It was Business As Usual At The September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair began as it has done for 36 previous years. There was the traditional lion dances for good luck, buyers were queuing to enter and overall there was nervousness and anticipation among exhibitors and the organizers of the trade fair. In fact there was more nervousness as usual due to the highly publicized violent clashes between protesters and police (including the night before). However, the political crisis in Hong Kong had little relevance during the opening day of the fair. 

The number of buyers will no doubt be down from previous years as David Bondi, senior VP of Informa Markets, which organizes the fair, already said publicly. But overall the aisles were bustling with buyers doing business with vendors. 

Buyers in queue waiting for the fair to open

Canceling and postponing the show was never an option, according to Bondi. For Informa Markets, the world’s largest jewelry fair was too big and too important to the worldwide jewelry industry to postpone. It’s so big it’s held at the two largest convention venues in Hong Kong with staggered dates: The AsiaWorld-Expo, September 16 - 20 for raw materials and machinery; and the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre for finished jewelry, September 18 - 22. Rescheduling such a large fair for two venues would have been a logistical nightmare.
In 2018, the fair attracted more than 54,000 buyers and 3,700 exhibitors. Few vendors have opted out. One of the reasons was that under the contract signed with vendors Informa Markets was under no obligation to provide refunds and they were sticking to this policy. Instead, the organizers invested in a number of incentives for both exhibitors and buyers. To bring more buyers to the fair, the organizers developed aggressive initiatives to make the fair more attractive. 

The crowded pearl pavilion

The first was a telemarketing campaign in which Informa Markets staff personally contacted 50,000 buyers throughout the world. 

The second initiative was providing 10,000 complimentary hotel room nights for buyers. Each exhibitor was asked to submit the names of three significant buyers who should be entitled to two free consecutive hotel room nights during the September Fair show dates. It proved highly popular, according to the organizers. 

There were a number of softer incentives as well. For example, there was a mid-afternoon tea break and happy hour drinks as the fair ended the first day. In addition, show organizers delivered champagne and chocolate to every booth inside the fair.

Azzurra Cesari, holds up a collection of colored gems from her company, Futurgem

Perhaps even more of a factor in lower traffic among buyers is the ongoing trade war between the U.S. and China, which now includes jewelry industry products. Several exhibitors anticipate that buyers from Mainland China will be down because of this.

Vendors interviewed ranged from expressing hesitation in exhibiting to never considering canceling. 

“My only thought was how to cut my costs,” said Mishael Vardi of VMK, which deals in rare fancy colored diamonds. This is primarily due to a range of issues within the diamond industry and not so much the protests in Hong Kong, noting that outside the rarest gems “It’s a buyers’ market.” Pink diamonds from the Argyle mine in Australia, which will close in 2020, and rare colored diamonds, such as blue and green remain popular. 

Happy hour drinks and snacks following the show

Olivier Duran, sales manager of Avlas Diamonds, which specializes in high-quality colorless diamonds in fancy shapes, said his company was undecided. “There was some hesitation,” he said. “Thirty to 40% of our clients told us they were not coming to the show. We waited until the last moment.”  

For some colored gem dealers they already do a great deal of their business in China and the rest of Asia and since they are already in the region, it made sense to exhibit as usual. 

“I’m already trading in Asia,” said Charles Abouchar of Abouchar SA, a high-precision cutter of gemstones, “As long as security is okay I don’t have a problem. The buyers from the bigger companies are here.

Alexander Stufflebeam, president of Panjshir Valley, a company that deals in emeralds from Afghanistan, said he had no hesitation in coming to the fair because he does business in China and because it attracts buyers from all parts of the world. 

The day ended as it has done in recent years with the annual reception of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) as buyers and exhibitors crowded the ballroom at the SkyCity Marriott Hotel.

The big test will be Wednesday, when the show opens at the Hong Kong Convention Centre for finished jewels. 

JNA Awards Focuses On Women and Newcomers, Among Events At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

From left: Cao Thi Ngoc Dung of Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Co; Wang Chun Li of Beijing Caishikou Department Store; and Hung Ming Li of Chii Lih Coral

The JNA Awards, which has grown to become one of the top awards programs in the jewelry industry, is putting a special focus on women and young entrepreneurs this year. The three lifetime achievement award honorees are all women and the finalists for other awards is dominated for the first time by new applicants. 

“Of the 39 honoree companies that were shortlisted, almost half of them are first-time entrants, indicating a growing interest among quality companies who recognize the importance of this platform,” said Letitia Chow, chairperson of the JNA Awards, and director of Business Development -- Jewellery Group at Informa Markets. “We have also received a record number of entries from Thailand, second in ranking together with India and Hong Kong, reflecting the importance of this market which has been traditionally modest about its accomplishment.”

The JNA Lifetime Achievement Award is going to three women who “have each transformed the retail sector and influenced the industry in their own respective way,” according to JNA judging panel. They are: Cao Thi Ngoc Dung, founder and chairperson of Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company (PNJ); Hung Ming Li, founder and chairman of Taiwan-based Chii Lih Coral (Chii Lih); and Wang Chun Li, managing director and general manager of Beijing Caishikou Department Store.

In addition to the special tribute to the lifetime achievement award recipients, the winners will be announced at the JNA Awards gala on September 17 at the Intercontinental Hong Kong. It is the highlight event at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, the largest jewelry trade fair in the world. It will be held September 16 – 20 at the AsiaWorld-Expo for jewelry making materials and equipment and September 18 – 22 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre for finished jewelry. 

2018 JNA Awards gala

The JNA Awards is one of a number of special events, seminars, auctions and exhibitions that will be held throughout the seven-day show. They include the following:

* Alrosa Diamond Preview organized by Alrosa, the Russian mining company, September 16 – 20;

* GIA 88th and GIA Hong Kong’s 25th Anniversary Reception organized by the Gemological Institute of America, September 16;

* GIA GemFest 2019 organized by GIA, September 17;

* September Hong Kong Jewllery & Gem Fair Opening Fair Reception organized by Informa Markets, September 18;

* The unveiling of two fine jewelry collections by British luxury carmaker Bentley, which is celebrating “100 extraordinary years” in 2019, through an exclusive partnership with Heinz Mayer, a family-owned manufacturer dating back to 1599, in the Grand Foyer of the HKCEC. The limited-edition collections – “Wings” and “Everlasting” – were inspired by the car’s logo, the “Bentley Wings.” The handcrafted pieces are made of gold and platinum with diamonds, September 18 – 22;

* Jewellery Design Competition for Hong Kong Secondary School Students Award –Winning Piece Exhibition organized by the Gem & Jewellery Alumni Association, September 18 – 22;

* JNA Conference, “From Inspiration to Innovation – the Designer’s Journey to Creativity organized by Informa Markets, September 19;

* Gubelin Gem Lab Seminar organized by Gubelin Gem Lab, September 20;

* Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Jewellery Parade & Gala Dinner organized by Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Jewellery Co.,  September 20;

* GAHK 40th Anniversary Seminar organized by The Gemmological Association of Hing Kong, Gem-A and Informa Markets, September 20;

* The 68th Paspaley Pearl Auction organized by the Australian Pearl Centre, September 21 – 23.

September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Will Be Held As Usual

The registration area at the 2018 September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Will Hong Kong protests keep the crowds away this year

Despite the ongoing protests in Hong Kong, officials representing Informa Markets, the owner and organizer of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, say the show will be held during its usual dates and times, September 16 – 22. 

Considered one of the largest jewelry fair’s in the world, the event is held in two venues with staggered dates: September 16 - 20 at the AsiaWorld-Expo for jewelry making materials and machinery and September 18 - 22 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre for finished jewelry.

In a statement, David Bondi, Informa Markets senior VO – Asia, said the company is adopting a series of contingency measures that he says will “ensure a seamless flow of events throughout the show.”

“Our priority is to deliver the best September Fair ever, and the 2019 edition of the world’s best jewelry marketplace is shaping up to be a record-breaking one in terms of top-class exhibitors, collection launches and rich programming,” Bondi said.

Bondi claims that as of August 9, “99 percent of the September Fair’s more than 3,700 exhibitors from around the globe have confirmed their participation.” This includes the few exhibitors I spoke with. 

However, according to a recent report, three trade associations (The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, Antwerp World Diamond Centre and Israel Diamond Institute) have asked Informa Markets to delay the show until the situation stabilizes.

Bondi also said that visitor pre-registration is “moving forward,” with visitor promotion campaigns in full swing. “We anticipate minimal impact on visitor turnout,” he said. “It remains to be seen how small that impact would be given today’s complex situation.” 

The protests began as peaceful demonstrations in March in opposition over plans that would have allowed extradition from Hong Kong to mainland China. The protests escalated to the point where the bill was declared to be “suspended” but that didn’t stop the protesters, who said they want the proposal withdrawn. The demands of the protesters have also expanded. The response by the Hong Kong police force began turning violent in early June. Vigilante groups, seemingly loyal to the government, also attacked protesters. In response, the protesters turned to sporadic violence. Bondi noted that the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, a smaller version of the September fair, was held at the Hong Kong convention center June 20 - 23 and it “went off without a hitch.”

Despite the uncertainty, Bondi insists that the fair is too large and important not to be held.  

“The September Fair is the last international fair – and on a scale never seen before – on the jewelry trade show calendar,” he said. “We cannot allow recent incidents to cast a pall over the most eagerly awaited jewelry sourcing event of the year. Our task is to ensure that this show will be celebrated as it deserves to be celebrated, and that our exhibitors and buyers will get the most out of their September Fair experience.”

June Hong Kong Jewelry Fair Opens to Big Crowds

Buyers crowd one of the registration areas at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

The June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair opened its doors Thursday and buyers have come in large numbers to view products and services from more than 1,900 exhibitors from 40 countries and regions of the world. 

Looking at the crowds of people at several registration desks it hard to believe that this is the smaller of the two trade fairs in Hong Kong owned and operated by London-based Informa Markets, a tradeshow and publications company that acquired UBM Asia in 2018.  But it is. The main difference is that this show is held in one facility while the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair is so large that it is held at two locations.

Occupying 70,000 square meters of exhibition space at the Hong Kong Convention & Exposition Centre, the fair is divided into 21 theme and 18 group pavilions for easier navigation. New this year are two thematic zones – Technology and Lab-Grown Diamonds – and the Australia Pavilion under the national and group pavilions category.

“The June fair occupies a unique position in the industry,” says Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets. “It literally brings the jewellery world under one roof, and it is perfectly timed for wholesalers, retailers and distributors who are building up their seasonal essentials.” 

Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets, added, “This show brings together the jewelry and gemstone industry in its entire breadth and depth, making it the ideal sourcing destination for wholesalers, retailers and distributors.” 

This includes jewelry technology and equipment providers, diamond and gemstone dealers, a complete assortment of fine jewelry and collectible high jewelry.

The June Fair’s signature programming will include three seminars organised by the Colombian Association of Emerald Exporters, The Gemmological Association of Hong Kong and the Japan Pearl Promotion Society, which will highlight developments in the colored gemstone and pearl sectors.

Invitation-only events are being held on the fair’s sidelines, including a Media Gathering, where the winners of the JNA Jewellery Design Competition 2018/19 were announced and the JNA Awards revealed this year’s finalists across 11 categories.

This is the 32nd year for the June fair and it has become an important part of the international annual tradeshow calendar. The four-day event will run till June 23. 

Spirits Remained High At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair despite Destruction Caused By Super Typhoon Mangkhut

It’s impossible to discuss the 2018 September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair without mentioning Super Typhoon Mangkhut. It landed in Hong Kong on September 16, as a Signal No. 10, the highest level of tropical cyclone warning signals in Hong Kong for 10 hours. It was one of the strongest storms in the city’s history and the strongest storm in the world this year. 

Storm damage just outside the Hong Kong convention
center

It tore through high rises, toppled construction equipment and destroyed some less fortified buildings. It toppled trees, stopped all public transportation and caused severe flooding along coastal areas. Some of the photos and videos being distributed among those of us stranded in hotels or at home were quite shocking. 

The storm understandably caused the full-day closure of the Hong Kong fair at both the AsiaWorld-Expo by the airport, for the last day of the materials portion of the fair, and at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre in the center of the city, during the third day of the finished jewelry portion of the show. If that’s not enough the storm forced the rescheduling of the 2018 JNA Awards gala dinner, which was held the following night. 

     One of the walkways to the convention center

Miraculously the convention center showed no sign of damage, despite being on the water’s edge. Despite the fewer people, everything appeared normal at the show, which is testament to the focus and resiliency and focus of the staff at UBM Asia, which owns and operates the fair, the convention center staff and the residents of Hong Kong. 

Between the one day closure and buyers leaving before the storm arrived, there was definitely a loss of business but for the most part everyone was happy. I spoke with several gem dealers at the JNA Awards gala dinner and all were satisfied with the business they did during the days the show was open. 

     One of many damaged buildings in the city

Earlier in the day, there were still a good number of buyers walking the halls of the Hong Kong convention center. I spoke with several exhibitors in the Fine Designer Pavilion and they were in good spirits sharing typhoon stories while showing their jewels to whatever buyers remained. Like the gem dealers, they said business was disrupted for the remainder of the fair but prior to the storm, sales were strong. 

Many of the dealers in this area, which specializes in new and second-market high jewelry, have been exhibiting at the September Hong Kong fair for years. I asked one of the veteran dealers why he continues to attend. He simply replied: “I make money.” 

2018 JNA Awards Recognizes Jewelry Industry Leaders

The seventh annual JNA Awards, one of the most prestigious award programs in the international jewelry and gemstone industry, was a success under extremely stressful circumstances. The glittering gala event, which honored industry forerunners and groundbreakers, was held during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Hong Kong on September 17.

The winners, judges, organizers and sponsors of the 2018 JNA Awards

Super Typhoon Mangkhut came crashing into Hong Kong September 16 causing the event to be held the following day. You can read more about the herculean effort it took to stage the event by following this link. However, this story is about the winners and awards ceremony.

A total of 44 honorees or finalists across 12 award categories that made exceptional contributions to the industry were acknowledged at the awards ceremony. Out of the 44 finalists, 15 recipients were announced in a ceremony witnessed by prominent industry leaders and influencers.

Organized by UBM Asia, the JNA Awards is dedicated to the promotion and enhancement of excellence, leadership, innovation and best business practices in the jewelry and gemstone community.

Prida Tiasuwan, Chairman of Pranda Jewelry Public Co Ltd – PRANDA Group, received the Lifetime Achievement Award, the highest accolade conferred by the JNA Awards. Prida is well-known for his tireless effort in bringing Thailand-made jewelry to the forefront of the global market. His bold vision and revolutionary ideas not only contributed to the success of PRANDA Group, but also benefited the jewelry industry as a whole.

The 15 Award Recipients across 12 categories are as follows:

1. Brand of the Year – Retail
Luk Fook Holdings (International) Limited – Hong Kong

2. eSupplier of the Year
Kiran Gems Private Limited – India

3. Industry Innovation of the Year

3a. Industry Innovation of the Year – Business Model
Shenzhen MOVER Jewellery Co Ltd – China

3b. Industry Innovation of the Year – Diamond Testing Technology
IIDGR (UK) Ltd – United Kingdom

3c. Industry Innovation of the Year – Manufacturing Process
PANDORA Production Co Ltd - Thailand

4. Manufacturer of the Year – Cutting & Polishing
Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd – Hong Kong

5. Manufacturer of the Year – Jewellery
Kuwayama Corporation – Japan

6. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – ASEAN, Japan & Korea
Poh Kong Jewellers – Malaysia

7. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – Greater China
Shenzhen Sunfeel Jewelry Co Ltd – China

8. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – India
KGK Diajewels Private Limited – India

9. Retailer of the Year (500 outlets and below)
PT Central Mega Kencana – Indonesia

10.  Retailer of the Year (501 outlets and above)
HIERSUN - China

11.  Sustainability Initiative of the Year
Jewelmer (KARAMAR CORPORATION) – Philippines

12.  Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 and below)
XU Xiao, Zbird / Shanghai Wisdom Jewelry Trading Co Ltd – China
Zulu GHEVRIYA, Prism Group – Hong Kong

“Our industry is facing some challenging times, but we should not be discouraged. Instead, this is the time to be innovative. This is the time to seek business opportunities with a different light and angle, and form alliances and collaborations to create win-win situations,” said Letitia Chow, Chairperson of the JNA Awards, Founder of JNA, and Director of Business Development – Jewellery Group at UBM Asia. “Our Honoree companies and individuals embrace this mindset to drive their businesses forward.”

Headline Partners for the JNA Awards were Chow Tai Fook, Shanghai Diamond Exchange and Bahrain Institute for Pearls and Gemstones.

Honored Partners were KGK Group, Guangdong Gems & Jade Exchange and Guangdong Land Holdings Limited.

Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Excelled

With all the talk of the September Hong Kong Jewelry & Gem Fair, there was another show quietly being held at the AsiaWorld-Expo, sharing space with the materials portion of the better known September Hong Kong fair. 

Buyers entering Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – September

Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – September (9FJ), one of the industry’s most inspiring and exciting events, was held September 12 – 15, which means the fair ended one day before Super Typhoon Mangkhut touched down on Hong Kong. 

The four-day fair hosted about 350 exhibitors and drew more than 9,000 local and overseas buyers. It occupied Hall 2 and the Concourse of AWE, and as an annual show, it has gained traction as a hub of opportunity for fashion jewelry and accessories manufacturers, wholesalers, importers, retailers, designers and buyers.

The fair specializes in low-cost design-oriented jewelry made with non-precious materials. Many of the larger pieces would be called costume jewelry in the U.S., but there were also more petite designs. Since design is such a focus of the show, no exhibitors would allow me to take photographs of their pieces since stealing designs is a concern. The fair also materials used to make fashion-oriented jewelry.

The Designer Atelier, a special zone featured a select group of independent designers from Hong Kong, debuted at this year’s fair. Another new attraction was the Fashion Accessories zone, which provided the latest creations of manufacturers and designers who are bringing their distinctive elements to the show, from beaded clutches and purses to colorful shawls and stoles.

A highlight of the show was the Stainless Steel Jewellery Pavilion, where exhibitors presented an array of stainless steel jewelry designed to complete a fashion-forward, urban-themed look. Versatile and affordable, stainless steel jewelry remains one of the most popular goods at this fair. 

Five group pavilions represented mainland China, India, Korea, the Philippines and the Taiwan region were also among the show’s top draws.

A tradition of the annual fair was the Editor’s Choice section, which provided a peak at the design trends for Spring/Summer. This year, the show turned the spotlight on three of the hottest materials that will be prevalent in the upcoming seasons: Beads, metals and semi-precious stones.

2018 JNA Awards: Letitia Chow’s Influence And Leadership Saves the Day

Over the years whenever I tell people I was attending the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, the response was almost always the same. “Say hello to Letitia for me.”

2018 JNA Awards ceremony. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Letitia in question is Letitia Chow, director of Business Development, Jewellery Group of UBM Asia. She also holds the title of Jewellery Group director, Publishing Group at UBM Asia. 

A brief overview of her career goes like this: In 1983 Chow founded Jewellery News Asia magazine in partnership with veteran journalist, publisher and public relations consultant, Peter Brindisi. It grew to become the largest and most influential jewelry industry magazine in Asia. The magazine was purchased by UBM Asia and thus started her rise in the corporate structure of the trade fair company. 

Letitia Chow

In the jewelry industry, particularly in Asia, the large jewelry, diamond and colored gem manufacturers, the largest mining companies and the largest jewelry retailers share much of the power. While Chow isn’t the most powerful presence, her influence ranges from the largest companies to those who work on the front lines. All of this influence was needed at this year’s JNA Awards ceremony, another jewelry industry endeavor founded by Chow. 

On September 16, Super Typhoon Mangkhut barreled through Hong Kong. The Hong Kong Observatory issued the Hurricane Signal No. 10, which is the highest level of tropical cyclone warning signals in Hong Kong, for 10 hours, making it a storm of historic proportions. It caused the postponement of the JNA Awards to the following day. When I saw pictures and video of the damage to the Intercontinental Hong Kong hotel, where the event is held, I thought the awards show would surely be cancelled. 

The Intercontinental Hong Kong hotel during Super Typhoon Mangkhut in a photo passed around social media.

The lobby of the Intercontinental Hong Kong the following night for the JNA Awards.

I was wrong and it was all because of Chow, her dedicated staff and the staff at the Intercontinental Hong Kong. 

Not only were they battling a super typhoon and the damage it did to the hotel, but more than half of the invited guests had left prior to the storm, leaving the possibility of a half-filled venue. First, the hotel lobby and the large meeting room where the gala dinner was held showed no signs of damage. Second, the call went out and the industry responded as people came streaming into the main hall moments before the program started. The program itself went off without a hitch. 

Over the years Chow always had a calm almost Zen-like demeanor despite the chaos that naturally ensues during a live trade fair and awards program. However, this year, during her opening remarks, her voice broke at least twice when she thanked her staff and those who came to the event in the last minute. 

The main reason the people came, the staff did the work and show went on is the result of the Chow’s leadership and the good will she accumulated over the years. 

Jewelry Industry Officials Discuss Change At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

As the expression goes, change is the only constant in life and the jewelry industry is going through monumental change. Some of it even hits close to home. This was the dominant theme at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair press conference.

The first change is UBM Asia, the largest operator of jewelry trade fairs in the world, has merged with Informa, a London-based company that bills itself as an international business-to-business information services group. 

The second change is that Wolfram Diener, senior VP of UBM Asia and a big presence at the Hong Kong jewelry fairs, will be leaving. After 22 years of living in Hong Kong and China, the German native has accepted a new job as managing director of Messe Düsseldorf. 

Diener, 57, led his last press conference at the Hong Kong jewelry fair calling it his “final curtain” and introducing his replacement, his close friend, David Bondi, who was in attendance. 

In the rest of his presentation he noted that Thailand, with 400 exhibitors of finished jewels, gemstones and supplies, is the largest contingent at the fair, outside of exhibitors from Hong Kong and China. He added there is strong participation from Japan and an increase in exhibitors from Turkey.

Eight leaders of trade associations from Hong Kong and China gave a review of business in the first nine months of the year and what they expect by the end of 2018. Most of the speakers reported strong turnover but also expressed concern due to U.S. and China trade tensions and a strengthening U.S. dollar. 

Lawrence Ma, founding president of the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, said diamond sales increased by 8.7 percent for the first half of the year. However, he added, that he is “cautiously optimistic when it comes to business at the September Hong Kong jewelry fair. “I expect a good show but not necessarily a great show.”

Ken Lo, chairman of the Hong Kong Jewellery and Jade Manufacturers Association, said his organization saw double digit sales gains for the first half of the year but agreed with Ma that events outside their influence could dampen sales for the rest of the year. “I’m very cautious at the year’s end about what’s going to happen,” he said. 

Most of the other speakers talked about the challenges being posed by Millennial and Generation Y consumers and how they could disrupt jewelry distribution channels in China. 

The press conference itself, an annual event, underwent some change as well. In the past all of the officials sat in front and addressed the media sitting in chairs. This year they added tables and provided lunch for those in attendance. 

Change comes in many forms.

The September Hong Kong Fair Is Now All About the Jewelry

The finished jewelry section of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (HKCEC) opened Friday with the ceremonial dragon dance offering good luck to all exhibitors and buyers. 

The fair officially opened two days earlier at the AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) convention center near the Hong Kong international airport with companies that specialize in diamonds, gems, pearls and other jewelry making materials. However, the jewelry portion of the fair, which displays products ranging from the most basic to the most exclusive, marks the true start of the annual event. 

It is one of the world’s largest jewelry and gem fairs, if not the largest, and with the continued economic growth in China and other Asian markets, it is one of the most important events on the jewelry industry calendar. UBM Asia, which owns and operates the trade show, said in terms of exhibitors, 3,700, it is the largest in the fair’s history. Whether that results in more buyers attending will be known in the next few days. 

It is also the most international of all jewelry shows. At any given moment somewhere on the 135,000 square meters of exhibit space you will see Japanese pearl jewelry exhibitors doing business with retailers from Dubai, Chinese jewelry manufacturers selling to South American distributors and Polish amber jewelers selling to the Chinese market. In addition, it’s a true business show. There are few new product launches or big corporate events. All of the action is done at the booths.

The day at HKCEC began with a large number of people in registration lines and even larger numbers of buyers waiting in long lines for the doors to fair to open. A large crowd also gathered around the dragon dance performers just as the doors opened to the fair. 

While all of the trading is going on, Super Typhoon Mangkhut is barreling towards Hong Kong, described as a Signal 9 storm, among the strongest on the 10-plus point scale. If it does hit Hong Kong and remains a Category 9, the show will at least temporarily close Sunday. 

The materials portion of the show at the AWE will end Sunday and the finished jewelry at the HKCEC will run till Tuesday.

Pearls, Pearls and More Pearls At September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

Hall 1 in the vast AsiaWorld-Expo is separate from the other halls. However, buyers had no trouble finding it during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. 

That's because inside there are pearls as far as the eye can see. They come in every size and every shape imaginable. From blinding white pearls to Tahitians with a lustrous glow to pearls in every color imaginable. 

In addition, this section of the fair showcased coral and other fruits of the sea. All totaled there are approximately 650 suppliers of loose pearls and finished pearl jewelry, including dealers from Australia, China, French Polynesia, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Japan, Myanmar, U.K. and the U.S, according to UBM Asia, which hosts the show.

Buyers responded well, crowding the aisles the first two days of the trade fair and pressing up against exhibition booths exhibition booths eyeing the loose pearls as close possible to determine quality. 

“The September Fair is unparalleled in terms of the breadth, depth and quality of its pearl exhibits,” says Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at UBM Asia. “If you’re looking for top-quality Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian and freshwater pearls – from rare single gems, matched pairs and strands to exclusive pearl suites and jewelry collections in fresh and modern designs – you will find them all at the show.”

The Japan Pearl Pavilion, one of the busiest and vibrant sections on the AWE show floor, features 108 loose pearl dealers, says Yoshihiro Shimizu, chairman of the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association. 

"We will have a special display of gem-quality pearls, including exceptionally rare strands of Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearls" Shimizu said. It’s going to be a very busy and exciting show for Japan’s top pearl specialists and hopefully, it’ll be an extremely informative, enriching and productive one for trade show visitors, too.”

Tahitian pearls and China pearls are also well represented at the fair.

"In terms of demand, high-quality round Tahitian pearls are currently the hottest items in the market, said Ida Wong, chairman of the Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong. "TPAHK’s strategic promotion of other fancy shapes – drop, circled, button, oval, baroque and keshi, among others – highlighting asymmetric perfection is anticipated to help boost the demand for other pearl shapes." 

Paraiba, Emeralds, Rubies, Opals Among The Highlights Of Colored Gems Pavilion at the September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

A suite of Paraiba from Erica Courtney. Photo: Anthony DeMarco

The largest September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair in the show’s 36-year history has begun and one of the biggest draws at AsiaWorld-Expo is colored gemstones.

It is one of the world's largest collections of colored gems under one roof anywhere in the world and the number and variety of gems available is unmatched. 

An Opal originally from Cartier being offered by Erica Courtney. Photo: Anthony DeMarco

The Courtney Collection, an Erica Courtney company, is giving professional buyers a glimpse of its African Paraiba tourmaline suites at the September Fair.

“We are exhibiting beautiful gemstones of exceptionally large sizes from a private collection, showing large single gems as well as curated suites, including many extraordinary specimens of African paraiba tourmaline,” a spokesperson for the US-based company said. “We wish to reach gemstone collectors and gemstone vendors who appreciate exceptionally large gemstones.”

Zambian emeralds from Gemfields. Photo: Anthony DeMarco

An award-winning jewelry designer, Erica Courtney is known for her use of fine gemstones in her "Drop Dead Gorgeous" jewelry collection. Her love of extraordinary gemstones led her to partner with a private collector who has amassed a collection of large gems, which will be presented at the September Fair.

The paraiba set is certainly one of the highlights in the main gemstone pavilion, The sea-blue gems are being sold as a set with a full range of size and shape that would make an exceptional suite of jewels.

Not to be outdone, in the neighboring "Fine Gem Pavilion," Paul Wild has on display special paraibas from Africa and Brazil, the origin of paraibas, and one of the rarest gems, since all of the original material has been mined.

The mining and marketing company, Gemfields, was showcasing a number of their Zambian emeralds and Mozambique rubies in a stand by one of the entrances.

In addition, number of opal dealers were displaying their unique gems with lustrous colors and sparkling patterns. Opals are one of the least understood of all gemstones. They are classified as “phenomenal gems,” a group of gemstones that have various optical properties, such as gems that produce a “star” or “cat’s eye” effect. For opals it’s the play of color that exhibits an iridescent effect, appearing to gradually change color as the angle of view or the angle of illumination changes.

A Busy Beginning for the Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair is off the good start, according to nearly everyone I spoke with Thursday.

Considered to be the world’s largest jewelry trade fair, the show opened Wednesday for gems, diamonds, pearls and other jewelry making materials at the AsiaWorld-Expo. The fair’s second location will open Friday for finished jewelry, from the most basic to the most luxurious, at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre.

The fair is also being held as Super Typhoon Mangkhut is bearing down on the city. It’s too early to tell whether Hong Kong will take a direct hit but so far experts say that the storm could be the equivalent of a Category 5 hurricane.

But for now it’s all business at the AsiaWorld Expo where the aisles and exhibiting booths are bustling.

“It was very busy yesterday and it remains busy today,” said Gary Roskin, executive director of the International Colored Gemstone Association.  

This statement was echoed among the colored gem and diamond dealers I spoke with. Most spoke on the condition of anonymity. “I’m very happy so far,” said an opal dealer. Yesterday, in particular was very busy.”

On Thursday, as the day wore on more buyers came streaming into the halls. From diamonds to colored gems to pearls booths were jammed with buyers.

At Erica Courtney’s booth, one representative said there’s been a lot of interest the first two days.

The fair’s overwhelmingly good feeling is coming amid a report by the De Beers Group stating that diamond jewelry demand reached a new record high of $82 billion, led by Millennial consumers, which accounted for two-thirds of global diamond jewelry sales in 2017.

The De Beers Diamond Insight Report also notes that Millennials, those people currently aged 21 to 39, represent 29 percent of the world’s population and are the current largest group of diamond consumers. They accounted for almost 60 percent of diamond jewelry demand in the US in 2017 and nearly 80 per cent in China.

Collectors See Value In Richard Mille Watches At Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Richard Mille RM008

The appeal of contemporary independent watchmaker, Richard Mille, continues to grow. Demand has now extended to the auction market, where his rare, expensive and technically advanced timepieces are earning a following among collectors. 

All four Richard Mille watches (including a women’s watch) on offer sold at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Important Watch Sale with two of them among the top five lots. It was one of the main stories at April 5 auction where collectors were attracted to a variety of established and contemporary brands. 

“Collectors’ interest has become increasingly diverse, with the top ten lots comprising not only traditionally sought-after brands, but also complex models and those by independent watchmakers,” said Jessie Kang, Sotheby’s head of Watches, Asia. “Unique designs and rare pieces remain popular, with all four Richard Mille watches on offer sold. Bidding from 33 countries was vibrant, with many new buyers in the sale room and a number of Sotheby’s existing clients exploring the field of watch collecting for the first time.”

The top lot wasn’t a watch but a clock and art object. The Cartier “Flamingo and Lotus Automaton Clock” sold for $537,924, above estimate. It features a bejeweled flamingo and lotus set on an 18k yellow gold rectangular base set with onyx and gray mottled hardstone. One of four large round lapis lazuli buttons activates the lotus automaton. The top of the base is in mother-of-pearl with a large yellow diamond and diamond-set lotus. Its ten petals open to reveal the dial, all on nephrite leaves. The large flamingo standing on one leg is covered with brilliant-cut diamonds. Its plumage set with square-cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds, with the beak made of pink hardstone and onyx. Sapphire eyes are the final touch. 

The top lot among watches was the Richard Mille RM008, a pink gold tourbillon split seconds chronograph (top photo) that sold for $383,053. This highly complicated watch is powered by the manually wound caliber RM-008/1 with a one-minute tourbillon carriage visible at 6 o'clock with compensation balance, semi-skeletonized matte charcoal dial, two subdials for constant seconds and 30-minute register, outer scale calibrated for tachymeter, fan-form power reserve indicator at 11 o'clock position and torque indicator at 1 o'clock. It’s all housed in an 18k pink gold tonneau-shaped case.

The third lot of the sale fell to one of the most popular brands on the auction market, Patek Philippe, with a pink gold minute repeater perpetual calendar, reference 5013, which sold for $352,611, within its estimate. 

A Jaeger-LeCoultre white gold Spherotourbillon watch with date, flyback seconds and power reserve indicator, was the fourth highest seller, fetching $281,509. 

Rounding out the top five was the Richard Mille RM 015 “Tourbillon Perini Navi.” It’s inspired by the sailing vessels of the yacht builders Perini Navi of Viareggio. The white gold tonneau-shaped semi-skeleton Tourbillon timepiece fetched an above-estimate, $273,466.

The sale at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre took in more than $7.4 million, with 75.2% sold by lot and 84.8% sold by value. A total of 303 lots were on offer.

“We are pleased with the solid results and the healthy sell-through rate of the sale,” Kang said. 

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Signed Jewels That Sparkle At Sotheby’s Hong Kong Sale

Unique pair of ruby and diamond bangles by Bhagat and a diamond, sapphire and emerald ‘Panthère’ Ring by Cartier. All photos courtesy of Sotheby's

Among the approximate 196 lots at Sotheby’s Hong Kong “Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale” are an Art Deco mystery clock by Cartier, a pair of ruby and diamond bangles by famed Indian designer, Bhagat, and a gem and diamond necklace by Mauboussin. 

You may have also heard about a particular 59.60-carat pink diamond known as the “Pink Star.” 

While the focus will be deservedly on the Pink Star, there are many other jewels, gems and art objects that will be offered at the April 4 sale at the at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Among the highlights are: 

Art Deco Gem Set and Diamond Mystery Clock, ‘Le Ciel’ by Cartier, 1928
This collection of clocks produced by Cartier between 1922 and 1931 incorporated antique Chinese jade carvings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Le Ciel is one of only thirteen clocks from the collection still known to exist, according to the auction house. The dial is embellished with bejeweled shooting stars and planets on a night sky. The dial is supported by two antique jade carps. Its estimate is $1.36 million - $1.81 million.

Important Jadeite and Diamond Demi-Parure
Being a Hong Kong sale, jadeite will always play starring role. The necklace in this set consists of seven highly translucent oval jadeite cabochons of brilliant emerald green color, embellished with circular-cut diamonds. It comes with a matching set of jadeite cabochon earrings. Its estimate is $2.58 million $3.87 million.

Gem Set and Diamond Pendent Necklace by Mauboussin
This colorful necklace by the Parisian jeweler features circular- and single-cut diamonds, embellished with sapphires, rubies and emeralds, accented by black enamel. The diamonds weigh approximately 18 carats. Its estimate is $765,000 - $970,000.

Fine Diamond Bracelet by Harry Winston
Designed as six rows of pear-shaped diamonds decorated with circular-cut diamonds, the platinum necklace has a total diamond weight of approximately 124.06 carats. Its estimate is $258,000 - $323,000.

Unique Pair of Ruby and Diamond Bangles by Bhagat
Sotheby’s refers to the Indian jewelry brand as “one of the greatest living jewelers,” with works that represent a fusion of artistry and craftsmanship that draws inspiration from classic Indian themes. Each bangle is set with 38 oval rubies (60 carats), to the edge of floral motifs embellished with circular-cut diamonds (30 carats). Its estimate is $252,000 - $361,000.

Diamond, Sapphire and Emerald ‘Panthère’ Ring by Cartier
This panther ring is pavé-set with circular-cut diamonds weighing approximately 4.50 carats, embellished with sapphire spots, emerald eyes and an onyx nose, mounted in platinum. Its estimate is $194,000 - 258,000. 

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