Pearls Once Again A Major Draw at the September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

Pearls of virtually every type, quality and price point imaginable is once again an important part of the the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. The world’s largest jewelry trade show includes a dedicated area filled with loose pearl suppliers who are presenting pearl parcels, pairs, strands and layouts at the AsiaWorld-Expo.

In addition, a number of design houses will be showcasing high and fine jewels using pearls at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, when this portion of fair opens Wednesday (but that’s another story).

The pearl pavilion at AWE is one of the largest spaces dedicated to a single product category at the fair. Loose pearl dealers from all over the world are exhibiting including suppliers and from Australia, China, France, French Polynesia, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Japan, Myanmar, Singapore, the UK and the US.

“Pearls are universally loved for their classic simplicity and timeless beauty,” said Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets. “They personify refined elegance and are impressively versatile at the same time.”

According to the Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong (TPAHK) round 8mm to 10mm pearls are the hottest items under the Tahitian pearl category in the first half of the year.

“However, with the continued efforts of the association and by joining hands with leading jewelry design competition organizers in the promotion of asymmetrical shapes – drop, oval, circle and baroque pearls among others – we anticipate pearls in fancy shapes to further grow in popularity,” the association said in a statement.

Despite global economic uncertainties, the Tahitian pearl auction held in July netted encouraging results, according to TPAHK. “Top-quality pearls were in great demand but supply was inadequate. There were fewer commercial-grade pearls displayed at the auction. Thus, the average price increased by almost 48 percent when compared with the auction results in March of this year,” according to the association. “Total sales were approximately 35 percent higher than anticipated. Hong Kong and Japan continued to be the top buyers, accounting for 75 percent of sales.”

TPAHK members are presenting commercial- and high-quality pearls sourced from the recent auction at the September Fair. “The timing is ideal for the coming peak selling season,” the association noted.

The portion of the fair that includes loose pearls and other jewelry making materials at the AWE will run till September 20; while the finished portion of the jewelry fair opens at the HKCEC Wednesday and runs till September 22.

U.S.-China Trade War is the Talk of the June Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

Hong Kong industry leaders talk about the issues at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

In September the Hong Kong Jewelry & Gem Fair was closed for a day for the first time in its long history by a typhoon. For the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, two other storms are brewing and both are man-made. The first is the threat by President Donald Trump to slap a 25% tariff on all goods exported from China to the U.S. The second is perhaps the largest protests in the history of Hong Kong, which may continue. 

During the opening day press conference, leaders of the trade organizations from Hong Kong spent a great deal of time talking about the first issue while not mentioning the second at all. 

Lawrence Ma, president of the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, says U.S.-China trade tensions are putting pressure on the world economy. 

“Trade uncertainty is what we don’t like,” he said Thursday. “If they agree to something everything would change in a moment. But I think we have to live with this uncertainty for the next few months.” 

Sze Ho Yin, president of the Hong Pearl Association said the increased infrastructure improvements between Hong Kong and China have made it easy for Hong Kong wholesalers and retailers to do business with those from the mainland. 

“About 40% of our buyers are from Mainland China because it is very convenient for buyers from China to come to Hong Kong,” he said. “They are pretty much supporting the jewelry industry (in Hong Kong). It’s very convenient to sell directly to China. Because of this the trade war between the U.S. and China hasn’t had a dramatic effect.” 

Ken Lo, chairman of the Hong Kong Jade & Jewellery Manufacturers, says Hong Kong’s strength as a trading center will mitigate much of the detrimental impact of a trade war. 

“Hong Kong is the number one city in the world in terms of ease when it comes to setting up a business,” he said. “And it has an advantage because of its proximity to China and its ease of trade between the two markets. I think because of this Hong Kong will remain a very important trading center for the entire world.”

The leaders also talked about issues important for the jewelry and gem industry in Hong Kong. For example, Ma spoke about some of the myriad of issues the diamond industry is facing. They include the difficulty of financing for much of the diamond trade, the effect of lab-grown diamonds and the steady decline of sales among Hong Kong retailers. 

He said diamond imports in Hong Kong are down 2.8% for the first three months of the year compared to last year. Meanwhile, exports are up by 9.1% for the same period. On the retail level, there are more Chinese tourists visiting Hong Kong but they are spending less, he said. 

“The good news is that there are more Chinese coming,” he said. “The bad news is spending has come down significantly. Overall, it’s a good trend.”

Lo spent much of his presentation talking about how technology is changing the jewelry industry. The items he covered included:

* Lab-grown diamonds and how it has taken up some jewelry industry sales.

* CAD-CAM technology is speeding up the process from design to finished jewels and is a catalyst when in terms of allowing retail customers the ability to design their own jewels.

* The decline of distributors because manufacturers are using the Internet and social media to go directly to retailers and consumers.  

Yin said the Hong Kong pearl industry is working with China to develop a freshwater pearl industry to replace the Akoya pearl. 

Luxury Jewels Were In Abundance at the September Hong Kong Fair

A buyer inspects a diamond paved necklace from Studio Reves. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Despite much of the focus being placed on large manufacturers and retailers, luxury jewels are a significant part of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Most of the contemporary luxury jewelers and manufacturers (outside of Hong Kong and China manufacturers who have their own pavilions) are located next to each other in the Fine Design Pavilion and the International Premiere Pavilion.

Located at the Grand Hall of the Hong Kong Convention & Exposition Centre, the Fine Design Pavilion showcases high jewelry from more than 70 internationally known jewelers and dealers of estate jewels and watches. The high-ceiling and luxurious environment of the Grand Hall is an appropriate setting for these designers who feature rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls in their limited-edition creations. 

A conch pearl necklace by Saboo. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Jewelry brand, Saboo, is one of the regular exhibitors in this pavilion. Chand Bihari Saboo had some time to talk since several appointments were cancelled due to buyers trying to leave Hong Kong before Super Typhoon Mangkhut arrived. The Hong Kong-based company specializes in one-of-a-kind and limited edition jewels, made with exceptional diamond and colored gems. Many items are sold to Middle East royalty. The Hong Kong-based company started as a gem manufacturer so it is skilled at choosing stones. 

Saboo showed me a necklace and ring featuring conch pearls of different sizes and colors, and a flexible bracelet paved in rubies and diamonds. 

A ruby and diamond bracelet by Saboo. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Despite the impending doom that the typhoon was going to bring there were still eager buyers. In the International Premier Pavilion, which houses about 60 luxury jewelry manufacturing brands, a salesperson at Studio Reves, a Mumbai based diamond jewelry manufacturer and DTC sightholder, was showing a large, well-constructed, flexible necklace paved with rose-cut diamonds. 

As we were talking a woman walked up and asked its cost, felt it, tried it on and soon they began negotiating a sale. 

Pearls, Pearls and More Pearls At September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

Hall 1 in the vast AsiaWorld-Expo is separate from the other halls. However, buyers had no trouble finding it during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. 

That's because inside there are pearls as far as the eye can see. They come in every size and every shape imaginable. From blinding white pearls to Tahitians with a lustrous glow to pearls in every color imaginable. 

In addition, this section of the fair showcased coral and other fruits of the sea. All totaled there are approximately 650 suppliers of loose pearls and finished pearl jewelry, including dealers from Australia, China, French Polynesia, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Japan, Myanmar, U.K. and the U.S, according to UBM Asia, which hosts the show.

Buyers responded well, crowding the aisles the first two days of the trade fair and pressing up against exhibition booths exhibition booths eyeing the loose pearls as close possible to determine quality. 

“The September Fair is unparalleled in terms of the breadth, depth and quality of its pearl exhibits,” says Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at UBM Asia. “If you’re looking for top-quality Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian and freshwater pearls – from rare single gems, matched pairs and strands to exclusive pearl suites and jewelry collections in fresh and modern designs – you will find them all at the show.”

The Japan Pearl Pavilion, one of the busiest and vibrant sections on the AWE show floor, features 108 loose pearl dealers, says Yoshihiro Shimizu, chairman of the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association. 

"We will have a special display of gem-quality pearls, including exceptionally rare strands of Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearls" Shimizu said. It’s going to be a very busy and exciting show for Japan’s top pearl specialists and hopefully, it’ll be an extremely informative, enriching and productive one for trade show visitors, too.”

Tahitian pearls and China pearls are also well represented at the fair.

"In terms of demand, high-quality round Tahitian pearls are currently the hottest items in the market, said Ida Wong, chairman of the Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong. "TPAHK’s strategic promotion of other fancy shapes – drop, circled, button, oval, baroque and keshi, among others – highlighting asymmetric perfection is anticipated to help boost the demand for other pearl shapes." 

The Top Jewels and Designers At The 2017 Couture Show

If I could I would spend four days of my time in Las Vegas during jewelry week at The Couture Show. It’s become the best show in terms of the quality of pieces and the most enjoyable in terms of the overall comfortable, informal yet luxurious environment. This year I had two days and it just wasn’t enough time to see all of the quality designers. So this list of 26 jewels is among the best I saw at the show but there were certainly much more to see.

New York-based designer, Coomi, presented an exceptional offering of jewels ranging from traditional high jewelry pieces to a special collection based on an historic piece of architecture to items made with objects from antiquity. In many ways it was typical of what Coomi produces each year at Couture but this year the artistry and creativity was prolific. The items on display included a collection of beautiful, sea-blue paraiba tourmalines set in 20k white gold and paired with diamonds.

An extremely rare and very large natural saltwater pearl from the Melo Melo sea snail. The 23.8 x 23.3 x 23.1 mm, “non-nacreous pearl” is set in an 18k rose gold and diamond pavé bezel enclosure. It is valued at well over $700,000, says the pearl house, Assael, which presented this and other sea treasures at its booth.

The David Webb brand made its first appearance at Couture, featuring new and period pieces that combine materials, colors and themes.

The Atoli (atolls) pendant necklace Antonini. An 18k yellow gold oval with delicate curves surrounds a circle of diamond pavé over rough textured white gold that enhances the sparkle of the diamonds.

Spectacular blue opals and azurite (rarely used in jewelry) mounted on gold and surrounded by assorted gems is the latest collection from the dreamlike world of Lydia Courteille.

To celebrate its 50th Anniversary in 2017, Picchiotti created “L’Anfiteatro,” an 8.05-carat ruby ring inspired by a classic amphitheater.

French designer, Elie Top, unveiled a new collection of elaborate two-sided pieces based on astrology and other celestial imagery called, “Cosmogonie secrete” (Secret Cosmogony).

The House of Garrard brought some of its high jewelry to Couture including this statement diamond and ruby necklace.

Mother of pearl earrings by Goshwara.

The unusual ametrine stone, a mix of amethyst and citrine, used for a pair of earrings by John Hardy.

Designer Lisa Nik introduced her own “kite”-shaped gemstones at Couture.

Paraiba tourmaline and opal cuff by Saboo Fine Jewels.

Sterling silver with the look and feel of swirling twigs enhanced with golden leaves and white diamond tips make up this organic and artistic cuff by Michael Aram

A 22k gold locket with oxidized silver and diamonds by Arman Sarkisyan.

A bracelet featuring an opal owl surrounded with multi-colored gems by Wendy Yue.

Round precious materials inside golden cages is the premise behind Yael Sonia’s geometric inspired perpetual motion collection.

The Plumage three-finger ring by Stephen Webster in 18k white gold, white rhodium plating, marquise shape emeralds 4.58ct and white diamond pavé.

Three fluid 18k yellow gold bands connect and topped with six brilliant round diamonds in the Whirl Ring by Carelle.

White gold star clusters set with white diamonds by Colette.

Fabergé Emotion ring made with multi-colored sapphires, white diamonds, rubies, tsavorites and emeralds, set in 18k yellow gold.

Sterling silver with the look and feel of swirling twigs enhanced with golden leaves and white diamond tips make up this organic and artistic cuff by Michael Arman.

Pearl-centric designer, Mizuki, presented creative ways to match her multi-colored and –shaped pearls with gems and diamonds.

The jewelry brand, Noudar, uses Arabian themes and influences in its jewels, including its popular lace-like gold chokers in several colors.

A three-layer cluster diamond necklace with matching ring by Qayten.

18k gold with white and black diamond pavé with three center diamonds are used for Sara Weinstock’s Veena Shield pendant.

A bracelet in topaz and white gold in a signature design by Selim Mouzannar.

Anita Ko necklace using two rows of diamonds, each row with a different shape.

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The Hong Kong Jewelry Fair Begins

The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair opened Tuesday at AsiaWorld-Expo. AWE houses the raw materials section of the September Fair. The fine jewelry section, meanwhile, will open on September 15 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). 

Celebrating its 34th edition, the September Fair hosts more than 3,600 exhibitors from 55 countries and regions. Fair organizer UBM Asia expects about 58,000 buyers from around the world to create active traffic in the two venues. 

Among the highlights of the Hong Kong fair include:

* Exhibition space in the two venues totals more than 135,000 square meters.

* Debut of the Myanmar and Portugal Pavilions. The new additions bring to 24 the number of group pavilions in the two venues. 

* The single largest showcase of Hong Kong jewelry, with more than 1,250 Hong Kong companies participating in the two venues, accounting for around 35 percent of exhibitors.

* Once again the fair is home to the world’s largest diamond pavilion, with around 500 diamond companies, and Asia’s biggest gemstone marketplace, with more than 750 gemstone companies.

* New exhibitors from Nigeria, Peru, Portugal, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Slovak Republic (Slovakia), French Polynesia and the Republic of Vanuatu are participating.
* ALROSA, Russia’s diamond company and the world’s biggest diamond miner by volume, is hosting its diamond auction at the Fair from September 13 to 17 at AWE. Admission is by invitation only.

* Two international pearl auctions, the 68th Robert Wan Tahiti Perles Auction and the 59th Paspaley Pearl Auction, will also be held by invitation during the fair.

* The “Declaration Program on Exhibits of Natural Diamond”, is being introduced at this edition. Participants in the program will have on display at their booths a “Declaration Program on Exhibits of Natural Diamond” poster, which will demonstrate clearly to buyers that diamonds from these exhibitors are natural. This program provides an easier and quicker way for buyers to make an informed decision when purchasing diamonds. Participants in the program are members of global diamond trade organizations, including the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, the Antwerp World Diamond Center, Belgium and the Israel Diamond Institute. The diamond exhibitors will be housed in Halls 5, 7, 9 and 11 at AWE. 

* Since June 2012, the Trade Buyer ID has enjoyed warm reception from our esteemed buyers from around the world. Beginning at this edition of the September Fair, holders of the Trade Buyer ID can enjoy up to 25 percent discount on dining privileges at participating restaurants. Buyers simply need to present the Trade Buyer ID to enjoy this privilege. 

Despite challenging economic conditions in some parts of the world, consumer confidence in China and the rest of Asia remains steady, according to the Nielsen Global Survey of Consumer Confidence and Spending Intentions, Markets. The region’s confidence score reached or exceeded 100 points in the second quarter of 2016, the survey said. Countries surveyed in Asia included the Philippines, India, Indonesia, Vietnam, China, Pakistan and Thailand.

The continued healthy growth of the Asian market, particularly China, is not lost on players in the jewelry industry. According to Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at UBM Asia, more internationally renowned organizations and laboratories are establishing their presence in the China market. 

“They partner with local authorities to hold seminars, set up scholarships and share knowledge about the latest technologies in the industry. They believe there is room for growth in the China market so they are establishing their brands here through these activities,” Lau said. 

Over the last decade, the September fair has served as a bridge to tap into China’s lucrative market. As the preeminent jewelry fair for the industry, the fair provides the greatest product range not only for Chinese buyers but also for buyers from around the world. 

“The Fair is not only an effective marketplace and platform to tap into the Asian markets, but also functions as a ‘filter’ as only serious buyers and exhibitors will attend world-class fairs like the September Fair,” Lau said. “A fair of this caliber offers tremendous value to both exhibitors and buyers. It also provides easy access to some of the industry’s most reputable vendors, thus helping the industry to continue to grow.” 

To bring in more buyers from robust markets, UBM Asia has enhanced visitor promotion in certain markets. As a result, 24 buyer delegations from the mainland China are visiting this edition. Overseas delegates from Finland, Israel, Japan, Korea, Myanmar, Russian Federation and Vietnam are also coming.

The Hong Kong Premier Pavilion features around 30 of the city’s outstanding jewelry companies and their brands. Visitors are sure to be captivated by the exquisitely crafted jewelry collections that reflect the very best of Hong Kong’s jewelry manufacturing traditions. The pavilion is located in Halls 1D & E of HKCEC.

The International Premier Pavilion is a destination for the trendy. Located in Halls 3B & C of HKCEC, the pavilion houses a select group of over 50 exhibitors from 17 countries and regions, namely Belgium, mainland China, France, Germany, Greece, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Philippines, Russian Federation, Spain, Switzerland, Thailand, United Arab Emirates, and the United States.

The Fine Design Pavilion hosts 76 internationally renowned jewelrs in the Grand Hall of HKCEC. They will showcase exquisite jewelry set with luxurious and rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls, as well as top-quality bejeweled watches, valuable masterpieces, and exclusive jewels from around the world.

The Fine Gem Pavilion is dedicated to the world’s finest loose diamonds, pearls and gemstones. Located in Hall 9 of AWE, 54 esteemed exhibitors will showcase a variety of high-quality loose gems.

The Fair press conference will be held on September 15 at 11 a.m. in meeting rooms S226 – S227 of HKCEC. Heads of jewelry associations will share their views on the developments in the jewelry trade. The Senior Vice President of UBM Asia, Wolfram Diener, will announce the latest developments in UBM Asia’s jewelry fairs portfolio.

A Welcome Reception organized by UBM Asia will be held on September 15 at 6:30pm at the Grand Foyer of HKCEC. 

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Mixed Results For Diamonds And Gems At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

Registration on opening day at the materials portion of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Photo Credit: UBM Asia

Final figures for the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair haven’t been released yet but it appears that visitor numbers for the portion of the fare dealing with jewelry making materials, equipment and packaging will be flat or slightly down. 

This portion of the show (which is held at two venues) was hosted at the Asia World-Expo. It hosts the largest diamond pavilion in the world, the largest gemstone marketplace in Asia and a pavilion representing all of the major pearl regions. It also includes jewelry-making equipment and displays and boxes for jewels.

The diamond industry has had a difficult year and going into the show expectations were low. 

“The diamond industry in general, like a lot of other commodities, was geared toward rapid Chinese growth. Now things have slowed which created a lot of inventory,” Russell Shor, senior industry analyst with the Gemological Institute of America, said prior to the fair. “What you’re going to see is cautious buying and hard bargaining on prices. They have an idea of what they can sell for the year and they are not going to take a chance on buying anything extra…. It’s a buyer’s market.”

However, during the fair, he said most dealers “did better than expected.”

Ernie Blom, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, said in a statement the fair turned out to be good sign for dealers.

“The Hong Kong show, due to the global nature of its exhibitors, buyers and visitors, serves as a useful barometer of industry sentiment, so it is very promising that demand at the fair was stable.”

In the colored gem area, Gary Roskin, executive director of the International Colored Gemstone Association, said about 100 members exhibiting in a pavilion managed by the organization, another 100 vendors in the 22 country pavilions and about 200 members attending as buyers.

“With the Chinese economy slowing down, our ICA members came in with modest expectations. However, like any trade show, some of our ICA exhibitors had very good shows despite the economic news. There were also a number of our members who were happy to see established clients return to place good orders, while a few ICA members mentioned actually meeting new clients who saved the show.”

He adds, “As an exhibitor, you have to be at the shows consistently, in good times and bad, so that you establish yourself as a reliable company.”

The most crowded part of the show was the equipment area, where throngs of people were viewing everything from 3D printers to finishing and polishing equipment.

Wolfram Diener, senior VP of UBM Asia, said this was promising for the industry because it shows that jewelers and manufacturers expect to do more business. If not, many wouldn’t be looking to upgrade their equipment. 

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Pearl Jewelry Sheds Its Old Image

Qayten Twist necklace made with baby Akoya pearls

There has been talk recently about the return of pearls as a fashionable and trendy choice for fine jewelry. My question is why now? Designers have been creating vibrant and fresh jewels with pearls for at least the past three years and little has been written about it.

But now that some writers have seen the light will retailers and consumers follow? Currently, I don’t see it.

Baroque pearl bracelet with 18k yellow gold and a touch of diamonds by Mizuki

Natural pearls are among the most sought after items on the auction market today, generating high demand and prices due to their rarity. But it accounts for less than 1 percent of the pearl market. Maybe that is what’s driving this narrative in the broader market.

Pasquale Bruni Sissi Lunaire ring

Outside of the rare and natural, pearls suffer from being perhaps the most complex category of product in the jewelry industry. They are grown from live oysters, which makes them prone to the same dangers that threaten any agricultural product (such as disease, hostile weather and overproduction). The sales and distribution system is a tangle web of complexity and inefficiency. Pearls have many different origins, shapes and a range of quality variations that are difficult to judge with the naked eye. This makes it very confusing not only to consumers, but to many retailers.

Emerald ring with curved rows of micropearls by Suzanne Syz

Many consumers, particularly in the US, are stuck with the perception that pearl jewelry lacks a modern appeal, most closely associated with a string of white pearls for a mature woman. This is despite the explosion of cultured pearls in all kinds of colors, shapes and sizes and that the jewelry being created is as fashionable and contemporary as any being made today.

While I’m not convinced that this perception has changed, I am convinced that if people are able to see the designs their inhibitions would melt away. Designers are making everything from fine jewels to high jewels that are innovative and creative. They are using all the pearls available in all of their colors and shapes.

Celestial Spell Charm tassel necklace in 24k gold by Gurhan

Suzanne Syz introduced me to “micropearls,” the tiniest of pearls, and how they can be used for extremely complex high jewelry. For a ring, tiny curved rows of these pearls extend outward from an emerald. In another use, these pearls encase sapphire earrings in an elaborate egg-shaped cage that is both airy and delicate in appearance while being durable and flexible.

Italian jeweler, Qayten, specializes in Akoya pearls big and small and does extremely creative thigns with them, from large, multi-layered bib necklaces to delicate jewels mixed with gold and precious gems.

A pearl necklace by Paul Morelli. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

New York-based Mizuki pairs large baroque pearls with thin gold chains and touch of diamonds for delicate, refined bracelets and necklaces with a touch of boldness.

Italian designer, Pasquale Bruni, launched the Sissi Lunaire collection featuring white and champagne-colored pearls in crowns of pink gold and white and brown diamonds set in gold.

A high jewelry necklace using colorful pearls matched with diamonds and colored gems by Yoko London

Yoko London makes all kinds of pieces from high jewelry to fashion pieces using all types and colors of pearls, mixed with precious materials, such as high-karat gold, diamonds and colored gems.

There are many more exciting designs in the photographs.

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The Best of The Best Jewelry At Baselworld 2015

Fabergé Secret Garden necklace

Baselworld is known as a watch show but it is also one of the best places in the world to see the newest and best in jewelry from around the world, particularly at the luxury end. 

Among the brands that really made an impression this year was Fabergé. Not only with its first Imperial style jeweled egg in nearly a century. I already featured its Pearl Egg but the company exhibited several high jewelry collections reminiscent of the Fabergé of old, including a candy-colored collection of jewels called “Secret Garden (top photo).” Natalia Shugaeva, Fabergé’s head designer, said she wanted to create a collection of jewels that are opulent and refined. She succeeded.

From friends to those who actually work for the brand the word most used to describe the work of Fawaz Gruosi and his high jewelry brand, De Grisogono, is “crazy.” It is meant in the best possible sense. His singular creative designs have won the brand fame throughout the world and this year at Baselworld there were several ultra-imaginative masterpieces on displays. It’s almost become typical to expect the wonderfully unexpected from De Grisogono. Yhe De Grisogono High Jewelry necklace picture is a perfect example in 18k white and rose gold, 12 briolette-cut emeralds, 19 round-cut rubies (approximately 12.66 cts.), 29 marquise-cut white diamonds (approximately 11.01 cts.), 1,366 emeralds (approx. 60.20 ct s ) and 2603 white diamonds (approximately 137.54 cts.).

Chopard unveiled its High Jewelry Collection at Baselworld and even among the selection of jewelry destined for Red Carpet events one piece stood out. An ocean blue ring featuring a 41.57-carat oval shaped paraíba tourmaline from Mozambique and 8.8-carats of diamonds set in a lace-work of 18k white gold.

Georg Jensen and its managing director of jewelry, Meeling Wong, created several collections of refined jewelry that reinterpret the traditional designs of the famed silversmith brand. Among the items that stood out was a collection of pieces in collaboration with colored gemstone mining company, Gemfields.

Graff Diamonds also provided an exceptional jewelry not only in terms of size but in nuanced ways, showcasing several pieces that can be worn in a variety of ways or with clever use of material. The latter could be seen in the diamond tassel necklace pictured above.

Antonini, introduced a number of new collections with what it calls “natural” white gold, which is more like white mixed with a grey or yellow tint. It is used in a matte finished. Meanwhile more traditional rhodium-finished white and black gold is creatively used as a background for rough-textured pavé settings.

Pasquale Bruni introduced a number of colorful items led by Fiori in Fiore (Flowers in Bloom), featuring diamonds mixed with pink sapphires and morganite. 

Roberto Coin made a statement with its steely-eyed Falco (hawk or falcon, take your pick) ring and bracelet.  

Brumani was again as always a great designer of multi-colored stones that reflect the vibrancy of its home country Brazil and this year was no different as with these pastel colored earrings show. 

Like few other brands, Sutra brought color to the party with exceptional gemstones and creative designs as with these turquoise, diamond and gold earrings. 

More color was provided by Yoko London through its pearl-centric designs. 

Spanish brand Carrera y Carrera celebrated its 140th year anniversary with a collection of delicate, hand-made gold pieces. 

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