‘The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor’ Tour Dates Announced

Photo Credit: Christie's

Admirers of Elizabeth Taylor will have a chance to view many of her most cherished items as they will appear on a world tour before going up for auction at Christie’s.

The international auction house unveiled the dates of a landmark series of public exhibitions and special events around the world. The tour will begin in Moscow and go through major cities in Europe, Asia the Middle East and the U.S. before returning to New York for a final 10-day exhibition and the four-day sale at Christie’s Rockefeller Center headquarters in December. The auction house will devote its gallery space to the exhibition and sale to what it is calling, "The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor."

Photo Credit: MPTV images

Christie’s said it will donate a portion of the money generated through exhibition admissions, events and publications to The Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation. Founded in l991, ETAF provides funding to AIDS service organizations throughout the world to assist those living with HIV and AIDS.

The exhibition tour schedule and sale dates are as follows:

Moscow:

September 15-16

GUM, Red Square 3

London:

September 24-26

Christie's, 8 King Street, St. James’s

Los Angeles:

October 13-16

Venue TBD

Dubai:

October 23

Jumeirah Emirates Towers

Geneva:

November 11-12

Four Seasons Hotel, 33 quai des Bergues

Paris:

November 16-17

Christie's, 9 avenue Matignon

Hong Kong:

November 24-27

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Center

New York:

December 3-12

Christie's, 20 Rockefeller Plaza

The Legendary Jewels, Evening Sale, December 13

Jewelry (Sessions II & II), December 14

The Icon and her Haute Couture, Evening Sale, December 14

Fashion and Accessories (Sessions II, III & IV), December 15

Fine and Decorative Art & Film Memorabilia, December 16, including costumes

U.S. Gold Jewelry Demand Down 8%; Global Jewelry Demand Up 6%; India Accounts for 32% of Demand

Gold jewelry demand in the U.S. fell 8 percent, year-over-year, to 21.7 metric tons for the second quarter of 2011, the World Gold Council said Thursday. However, in value terms, demand strengthened by 15 percent to $1.1 billion, which mostly reflects a 26 percent increase in the price of gold during the period.

“The combination of high unemployment, frail economic growth and stubborn inflation pressures produced an environment that was not favorable for gold jewelry demand,” the WGC said in its Gold Demand Trends report for the second quarter of 2011. “The quarter was characterized by continued thrifting among retailers among retailers in order to meet affordable price points and 10k items were encroaching 14k market share.”

The report went on to note that gold jewelry was facing “stiff competition” from silver, and specifically cited jewelry maker, Pandora, which specializes in silver charms. However, this company has lost some of its luster in recent weeks.

Overall global gold jewelry demand rose by 6 percent, year-over-year, to 442.5 tons, equivalent to $21.4 billion in value—led by India, which accounted for 32 percent of global jewelry demand, WGC said.

Gold jewelry demand in India rose 17 percent in the second quarter, compared with a relatively weak year-earlier period. In value, the rise was 42 percent for the period. The WGC noted that the Akshaya Tritya festival in May (traditionally a key gold jewelry buying occasion on the Hindu calendar) “stimulated a surge of buying.”

In China, jewelry demand in the second quarter, normally a quiet period, rose 16 percent, year-over-year, to 102.9 tons, WGC said. The local currency value of demand increased 40 percent, year-over-year, for the period. Demand for 24k and 18k gold in China represents gold's attraction as both an investment and as a reflection of the demand for better-quality jewelry.

“Increasing prosperity among Chinese consumers, supported by very strong growth in the domestic economy, is still a driving force behind gold jewelry demand,” the WGC said.

Among the European markets, Russia was the only country to experience limited growth for the second quarter, WGC said. Demand was “marginally higher” at 16.9 tons, which translated to growth in value of 27 percent. However, the WGC said that year-to-date imports have grown considerably in Russia as its economy improves.

The second quarter was weak for both Italy and the United Kingdom, with demand falling by 15 percent and 16 percent, respectively. In value, demand fell by 6 percent in Italy and 4 percent in the U.K. The report cites rising gold prices and continued economic weakness as the culprits.

Demand in Turkey was “unexpectedly” robust during the second quarter, up 7 percent to 17.4 tons, equivalent to 38 percent growth in value. Consumers purchased 22k gold jewelry during period of the quarter when gold prices dropped several times in May and June.

Among other Asian markets, gold jewelry demand fell 9 percent to 1.9 tons in Taiwan due to the rising price of the precious metal. However, gold demand for wedding sets grew 10 percent for the period.

In Japan, gold jewelry demand dropped 14 percent to 4.2 tons as consumers are still suffering from the March earthquake and tsunami, WGC said. In value terms, the decline was a more modest 4 percent. The WGC noted some “encouraging” signs in the Japanese market with increased demand for “very-high-end” jewelry and in gold chains, purchased more for investment purposes than adornment.

In the remaining markets in the Southeast region, gold jewelry fell due to its high price. Thailand, Indonesia and Korea reported year-over-year declines of 5 percent, 3 percent and 2 percent, respectively. In value terms, demand grew between 19 percent and 23 percent.

An exception for the region was Vietnam, where demand grew by 6 percent, year-over-year, to 3.3 tons, WGC said. This increase was concentrated in “chi” rings (plain 24k rings).

Middle East markets experienced weak second quarters. In Saudi Arabia, jewelry demand fell 16 percent to 21 tons, the largest drop in the region. Demand fell in Egypt by 8 percent to 8.3 tons. Demand from the other Gulf countries fell 4 percent to 4.9 tons. The most resilient market was the United Arab Emirates, I which demand fell by 1 percent to 16.1 tons.

Global gold demand for the second quarter of 2011 fell 17 percent year-over-year to 919.8 metric tons, according to the WGC Trends report. However, the value of the precious metal grew 5 percent to $44.5 billion—the second highest quarterly value on record due to the 26 percent increase in the price of gold during the period. Read more about the overall gold trends on my Forbes.com blog.

Danish Authorities Investigate Pandora’s IPO

One of the largest IPOs in 2010 is now being investigated by the Danish government.

The Danish Financial Supervisory Authority, the country’s market regulator, said Tuesday they will ask police to investigate Nordea Bank Denmark, a unit of Sweden's Nordea, for failing to report its financial interest in jewelry maker Pandora in an investment analysis prior to the  company’s float in October, Reuters reports.

The FSA said at the time of the analysis, Nordea’s indirect ownership in Pandora was 3.9 percent, the FSA reportedly said. Before the company was listed on the Copenhagen stock exchange, that stake was worth around 1.23 billion Danish crowns ($238.5 million).

“It is the FSA's evaluation that the general disclaimer does not sufficiently live up to the notice requirements regarding the announcement of significant financial interests,” the FSA reportedly said in a statement.

Nordea has reportedly admitted fault and said it will “adjust” its notification policy.

Nordea was one of the arrangers of Pandora’s IPO on the Copenhagen Stock Exchange in October, Reuters reports. That float raised $2.1 billion for the company, known for its popular charm jewelry. It was the fourth largest IPO in Europe in 2010.

The company, which designs its jewelry at its Copenhagen’s headquarters and makes them in cost-friendly Thailand, was flying high following the IPO with earnings reports touting spectacular growth until August 2, when the company released its second quarter report two weeks early with less than expected growth as well as declines in major markets. It drastically downgraded its sales and profits targets for 2011 from a revenue growth of no less than 30 percent to 0; and noted that sales fell 30 percent in July.

The profit warning caused the company’s stock to drop 70 percent in less than a day. Since its IPO, the company has reportedly lost 80 percent of its value.

Goshwara Strives for Perfection with its Colorful, Gemstone Jewelry

Emerald tassel earrings with diamonds and onyx Trim in 18k gold from the G-One collection.

Perfection is elusive and almost impossible to attain. But that doesn’t mean one shouldn’t strive for it. Goshwara was the term used to describe a perfect teardrop shape in the court of Persian and Indian kings and is still used among those who work in gem cutting and polishing factories. It is also the name of a young jewelry brand that specializes in colorful gemstone jewelry.

Blue topaz and peridot cab drop earrings with diamonds in 18k white gold from the Naughty collection.

Sweta Jain, the head designer for the New York-based company, was raised in the jewelry and gemstone business. Her father is a colored stone dealer and manufacturer and Sweta spent her childhood helping him wash and assort rough emeralds, visiting gem mines with him in Africa, and learning manufacturing techniques in cutting factories in Jaipur, India. This first-hand education gave her a well-rounded background in sourcing, cutting and polishing gems; and designing jewelry around the stones.

Large fluted bead necklaces with stone and gold rondels in 18k yellow gold from the Saffa collection.

This process of sourcing and polishing and then creating jewelry is difficult. Sourcing different types of gemstones involves working with dealers in various parts of the world. Cutting and polishing requires a different skill set and another group of companies to deal with. Then, one must work with jewelry designers and manufacturers to actually create the finished product. It’s an inefficient system that makes it difficult to control costs, quality and reliability.

Carved emerald ring with rubies and diamond in platinum from the One collection.

Goshwara is able to control much of this process through its parent company, Lush, also based in New York. Having a jewelry company in house with stone polishing and jewelry manufacturing capabilities has created an efficient operation in which Jain can design jewelry to better reflect her personal style and philosophy.

Blue Topaz and amethyst cushion bracelet with diamond toggle in 18k white gold from the Gossip collection.

“I always want colors to be the highlight of my jewelry; hence I create jewelry pieces that are simple in design, yet are bold and fun and make a fashion statement,” Jain says. “Above all I always want my jewelry to be comfortable.”

Peridot and rubelite necklace from the Beyond collection.

Mixing colors is certainly an important part of the design philosophy and using a variety of gemstones with different cuts and finishes brings a myriad of combinations. “I love to mix colors, and always feel that colors have the ability to change and reflect moods and highlight moments in an individual’s life,” Jain says.

Tumbled amethyst earrings in 18K gold from the Freedom collection.

The cutting and polishing skills are exceptional. Cabochons are polished to varying degrees of translucency or to varying degrees of darkness. Faceted gems sparkle. Emeralds and Mandarin garnet beads glitter.

Cabochon bracelet and amethyst rubelite with diamonds in 18k yellow gold from the Rock n Roll collection.

The combination of design skills and craftsmanship may not reach perfection, but it comes close.

Multi-disc chain necklace in 18k yellow gold from the Mischief collection.

Hermès Watches Reinterpret the Passing of Time

Arceau Temps Suspendu in a steel case and opaline silver dial with herringbone motif.

In the world you and I inhabit it may seem that time moves in a linear fashion. But in the world of Hermès time can be suspended and days can disappear while hours can travel at an unpredictable pace.

The famed Parisian luxury house, the apple of Bernard Arnault’s eye, recently introduced two watch lines that are not only aesthetically pleasing but challenge the assumptions of how one uses a watch.

Arceau Temps Suspendu in a steel case and black dial with herringbone motif.

The Arceau Temps Suspendu watch has a button at the 9 o’clock mark that when pressed, the hands move to the 12 o’clock mark. Also, the hand on the retrograde date complication disappears. Thus, time is suspended. To return to the proper time just press the 9 o’clock button again and as long as the automatic movement is running the hands will return to the right places.

Arceau Temps Suspendu in a rose gold case and opaline silver dial with herringbone motif.

The sophisticated mechanics are located inside a refined face that makes the movements possible. The retrograde date function, on the lower portion of the watch dial, between the 7 o’clock and 3 o’clock markers, is raised to make it easy to read—a function that is all too rare in watches. When in its suspended mode, the date hand disappears into a slightly raised section at the bottom of the watch. In addition, as part of the suspended motion, the hour and minute hands collapse into a slight V shaped depression on either side of the 12 o’clock mark.

The watch is housed inside 43 mm-diameter case available in rose gold or steel.

Cape Cod in steel with anthracite dial. The hour display accelerates from 7 a.m. till 11 a.m. and from 1 p.m. till 5 p.m. It slows from 11 a.m. till 1 p.m. and from 5 p.m. till 7 p.m. It comes with a matte graphite alligator strap.

Meanwhile, the handsome Cape Cod Grandes Heures dons three different dials where the user can choose the pace of how the watch details the time. The curved, rectangular case reveals a dial that provides time made to measure with a guilloché setting swept over by skeleton hands. The hours on the dial are bunched together and spread apart in a seemingly haphazard fashion, but there is a method to this madness.

Cape Cod in steel with silver dial. The hour display acelerates from 8 a.m. till noon and from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. It slows from 6 p.m. till 8 p.m. and from noon till 2 p.m. It comes with a matte havana alligator strap.

The tempo of the hours on the automated movement accelerates and slows to correspond with the arrangement of the hour markers while the minute hand keeps at a constant speed. That’s because of a toothed oval wheel system that enables the hour hand—thanks to the shape of the gear—to speed up or slow down its motion.

Cape Cod in steel with anthracite dial. The hour display accelerates from 10 a.m. till 2 p.m. and from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. It slows from 8 a.m. till 10 a.m. and from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. It comes with a matte graphite alligator strap.

Boucheron’s Wild and Crazy Ladies Watches

Héra Tourbillon

For more than 150 years, Boucheron has held an esteemed place in the rarified world of haute joaillerie. Early this year, the Parisian jewelry house introduced its “Cabinet of Curiosities,” a jewelry and timepiece collection based on animals and presented in a wildlife setting.

At Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and jewelry tradeshow in Basel, Switzerland, held in March, I was able to go inside that cabinet to view watches from this collection. Among the items exhibited in the firm’s showroom were ladies watches made of colorful gemstones, diamonds and mother of pearl in elaborate, “audacious” designs made with plenty of gemstones along with mother-of-pearl that certainly attract attention.

The watches are known as the “Crazy Collection. What they share is an attention to detail, refined craftsmanship and individual styling that has earned an international following for Boucheron. As an added bonus, these timepieces, which really border on being art pieces, tell fantasized individual stories, many inspired by India, the Middle East and Greece. 

Héra Tourbillon

The bejeweled watch bracelet combines high watch making with high jewelry. It gets its name from the Greek goddess who purportedly added the “eyes” to the peacock’s tail. It’s powered by the three gold Bridges Tourbillon designed by Girard-Perregaux. This movement is energized by Boucheron’s delicate jeweled adornments. The mechanism itself is set with two different shades of green Paribas tourmalines along with diamonds to create the body of the peacock. The plumage is made of white gold set with diamonds, sapphires and Paribas tourmalines.

Crazy Jungle Flamingo

Boucheron focused on its skilled craftsmanship to create a watch with texture and perspective. The timepiece pictured is in white gold set with diamonds and tsavorites with an automatic GP4000 movement. The transparent mother-of-pearl and lacquered dial is set with white and pink diamonds, and tsavorites. It comes with a pink satin watch strap.

Crazy Jungle Hathi

This timepiece gets its moniker from the Hindi word for elephant and is inspired by the ceremonial elephants used by royalty in India. The watch that is pictured is made of white gold set with blue sapphires, diamonds and tsavorites with an automatic GP4000 movement. The elephant’s blanket contains the “Crazy Seconds” module, which acts like a spinning kaleidoscope of color. The dial is made of Murano aventurine glass mosaic set with diamonds, sapphires, tsavorites, amethysts and onyx. It comes with a purple-blue satin strap.

Crazy Jungle Seahorse

Boucheron created a watch with a rich and energetic dial that is teaming with sea life, centered by a bejeweled seahorse. The low relief allows light to roll across the colorful gems, which enhances the feeling of movement. The watch pictured is rose gold set with multicolored sapphires and diamonds with an automatic GP4000 movement. The dial is made of white mother-of-pearl and petrified palm tree marquetry set with multicolored sapphires, diamonds, garnets and onyx. It comes with a white brushed satin strap.

Crazy Shéhérazade

Inspired by the novel, “One Thousand and One Nights,” this watch draws the eye into its colorful and spinning world of bejeweled light and texture. This model comes in white gold and diamonds with an automatic GP4000 movement and the “Crazy Seconds” module, which acts like a spinning kaleidoscope of color within an off-centered aperture. The dial is made of lapis lazuli mosaic set with multicolored sapphires, amethysts, aquamarines and diamonds. It is available with a purple-blue satin strap.

Orientale

This Indian-inspired watch in rose gold and diamond has a light pink dial made of mother-of-pearl mosaic set with diamonds and pink sapphires. It is available with a pink sapphire strap.