Being Interviewed by Mark Patterson Jewelry

Mark Patterson Jewelry is an award-winning company with a great deal of success over the years as jewelry creator under its own brand and for its collaborations with jewelers like Tiffany & Co. The firm is founded by Mark and his wife, Josette. 

Mark, a goldsmith and jeweler, crafts the pieces while Josette, a designer, sculptor and painter, is the vision behind the company who creates many of the designs. 

The company is best known these days for its bridal jewelry. However, Mark says his first love is colored gems and in recent years he has returned to his passion creating a variety of pieces that use colored gems and ideas taken from his travels around the world. 

Josette’s vision for the company goes beyond designing and branding. In 2011, she started a blog where she interviews others in the industry who have blogs. Recently it was my turn to be interviewed. 

I spend so much of my time interviewing others that it always seems a bit awkward for me to be the one answering questions. Josette made it a pleasant experience and you can read the results by following this link. 

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Luxury Jeweler Buccellati Begins A New Chapter

Sketches of Buccellati's new solitaire engagement ring, which will be unveiled in March.

The Italian high jewelry house, Buccellati, is undergoing a rebranding effort in an attempt to present a more contemporary image. It includes the company’s first-ever engagement ring line; a high-tech, high-jewelry introduction; a redesigned logo; and something new in the watch category that is “top secret.” 

The focal point of this change is the promotion of its youngest family member, Lucrezia Buccellati. The 24-year-old recently began working as the company’s fourth-generation designer. She will be sharing the design duties with her father, Andrea, in creating new jewelry collections. She explains that it’s a tradition in the fiercely independent family firm that two generations of the family create the designs. Her promotion came about when her grandfather, Gianmaria, in his mid-80s, recently announced his retirement.

“Now it’s my dad and me, before it was my grandfather and father. Always two generations in the design part. That’s how it works,” she recently said inside Buccellati’s cream-colored boutique on Madison Avenue in New York. “I step now in his chair. It’s a continuation of the generation. I think it’s a big challenge, there’s a little bit of pressure. You never know if it’s going to work, you’re young and it’s your first step in this world. It’s wonderful that there is somebody next to you to help you out like my father.”

In another sign of changing times at Buccellati, Lucrezia is the brand’s first female designer. She thinks this will influence future designs.

“I think that females have a different point of view than men,” she said. “Men think of an ideal woman. A female definitely thinks of a woman as someone more attached to fashion and art and what’s going on in the world around her.”

The family members were tight-lipped when discussing the new products, as they prepare for a March unveiling, but they did provide some details. 

The engagement jewelry collection is the first Buccellati line Lucrezia co-designed with her father. She said the rings are based on a more contemporary version of rings already available in the company's "honeycomb" pattern, perhaps the best-known of all of the jewelry-making techniques used by the company. It is appropriate because the pattern is similar to the Tulle netting technique for fabric often used for veils. In order to create the honeycomb shape, an artisan uses a labor-intensive and time-consuming technique of sawing pentagon-shaped holes with a fine blade.

The fine, net-like patterns will be enhanced with a center stone, which is what their clients want, according to Maria Cristina Buccellati, another member of the firm and Lucrezia’s aunt.

“The way we are used to seeing the solitaire is fine, but we wanted to add a touch of Buccellati so we created a round center stone with more workmanship,” Maria Cristina said. “We realized that a lot of people say they like this as an engagement ring but it doesn’t have a center stone so we designed a special collection with this kind of workmanship with this style and with a center stone.”

The high-tech introduction will be a one-of-a-kind iPad and iPhone cover. This was Lucrezia’s solo project. She said it will be “the most expensive and exclusive iPhone and iPad cover in the world.” It will include diamonds and signature gold engraving techniques. However, she promises it will be more refined and elegant than similar blinged-out products that are available. Leonardo DiVinci is the inspiration behind the design.

The company will also unveil a redesigned logo, as early as March, as part of year-long effort to make the brand appear more contemporary and attract a younger clientele. 

The one thing that won’t change is the craftsmanship behind Buccellati’s 18k jewelry. The company works exclusively with a stable of nearly 300 artisans throughout Italy who are skilled in a specific technique of making jewelry. Most are family shops, like Buccellati, that hand down their craft to the next generation. Because of this, the company only produces one-of-a-kind or extremely limited-editions of their pieces. It produces approximately 4,000 pieces per year, which includes its handmade silver objects (which the company also is known for) and watches.

For example, to create a one-of-a-kind collection using a particular kind of antique filigree technique (which involves delicate beading or threading of precious metal), the company had to go to Sardinia to find a family firm who still did this kind of work.

These are family firms that share the same value for craftsmanship as Buccellati, Lucrezia said.

“We know them all (personally) and we know their families,” she said. “You grow together. We learn from them and they learn from us. Our treasure for us is not the jewelry. Our treasure is our artisans."

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Blue Nile Q3 Sales Up 10.1%, Net Sales Total $2.9 Million

Blue Nile, Inc. said Thursday that net sales increased 10.1% year-over-year to $98.9 million for the third quarter ended September 29. Operating income for the quarter totaled $2.5 million, representing an operating margin of 2.5% of net sales. Net income for the period totaled $2.9 million (compared with $1.7 million in the third quarter of 2012) or $0.23 per diluted share.

Non-GAAP adjusted EBITDA for the quarter totaled $4.6 million. 

"These results demonstrate once again that our strategy is working. Our third quarter sales increase of 10.1% is on top of 19.8% in the prior year and is our sixth consecutive quarter of double digit growth," said Harvey Kanter, president and CEO of the diamond and jewelry online retailer. 

Blue Nile's Board of Directors authorized the renewal of the company's share repurchase program. It has the authority to repurchase up to $100 million of its common stock over the next two years. 

Third quarter financial highlights for the Seattle-based company include the following:

* U.S. engagement net sales increased 7.1% to $57.9 million.

* U.S. non-engagement net sales increased 9.6% to $23.9 million.

* International net sales increased nearly 23% to $17.1 million. Excluding the impact from changes in foreign exchange rates, international net sales increased 27.6%.

* Gross profit totaled $18.7 million. As a percent of net sales, gross profit was 18.9% compared to 18.8% for the third quarter of 2012. 

* Selling, general and administrative expenses were $16.2 million, compared to $14.3 million in the third quarter of 2012. These expenses include stock-based compensation expense of $1.2 million, compared to $1.3 million for the third quarter 2012.

* Earnings per diluted share included stock-based compensation expense of $0.06 for the third quarter 2013 and for the third quarter 2012.

At the end of the third quarter 2013, cash and cash equivalents totaled $47.9 million.

In its outlook, Blue Nile said it expects fourth quarter net sales to be between $146 million and $161 million. Earnings per diluted share are projected at $0.37 to $0.46.

For the year, the company said it expects net sales to be between $450 million and $465 million with earnings per diluted share are projected at $0.84 to $0.93.

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Blue Nile Chairman to Step Down As Company Posts 5th Consecutive Quarter of Double-Digit Growth

Blue Nile Starlight Diamond Eternity Ring in platinum

Blue Nile, Inc. said Thursday that year-over-year net sales increased 18.7 percent to $108 million for the second quarter ended June 30. Operating income for the quarter totaled $3.4 million, representing an operating margin of 3.2 percent of net sales. Net income totaled $2.2 million, or $0.17 per diluted share. It’s the fifth consecutive quarter of double-digit growth, the company said.

In addition, the Seattle-based online retailer that specializes in diamonds and diamond jewelry announced that its founder, Mark Vadon, will step down from his role as chairman and director of the board effective December 31. Blue Nile President and CEO Harvey Kanter will assume the role of chairman.

"Founding and being a part of Blue Nile for the past 14 years has been a great honor, and I am tremendously proud of the entire team for fostering our culture of innovation and obsession over each and every customer," Vadon said. "After working with Harvey and his leadership team over the last year and seeing the impressive growth trajectory of the business, the entire board and I feel confident passing the chairmanship to Harvey to continue to build a global consumer brand."

"Mark revolutionized the diamond industry and founded Blue Nile on the principle that there is a better way to buy diamonds and fine jewelry by offering unique online tools, high quality diamonds, and incredible values," Kanter added. "That is and will always be his legacy, and the company will continue to execute his vision."

Non-GAAP adjusted EBITDA for the quarter totaled $5.5 million. For the trailing 12-month period ended June 30, net cash provided by operating activities totaled $26.1 million compared to $18.7 million for the prior 12-month period. For the same period ended June 30, non-GAAP free cash flow totaled $22.9 million, as compared to $15.6 million for the prior.

Other second quarter highlights include:

* U.S. engagement net sales increased 22 percent to $63.9 million.

* U.S. non-engagement net sales increased 11.3 percent to $27 million.

* International net sales increased 19.1 percent to $17.1 million. Excluding the impact from changes in foreign exchange rates, international net sales increased 20.6 percent.

*Gross profit totaled $20.1 million. As a percent of net sales, gross profit was 18.6 percent compared to 18.9 percent for the second quarter of 2012.

* Selling, general and administrative expenses were $16.7 million, compared to $14.9 million in the second quarter of 2012. This figure includes stock-based compensation expense of $1.3 million for the second quarter in 2013 and 2012.

* Earnings per diluted share included stock based compensation expense of $0.07 compared to $0.06 for the second quarter of 2012.

* At the end of the quarter, cash and cash equivalents totaled $47.3 million.

In its financial guidance, Blue Nile said it expects third quarter net sales are expected to be between $96 million and $100 million; and earnings per diluted share to run from $0.13 to $0.17.

For the 2013 fiscal year, net sales are projected to be between $440 million and $470 million; and earnings per diluted share are projected at $0.75 to $0.85.

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Jeff Cooper Unveils Bridal Jewelry App

Bridal jewelry designer, Jeff Cooper, has introduced an app for iPhones and iPads that allows brides-to-be the opportunity to virtually try on the company’s designs. It’s now available through the iTunes App Store.

For those looking for bridal rings, the app allows future brides to go through the inventory of Jeff Cooper to virtually try on rings, allows for photo sharing and connects them with an authorized retailer.

The mirroring function puts the jewelry on the person in real time. While trying on, customers can click on the pricing icon, compare similar and matching items, and watch a product video.

For David Cooper, president of Jeff Cooper, the app brings the company’s jewelry directly to more people.

“We're excited to be bringing our designs to an even wider audience,” he said.

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Jean Dousset Finds Niche with Custom Diamond Engagement Rings

Jean Dousset in his showroom next to a portrait of great-great grandfather, Louis-François Cartier.

In the luxury jewelry world, pedigree means something and there are few who can claim to be a descendent of Louis-François Cartier, the founder of one of the world’s most renowned jewelry and watch brands. Jean Dousset, owner of Jean Dousset Diamonds can make this claim.

However, the French born jeweler didn’t rest on his Cartier name recognition. He worked his way through stints at some of the best known French high jewelry houses in the world, beginning at the epicenter of French style, Place Vendôme, with Chumet. This was followed with stops at Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels before first going on his own with an online jewelry business in 2005. 

The Eva cushion engagement ring.

In 2010, he opened a showroom on the edge of Beverly Hills, Calif., on Santa Monica Boulevard. About half of his work comes through the store and the rest is done online through his website. In 2012, he produced approximately 70 rings, mostly engagement, which is his specialty, although he does other custom pieces as well. What may a bit surprising is that his inspiration for creating a custom high jewelry business was Blue Nile. He said the success of the online diamond and diamond jewelry company left a void in the business of provide service oriented high jewelry.

“Blue Nile was whole selling diamonds and they were really offering mountings as a must but not really as a message of design,” he said sitting behind an antique desk inside his showroom. “So I thought that might be an interesting void to fill … offering design, branding, craftsmanship, service.”

Whether he is working with clients in person or online the process is the same. He personally selects three diamonds through his dealers and then explains to the client the strong points of each stone. The clients select which diamond they prefer then he creates the mounting using his drawings and builds them from scratch. Again, the client will have their choice of mountings to select. If it’s online he’ll shoot high-definition videos of the diamonds and mountings for the client to view. 

The Riviera cushion engagement ring.

“The biggest thing now is people are highly educated about diamonds. They understand diamonds by browsing the Internet. There’s a lot of resources and that is great. They do their due diligence. They know what the 4Cs are,” he said. “They come with a certain amount of knowledge. The four Cs are trade guidelines to define the price of diamond ... but they do not say anything about the beauty of a diamond. The beauty of a diamond comes from its cut. The way the rough is taken down to a polished stone. So if you put four stones with the exact same cut, say four cushion cuts same price, same 4Cs there will be one stone that will be much more desirable. That’s the stone I’m looking for.”

He continued, “I work backward through their budget because it’s essential. Prices vary so much we need to know what people feel comfortable spending for their ring. So they share that with me and I try to optimize that budget to deliver them the best 4Cs but most importantly the most beautiful cuts. And that’s just a matter of taste and experience. That’s the way for me to distinguish myself from everybody else. I work very hard at that. And I also want to make that the cornerstone my reputation.”

In addition to his specialization in engagement rings, custom design and personal service; he also works primarily with cushion-cut diamonds of approximately 2-carats. He does so because round diamonds have largely been commoditized by Blue Nile and other similar mass marketers and thus makes it easy for people to buy their own stones once they are educated. 

The Victoria cushion engagement ring.

“I’m big on cushions, again, because of the Internet. It’s very hard to compete on round diamonds,” he said. “Because of the cut distinction and finesse of selecting a (cushion-cut diamond), there’s really an argument for me to make for people to work with me and trust me in making that search for them. It would be incredibly difficult for anybody to find a great cushion by themselves without knowledge, without experience just by looking at the 4Cs. If they are not exposed to what a great cut is, then they just don’t know what to look for so my hope is once I present them with my taste, my selection of stones, then they can benchmark anything they see to that.”

He said his focus is on engagement rings because that is the foundation of the jewelry business.

“You have to start with what truly creates the original idea of jewelry, which is a man and woman is buying something that’s significant and the engagement ring is just that,” he said. “It is still the core message of even the bigger brands … but the truth is that today the bridal business, those big famous brands, do not cater to that market. It’s too time consuming for them. There’s not enough profit in it. But they must still advertise and create bridal collection, because that’s where it all begins.”

He hopes to grow into other areas but he doesn’t seem to be in a hurry. He is more interested in differentiating himself in the marketplace, creating a place that few occupy. His traditional French high jewelry training makes this type of business a natural fit for him. He says in his own small way he wants to give his customers the same quality and service of the French luxury jewelry houses but do it in a more casual way and do it with an emphasis on value.

“On the rooftop of Place Vendôme, each of the jewelers have 25 or 30 hands working (ona piece of jewelry). They all have very distinct and specific responsibilities. There’s woman who is outstanding at polishing pieces with cotton strings…. All of this is to deliver the kind of product that they do. So I’m humbly in my own means, trying to incorporate as many of those steps into how I work. It’s a decision I made that I want to stick with to really establish those cornerstone values. Well-crafted and well-made jewelry doesn’t have to be expensive. It’s how much you really care about delivering a really outstanding product. Handcrafted jewelry is about people who are skilled, experienced, with a desire to execute really well. That is something I feel very strongly about.”

Jean Dousset Diamonds, 10100 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90067

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Danhov Adds Floral Patterns to its Bridal Jewelry Designs

LAS VEGAS — Taking his cue from New York Fashion Week, where floral patterns was one of the main inspirations for many of the designs, Khajag "Jack" Hovsepian, the founder and head designer of bridal jewelry brand, Danhov, introduced a collection that is all floral inspired.

The company, founded in 1984, moved to a consumer brand two years ago and has grown quickly to now have approximately 50 retail outlets. All the jewelry is hand-made or hand constcuted at the company’s Los Angeles headquarters. No moulds are used in the process. His booth at the JCK Luxury tradefair was humming with eager retailers wanting to stock up on his designs.

The Petalo line of platinum and 18k white gold bridal jewelry has intricate carvings of tulips, sunflowers and other flora throughout the engagement and matching wedding bands. No matter which way the rings face, it provides a delicate appearance of a flower. The engagement rings retail for about $4,000, not counting the center stone.

Blue Nile: ‘Man Up’ and Say ‘I Do’

Blue Nile is fed up with mamby pamby men who are afraid of commitment. To revive the chivalrous spirit of yesteryear, the online diamond and jewelry retailer, is throwing down the gauntlet, asking, “Are You Man Enough to Say ‘I Do’?” The man who tells the ultimate story of masculinity will receive the company's assistance to do the manliest thing of all: Step up, take a knee, and earn his place by her side. The Grand Prize includes:

* A Blue Nile diamond engagement ring valued at up to $7,500,
* First-class airfare to New York City,
* Accommodations including hotel stay, dinner for two, transportation, $1,000 in spending money, and
* A proposal, live in front of the world, at the NASDAQ open on Friday, November 25.

What earns such a virile prize? How about Odysseus' quest to return to Penelope. Or, Dante's nine-circle descent to be worthy of Beatrice. Alternately, contestants may pen their own epic or post a video explaining what they would do to earn the perfect proposal. Blue Nile says examples may include:

* Wrestling a wild boar whilst wearing a ham necklace.
* Reciting the 100,000-verse Indian Sanskrit Epic, Mahabharata, backwards.
* Abstaining from an entire season of football (excepting the Super Bowl).

“Are You Man Enough to Say ‘I Do’?" is hosted on Blue Nile's Facebook page. Submissions are collected until 3:00 p.m. (PST), November 4. The top five stories will be displayed for public voting during the week of November 7. At the end of that week, the top vote earner will win the Grand Prize.

All entries are displayed anonymously to ensure those wanting to surprise their future fiancés with a proposal are still able to do so. 

Below is a tongue-and-cheek video by Blue Nile about the promotion:

Blue Nile Q2 Sales Up 5.1%, Net Income Up 1.3%

Online diamond and jewelry retailer, Blue Nile, Inc., reported Thursday that net sales increased 5.1 percent, year-over-year, to $80.5 million, a record second quarter sales level. Net income totaled $2.8 million, up 1.3 percent.

Despite the growth in revenue, increasing diamond and precious metals prices as well as weak consumer sentiment has had a negative impact on sales, particularly in its traditional bridal jewelry market. Growth for the period came from “non-engagement” jewelry, such as less-expensive colored-gemstone jewelry, and international sales, which grew 40.7 percent to 12.8 million, Diane Irvine, Blue Nile CEO said Thursday during a conference call with investors and the press. The Asia-Pacific region grew 100 percent to $5 million. Excluding the impact from changes in foreign exchange rates, international sales increased 29.7 percent.

Diamond prices increased 20 percent during the past year, Irvine said. Round diamonds experienced the largest price hike, rising 40-percent since last year. As an example, Irvine said a 1-ct. round diamond which cost $6,000 a year ago costs $9,000 today.

“While we delivered record second quarter sales and non-GAAP adjusted EBITDA, our results were impacted by rapidly rising diamond and metal prices amid a weakening consumer environment in the U.S.,” Irvine said in a statement. “Despite these external headwinds, we achieved sales growth across all product categories, including double-digit sales growth in the non-engagement category. We also experienced strong growth in our international business. In addition, we generated higher gross margins for the quarter and achieved our earnings per share stated guidance while investing in marketing and our international business.”

Operating income for the period, ended July 3, totaled $4.3 million, representing an operating margin of 5.3 percent of net sales.
Non-GAAP adjusted EBITDA for the period, ended July 3, totaled $6.9 million. For the trailing 12-month period, ended July 3, net cash provided by operating activities totaled $33.4 million compared to $24.1 million, year-over-year. For the same trailing 12-month period, non-GAAP free cash flow totaled $28.7 million.

Gross profit for the quarter grew 6 percent to $17.2 million. As a percentage of net sales, gross profit was 21.3 percent compared to 21.1 percent for the second quarter of 2010.

In its outlook, Blue Nile says that it expects net sales to be between $71.5 million and $74 million for the third quarter, ending October 2. Irvine, said during the conference call, noting the company is being cautious in its forecast because of rising prices and weak consumer sentiment. She added that the third quarter is usually the slowest month for bridal jewelry because there are no holidays during this period. But also said it is the period where the company’s margins are often the highest.

Blue Nile Launches the 'Ring It. Sing It.' Contest

Online diamonds and fine jewelry retailer, Blue Nile, Inc., has launched a two-part online engagement contest. The winning couple will hold their proposal at NASDAQ headquarters in New York while serenaded by Josh Jenkins of Green River Ordinance and singer/actress Katharine McPhee.

The “Ring It. Sing It.” contest also will provide 11 winning couples with a one-of-a-kind song about their love written and performed by pop-rock band Green River Ordinance and an Infinity Love Knot Pendant from Blue Nile.

Green River Ordinance

The first part of the contest, “Ring It.,” launched Tuesday and will culminate with a live proposal at NASDAQ on November 29, known as Cyber Monday, the launch of the online holiday shopping season. Blue Nile, who is ringing the “Opening Bell” to mark the day, will provide the couple with an all-expenses-paid trip to New York and the groom-to-be with a custom diamond ring for the proposal. Green River Ordinance lead singer Josh Jenkins will serenade the couple in a live, acoustic performance of the band’s hit song “Endlessly,” and Katharine McPhee will perform “It's Not Christmas Without You” from her recently launched holiday album, Christmas is the Time To Say I Love You. The proposal will take place at 9:30 a.m. and will be broadcast live in Times Square.

Winners of the weekly “Sing It.” portion of the contest will have their love story put to music. Green River Ordinance will serenade the couple with a personalized song performed and recorded using ooVoo, a video communication service, to share with friends, family and the world via social media.

To learn more about the "Ring It. Sing It." contest and to register, visit http://www.facebook.com/BlueNile. The "Ring It. Sing It." contest is open to all U.S. residents ages 18 and older. "Ring It." entries will be accepted until November 15. Submissions for “Sing It.” began this week and must be received by Sunday of each competition week.

Anna Paquin Weds in 50-Ct. Diamond Necklace

When True Blood actress Anna Paquin married her co-star, Stephen Moyer, Aug. 21, she wore a 50-ct. diamond necklace by Neil Lane, People magazine reports.

The round diamonds were set in darkened metal for a patina vintage style. “She wanted something with a vintage-inspired, romantic vibe,” Lane told People. Paquin, 28, also wore a pair of diamond studs from Lane.

People also reports that the wedding bands for both Paquin and Moyer were designed by Cathy Waterman.

Photo: People magazine

Neil Lane Creates Bridal Collection for Kay Jewelers

Jewelry designer Neil Lane and Kay Jewelers will launch the Neil Lane Bridal, a line of 36 vintage-inspired engagement and wedding rings. Each ring is designed by Neil Lane and hand crafted, assembled, and finished by skilled artisans, with diamonds that were hand selected by Kay.

The rings are grouped in the following themes: Energy, Timeless, Essence, and Harmony. Prices range from $2,599 - $7,799. The collection is available at select U.S. Kay Jewelers stores and online at kay.com.

Neil Lane’s work is seen on film, television and music icons at red carpet events and celebrity weddings on some of the world’s most influential women.

Kay Jewelers, the number one jewelry store in America, is located in malls and off-mall shopping centers across the country. Kay Jewelers’ parent company, Akron, Ohio-based Sterling Jewelers Inc., operates 1,431 stores in all 50 states and employs more than 21,000 team members. Sterling Jewelers Inc. is the U.S. division of Signet Jewelers Ltd., making it part of the largest specialty jewelry retailer in the world.

Mark Schneider’s New Bridal Designs

 Charmed

Award-winning jewelry designer Mark Schneider introduced several new bridal designs during the Couture jewelry show in Las Vegas. The collection of the diamond engagement rings is available in 14k and 18k white gold and in platinum.

 Delicate

Schneider’s bridal designs have won numerous awards over the years. The company's headquarters is in Long Beach, Calif. 

 Honey

Below are some more images of the new collection:

 Innocence                             Kindle

Orchid