Miners Partner With Designers To Create Sustainable Jewels

Emerald and diamond necklace by Carolina Bucci using Gemfields Zambian emeralds 

Two London-based mining companies worked with jewellery designers to create new pieces that promote the sustainable and humane practices of the mines they operate. Another key selling point is provenance, knowing which mine the gems were unearthed.

London-based mining and marketing company, Gemfields, worked with MUSE, a New York showroom for emerging and established fine jewellery designers, for a collection of limited-edition and well-priced jewels. Designers Carolina Bucci, Dezso by Sara Beltrán, Elena Votsi, Holly Dyment, Michelle Fantaci, Nikos Koulis, Savannah Stranger, Silvia Furmanovich, Yossi Harari and AYA by Chelsy Davy unveiled a range of jewels at the Couture Show using Mozambican rubies and Zambian emeralds from Gemfields’ mines in those two countries.

“Rose Petal” earrings by Silvia Furmanovich using Gemfields Mozambican rubies

Most styles are based on each of the designers’ bestsellers, recreated with Gemfields rubies and emeralds. The collection is for everyday wear targeting a fashion-forward consumer, with the majority of the limited production collection falling within the $1,000 and $10,000 price range (with the exception of a few high value statement pieces).

This type of approach isn’t new for Gemfields. The company has been producing collections through partnerships with designers (experienced and emerging) for a number of years. The difference with this particular collection is its affordability.

Ruby and diamond “Crisscross” ring by Yossi Harari using Gemfields Mozambican rubies

“Having done collaborations at both ends of the spectrum, we see the alignment with MUSE as the perfect opportunity to showcase the versatility of color and connect with a fresh new audience,” said Gabriella Harvey, Gemfields director of Procurement and Product Services.

18k yellow gold and diamond earrings by Suzanne Kalan with diamonds from Rio Tinto’s Argyle mine

Mining giant Rio Tinto used unveiled their “Diamonds with Story” collection, working with six US designers: Paige Novick, Xiao Wang, Jennifer Dawes, Matthew Campbell Laurenza, Suzanne Kalan and Sandy Leong. All of the diamonds are sourced from Rio Tinto’s Argyle Mine in Western Australia. The mine is most famously known for its rare Argyle pink diamonds. However, diamonds being used for the collections are primarily white and champagne.

The “Infinity’ three row curved ring by Paige Novick with diamond pave from Rio Tinto’s Argyle mine

Like Gemfields, affordability is important with these creations. Unlike Gemfields, all of the designers are experienced and well-known to the trade and consumers.

18k yellow gold band, 6g, .53ctw rose cut cognac diamonds, .05ctw round brilliant cut diamonds by Jennifer Dawes using Rio Tinto diamonds from its Argyle mine

“Increasingly, the value of a diamond is tied to where and how the diamond was mined, how it was cut and polished, and the process of bringing it to sale,” said Bruno Sané, general manager of marketing for Rio Tinto Diamonds. “This is a very reasonable expectation that is steadily reshaping the diamond industry for the better.” 

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Why You Should Be Paying Attention To The Jewelry Industry Summit

JIS presentation by Dorothee Gizenga, executive director of Diamond Development Initiative 

By Teresa Frye, TechForm Advanced Casting

I was intrigued when I received an email last January promoting the inaugural “Jewelry Industry Summit.” an open forum on sustainability and responsible sourcing for our industry. Although I wasn’t sure quite what to expect with an open forum format, and was even less sure about what I might be able to contribute. I registered because I wanted to learn more about the emerging trend for responsible jewelry. As casters for the trade, my company is increasingly asked to provide certified recycled metal, and this is just one indicator among many of the consumer’s budding desires for ethically sourced materials.

The Summit was held in New York City on March 11-13 and was attended by 150 people representing a wide cross-section of the jewelry industry. I think it can best be described as a high-energy think tank. I was struck by the amount of talent in the room, ranging from seasoned early adopters of the green movement, to forward-thinking companies that want to stay one step ahead of the consumer’s desires, to even a few skeptics that think the whole notion is overblown. I was equally struck by the amount of passion in the room. There was a palpable sense of doing the right thing, for humanity, the planet and ultimately the jewelry businesses themselves. I have to say it stirred my inner activist in a way I have not yet experienced in this industry, and I’m the kind of person that gets stirred on a regular basis. It felt like more than just lively discussion; it seemed that a nascent movement was truly upon us.

Exaggeration? Perhaps. But one thing is for sure. If we as a trade don’t tell our own story, we risk that the consumer, or heaven forbid, Hollywood will. And they are not likely to get it right. The Summit was a pre-emptive strike on the path to our telling a good story. It was refreshing to see the trade pull together and focus solely on consumer concerns and the inherent importance of cleaning up the supply chain. We know for sure that diseases such as silicosis, the scourge of artisanal stone cutting, are 100% preventable through education and access to proper equipment. We know that Fairmining practices help indigenous populations to earn a just wage and not have to sacrifice their health just to put bread on the table. We know these things and now we are being called upon to act.

Infrastructure towards a more sustainable supply chain already exists in the form of NGOs and non-profits like the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) in France, and Diamond Development Initiative (DDI) in Canada, among many others. In addition, non-profit international standards organizations that range from mine to retail such as the Responsible Jewellery Council also offer companies a road map to ethical sourcing. It seems to me that this is an opportunity we can choose to embrace, or alternatively choose to ignore in the hopes that consumer demand to know where products come from is just a passing fad. While no one denies this is a tall mountain to climb, it’s time to strap on our crampons and take the high road.

Read the entire JIS Final Report released March 31 here.

For more information the Jewelry Industry Summit’s upcoming events click here.

Teresa Frye is founder of TechForm, which specializes in the casting of platinum group metals for the jewelry, medical, and aerospace industries. She is also founder of the Portland Jewelry Symposium, an annual gathering of custom jewelers, designers, and retailers described as a “great think tank” for jewelers who are passionate about their craft. Frye is a renowned specialist on the casting of platinum group metals who speaks at jewelry events throughout the world. 

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