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Showing posts with label Parsons New School for Design. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Parsons New School for Design. Show all posts

Friday, March 1, 2013

Luxury Jewelry Brands and Students Learn From Each Other

Ketty Pucci-Sisti Maisonrouge, Luxury Education Foundation president, addresses attendees prior to student presentations.

It’s a common scene played out in universities throughout the world: Final presentations. Uris Hall in Columbia University in early December was no different with students hurrying in and out of lecture hall 301, dealing with technical issues and making final adjustments to their proposals.

It all seemed typical but yet different. For one thing many of the students were carrying Loro Piana shopping bags. They also seemed remarkably well-dressed for students, with some in proper business attire and others wearing designer outfits, in a few cases sporting serious looking jewelry. The auditorium was filled with fashionably dressed adults who were obviously not instructors or parents.

In the middle of it all, greeting everyone by name and giving direction to the students, perfectly poised and displaying a permanent warm smile was Ketty Pucci-Sisti Maisonrouge. She is an adjunct professor at Columbia Business School, but more importantly, president of the Luxury Education Foundation, which runs and funds this program. The majority of those in the audience were executives from the world’s top luxury brands.

Established in 2004, LEF is a public, not-for-profit organization focused on educational programs for undergraduate and graduate students in design and business students related to the creation and marketing of luxury goods. It is unusual and perhaps groundbreaking in several ways, most noticeably because it combines students from two distinct universities whose intellectual paths at first seem far different: Columbia MBA students and undergrad students from Parsons The New School for Design. It is this combination of business and creative skills that make luxury and fashion so different than other industries and it is the main reason why this program has had a great deal of success.


Amir Ziv, vice dean of the Columbia Business School, talks about integration and education. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

“Many times we talk in Columbia about integration, but we are talking about integration between accounting and finance, or economics and marketing,” said Amir Ziv, vice dean of the Columbia Business School, during opening remarks. “But this is a different level of integration. This is integration between two schools that are very different in their nature. Actually they’re coming from two different universities…. They are in a completely different stage of their life and career.”

In addition to academic integration, there’s the involvement of luxury businesses. Approximately 30 luxury brands, nearly all of them household names, participate. There are a number of educational components to LEF but the main program is the “Master Class,” where teams of eight students (four from each school) are given a direct problem from one of the brands to solve for them. These are real life challenges and they work directly with the executive staffs of each luxury brand. It’s a semester-long program that culminates in the final presentation, such as the one held in December 2012 where teams of students presented solutions to problems proposed by luxury brands Hermès, Van Cleef & Arpels, Pomellato, Loro Piana and Chanel.

LEF is certainly a group effort, but the person who makes this complex, convoluted engine hum is Sisti Maisonrouge. Her duties include designing the course, personally attending every meeting between the brands and students, teaching classes and choosing the Columbia MBA students who will participate and for which brand. She says her main job is making sure the brands, in particular the CEOs, put the work in.

“The reality is yes I work hard on it but I make the CEOs work harder than they ever thought they would,” the French native said. “The more time they give the more they will get back.”

Maisonrouge’s counterpart at Parsons, Jessica Corr, an assistant professor and a product design consultant who is new to LEF, selects students from the design school based on their skills. For example, the Hermès project required students with creative technological ability.

The final presentations for public viewing are 15-minute versions of approximately hour-long proposals that the brand executives saw. In addition to time constraints, the reason for this is so brands can maintain an advantage over what Maisonrouge describes as their “friendly competitors.”

“What you saw is what I call the politically correct version,” she said.

The brand executives choose the topics or challenges for the students to solve but Maisonrouge “tweaks the problem” to ensure that everyone benefits. The students benefit through real life implication of what they learned in the program. The luxury brands benefit through the ideas generated from young consumers, particularly through the use of technology, and they gain a better understanding of what young consumer expect from a luxury brand. 


An image from the Hermès presentation titled, "The Living House."
Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

For the Hermès presentation titled, “The Living House,” one of the challenges the students faced was how to make entering an Hermès store a less intimidating experience. The answer they presented was to use technology to engage pedestrians. They built a storefront window with handprints that looked as if they were created by light or frosted glass. This invited pedestrians to place their hand over the handprint. Doing this activated a holographic image of a Hermès craftsperson at work behind the window.

“They come up with many things that we never thought of and that’s what’s so refreshing and rewarding,” said Robert Chavez, Hermes USA president and CEO, who has been involved with the program since the beginning. “I thought it was just genius. I give them a lot of credit.”

He said during the course of the semester, there were about five meetings with the students. The initial presentation where they receive in-depth knowledge about the brand and a “rough guideline of the general theme,” then follow up meetings to determine the progress.

“We don’t really have input into their presentation,” Chavez said. “What we do is we guide them. They ask us a lot of questions and we’ll answer all of their questions. We always let them do the actual presentation themselves. What they come up with are their ideas and concepts.”


The Van Cleef & Arpels team presenting their pitch. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

For Van Cleef & Arpels, it was the first time they participated in the program. The brand asked the students to come up with a marketing strategy for a new bridal line for the U.S. market.

“The entire process from choosing an engagement ring to walking down the aisle is a very sociological process and one that varies even within cultural subsets by age,” Nicolas Bos, CEO Van Cleef & Arpels Americas. “The opportunity to work with students was particularly intriguing because this is a generation who consumes incredible amounts of information from all different types of media in virtual real-time; who are both influenced and influencers within their social and familial networks.”

Bos said the brand had five meetings with the students and spent a great deal of time educating them on the history of the brand. Bos said the students “got it” almost immediately.

“What was especially surprising and exciting about the student team was their capacity to work at a very fast pace, to understand our Maison and values in the space of not only the luxury world but also the fine jewelry world, and their agility moving forward quickly through the project without delays or confusion,” he said.

The team developed a story telling strategy that focused on two-way communication between the brand and customer. “Where Van Cleef could reach into their rich history and tell their stories to the customer, but also hear from the customers themselves and take those stories on board,” one of the team members said during the presentation.

The story they told was the love story of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef who married in 1896 and established the first Van Cleef & Arpels boutique on Place Vendôme 10 years later. They presented as a video with music in storybook form but it is designed to be used for all media purposes. They also used the story in a window display at the Van Cleef New York boutique.

The second part of the strategy is a call for the general public to present their love stories through Facebook. The winner will receive a free trip to Paris to have a custom ring designed at the Place Vendôme boutique.

“While this information is historically a part of who we are and why we are here, the students’ reactions to and inspiration from this information reinforced this story of love, family and legacy, to reposition it from unique backgrounder to impactful messaging points—particularly as it pertains to the bridal market,” Bos said.

In others words the students were able to bring a new perspective to a timeless love story.


Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Timepiece Tuesday: Christie’s, Patek Philippe, Tag Heuer, Ulysse Nardin, Breitling, Philip Stein and Oprah


Christie’s Sets Record for Watch Sales Led by Patek
With its final auction of the fall season on December 14 in New York, Christie’s International wrapped up a record-breaking year for fine and rare watches that realized $91.2 million in total sales—the highest annual total ever achieved for watches by the global auction house. Every watch sale hosted at Christie’s salerooms in Dubai, Hong Kong, Geneva and New York achieved sell-through rates above 90 percent by value. The top watch of the year was a Patek Philippe Reference 1527 manufactured in 1943 that sold for a record $5.7 million at Christie’s Geneva (pictured). In fact, it was great year for Patek Philippe, as the top seven watches sold in 2010 and the top nine out of ten watches sold for the year by the auction house were from the Swiss luxury watch brand. Christie’s top four Patek watches sold for more than $1 million. “We have welcomed in a wealth of new collectors to this field in the past year, and witnessed an exponential growth in buyer participation from Asian countries, led primarily by mainland China and Hong Kong,” said Aurel Bacs, international head of Watches at Christie's. “At the same time, established collectors from the private, trade and institutional sectors in Europe and the U.S. continue to add great depth and strength to this category.


TAG Heuer, Parsons, Name Watch Design Winners
TAG Heuer and Parsons The New School for Design today unveiled the winners of the “Art of Watchmaking,” a 10-week competition that charged eight teams of Parsons product design students with reinterpreting TAG Heuer's classic Monaco chronograph. Each member of the three teams will receive a monetary prize and a Tag Heuer timepiece. In addition, TAG Heuer has the potential to produce one of the first-place designs as a limited-edition piece. During the review, each of the student teams showcased three concepts, and discussed their inspiration, target consumer and design philosophy. Ideas ranged from a Monaco with a rotating case to designs inspired by the New York City transportation system. First-place honors went to the team of Yong Yi Lee, Yoav Menachem and Amit Ran, whose designs included numbers to appeal to collectors (top photo); second-place honors went to the team of Enrique Diaz Rato de Zabala, Michelle Organ and You Jin Sung, whose designs included a black ceramic timepiece with neon accents (second photo); and third-place honors went to the team of Yusuke Sekiguchi, Christopher Beatty and Helen Kim, whose designs included a piece with naturally grown crystals in its dial (third photo). Read more about the design competition here and here.


Ulysse Nardin Opens First U.S. Boutique, Announce Plans to Build U.S. Headquarters
Ulysse Nardin, opened its flagship boutique in the United States at the Boca Raton Town Center Mall on December 16 with a ribbon-cutting ceremony and celebration attended by more than with 400 people, including famed baseball pitcher Randy Johnson. The luxury watch brand partnered with Bobby Yampolsky of East Coast Jewelry to open its first boutique in the U.S. The nautical-inspired store has more than 80 of the brand’s timepieces, including three models from the limited edition Boutique line. Following the ribbon cutting ceremony, Ulysse Nardin announced plans to open a 7,000 square foot U.S. headquarters in Boca Raton in the spring of 2011. This facility will be the company’s only repair center in the U.S. and will include up to 10 fully Swiss-trained watchmakers. The Swiss company manufacturers 20,000 watches per year, priced from $5,900 to $1 million.


Philip Stein is an Oprah Favorite
The Limited Edition 25th Anniversary Oprah Watch by Philip Stein was featured on the Oprah Winfrey Show's recent episode of “Oprah’s Favorite Things.” It was third time the Miami, Fla.-based watchmaker and retailer was featured on the annual Favorite Things show. However, it is the first time the company designed a watch just for the show. The signature dual dial watch has an applied silver letter “O” celebrating the television star, philanthropist and businesswoman. Philip Stein designers carried the theme further with applied silver numbers “2” and “5” commemorating Oprah’s 25th anniversary. Limited quantities of the 25th Anniversary Oprah Watch, available in a diamond style with a total carat weight of more than one carat, and a non-diamond style, are being offered to the public through select retailers and online. and interchangeable straps. Each watch comes packaged in a custom designed box featuring the Oprah 25th Anniversary logo.


Breitling Opens First U.S. Boutique
Swiss luxury watch brand Breitling opened its first U.S. store in New York on East 57th Street. Breitling watches retail from $1,000 to $300,000, and 90 of the brand’s latest models will be available for purchase at the store.