10 New Jewelry Designs from the Centurion Show

8k gold ring with diamond pave is centered with a large emerald cabochon.

It appears that luxury jewelry designers are through experimenting with less expensive materials (due to the economic collapse and high cost of materials) and have returned to producing creations with high-karat gold and platinum as well as big bold gemstones and lots of diamond pavé, if the Centurion Jewelry Show is any indication of what’s to come this year. And I believe it is.

The first major U.S. tradeshow of the year was held Feb. 3 - 5 in Scottsdale, Ariz. The invitation-only event caters to the luxury end of the market. One of the things it provides is the first chance for those in the U.S. to view new designs for the year. I presented an early appetizer of the pieces on display with the Centurion Design Award winners. Now here are 10 more jewelry designers that caught my attention during the show. Enjoy.

Erica Courtney is one of the few designers who can be on trend while maintaining exceptionally high standards, presented an entire collection based on green, including this 18k gold ring is centered with a large emerald cabochon (top photo). The intricate, sculptural-like details of gold are further enhanced with 18k diamond pave.

The Tilley engagement ring by Jeff Cooper Designs features a single row of pave diamonds that tapers toward the center, giving extra emphasis to the center stone. It is available in platinum or 18k gold.

Damiani has come out with a ceramic jewelry line called D.Icon, which includes this ring made of white ceramic with pink gold and diamonds (0.21 cts.).

The Mimi So Phoenix Stackable Band has18k rose gold and leaf work covered in diamonds. It is stackable with other rings in the collection.

Fope Gioielli introduced a flexible cross-over bracelet with elastic wrapping features to the Flex'it Solo line. It is made of 18-carat gold, with or without diamonds.

18k white gold heart shaped hoops with detachable London Blue Topaz drops by Lisa Nik.

Syna Jewels, a new exhibitor, presented a series of highly polished chalcedony drops set with 18k yellow gold from the Mogul collection.

All of the operations of the Frédérique Constant Classics Manufacture Worldtimer is done through the crown, which simplifies setting the time and date, and calibrating the worldtimer. The watch is powered by the FC-718 caliber movement, built in house. The dial is available in a guilloché design or with a silver world map in its center. The watch is also available in steel for $3,450 and rose-gold for $4,150.

The Links of London 8-carat rose gold necklace with a rose gold and black pearl pendant from the Effervescence collection.

18k white gold diamond band in a leaf pattern with yellow gold accents sprinkled with diamonds by Beverley K.

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New Website, Book and Jewelry Line from Designer Turned Curator Elizabeth Galton

Elizabeth Galton

It’s been a very busy year for London-based jewelry designer Elizabeth Galton. The former creative director of Links of London quit her high-prestige job to start her own company where she serves as a curator, a champion if you will, for other contemporary and commercially viable designers. The result is the luxury jewelry and accessories website, ElizabethGaltonStudio.com.

The site features collections for women and men from more than 60 contemporary luxury designers. The website allows users to easily view and purchase luxury jewelry, gifts and accessories from a new generation of design talent. Prices for gift, bridal and bespoke items range from $64 for soft accessories to $56,000 for fine jewelry designs to more than $100,000 for bespoke pieces.

The thing that’s novel about this venture, is that this well-known jewelry designer is using her stature in the industry and with consumers to bring other designers onto an online medium. It’s Galton’s name and face that brings credibility to the website.

Many of these designers worked either for Links of London while Galton was leading the design department or worked as designers with similar companies. For example, the Duppoini printed silk scarves that are sold on the site were created by Kate Llamas, formerly from Harrods whose designer, Polina Gineva, created the celebrated Alexander McQueen skull scarf. Jenny Mercian, founder of the Sahani Brand of Swarovski encrusted pieces, previously designed for Victoria’s Secrets. Her celebrity followers include Miranda Kerr, Cheryl Cole and Mary J Blige. Then there’s jewelry designer, Claire English, described by Stephen Webster as “Britain’s next big thing.”

Galton says she knows all of the designers on her website and relishes the opportunity to curate and promote their work.

“EG Studio was borne out of a desire to champion such talent, Galton says. “Their designs speak for themselves and present you with the inside track on unique creations—they are my edit of the best that young “Cool Britannia’ has to offer.”

Galton’s editing doesn’t stop on the design floor. She is in the early stages of publishing her first book. Its object is to be a comprehensive guide on jewelry design from a commercial aspect. Her book will include designers from Elizabeth Galton Studio as well as other designers. So again, she will be serving a curator’s role.

EG Classics bracelet

Finally, Galton has returned to the design floor to create an affordable, colorful line of fashion bracelets that will of course be sold on her website. Galton said her EG Classics bracelets are versatile and will add life to any outfit. They will sell for about $89.

Future Princess Kate Middleton Wears Links of London Earrings

Catherine Middleton wore a pair of Links of London earrings for the official engagement photograph with Prince William.

They were identified by Professional Jeweller as white topaz Hope earrings, which were worn to complement her diamond and sapphire engagement ring. It’s the same ring that William’s father, Prince Charles, gave to his mother, Princess Diana, on February 24, 1981.

They were photographed by renowned fashion photographer Mario Testino in the Council Chamber in the State Apartment in St James’s Palace.

John Ayton's Mentor

The Financial Times  on Wednesday published a story asking five successful entrepreneurs from very different businesses who their mentors were and what they taught them (subscription required). John Ayton, founder of Links of London and Annoushka Jewellery, was one of the persons profiled. His response is below: 

I was a lawyer between 1986 and 1992 before going into business. The person who taught me lessons I have used in my working life was David Macfarlane, a senior partner I shared a room with at Ashurst, the City law firm. When you see someone up close for so much time you end up absorbing some of their traits.

He would find it ironic that I see him as a mentor as, after working with him, I quit law. In fact, he was the one who sat me down and told me I had to choose between law and business – I had started a few entrepreneurial projects, including Links, while a solicitor. We had an amicable divorce, and remained in contact. From him, I learnt how to negotiate and how to see the wood for the trees.

After I sold Links in 2006 I set up Walpole Brands of Tomorrow, which matches mentors with young luxury businesses. Being a mentor is not completely altruistic, as working with small start-ups burgeoning with fresh ideas is invigorating. It also puts you in touch with new markets.