Lady Gaga Is Tudor’s Newest Brand Ambassador

Pop superstar Lady Gaga has become the newest face for Tudor’s “Born to Dare” advertising campaign.

She will join soccer star and fashion icon, David Beckham, and Beauden Barrett, star of the New Zealand All Blacks championship rugby team, in the advertising campaign, which states that those who wear Tudor watches “reinvent themselves every day.” 

As part of the campaign, the Swiss luxury watch brand also is partnering with the All Blacks team and the DHL New Zealand Lions Series 2017, an international rugby series. The campaign was unveiled earlier this year.

“The infamously daring pop icon (is) notorious for being provocative both on- and off-stage and leading a foundation committed to empower youth, she personifies the very ‘BornToDare’ spirit Tudor lives by since its creation,” Tudor said in a statement.

In the first photograph as Tudor brand ambassador, she appears in a hardened pose sitting, staring straight at the camera wearing a tight fitted all-black outfit with huge, round padded shoulders. Her black hair is straight up, defying gravity, and her cheeks are lined with black and white glitter. She’s sitting with her arms crossed. She does resemble an All-Black rugby player. 

On her wrist is the 41mm Heritage Black Bay Red with a burgundy unidirectional rotatable bezel, black dial, rose-gold hands and markers, cream colored luminescent coating and a distressed red-leather strap. It is powered by the in-house MT5602 caliber with a 70-hour power reserve.

Lady Gaga is a world class musician, songwriter, singer, dancer, actress and style icon who has earned six Grammy Awards, a Golden Globe, numerous MTV Awards and has sold 150 million singles and more than 30 million albums.

“When you try and think of a daring individual in today’s popular culture, it is hard to find anyone more fitting the description than Lady Gaga. Behind the glitter and glam, her provocative style and political statements, she is about total showmanship,” Tudor said in its statement.

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Citizen To Acquire Frederique Constant In a Swiss-Japanese Partnership

Frederique Constant Geneva headquarters

Citizen Watch Co., Ltd., has entered into an agreement to acquire the Geneva-based Frederique Constant Holding, the parent company of the Frederique Constant, Alpina and DeMonaco watch brands. 

The two companies in a joint statement Friday said the acquisition is part of the Japanese watch company’s “Citizen Global Plan 2018” business plan—a multi-brand strategy where Citizen seeks to complete its brand portfolio by acquiring Swiss brands. 

The acquisition will enable Citizen Watch to strengthen its brand portfolio, offering Swiss timepieces in three categories: traditional Swiss watches (Frederique Constant), sport watches (Alpina) and haute horlogerie (DeMonaco).

There was no mention whether MMT (Manufacture Modules Technologies Sàrl.) is part of the deal. MMT was founded a year ago as a joint venture between Frederique Constant Holding and Silicon Valley to bring an horological smartwatch open platform to the Swiss watch industry. 

Citizen said the present management personnel and staff will continue to hold the same positions after this acquisition.

“We have a great opportunity to expand the sales of Frederique Constant through our current distribution channels of Citizen branded watches, particularly in Japan and the U.S.” said Toshio Tokura, Citizen Watch CEO. “With the acquisition of Frederique Constant, the Citizen Watch Group will be able to augment its portfolio of brands and occupy the space in the markets where some of our competitors operate and further expand the presence of the Citizen brand in the market.” 

He added “Citizen will be able to achieve great synergy for sharing technologies and infrastructures in the future.”

Aletta and Peter Stas, who founded Frederique Constant Holding SA in 2008 to develop tradition high-quality Swiss timepieces at affordable prices, were always staunchly independent. They said they were approached by two companies a year ago and entered into discussions with them only when it became apparent their children were not interested in taking over the business.

“After a year of deep discussions, we felt best with one group in terms of expectations and strategy. This group required, specifically, to keep both of us and the current management team in place for at least five years,” the husband and wife owners said in their own statement. 

In the statement with Citizen, they said: “As we feel a tremendous commitment to the Frederique Constant Group and its people, we started to explore a potential collaboration to secure the company beyond ourselves. We have become increasingly impressed by the innovative technologies of the Citizen Group. We see the opportunity of Swiss-Japanese partnership to develop and market Accessible Luxury watches for the 21st century and beyond.” 

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Vikings Star Katheryn Winnick Talks Raymond Weil Watches

Katheryn Winnick and Elle Bernheim, Raymond Weil CEO

It’s been just over a year that Katheryn Winnick became the brand ambassador of Raymond Weil. Since that time the watch brand has been busy producing timepieces for the star of History Channel television series Vikings to promote, including one watch with a blue-gray dial that matches the color of her eyes. 

Most recently at Baselworld 2016, the company introduced, “Shine,” designed for the actress. Both Winnick and Elle Bernheim, Raymond Weil CEO, were in New York a week ago to talk about the new collection and Winnick’s relationship with the brand. 

The Shine watch

Bernheim said he is a fan of the show in which Winnick plays Lagertha, a legendary figure in Viking history. When he met the Toronto resident, the decision to sign her came quickly. 

“Women can relate to her personality and elegance,” he said. 

The actress in a promotional photograph for Raymond Weil

For Winnick, she said she is attracted to the comfortable, casual nature of the family owned company and the personality of its watches, particularly the Shine collection, which she says has a casual elegance.

“It’s a timepiece with meaning,” she said. “I can wear it from day into the night. It has a casual elegance.”

The new Shine timepiece is a traditional jewelry watch in a 32mm round case available in steel or PVD coated steel with the option of a diamond-covered bezel. The dial is available in sunburst guilloche or mother-of-pearl (a total of three dial finishes) and with a patented interchangeable system that allows the user to easily and discreetly change the watch from steel bracelet to a satin strap. As Winnick says it’s designed to be worn day and night and in casual and formal situations. 

The actress wearing the Shine watch. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

The dial is further enhanced with number indexes alternating between eight diamonds and four Roman numerals. 

The cost ranges from $1,750 to $3,000, Bernheim said. It's planned to be released in time for Mother's Day gift giving. 

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Slowing Watch Sales Bring More Variety At SIHH 2016

The prototype Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Nuit Lumineuse watch with diamonds that light like stars using a mechanical power source

SIHH, the second largest gather of the Swiss watch industry, was held January 18 - 22 as reports emerged confirming that watch sales have slowed. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said Tuesday that exports for 2015 declined 3.3 percent year-over-year to 21.5 billion Swiss francs ($21.1 billion). This coincided with Richemont’s third quarter earnings statement two weeks earlier, which reported that sales fell by 4 percent year-over-year at constant exchange rate to 2.92 billion Swiss francs ($2.86 billion).

The blame for the decline range from the combined austerity measures and stock market turbulence in China, the effects of a strong Swiss currency (particularly in Europe) and the introduction of the Apple Watch, which may have resulted in the steep decline of watch exports in the 200-franc to 500-franc price range. Even the Paris terrorist attacks had a major impact on watch in the “City of Light,” according to reports. And 2016 is looking like another year of softer sales.

One thing that hasn’t changed is silly stories in the consumer press that tout complicated timepieces as being “insane” and a layered, carbon-fiber writing instrument that uses a mechanical movement to expose and retract the nib as a “crazy ass pen.”

Back to the matter at hand, despite slowing sales the mood at SIHH was largely positive. The 24 watch brands presented more than enough new items in a number of styles and price points to leave retailers and trade journalists satisfied. One UK retailer told me that prices were more “realistic” this year.

The Parmigiani Senfine concept watch movement with 45-day power reserve

Among the biggest developments, two were for products that were not yet available to the public. The Parmigiani Senfine concept movement, which boasts a remarkable 45-day power reserve, and the Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Nuit Lumineuse watch, which has diamonds that light like stars using a mechanical power source (top photo).

Richard Mille RM 50-02 ACJ Tourbillon Spilt Seconds Chronograph

The other big release was the RM 50-02 Tourbillon Spilt Seconds Chronograph ACJ Chronograph, made in a partnership with the exclusive Airbus Corporate Jets division of the Airbus Group. It incorporates design details and materials of the ACJ aircraft. It’s limited to 30 pieces and has a price tag of more than $1 million.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon

A. Lange & Söhne, which has mastered the ability to create highly technical movements and house them inside beautifully balanced dials, introduced the latest edition of its highly praised Datograph chronograph timepieces, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. This newest version from the proudly German company combines the Datograph chronograph with a flyback function and Up/Down power reserve indicator and the typical Lange outsize date; with a perpetual calendar with a moon-phase display; and a tourbillon exposed on the sapphire-crystal caseback and the open tourbillon bridge. 

This year, for the first time, the established 15 brands (11 owned by the Swiss holding company, Richemont) at SIHH were joined by nine watch artisan-creators and independent workshops. They all showcased their unique approach to watchmaking. One brand, Ralph Lauren, pulled out of the show this year.

MB&F Sherman table clock in gold

MB&F, perhaps the most successful of the new group, not only introduced its latest “horological machine” but also unveiled its latest in artistic and creative table clocks. Called “Sherman,” it is once again made in partnership with Swiss clock manufacturer, L’Epée 1839. It is in the shape of a boyish robot, with movable arms and hands, and tank-like caterpillar tracks for feet. It was inspired by the US Sherman tank and MB&F’s founder, Maximilian Büsser’s on-going quest to revisit his childhood. The balance and escapement of L’Epée’s eight-day, in-line movement is located under the transparent dome of Sherman's head.

The Roger Dubuis Blossom Velvet ladies timepiece

Finally, Roger Dubuis declared 2016 to be the “Year of the Velvet Diva” by focusing on a collection of ladies watches called, Velvet. The five-watch collection combines high jewels powered by robust automatic movements.

For more highlights from what is rightfully touted as the watch industry’s most luxurious and exclusive watch show, stay turned to this blog.

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Swatch Group Reports Record Sales For 2013 But Warns of Overvaluation of Swiss Franc

Swatch Group Ltd., the largest Swiss watch business, on Monday said year-over-year gross sales for 2013 increased 8.3 percent to 8.82 billion Swiss francs ($9.7 billion), far outpacing the 1.8 percent growth for the rest of the Swiss watch industry at the end of November. 

“This clearly indicates the gain in market share,” the company, which consists of 20 watch brands encompassing all market segments as well as luxury jeweler Harry Winston, said in a statement. “In production, specific capacities have been expanded and put into operation. Additional increases in capacity are either in the planning phase or already under construction.”

The company—which designs, manufactures, distributes and sells finished watches, watch movements, watch components, electronic systems and jewelry—said that excluding production, revenue increased more than 10 percent.

It also forecasts a “positive outlook” for 2014, which has already begun with a “strong start by all brands.” 

However, the company warns that that despite its robust growth and forecast, the ongoing over-valuation of the Swiss Franc, particularly against the US dollar and Japanese yen, is having a negative impact on its sales. For example, in the second half of the year, the company said the negative effect of currency exchange rates cost it more than 100 million Swiss francs ($110 million). Its electronics operation reported a decrease of 3.9 percent due to price pressures placed by the overvaluation of the Swiss currency.

Despite this negative currency situation, it expects good results for 2013 at operating profit and net income level. The Swatch Group’s key figures will be published at the latest on 20 February 2014. Publication of the annual report at a media and analysts’ conference on 20 March 2014 is planned.

The company, in its statement, didn’t address a December 30 fire that destroyed its ETA movement operation. These watch movements are among the most common in the industry. They are used to power watches from Swatch Group brands such as Blancpain and Longines and for many other watches used by their competitors. It previously had said it will slow the production of watches by many brands.

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Fire Destroys Swatch Group ETA Workshop

The Valjoux 7750 or ETA 7750 is a widely used chronograph movement.  Photo credit: Wikipedia

A Sunday morning fire completely destroyed the Swatch Group's ETA workshop in Grenchen, Switzerland, the company said in a statement. No one was harmed as the facility was not in operation. 

The fire broke out at approximately 8:45 a.m. at the galvanic department of the main building and was under control at 9:30 a.m., Swatch Group said. The fire did not spread to other buildings in the complex, which contain other Swatch Group watch production subsidiaries.

"Thanks to the swift and efficient intervention of the ETA-internal fireworkers and the fireworkers of the town of Grenchen, the fire could not expand to the neighboring workshops," Swatch Group said in its statement.

The reason for the fire is not yet known, Swatch Group said, adding that it's too early to place a price tag on the damage. Company officials did not say how this will impact production. Local police informed nearby residents due to the heavy smoke. 

ETA is a subsidiary of Swatch Group. It designs and manufactures mechanical and automatic watches and watch movements. It is best known as the supplier of the overwhelming majority of movements found in Swiss watches.

Swatch Group Ltd., Biel, Switzerland, designs, manufactures, distributes and sells finished watches, watch movements, watch components, electronic systems and jewelry.

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The Oris Aquis Depth Gauge

The second and final installment of watches I missed at Basleworld but were able to see during Las Vegas Jewelry Week, deals with a specialty watch called the Aquis Depth Gauge from Oris. According to the Swiss watch brand, it is the first dive watch that measures depth by allowing water to enter the timepiece.

The company says it has applied "Boyle Mariotte Law" (which describes how the pressure of a gas tends to decrease as the volume of a gas increases) to the patented timepiece. The watch has a gray-colored channel milled into the side that runs counterclockwise around the dial, stopping between one and two o'clock. At 12 o’clock there’s a small opening. On descent, the air inside the channel is compressed by the surrounding water pressure, allowing water to enter through the opening. The edge, in light grey and dark grey, differentiates between water and compressed air on the scale around the outside of the dial, indicating depth while descending or ascending.

Besides being a cool addition to a diver’s watch, Oris says the depth gauge keeps divers safe as the indicator benefits from no inertia, so actual depth readings are seen instantly, which is useful in decompression breaks in lesser depths. It’s water-resistant to 500 meters/50 bar.

Other features of the watch include an automatic movement with a date window at 6 o’clock. The 46mm watch also comes with a waterproof case that contains interchangeable rubber and metal straps and tools.

The cost is approximately $3,200.

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Independent Watch Brands Make their Mark at Baselworld 2013

The Speake-Marin Triad

It’s officially known as the “Palace” but it’s actually a small, makeshift building on the Basel fairgrounds (Messe Basel), home of Baselworld 2013, the world’s biggest and most important watch and jewelry tradeshow. Royalty may not inhabit this portable building but what is inside are some of the most creative and innovative independent watchmakers in the world. These companies are joined by equally capable small independent watch brands that were scattered among the 1,460 exhibitors throughout the massive complex of buildings.

Their visions may be entirely different, but one thing these companies do share is keen intellect, creativity and passion. The individuals who lead these small firms are highly skilled at combining the highest forms of modern watching with an advance design esthetic and a singular vision.

It was impossible for me to visit them all but what is presented below are nine companies and their products as a representative sample of the technical prowess and artistry of these firms at the recently-concluded tradeshow. They are as follows:

Arnold & Son
The Swiss company with British heritage created what it says is the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. Called the UTTE (Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Escapement), the case of this timepiece is 8.34 mm thick. It is equipped with the A&S8200 movement that is just 2.97 mm thick. The caliber was created in-house at the brand’s La Chaux-de-Fonds workshops. It is limited to 50 pieces.

Christophe Claret
The French native who operates out of Le Locle, Switzerland, introduced the Kantharos at Baselworld— a complex monopusher chronograph with an integrated in-house automatic movement. It features a striking cathedral gong at the 10 o’clock mark that chimes with each change of function. The constant-force escapement is on the dial side at 6 o’clock. The energy delivered to the escapement remains constant from beginning to end of the power reserve.

Da Vindice Geneva
A watch complication I never encountered is a barometer. It was a passion and challenge for Cosimo Vindice, founder of the new Geneva-based watch brand with Italian heritage, to include this and a tourbillon in a single watch built in-house. An aneroid barometer is used for the Da Vindice’s Videx Tourbillon Barometer timepiece. Atmospheric pressure is managed in a capsule, sealed with the air partially removed from it. The changes in pressure are visible on a subdial placed at 6 o’clock. The watch is designed to accommodate this complication. It is available in white or rose gold.

Dubey & Schaldenbrand
The stainless steel tonneau-shaped Grand Dome R92 Column Wheel Chronograph is another example of how this watch brand produces timepieces that combine vintage movements with modern craftsmanship and design. The R92 movement was originally fabricated in the 1950s. It uses a swivel-pinion design to synchronize the chronograph components. The dial is exposed providing full view of the movement.

Franc Vila
The Spanish native is one of the best-known and most innovative independent Swiss watchmakers in the world. The latest edition to his Intrepido Collection, the FVi No 8 Tourbillon Intrepido SuperLigero Skeleton, has a skeletonized hand-wound tourbillon and 100-hour power reserve. Its set into a grade 5 titanium case coated with black DLC, with an 18k red gold bezel. Visible through the sapphire crystal, the dial exposes the in-house movement.

Linde Werdelin
The German watch brand launched the Oktopus II Moon in a series of 59 pieces, available in two versions. The first 12 pieces, representing one piece for each moon of the 2013 calendar year, feature a rose gold and titanium DLC case with ceramic bezel. The following 47 pieces are available in a DLC titanium case with a ceramic bezel. The Oktopus II Moon’s complication, developed in-house, displays the phases of the moon on its dial as one would see it in the sky. As the moon moves clockwise through its monthly cycle, more of its surface is illuminated.

MB&F
The company that released a music box at Baselworld 2013 also decided it was a good idea to release an advancement to its well-known Horological Machine No. 3 (HM3) series: The Megawind. The focus of this piece is a giant battle-axe shaped winding rotor that swings unhurriedly, but indomitably, over the hand-finished movement. The titanium arms of the rotor intermittently reveal views through to the oscillating balance wheel. It’s available in red gold with a 22k red gold rotor or white gold with a sky-blue 22k gold rotor.

Speake-Marin (top photo)
One of the most passionate and intelligent independent watchmakers I met at Baselworld 2013 is British native Peter Speake-Marin, founder of the eponymous Swiss watch brand. His creations are complex in their functions and their stories, yet they adhere to the tradition of fine Swiss watchmaking. The Triad features triple hour-minute indications over an open dial powered by an Eros 2 automatic winding movement. Three is a number heavy with symbolism and meaning; encompasses beginning, middle and end; birth, life, and death; past, present and future. In music, a triad is a three-note chord played simultaneously to provide a single sound. It is available in a limited edition of 88 pieces in stainless steel with an 18k red gold bezel.

York
The new release of the Royal Black Caviar watch has all of the pomp one would expect from a watch brand fronted by Earl York, a prince of the former Schaumburg-Lippe, a tiny principality in the Lower Saxony region of modern-day Germany. The watch comes in a handcrafted Wengé case that includes a caviar service for two. However, this timepiece is more than just packaging. It is a serious traditional watch created by the Schaumburg Watch company, which York serves as creative director and shareholder. The 18k, 44 mm gold case is topped by a bezel set with 53 black diamonds and five black diamonds on the crown. The black textured strap is made of indo-pacific stingray leather with a textured finish that is looks like caviar eggs. The mechanical movement SW 07 is made in house. It is available in a limited edition of 99.

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Baselworld’s ‘Opening Act’

Baselworld representatives at opening day press conference.

BASEL, Switzerland — Baselworld, the premiere event of the Swiss watch industry, on Wednesday unveiled the latest renovation to the multi-building complex that it calls home. The $454.5-million upgrade reflects the spectacular success of an industry that has defied the trials and tribulations of the worldwide economy and a product that has remained popular despite changing fashion and trends. It also is a response to an industry now dominated by a few luxury conglomerates.

The eight-day watch and jewelry fair actually opens Thursday. Wednesday was press day, where top officials discussed the tradeshow and the industry in general. The discussion of the new design was described as Baselworld’s “opening act” by Sylvie Ritter, managing director of the tradeshow.

While several buildings underwent dramatic change under the leadership of architects Herzog & de Meuron, most eyes are focused on Hall 1, now rebranded as the “Global Hall.” It is the main area for some of the most world-renowned watch and jewelry brands. This year, the area not only underwent dramatic structural change, but occupants changed as well. Several brands (mostly independent) were moved to other areas of the complex. Now brands represented by global conglomerates Swatch Group and LVMH far outnumber independent brands. These include Hublot, Tag Heuer, Breguet and Bulgari.

Independent brands that remain in Hall 1 include Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Ulysse Nardin.

René Kamm, CEO of MCH Group, which operates the Basel fairgrounds (Messe Basel), explained that the redesigned hall is reserved for “watch and jewelry brands that have a global impact and a worldwide reach.”

Speakers put on a unified front and spent a great of deal of time thanking exhibitors. However, change this dramatic does not come easy and several exhibitors who have lost their space in Hall 1 were not happy (although refusing to voice their displeasure publicly).

All of this change also came at a price. Several brand executives told me (or refused to dispute) that exhibiting in Hall 1—which includes the construction of multi-story, elaborate temporary showrooms that also have been upgraded this year—now costs upwards of $5 million.

Jacques J. Duchêne, president of the Baselworld Exhibitors’ Committee, said it is the domination of luxury conglomerates that has led to the changes at Baselworld.

“In the course of the past 15 years, the watch and jewelry industry has been through a consolidation process on a scale never witnessed before, and this has also had its effects on the challenges faced by production and marketing, which have changed radically,” Duchêne said. “Now it is a good thing to take note of changes and to adjust to them, but it is even better still to anticipate needs and to be in a position to satisfy them without delay when they arise.”

The price hike and the pressure to create more elaborate booths were also felt among exhibitors who don’t have the deep pockets of the brands in Hall 1. A few companies actually pulled out of the show. Perhaps seeing an opportunity, Hong Kong-based tradeshow and publishing company, UBM Asia, will open its first tradeshow in the European market next year in nearby Freiburg, Germany, with dates that overlap Baselworld.

 

The international press at the opening of Baselworld

But even though some are a bit disgruntled, the 1,460 companies from 40 countries exhibiting recognize the importance of being there in terms of sheer numbers, glamour and international attention. Many brands will bring international celebrities along to help present their new products. More than 3,500 journalists from 70 countries will be covering the event and approximately 100,000 people will attend.

The show is also buoyed by the amazing success of the Swiss watch industry. In 2012, the industry has produced another record year with exports totaling 21.4 billion Swiss francs ($22.6 billion), a 10.9 percent increase over 2011.

“Today, it is thanks to this excellent state of health of the industry that we are able to present the show to you in its attractive new look,” Duchêne said. 

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Swiss Watch Industry To End Association with Swiss Business Federation

The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said it will end its association with the Swiss Business Federation (economiesuisse) at the end of the year because the business federation, which represents the diversity of businesses in Switzerland, will not support the watch industry’s definition of “Swisness.”

“By failing to support the Federal Council’s proposal for industrial products, which sets at 60 percent the minimum rate of Swiss value in a Swiss product, economiesuisse not only stands in the way of strengthening the protection of this label, but raises the likelihood of it becoming weaker than it is at present,” FH said in a statement.

One of the primary tasks of the FH is to ensure that watches, clocks and other timepieces meet a series of requirements to ensure the product was built within the borders of Switzerland. Those that meet those requirements display the “Swiss made” or “Swiss” label. Among the requirements are that the timepiece movement is made in Switzerland, the movement is “cased up” in Switzerland and the final inspection is done in Switzerland.

FH is also active in protecting the industry and its label from counterfeiters.

The FH in its statement says that the Swiss Business Federation “runs counter to the interests of the Swiss watch industry.”

“The watch industry is certainly the industrial sector most affected by this subject, considering that nearly 100 percent of its products carry the label,” the statement read. “The latter contributes to the attractiveness of Swiss watches and their psychological appeal.”

They argue that “strengthening of the Swiss-made label generally promotes industrial activity in Switzerland and job creation.”

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Swatch Group Underscores Strength of the Swiss Watch Industry

Swatch Group, the world’s largest watch company, said Tuesday that its watch and jewelry sales for the first half of 2012 grew 16.7 percent to 3.4 billion Swiss francs ($3.42 billion), year-over-year. The company owns 19 watch and jewelry brands in all market segments, including Swatch, Breguet and Longines.

The results by Swiss company underscores the strength and resiliency of the Swiss watch industry despite the economic problems facing much of the world. Last week, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reported that watch sales for the first half of the year increased by 16.9 percent to 9.5 billion francs ($9.55 billion).

Swatch Group—which also produces movements, hands, crowns, cases, screws, pallets, escapements, electronic circuits, batteries, ceramics and sapphire for its own products and its competitors—saw its gross sales increase 14.4 percent to 3.84 billion francs ($3.86 billion), surpassing the record 2011 half-year figure.

Operating profit for the first half of the year increased by 19.4 percent to 903 million Swiss francs ($908.6 million). Net income increased 25 percent to 724 million francs, year-over-year ($728.4 million).

The Biel/Bienne-based company, in its outlook, expects “dynamic growth in all segments and regions, notably also outside Asia,” for the second half of the year.

Girard-Perregaux Gives Desmond Tutu 1966 Collection Watch

Nobel Peace Laureate Archbishop Desmond Tutu was in Los Angeles Thursday for a public conversation with author Robert V. Taylor titled, “How to be Happy, Change the World and Embrace a New Way to be Human.”

More than 500 guests attended the event at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s Bing Auditorium, which was followed by a private reception.

Also in attendance as an event sponsor and supporter of the Desmond Tutu Peace Foundation was Girard-Perregaux. The luxury Swiss watch brand presented Archbishop Tutu with an engraved 1966 collection watch in honor of his philanthropic accomplishments around the world.

The Desmond Tutu Peace Foundation helps people and societies create cultures of peace by developing programs that focus on young people through the use of new media and traditional methods.

Hublot Unveils Its Big Bang Ferrari in Japan

Big Bang Ferrari

Luxury Swiss watch brand, Hublot, the official timekeeper of the Ferrari Challenge, unveiled the Big Bang Ferrari in Japan during the Ferrari Racing Days Suzuka 2012, held in Suzuka City, March 16 - 18.

Ferrari Racing Days Suzuka 2012 is one of largest events in the world for the Italian car manufacturer. One of its highlights was the Concorso d’Eleganza supported by Hublot, which brought together 18 classic cars from the 1950s and ‘60s.

Hublot’s Chairman, Jean-Claude Biver, attended the event—which included a charity auction in support of Ishinomaki City, affected by the earthquake and tsunami in 2011. Hublot donated a Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold, for auction. The winning bid was 4.1 million Japanese yen ($49,100). Biver personally topped topped the bid with an additional $4,800.

Hublot Chairman, Jean-Claude Biver

The Big Bang Ferrari (top picture), a collaboration with the Italian car manufacturer, underwent its first update since it was launched in 2005. The design was done in collaboration with Ferrari. A larger case (45.5 mm in diameter), more power and more mechanical features, a cylindrical bezel that offers added depth, the movement which can be seen through the sapphire dial, an indexed crown (with the H logo which is automatically positioned to remain in line), elongated push buttons fixed along a rotating axis like the pedals in a car, carbon inserts on the case profile, two interchangeable straps, and the same tone-on-tone stitching used on Ferrari upholstery. The Ferrari Prancing Horse logo is featured discreetly in relief at 9 o'clock. A minute counter is positioned at 3 o'clock (completed by a yellow date window), and the hand and the style of the indexes are inspired by the counters in a Ferrari.

Finally, the Ferrari-endorsed pieces are made with Hublot’s Magic Gold, a scratch-resistant 18k gold the watch manufacturer introduced three months ago.

The timepiece was first unveiled approximately a week earlier at Baselworld 2012 in Switzerland.

In November 2011, Hublot became the watchmaking partner of Ferrari. It is a comprehensive agreement covering all the activities of Ferrari and Hublot, both in terms of brand image and the commercial activities of both companies.

Baselworld 2012 Closes with Strong Results, Upbeat and Confident

Business was brisk at Baselworld 2012 and the attitude of both exhibitors and buyers was upbeat and confident.

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year Fortunately, veteran watch journalist, William George Shuster, kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his fourth and final report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent

BASEL, Switzerland — The just-ended Baselworld 2012, the world’s most important and largest watch and jewelry tradeshow, was one of the most successful in its history.

The eight-day show closed March 15 with a 1 percent rise in attendance (to 104,300, its second-highest attendance ever); a 9 percent gain (3,320) in the international press corps at the show; and almost universal satisfaction among vendors—especially those in the luxury sector—with the business, orders and contacts they had; and widespread confidence among retail buyers.

"It was a fascinating week, and truly a good year for us exhibitors. We are highly satisfied,” said Jacques J. Duchêne, long-time chairman of the show’s Exhibitors' Committee. Francois Thiébaud, president of the Swiss Exhibitors Committee, agreed, calling the show a "complete success."

Positive comments. Indeed, this year’s edition of the annual watch and jewelry trade fair on the Rhine in Basel, Switzerland, evoked positive comments from most vendors, both large and small.

Swiss luxury sport brand TAG Heuer, for example, welcomed 30 percent more retailers than last year. It also introduced movie star Cameron Diaz as its new brand ambassador. Luxury watch Hublot—which unveiled its one-of-a-kind $5 million diamond-encrusted timepiece--took “considerably more orders than in [2011],” said CEO Ricardo Guadalupe. At Swiss watchmaker Ellicott, “Response to our new watches—especially the world’s thinnest minute repeater with perpetual calendar (hand-wound)—was very good,” said CEO Pierre-Andre Finazzi to the show’s newspaper, “and price points and units per order are more than last year.”

Despite economic problems in Europe, the U.S. and many other regions of the world, an upbeat business attitude pervaded the fair’s buying and selling. Luxury watch brand Patek Phillippe, for example, noted “an exceedingly positive mood amongst our customers throughout the entire show,” said Jasmine Steel, international communications director, while at the Bulova Corp. stand, “People are excited about our groundbreaking products and technologies,” said Harvey Kaplan, regional vice president. “Business is hot,” declared Jacques-Philippe Auriol, CEO of TechnoMarine watches, to the show’s daily newspaper. “The booth is packed and clients are smiling.”

At Seiko, “sales are much better than expected, and there’s great interest in our new Astron GPS watch,” said Karou Matsumoto, public relations general manager. “Customers are cautiously optimistic, and we share their optimism.”

‘Gratifying’ business. In the Hong Kong delegation of vendors, the show’s second largest, “Purchasing behavior was gratifying and the potential in the boom markets, including Russia and Latin America, highly promising,” said Ralph Chow, director of product promotion for the Hong Kong Trade Development Council.

Gem dealers and vendors of technology and equipment, too, were generally upbeat about business result, as were jewelry firms. The German precious gem house of Groh + Ripp, for example, surpassed 2011’s good results by 25 percent. “The quality of the visitors was exceedingly good,” added Managing Director Bernd Willy Ripp. At Spanish jewelry firm Carrera y Carrera, “For the first time in three years, we don’t hear about the [financial] crisis,” CEO Nathalie Guedj told the BaselWolrd Daily News. “That reflects the very good business the jewelry industry did in 2011. People are confident about the future.”

The Swiss watch delegation was especially pleased. Following a record-breaking year in exports in 2011 (29.8 million watches, valued at 19.3 billion Swiss francs, or about $21 billion), its strong results for Baselworld 2012—driven in lager part by ongoing, growing demand for luxury products, especially in Asia, and China particularly, and “certain emerging markets”—promise another good year for Swiss watchmakers. “While it is always difficult to anticipate results,” said the Swiss Exhibitors Committee’s closing report. “This 40th edition [of Baselworld] augurs well for positive progress in 2012. The 20 billion franc export threshold should be easily crossed and thereby represent the third consecutive growth year [in 2012].”

The enhanced interest by the global media in the show’s news and trends and the sizeable increase in journalists covering the show was especially important to both vendors and show officials. It indicates the importance the show has gained with the global press, and “For exhibitors, the worldwide reports in the specialist, daily, business and lifestyle media, as well as in the online media, TV and radio, are of major importance,” noted Baselworld’s closing report. Luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe, for example, received over 800 journalists at it stand, “a considerable increase over previous years,” noted spokesperson Jasmina Steele.

A new era. For the 104,300 visits from 100-plus nations and the 1,851 vendors from 41 countries, this was the last time they would work in the current exhibition stands or rush hurriedly through its halls. But many said they were already looking forward to what show officials call show’s “new era” starting in 2013.

The show’s owner, MCH Group, is revamping the current Exhibition Square and its surrounding buildings, with an immense makeover valued at just under half-a-billion dollars. The expensive and extensive transformation—including two new three-story building, a two-building above the formerly outside Exhibition Square, a new events hall, and the tearing down of some of the show’s older buildings—transformation is being handled by Basel-based architects Herzog & de Meuron, who also designed the famous Bird’s Nest national stadium in Beijing. The new complex will have 141,000 m2.

Show Director Sylvia Ritter admitted to “a certain amount of nostalgia” for the current buildings sand fair grounds, which will be gone in weeks. “At the same time, I am looking forward impatiently and with great expectations to the new era that will be dawning for this world show,” she said.

The new complex, opening in April 2013, will also involve the relocation of many watch exhibitors in the current Hall 1 and the spending of millions of dollars by exhibitors on new exhibition booths and presentations. “Nearly all the brands will now be investing in their new stands for Baselworld 2013,” said Duchene. “This highlights the fact that we have a great deal of confidence in this [trade show] event, because [it] will be giving us exhibitors even more opportunities to experience positive developments in future."

The next show, Baselworld 2013, will be held April 25 – May 2, 2013.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.

Baselworld 2012: End of an Era; Baselworld 2013: A new era begins

Inside Hall 1, the Hall of Dreams, where all the major watch brands at Baselworld 2012 are located. There will be changes among the exhibitors.

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year. Fortunately, I know some of the best writers and experts in the jewelry and watch industry. One of those folks is William George Shuster who has kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his third report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent

Baselworld 2012, the 40th annual edition of the world’s largest and most important watch and jewelry show, may be its most successful yet.

But it also marks the end of an era for the trade fair. Indeed, there was a sense of finality about Baselworld 2012 that had nothing to do with business.

The reason: An enormous and costly restructuring of trade fair buildings and a redesign and revamping of Exhibition Square, the outdoor center of the fair, so total that international visitors and exhibitors from next year onward will not recognize the long-time fair site.

Indeed, Sylvie Ritter, the show director, called Baselworld 2012, a “milestone in the history of our trade show” and “a decisive turning point” before the “start of a new era” in 2013.

This newest modernization in a long history of renovations and expansions of the Basel fairgrounds is scheduled to finished and ready for the 41st edition of Baselworld in April 2013.

Trade show facilities that have housed the annual Baselworld and earlier Swiss watch and jewelry fair for much of the 20th and early 21st centuries are being torn down and replaced with massive new, three-story structures, costing millions of dollars. Show officials promise this enormous undertaking, the most extensive modernization and expansion of the show facilities in its history, will benefit both visitors and exhibitors immensely.

“With investments of around 430 million Swiss francs ($460 million), we will be able to provide our exhibitors, our trade visitors and our journalists with a fantastic trade show infrastructure,” said René Kamm, CEO MCH Group.

The 95-year-old Hall 1, site of  major watch brand exhibitors and the fair ground’s oldest building, will be rebuilt, with its front dismantled, and extended into the exhibition square by a three strew building. Hall 3, across the street (site for gemstone and equipment exhibitors) is being torn down and replaced also with a new three story complex, with a multifunctional event hall (capable of holding up to 2,500 people) on the ground floor. Linking these two buildings will be linked by a two-story complex (starting the second floor level of Hall One, roofing over exhibition square. The exhibition square (pictured left) itself will become a large atrium, open to the public and the trams which will continue to regularly ride through it.

The new complex will have a total of 141,000 square meters and will “ensure a greater level of convenience for our visitors,” says a show report. The final outcome is going to do justice to the expectations of our exhibitors,” says Jacquares Diichene, trade show chairman.

Also changing will be the locations of many exhibitors, especially those watch vendors on the first floor in Hall 1. And members of the Hong Kong exhibitors pavilion, the show’s second largest, will be moving from Hall 6 to Hall 4.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.