Three New Cartier Watches For 2019

By Tiziana Agnati
Accredited journalist and influencer specializing in luxury jewelry 

The first big luxury watch trade fair of the year, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), will be held January 14 – 17 in Geneva and Cartier as always will be the center of attention. The French luxury brand has provided a preview of limited edition watches that will be revealed at the SIHH. They will be available to the public later this year. 

These three timepieces fuse the aesthetic of a past era with the precision of modern technology appearing in gorgeous tones of burgundy, emerald and gold. These watches speak to a modern trend for wearing timepieces so beautiful they almost outclass jewelry, allowing women to streamline their accessories day and night with one dramatic piece. 

Cartier Libre

Cartier Libre is at the forefront of this trend, with watches that fuse femininity with glittering extravagance, playing with the Maison’s many signature forms and aesthetics. First up is the Tank Chinoise Red Watch, which is known for its rectangular face, rows of precious stones, and its historical importance. Designed in 1921, its unusual shape has become iconic for nearly a century, and now it has been imbued with particularly strong symbolism in China: red. The dial is bordered by two lintels of rubies, while a line of diamonds adorns the edges. The contrast between the two stones emphasizes the original Chinese temples architectural reference of the watch.

Cartier Diagonale

Next up is the Diagonale, which pays homage to Cartier’s heritage of disrupting the classics with unusual designs that delight the eye. With a minuscule dial distinctively stamped with Cartier’s watchmaking codes, this piece features an arresting crisscross design, highlighted by two diagonal rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. 

Cartier Baignoire Allongée

Finally, there is the Baignoire Allongée, which comes in celadon or black, the most ornate of the trio. This watch is gloriously creative and a spectacle in a timepiece. It is studded with emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines, black spinels, yellow sapphires or diamonds, threatening to outdo even the most dramatic of gowns. In moonlight or by candlelight each gemstone becomes a minuscule speck of color, while the dial is paved with diamonds that sparkle at night. It is an elegant timepiece that can be handed down for generations. 

Cartier is a brand that disrupts and endures. This means owning a Cartier watch is like having a piece of art on your wrist. 

Tiziana Agnati is a journalist and influencer specializing in luxury jewelry with digital expertise. Learn more about her on her Linkedin profile where she communicates regularly with 100,000 followers. 

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Montblanc CEO Jérôme Lambert Bids Farewell

Montblanc CEO Jérôme Lambert (letf) with brand ambassadors Guey Lun Mei, Charlotte Casiraghi and Hugh Jackman at the Montblanc gala dinner in Geneva

The rows of tables that make up the seating arrangement at the Brasserie Des Halles de L’Ile for Montblanc’s annual gala dinner is just one of the signature trademarks of Jérôme Lambert that displays his attention to detail. 

In less than four years the engaging French CEO of the German luxury brand has managed to make his mark in many ways. Among them:

* He created consistent storylines based on Montblanc’s heritage over multiple product categories and produced innovative products that adhered to brand’s legacy. For example, a year ago, Montblanc celebrated its 110th anniversary with a wide collection of writing instruments, timepieces, leather goods, cufflinks and jewelry called “Montblanc Heritage Collection, Rouge & Noir” that took design inspiration from various periods of the brand’s history. 

* He championed the first design partnership in Montblanc’s history, working with contemporary designer, Marc Newson, for the Montblanc M collection of writing instruments.

* He named contemporary art curators, Sam Bardaouil and Till Fellrath, as co-chairs of the Montblanc de la Culture Arts Patronage Awards, also a first for the brand and the 25-year history of the awards program.

* He was instrumental in merging the talents of its two watchmaking operations: Villeret (formerly known as Minerva), a watchmaking workshop in the town of the same name that produces a limited number of timepieces with hand-made chronograph movements; and the Montblanc Le Locle watch manufacturing operation. The two facilities produced separate products until Lambert arrived. In less than a year Montblanc began producing familiar and new Montblanc chronographs with Villeret movements at a broader range of prices and styles. 

Now it was time for Lambert to say goodbye. His success at Montblanc and an equally successful stint at luxury watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre has earned him a corporate position at Compagnie Financière Richemont, which owns both brands. He moves into a new title April 1 as head of Operations responsible for central and regional services for all brands with the exception of jewelry and watchmaking. He is being replaced by Nicolas Baretzki, currently Montblanc’s executive VP of sales.

The seating arrangement of rows of tables at the Montblanc annual gala dinner. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

The January 16 dinner during the Salon International Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) watch trade show was the last chance Lambert had to publicly address his top-line staff, many of whom he hired, and the international celebrities associated with the brand, many of whom he recruited. His energetic ad-libbed remarks were often interrupted by cheers and applause—overshadowing the celebrities at the event, including Hugh Jackman, Montblanc’s international brand ambassador. 

“Every time it’s a little bit of an adventure so it looks good on Monday morning,” he said about preparing the luxurious exhibition space at SIHH, the luxury watch trade show. “There’s a lot of people involved and a lot of stories.”

Jérôme Lambert addresses his guests at the Montblanc gala dinner. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

He added, “For many of you who started on the very first days, weeks and months of our history. I remember the tough nights. Thanks for the good energy, investment and strong belief that everything was functioning perfectly.… Thank you for the amazing time. Thank you for being our partners, brand ambassadors, friends and sources of inspiration.” 

Those sitting on the rows of tables cheered. 

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Richard Mille Unveils The World’s Lightest Chronograph

The Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren F1 Split-Seconds Tourbillon Chronograph weighs 40 grams (1.41 ounces), which the watchmaker says makes it the world’s lightest mechanical chronograph ever on the market. Its weight achievement is due to the use of ultra-light and high-strength materials for the case and the movement.

For this timepiece, Richard Mille teamed with McLaren-Honda, one of the best-known builders of racing cars and a company known for its work with ultra-lightweight and high-strength alloys. The watch had its first full public showing at the recently concluded Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

The bezel and caseback feature Graph TPT, a Carbon TPT material whose physical properties have been improved by the injection of graphene, a nanomaterial six times lighter than steel but 200 times more resistant, according to the watchmaker. 

Richard Mille collaborated with The University of Manchester (where graphene was first isolated by Professor Andre Geim in 2004 who won the Nobel Prize in Physics for its discovery), McLaren Applied Technologies and North Thin Ply Technology, to produce a watch case machined with what it calls an improved form of Carbon TPT. 

The RM50-03 caliber has a “record-breaking” weight of just seven grams, according to the watch brand, achieved through the combination of high-tech materials and skeletonization. The baseplate and bridges are made of corrosion resistant and rigid grade 5 titanium. Some of the bridges of the split-seconds chronograph are made of Carbon TPT, as is the transverse carriage that supports the caliber with the barrel and tourbillon bridges. Attached to the caseback, this carriage circumvents the need for a casing ring, allowing the movement to be integrated into the case. The company says the caliber, despite its ultra-light-weight, was tested to be resistant to shocks of 5,000 Gs and has a 70-hour power reserve. 

The split-seconds mechanism features a new Richard Mille column wheel that now has six columns, as opposed to eight in previous versions. The watch brand says this optimizes simultaneous movement, maximal function locking and greater adjustment durability. The helical spring was replaced by a blade on the split seconds wheel of the RM 50-03.

The pusher at 8 o'clock starts or stops the seconds hand of the chronograph. The pusher at 4 o'clock stops the split seconds hand and allows an intermediary time to be read off while the chronograph is engaged. When this pusher is pressed again, the split-seconds hand catches up with the chronograph hand and simultaneously continues its course. The pusher at 10 o'clock resets the hands.

A torque indicator displays the tension of the mainspring and makes it possible to optimize the winding of the watch. A function indicator displays winding, hand setting or the neutral position—similar to the gearbox on a car—when the watch crown is pulled out. A hand at 4 o'clock displays the selected mode: W (Winding) – N (Neutral) – H (Hand Setting).

Outside of its light weight and new advancements, RM 50-03 retains all of the codes of a Richard Mille watch, including the signature Tourneau-shaped case. In addition to the fabric strap, it is available in a rubber strap injected with graphene.

The watch will be available as early as June in a limited edition of 75 pieces and a price of $980,000.

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Van Cleef & Arpels Ladies Watches Combine Gems With Poetry

I can appreciate a luxury brand that uses words, artistic expressions and multi-media displays to tell stories that are simple yet compelling. There’s almost no one who does it better than Van Cleef & Arpels. Each year, I look forward to their annual presentation at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), where they always find new and magical ways to tell their timeless stories of love. It’s not an easy task and few luxury brands are good at story telling these days even though many have great stories to tell.

This year the Parisian luxury house presented its newest versions of its “Poetic Complications,” high jewelry watches and a couple high jewelry show stoppers. “Hide and seek” is the theme of many of their new pieces.

“Rubis Secret” watch bracelet
This unique piece features white and pink gold covered in 115 oval-cut Mozambique rubies (151.25 total carats) of matching color. They are arranged in three even, smooth rows, despite slight variations of cut, from oval to cushion. Each row of rubies is separated by four rows of diamonds and further enhanced by tiny pairs of round diamond studs throughout the bracelet.

The “secret” in this bejeweled bracelet is a small, rectangular quartz-powered watch that discreetly slides in and out on a white gold plate. An “invisible” hinge for the sliding door is only visible when the drawer is opened when pressing on the rubies. The piece required 1,500 hours, or more than year’s work to complete. The price is available upon request.

Pompon
The luxury brand also introduced a versatile secret bejeweled timepiece that can be worn as a necklace or bracelet with or without the quartz timepiece hidden inside a surround of tassels. In style, this watch takes its cues from the fashion sense of the 1940s and 1950s, the jewelry house explained.

There are two versions of this high jewelry watch: One in pink gold, round diamonds, round pink sapphires, red spinels, white cultured pearls, coral and white mother-of-pearl. The other is a unique piece in white gold, round diamonds, onyx, black spinels, white cultured pearls and white mother-of-pearl.

Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons
Perhaps more interesting from a story telling perspective is the newest versions of Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Poetic Complications” timepieces, including the Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons (round butterflies).

The 38mm case white gold case has a bezel set with diamonds and crown set with one diamond. Inside is a dial made of mother-of-pearl, engraved gold and miniature painting that depicts what the brand describes as an “aerial ballet” made of a blue sky with white clouds and the occasional appearances of three butterflies and a swallow. The same motif is engraved in sapphire glass on the back of the case.

The automatic movement has a retrograde jumping hour, variable speed minutes and an on-demand animation module developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels.

The butterflies serve as the minute hands (really more like guides) and the swallow points toward the hour markers. There’s an animation mechanism activated by a button that allows for a 10-second animated show of the butterflies and birds flying within the clouds. The figures then return to their proper spots on the dial, allowing for the time that has passed during the animation.

Snowflake and Snowflake Fleurette High Jewelry Watches
Among traditional jewelry timepieces, the luxury brand introduced two versions that are covered in white diamonds.

The first has a 20mm platinum case with the bezel, white dial and platinum bracelet encrusted with diamonds (above). The second is an 18mm version called the Snowflake “Fleurette” (small flower) with very the same materials, similar details but a slightly different appearance.

All of the diamonds are of D and E for color, VVS clarity. On each side of the case, seven diamonds make up petals of a flower. On the Snowflake Fleurette model, the theme is repeated two more times. The more abstract Snowflake model is adorned with a diamond embroidery. Prong settings are combined with scalloped settings, which cover the edges of the stones with a hem of platinum.

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Slowing Watch Sales Bring More Variety At SIHH 2016

The prototype Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Nuit Lumineuse watch with diamonds that light like stars using a mechanical power source

SIHH, the second largest gather of the Swiss watch industry, was held January 18 - 22 as reports emerged confirming that watch sales have slowed. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said Tuesday that exports for 2015 declined 3.3 percent year-over-year to 21.5 billion Swiss francs ($21.1 billion). This coincided with Richemont’s third quarter earnings statement two weeks earlier, which reported that sales fell by 4 percent year-over-year at constant exchange rate to 2.92 billion Swiss francs ($2.86 billion).

The blame for the decline range from the combined austerity measures and stock market turbulence in China, the effects of a strong Swiss currency (particularly in Europe) and the introduction of the Apple Watch, which may have resulted in the steep decline of watch exports in the 200-franc to 500-franc price range. Even the Paris terrorist attacks had a major impact on watch in the “City of Light,” according to reports. And 2016 is looking like another year of softer sales.

One thing that hasn’t changed is silly stories in the consumer press that tout complicated timepieces as being “insane” and a layered, carbon-fiber writing instrument that uses a mechanical movement to expose and retract the nib as a “crazy ass pen.”

Back to the matter at hand, despite slowing sales the mood at SIHH was largely positive. The 24 watch brands presented more than enough new items in a number of styles and price points to leave retailers and trade journalists satisfied. One UK retailer told me that prices were more “realistic” this year.

The Parmigiani Senfine concept watch movement with 45-day power reserve

Among the biggest developments, two were for products that were not yet available to the public. The Parmigiani Senfine concept movement, which boasts a remarkable 45-day power reserve, and the Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Nuit Lumineuse watch, which has diamonds that light like stars using a mechanical power source (top photo).

Richard Mille RM 50-02 ACJ Tourbillon Spilt Seconds Chronograph

The other big release was the RM 50-02 Tourbillon Spilt Seconds Chronograph ACJ Chronograph, made in a partnership with the exclusive Airbus Corporate Jets division of the Airbus Group. It incorporates design details and materials of the ACJ aircraft. It’s limited to 30 pieces and has a price tag of more than $1 million.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon

A. Lange & Söhne, which has mastered the ability to create highly technical movements and house them inside beautifully balanced dials, introduced the latest edition of its highly praised Datograph chronograph timepieces, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. This newest version from the proudly German company combines the Datograph chronograph with a flyback function and Up/Down power reserve indicator and the typical Lange outsize date; with a perpetual calendar with a moon-phase display; and a tourbillon exposed on the sapphire-crystal caseback and the open tourbillon bridge. 

This year, for the first time, the established 15 brands (11 owned by the Swiss holding company, Richemont) at SIHH were joined by nine watch artisan-creators and independent workshops. They all showcased their unique approach to watchmaking. One brand, Ralph Lauren, pulled out of the show this year.

MB&F Sherman table clock in gold

MB&F, perhaps the most successful of the new group, not only introduced its latest “horological machine” but also unveiled its latest in artistic and creative table clocks. Called “Sherman,” it is once again made in partnership with Swiss clock manufacturer, L’Epée 1839. It is in the shape of a boyish robot, with movable arms and hands, and tank-like caterpillar tracks for feet. It was inspired by the US Sherman tank and MB&F’s founder, Maximilian Büsser’s on-going quest to revisit his childhood. The balance and escapement of L’Epée’s eight-day, in-line movement is located under the transparent dome of Sherman's head.

The Roger Dubuis Blossom Velvet ladies timepiece

Finally, Roger Dubuis declared 2016 to be the “Year of the Velvet Diva” by focusing on a collection of ladies watches called, Velvet. The five-watch collection combines high jewels powered by robust automatic movements.

For more highlights from what is rightfully touted as the watch industry’s most luxurious and exclusive watch show, stay turned to this blog.

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Montblanc, Marc Newson Create New Writing Instruments

Montblanc M collection designed by Marc Newson

Montblanc has teamed with famed contemporary designer Marc Newson for a new collection of writing instruments designed to appeal to a younger audience.

Together they created the Montblanc M collection of writing instruments that combine the iconic elements of the famed designer with the heritage of the iconic luxury brand. It is the first time Montblanc has participated in a design partnership in its 110-year history. 

Newson is one of the most important and successful contemporary designers in the world. He has designed products ranging from clothing to airplanes. He is best known for designing the Lockheed Lounge chair, one of which sold at auction for $3.5 million, the most expensive object ever sold by a living designer. Most recently he was hired by Apple as part of its design team and has had input in the design of the Apple watch.

The Montblanc M collection has been available since September but they received their first proper public unveiling at the recently concluded Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva. Newson said the writing instruments were designed with an aesthetic and a price that should appeal to a younger audience. 

“The idea was to try and design something which perhaps is a little more accessible for a slightly different demographic … a slightly younger person,” Newson said prior to Montblanc’s 110th anniversary celebration January 18 in Geneva. “A product that is not in the same price range and that we could potentially target for a different segment. It could in some ways be perceived as an entry into the world of Montblanc.”

Montblanc M fountain pen retails for $565, compared with the Montblanc Meisterstück 149 fountain pen at $935. A rollerball and ballpoint models are available at $400 each. There’s also a “ScreenWriter” for use on touch screens and a thin “Montblanc Artfineliner” for technical drawing.

“The purpose of the item was not to design a cheap product or a disposable product,” Newson said. “It was designed as a very high quality writing instrument for a younger demographic; who I might add probably doesn’t have the same historical relationship with writing instruments as someone of my generation.”

The M pens have a sleeker design than the typical Montblanc writing instrument. The rounded shape gradually moves to a flat surface at its end—a new design direction for the luxury brand. These elements are among Newson’s trademark biomorphic style, defined by its fluid and pure organic forms. 

Meanwhile, the pens have the iconic elements associated with Montblanc, such as Montblanc emblem made of white resin on the tip and on the flattened end. The platinum-plated clip is mounted into the cap so it doesn’t interrupt the design flow. The ruthenium-plated metal (a platinum alloy) forepart that balances the weight of the writing instrument is engraved with “MONTBLANC.” The 14k gold nib for the first time is plated in two tones, using rhodium and ruthenium. The nib is engraved with the letters “MN” for the designer.

“If you look at the type of person we were trying to pitch, I think the product had to be recognizably Montblanc and it had to be slightly more modern slightly more contemporary in its lines at the same time,” Newson said. “If you saw it in the window of a shop you have to be able to recognize that it’s a Montblanc. There were these two dynamics that we had to play with.”

A key functional aspect of this writing instrument is the magnetic closing of the cap and barrel, with what is described as “an additional snap mechanism” designed to the make the closure smoother and ensure the cap stays firm.

Newson said Montblanc CEO Jérôme Lambert approached him with the problem of designing a new writing instrument for a new audience. The two have worked together previously when Lambert had the same position with luxury watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre. Newson designed the Atmos 561 and 566 clocks. 

Newson described the task as a problem solving exercise. 

“He asked me if I would be interested in designing something quite specific for Montblanc,” Newson said. “Not a project but a specific target in mind and he thought I could add some value. A series of writing instruments with the same sort of design.”

The result is a collection that is both contemporary in form and speaks to the legacy of the brand. 

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16 Luxury Watches from 16 Luxury Brands: The Best of SIHH 2015

The 25th edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) was held about a month ago in Geneva. It is the first major watch tradeshow of the year and it is also considered by many to be the most exclusive and luxurious of them all. A total of 16 brands exhibit in which 11 are owned by Switzerland-based luxury goods holding company, Compagnie Financière Richemont.

There is an astonishing amount of creative, technological and innovative diversity in the Swiss watch industry and the products below represent the broad range of what’s available. I only focused on a single product from each brand so to be sure there will be more to write over the course of a year.

A Lange & Söhne
This year the company focused on sound with its Zeitwerk Minute Repeater (top photo). The Zeitwerk is a decimal minute repeater, which means it strikes at ten-minute intervals and at each minute.

The striking mechanism is triggered with a pusher. The time is sounded with a low-pitched chime for each hour, an offset double tone for each ten-minute period, and a high-pitched tone for each minute. For example, on the photograph of the watch the time is 7:52. When the pusher is triggered there are seven low sounding chimes for the hour. For the “five,” both hammers strike in an offset fashion five times. For the “two,” the high-pitched chime strikes twice.

A pusher is used—instead of a slide, typical for a minute repeater, because that is where the power typically derives. For the Zeitwerk the barrel of the caliber L043.5 mechanical movement provides the power.

If the minute repeater is going through its process at the same time a new minute is suppose to appear in the aperture, the jumping mechanism will pause until the minute repeater is finished.

Audemars Piguet
The Diamond Punk is a bold, tough looking timepiece that sneers at traditional, delicate jewelry watches.

A total of 56 white gold pyramids are faceted to create a spiky look reminiscent of the punk rock era. The pyramids are covered in 7,848 snow-set diamonds. A sliding cover reveals the 18k white gold dial, snow-set with 300 diamonds. It can be worn as a bracelet or timepiece.

More than 1,400 hours of work by designers, jewelers and gem-setters went into creating this watch.

Baume & Mercier
Baume & Mercier is using its Classima watch collection for men and women to introduce the world of luxury watches to young people. It’s positioning the watch as a way for young people to celebrate their first success, such as graduating college or landing that first job. This is a classic Swiss watch has a low enough price to get them interested and enough detail to keep their interests.

The 40 mm Classima Men’s in steel or two-tone versions has a redesigned dial with a date aperture at 3 o’clock and the center in line guilloche décor. The hours, minutes and seconds hands are in blued steel or gilt. It’s powered by a modified automatic Sellita movement.

The 36.5 mm-diameter size Classima Women collection of six watches is available in a quartz or automatic movement. The white or mother-of-pearl dial is centered with sunray guilloché.

Cartier
The French luxury house introduced a new watch shape, a new crown and new movement into one watch collection for men and women called Clé de Cartier.

Clé means “key” in French. The crown isn’t round. Instead it’s long with a cabochon sapphire in middle. You don’t pull the crown to wind the watch. You turn it like a key in a lock and it sort of locks into place after each revolution.

The new shape is a round case surrounded by a rounded cushion shape. The 1847 MC movement was made in house. There are five models in this collection, two for men and three for women.

Greubel Forsey
The young, independent company introduced its seventh “invention” at SIHH: The Mechanical Computer and its first application of it: The QP à Équation.

Described as a “sub-assembly” of 25 parts, it is being used to measure the Equation of Time. This is the difference throughout the year between solar time and mean time (conventionally fixed at 24 hours per day throughout the year). The length of a day in solar time varies according to the position of the earth on its elliptical orbit around the sun.

The Mechanical Computer in the QP à Équation automatically displays the indications of the perpetual calendar through to the equation of time: the seasons, the equinoxes, the solstices, the equation of time, and the date, day, month and the four-digit year. The eight indications are controlled by a single selector in the movement's winding crown. Turning it in either direction adjusts all indications with no risk of damaging the mechanism.

The equation of time is displayed by two sapphire crystal discs driven by the Mechanical Computer which rotates them independently to show the time difference as it changes throughout the year.

IWC
The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition 75th Anniversary is reminiscent of the original Portugieser from the 1930s. The in-house 59215-caliber has an eight-day power reserve. The red gold reference is limited to 175 watches, while the steel case, ardoise (grayish purple) dial variant is limited to 750 pieces.

It has all the esthetic attributes of the Portugieser: Arabic numerals, slim feuille hands, railway-track-style chapter ring and small seconds at 6 o’clock. However, the inner chapter ring, hour indices and Arabic numerals are in gold-brown with black edging. The 18k red gold with silver-plated dial inherited the color scheme and company logo of its forebear almost without change. Light green dial elements on the stainless steel version contrast against the matte black dial. A new feature is the date display on the subdial at 6 o’clock.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
The dial of the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication depicts the starry Northern Hemisphere sky. The timepiece is dedicated to astronomical time measurement.

The sidereal orbital tourbillion in its titanium cage whirls around the dial in a counter-clockwise revolution in 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds (reflecting sidereal time, which astronomers use to track stars and other heavenly bodies in the night sky). The 24-hour day (the “civil” time) is measured by a small sun on the outer part of the dial that rotates around the dial. The sky-chart and rotation is also used as a calendar that indicates the Zodiac and month.

Finally, there’s a minute-repeater that chimes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. This is all powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 945 mechanical hand-wound movement.

Montblanc
The Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama traces the route from Europe to India by sea made by the Portuguese explorer. The 47 mm red gold case surrounds a three-dimensional dial. The 281-part, hand-wound tourbillon caliber MB M68.40, made at Montblanc’s Villeret manufacturing unit (which specializes in hand-made movements) features a one-minute tourbillon mechanism with a cylindrical hairspring.

The movement supports numerous functions, including: a triple time zone with local time displayed in hours and minutes; the home time presented on a three-dimensional 12-hour compass rose at 6 o’clock; and a pair of globes depicting the World´s 24 time zones in the Northern and Southern Hemisphere, along with the passage of day and night.

Engravings and miniature paintings on the two halved globes indicate in relief the outlines of the continents, their borders and the oceans that separate them, recalling, on a daily basis, the sea route through the Earth’s two hemispheres that da Gama sailed in 1497.

The globes illustrate the day and night in the Northern and Southern Hemisphere along with latitude and longitude.

Panerai
Radiomir Firenze is a watch that honors its roots in the city of Florence. The AISI 316L stainless steel case is completely hand-engraved with motifs inspired by Florentine iconography. Each case requires more than a week of work by one engraver.

The 47 mm case has the same dimensions of the first watch created by the company in 1936. The watch is powered by the mechanical P.3000 caliber.

It’s limited to 99 units and will only be sold at Panerai’s historic Florence boutique in Piazza San Giovanni, where the company was founded. Since the case is hand-engraved, no two are identical.

Parmigiani
Honoring the 10th anniversary of a partnership between Parmigiani and luxury car maker Bugatti, the luxury watch brand unveiled two new timepieces: Bugatti Révélation and Bugatti Victoire. They are modeled after the Bugatti type 370 movement, which was the first watch produced by the partnership. The tubular shaped movement resembles an engine block. It was introduced to mark the partnership in 2004 and created a bit of a stir due to its unusual shape.

A third watch in the 10th anniversary line, Bugatti Mythe, was introduced in August 2014.

The motif of the Bugatti Victoire (pictured) is formed of concentric Vs, evoking the skid marks left on the track by a racing car. The geometric shapes were produced by engraving work on the white gold that makes it looks darker. The artisan who engraved this watch is the same one who worked on the Bugatti Centenaire in 2004, one of the first pieces in the collection. The side sections are set with diamonds. The leather strap was cut in the same V pattern.

Piaget
The company released the Emperador Coussin 1270S, the world’s thinnest ultra-thin tourbillon automatic skeleton watch, with a case measuring 8.85 mm thick. The cushion-shaped, ultra-thin (5.05 mm) tourbillon automatic skeleton caliber 1270S was designed and developed specifically for the 46.5 mm cushion-shaped case housing it. The caliber consists of 225 parts and took more than three years to develop.

The inverted architecture of this movement provides a view of the platinum oscillating weight and bridges. The off-centered micro-rotor and the tourbillion, topped with a P for Piaget, form a figure 8, providing a clear view of the main functional elements of this watch.

The watch is available in white and pink gold.

Ralph Lauren
The 867 collection, named after the New York flagship store at 867 Madison Avenue, reflects the style of the Art Deco era.

The Ralph Lauren 867 Petite Diamond timepiece has a 21.50mm 18k white gold case set with 289 round, brilliant-cut diamonds as well as 12 baguette-cut diamonds and attached to a black suede strap. It houses a Swiss quartz movement, decorated with Côtes de Genève.

Richard Mille
The centerpiece of the RM 19-02 Fleur lady’s timepiece is a tourbillon topped with a magnolia made of painted white gold leaves. Once per hour or on command with the push of a button, pink leaves of the magnolia opens to reveal the tourbillion. The center of the tourbillion extends up 1 mm imitating the stamen of the flower.

To make this happen, the grade 5 titanium tourbillon caliber uses 5 levers that surround the underside of the petals, with another system that uses a long pinion to raise the flying tourbillon and “stamen” upwards within the flower’s circumference. The energy for this action is supplied by a separate winding barrel.

Roger Dubuis
This year, the brand declared 2015 as the year of the “Astral Skeleton,” unveiling several skeleton interpretations. For its “creative” skeleton, the brand released the Excalibur Brocéliande. Decorative jewelry elements are entwined with the skeleton flying tourbillon movement and the dial.

The decorative elements of 18k gold vines include white round diamonds with touches of colored ivy leaves produced from precision cut gems in autumn colors of pink, yellow, and orange. They are added to the tourbillion movement without disturbing its operation.

The watch is available in a limited edition of 28-pieces.

Vacheron Constantin
For its 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveiled two timepieces in its Métiers d’Art collection distinguished by hand-engraved movements that keep with classic ornamental watchmaking traditions. The plates and bridges of the hand-wound calibers are adorned with delicate floral motifs, reminiscent of the engravings of the first pocket watches created by Vacheron Constantin.

The caliber 4400 hand-engraved movement of the Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Gravées is housed in a 950 platinum, 39 mm-diameter round case. There is no dial covering the movement in order to fully display the subtle floral motifs. It takes more than 10 days to craft the movement.

It is available only at Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

Van Cleef & Arpels
Successful luxury brands are exceptional storytellers, but you’d be hard-pressed to find any company that does it better than Van Cleef & Arpels.

The two newest releases in the “Poetic Complications” collection express the watchmaker’s art and the constant renewal of time. Both in white gold with a bezel set in round diamonds, these 38 mm timepieces combine the technical prowess of a quality movement with various hand-crafted techniques that display a gradual story over a 24-hour period.

For the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Oiseaux de Paradis (Day Night Bird of Paradise), a bird of paradise sets its plume of feathers down upon a bird of paradise flower. As the day moves on, the feathers gradually recede making way for a diamond moon. The artistic scene was created with various hand-crafted techniques including cloisonné enamel and engraved gold.

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