same relationship to McCormack and her brand as her other jewels. 

The Little Mermaid Ring

For additional help in planning this next phase of the business they recruited New York resident, Colleen Caslin, who just finished a successful eight-year run as the chief operating officer of Verdura and Belperron. She is serving as the interim CEO till June. The veteran luxury executive’s resume includes leadership positions at Movado Group, Graff and Asprey. She is well respected in the industry. I’ve known her during her time at Verdura and Belperron and can’t imagine a better person to guide the business to its next level. 

I met with Caslin during my visit in March and she discussed many ideas that are being considered. Nothing yet has been approved but those loyal clients should be prepared for some changes. 

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Versace 2017 Watches Are More Than Just Accessories

Versace V-Extreme Pro 

When Versace expanded into watches in 2004 it brought on the Timex Group Swiss Luxury Division (a division of Timex Group) to design, manufacture and distribute its timepieces with the iconic luxury fashion brand’s codes, such as the Medusa head and the maze-like Greek keys. 

Not surprisingly Versace watches are designed and treated more like accessories than timepieces. That will probably always be the case for a brand like Versace but this year’s new products show more dedication in looking and acting more like timepieces. 

For example, the V-Extreme Pro (above and top photo) with its black dial and sunray guilloché finish has a second time subdial at 9 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 3 o’clock. The Medusa is in relief at 12 o’clock. The 46mm case is available in bicolor black, ion-plated (IP) gold or ion-plated (IP) bronzed steel. An interchangeable top ring provides a choice of an engraved minute scale or the engraved Versace logo repeated three times. In addition, it’s available in five bicolored versions and comes with either a silicone strap with a hot-pressed logo or a metal bracelet.

Versace is known for its bold color choices. The black and gold colored Daphnis watch is an example of this. Its black dial and black leather strap is enhanced with an IP yellow gold bezel. The main design feature of the 35mm watch is the Greek keys, which are engraved on the gold bezel and run in a north-south row across the dial and along the black leather strap of the black dial model. The yellow gold Medusa head is in relief at 12 o’clock and on the crown. 

There’s also a version of the watch with a beige mother-of-pearl dial and an IP yellow gold bezel and bracelet.

The 36mm Idyia watch is described by Versace as a “play of shapes within shapes.” Set into the round base is a faceted, 10-sided top ring with polished or diamond-studded edges that provide a contrast with the satin-finish surface. A supersized Greek keys stands out against the mother-of-pearl dial with an alternating polished and matte effect. The 3D Medusa is at 12 o’clock.

A standard model is available with polished edges and a bi-colored (steel and IP plated gold) bracelet and a luxury version with diamond-studded edges and an IP gold bracelet. 

Straight from the Versace woman’s Spring/Summer 2017 catwalk, the Palazzo Empire’s bold 3D Medusa Head in the center of the dial is positioned between two watch glasses, embellishing and enhancing the sunray guilloché dial. The bezel is adorned by an enameled Greek keys design in colors that match the calfskin strap. It is available in white, black or pink.

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