Kashmir Sapphire Sets Record, Jackie O’s Van Cleef Rubies Fetch $302,000, Spanish Royal Brooch Failed To Sell

Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond ear pendants owned by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis

It was a busy evening at at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale held Wednesday. The auction of 341 lots were led by statement diamonds, gems with exceptional origins and natural pearls. However, there were downsides as an historically significant and highly touted Spanish royal brooch was among the 23 percent of lots that did not sell.  

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis ruby ring

One of the most anticipated lots in the sale was Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ ruby ear clips by Van Cleef & Arpels and a ruby ring. The items sold as a set for $301,959. The jewels were a wedding gift from Aristotle Onassis in 1968. Each ear pendant top is designed as an openwork pavé-set diamond leaf, suspending a detachable cabochon ruby and brilliant-cut diamond cluster pendant. The ring is centered by a heart-shaped cabochon ruby within a brilliant-cut diamond surround to the pavé-set diamond shoulder.

The top lot of the sale was a 5.18-carat rectangular-cut Fancy Vivid Pink diamond on a ring (pictured above) that sold for just over $10.7 million (more than $2 million per carat). The gem was set in gold within an oval-shaped diamond surround. This was followed by a 55.52-carat pear shaped D-color, Flawless diamond that sold for just over $9 million. 

Colored gems of exceptional origins continue to show its strength. A cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire ring of 35.09 carats (pictured above) sold for a world auction record price of $7.35 million ($209,689 per carat). A cushion-shaped Burmese ruby ring of 30.20 carats sold for $3.4 million ($112,850 per carat). 

A late 19th century single-strand natural pearl necklace, measuring approximately 11.1 to 7.8 mm, sold for more than $3.8 million. 

Historic Maria Christina Royal Devant-de-Corsage brooch that failed to sell

At the other end of the spectrum, the historically significant Maria Christina Royal Devant-de-Corsage brooch was pulled from the auction. It had an estimate of $1.5 to $2 million. The brooch was presented as a wedding gift in November 1879 from King Alfonso XII of Spain to his wife, the Archduchess Maria Christina of Austria, soon to be Queen Consort and then Queen Regent of Spain. The brooch, which was highly touted by Christie’s before the sale, is part of the collection belonging to Baroness Thyssen-Bornemizsa.

The auction of 341 lots realized more than $97.5 million, with 77 percent of items sold by lot and 81 percent sold by value. 

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Hutton-Mdivani Jadeite Necklace Fetches World Record $27.4 Million

For once diamonds wasn’t the top seller at a major jewelry auction.

A Cartier jadeite bead, ruby and diamond necklace owned by Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton sold for more than $27.4 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Auction. The sale set world auction records for a Jadeite jewel and for a Cartier jewel, the auction house said. It was also sold for more than double its estimate of HK100 million. 

The item was purchased by The Cartier Collection, which acquires its most precious jewels and exhibits them around the world. 

The piece is composed of 27 graduated jadeite beads of what the auction house describes as “highly translucent bright emerald green color,” completed by a clasp set with caliber-cut rubies and baguette diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold. The jadeite beads run from approximately 19.20 to 15.40mm.

The necklace was presented as a wedding gift to Hutton from her father, Frank Winfield Woolworth, on the occasion of her marriage to Prince Mdivani, Sotheby’s said. It was first worn publically by Barbara Hutton at her 21st birthday party, and remained in the Mdivani family for over five decades until it was first sold at auction in 1988 for $2 million, which at the time was considered to be the most expensive piece of jadeite jewelry in the world. Six years later in 1994 it was offered at auction again in Hong Kong, this time selling for $4.2 million.

Sotheby's called the piece the “greatest jadeite bead necklace of historical importance.”

Two more auction records were set in Hong Kong. 

The “Red Emperor,” Burmese ruby and diamond necklace by high jewelry designer James W. Currens for Fai Dee sold for more than $9.9 million—a world record for a ruby and diamond necklace sold at auction. Fai Dee is a Hong Kong company that specializes in acquiring and cutting Burmese rubies.

The graduating fringe necklace is set with 30 heart-shaped and 30 pear-shaped “Pigeon’s Blood” rubies weighing 104.51 carats. Between each ruby are brilliant-cut, pear-shaped and oval diamonds together weighing approximately 59.05 carats, mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold. 

A 29.62-carat oval Burmese ruby and diamond ring, mounted by Cartier sold for more than $7.3 million, setting a world record for a ruby sold at auction. The stylized platinum mount for the ring is set with brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.50 carats.

The three pieces were among the highest sellers at the auction, which took in more than $106.6 million, with 82.2 percent of the items sold by lot and 80.6 sold by value. 

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‘Pigeon’s Blood’ Ruby Necklace Leads Diverse Christie’s Hong Kong Jewelry Sale

CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

It’s a rare jewelry auction these days where diamonds are not the most prestigious items for sale. This auction will break the trend as leading the sale of Christie’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels Autumn sale is a Burmese no heat “pigeon’s blood” ruby and diamond necklace (pictured above) with matching earrings (below) by James W. Currens. The necklace has an auction estimate of $3.5 to $5.5 million; and the earrings have estimate of $2.5 million to $3.5 million.

CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

Designed as twenty-six graduated oval-shaped rubies weighing between 5.38 and 1.27 carats, each ruby comprising the necklace named, “Red Scarlet” is accented by a cluster of marquise and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold. The matching pair of earrings are titled the “Red Butterflies” for their shape, and each feature a pair of Burmese rubies over 7 carats. The rubies all come from the Mogok Stone Tract in Upper Burma, which is considered to be the source for the finest quality “pigeon’s blood” rubies, the term used to describe the brightest and most valuable red color for rubies.

More than 300 items will be on sale for the November 27 auction at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. The pre-sale estimate is valued at approximately $70 million. An assortment of diamonds, emeralds and sapphires from the world’s legendary mines, natural seawater pearls, and, being Hong Kong, jadeite jewelry will be among the items featured. Highlights include: 

Emerald, pearl and diamond earrings in platinum, featuring Colombian pear-shaped emeralds weighing 23.34 carats and 23.18 carats. Its estimate is $3.5 million to $4.8 million. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

Diamond and pearl earrings, featuring a pair of 6-carat pear-shaped diamonds from the legendary Golconda mine in India. Its estimate is $1.2 million to $1.9 million.  CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

A natural pearl and diamond necklace with an estimate of $1.2 million to $1.5 million. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

A lavender jadeite bead necklace, consisting of 63 slightly graduated jadeite beads measuring from 8.8 to 11.3 mm, and a jadeite cabochon and diamond clasp mounted in 18k white gold. Its estimate is $1 million to $1.5 million. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

A 36.58-carat fancy brown diamond ring with an estimate of $1 million to $1.5 million. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

An 8.59-carat fancy pink cut-cornered rectangular-cut diamond and sapphire ring, by Paris-based American jeweler, JAR. Its estimate is $3 million to $4.5 million. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

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JAR Diamond Ring, 6-Carat Burmese Ruby and Jade Necklace at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction

JAR three-diamond ring. Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

The upcoming Christie’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels sale is turning out to be something special in the quality and quantity of the items for sale. As previously reported, the May 29 sale at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, will have the largest round fancy intense pink diamond to ever appear at auction and a 11.85-carat D VVS1 potentially flawless round brilliant-cut diamond—both with Harry Winston pedigree. But there’s more.

The 1:30 p.m. sale, in the Woods Room of the convention hall, will include a three-diamond ring from JAR, a 6-carat, pigeon’s blood Burma ruby and diamond ring, and being Hong Kong, a superb jadeite bead necklace. The auction will also include natural pearls, Burmese sapphires, Colombian emeralds, rare period pieces, and selection of signed contemporary jewels.

The ring from JAR is set with three diamonds. They are a 10.67-carat D color, internally flawless, oval-shaped diamond at its center, flanked by two D color, internally flawless diamonds of 6.07 and 6.04 carats. The estimate is $2.5 million – $3.5 million. Perhaps the world’s most influential jewelry designer, Joel Arthur Rosenthal, along with his Swiss business partner, Pierre Jeannet, founded JAR in 1977. It is housed discreetly in an apartment boutique on Place Vendôme in Paris, only accepting clients by appointment. The one-of-a-kind and often made-to-order JAR creations are sought after by clients around the world and their appearance on the auction market marks an important event for collectors.

Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

Also among the highlights of the auction is a 6.04-carat Burmese ruby and diamond ring by Etcetera (pictured above) with an estimate of $2.5 million – $3.8 million. This no heat cushion-shaped stone possesses the most desirable “pigeon’s blood red” color and an extraordinary degree of transparency. Burmese rubies over 5 carats, particular those gems that have not undergone any thermal enhancement are extremely rare.

Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

Another item that will attract the attention of bidders is a jadeite bead necklace (pictured above) with an estimate of $3.2 million - $4.5 million. “Evenly and strongly saturated, each of the jadeite beads featured in this necklace exhibits the optimal combination of color, translucency and texture,” Christie’s says. “The beads display a vivid emerald green color with a desirable tone that is neither too dark nor light. Their fine texture and excellent glass-like translucency only bolsters the rareness of such high-quality material, resulting in one of the most anticipated jewels offered at auction this year.”

Golconda Diamond Ear Pendants to Lead Christie's Hong Kong Jewelry Sale

Imperial Cushions: Pair of 23.49 ct. and 23.11-ct. Golconda diamond ear pendants

A pair of ear-pendants with diamonds from the legendary Golconda mines will be offered at Christie's Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels Sale on May 31. Known as the Imperial Cushions, the 23.49 cts. and 23.11 cts. D potentially flawless Golconda type IIa diamond ear-pendants has a presale estimate of $7 million to $10 million.

Besides the exceptional size and quality of the diamonds, the ear-pendants are fashioned in a cushion shaped cutting style as a perfectly matched pair. The pair of stones is “as rare as you can possibly find,” the international auction house said. “While the diamonds do not actually come with an imperial provenance, the quality, workmanship, size, and rarity are of a caliber worthy of a royal collection.”

The Golconda mines were renowned for the diamonds they produced. Among the legendary diamonds taken from the mines in the region surrounding the ancient ruined city of Golconda in south-central India, is the Darya-e Nur, meaning sea of light, at 185 carats (37 g), the largest and finest diamond of the crown jewels of Iran. Other famous diamonds that are believed to come from the area are the Hope, Wittelsbach and Regent.

The upcoming auction at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre will offer close to 300 pieces of diamonds, colored gemstones and jadeite with a presale estimate exceeding $70 million.

Other diamonds highlights include a pair of 13.09-ct. and 12.86-ct. heart-shaped diamond ear pendants with very good polish and symmetry with a presale estimate of $3 million to $4.5 million. The Type IIa, D color with internally flawless clarity diamonds are the largest pair of this quality ever to appear at auction, according to Christie’s.

Another important diamond is an un-mounted 18.88-ct. D color, flawless clarity brilliant-cut, type IIa diamond with a presale estimate of $3.2 million to $5 million. It comes with a Gemological Institute of America certificate.

All three diamonds, as previously mentioned, are of Type IIa quality. These types of diamonds are of the most chemically pure, lacking in nitrogen which therefore yield exceptional optical transparency. These diamonds represent less than 2 percent of the world’s production.

The spring sale also offers a range of important sapphires from top sapphire producing regions, including Kashmir and Burma.

Of note is a pair of 14.84-ct. and 13.37-ct., cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphires and diamond ear pendants with a presale estimate of $2.6 million to $3.8 million. The “cornflower blue” color is a hallmark of Kashmir sapphires. This rich blue is distributed throughout the stones. They possess a high clarity with a superior degree of transparency. The combination of all these characteristics is rare in natural Kashmir sapphires of this size, Christie’s said.

Among the ruby highlights is a pair of 5.23 cts. and 5.13 cts. oval-shaped Burmese ruby and diamond ear pendants with a presale estimate of $1.7 million to $2.5 million. They exhibit a well-saturated color combined with a pleasant cutting style, Christie’s said.

For pearl lovers, the sale includes a three-stranded necklace composed of 143 white natural pearls with lustrous quality. It has a presale estimate of $1.2 million to $1.8 million. The pearls measure from 2.5 to 12.8 mm, spaced by diamonds, with a suspending drop-shaped natural pearl.

A jewelry auction in Hong Kong wouldn’t be complete without Jadeite. The top piece being offered is a ring set with a 13.5mm thick double cabochon perfectly rounded on both sides. “In spite of its thickness, this precious cabochon is of exceptional translucency and purity, with even green tone and without any trace of impurities,” Christie’s said. Its pre-auction estimate is $770,000 to $1 million.

Sotheby’s Sees Red in Upcoming Hong Kong Jewelry Auction

1.92-carat VS2 fancy red diamond ring.

China now has 115 billionaires, according to Forbes magazine, and it appears Sotheby’s is making every possible effort to attract these super-rich residents as well as other high-net-worth individuals from the Asian countries with its Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale 2011 in Hong Kong.

The international auction house is presenting a display of colored diamonds, colored gemstones, jadeite and luxury jewelry from several periods for its April 6 sale at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre—promising that buyers will be seeing plenty of red. The sale will offer 329 lots, with an estimated value of more than $60 million. (All prices are in U.S. dollars and don’t include the buyer’s premium.).

“This auction provides a colorful variety for Asian and global collectors who have discerning taste for truly exceptional gems,” said Quek Chin Yeow, Sotheby’s deputy chairman and head of its jewelry department.

Despite all the color, the top two lots of this sale are expected to be for white diamonds. The first is a pair of D color internally flawless diamond pendent earrings totaling 36.48 cts. by Harry Winston (left), each suspending a pear-shaped diamond weighing over 14 cts., surmounted by an oval diamond weighing 4.01 cts., all D color and internally flawless (auction estimate $4.1 – 4.8 million).

This is followed by a 25.50-ct. brilliant-cut unmounted D-color flawless diamond (auction estimate $3.8 – 4.8 million) with excellent cut, polish and symmetry and Type IIa chemical purity (left). 

 

The third big item being offered is a jadeite bead necklace (Est. $3.8 – 4.5 million) comprising 53 graduated fine natural jadeite beads of luscious translucency, imperial emerald green color and great consistency. Measuring approximately 12.36 to 9.92 mm, the necklace is further adorned with a clasp set with rubies, sapphires and diamonds.

The Hong Kong auction is introducing what it calls the “Red Sale,” led by three stunners. The first is a 1.92-carat VS2 fancy red diamond ring (top picture). It is among the most unusual and rarest color in diamonds, Sotheby’s said. Few red diamonds exist in the world, most are of SI or below in clarity and rarely weigh more than 1 carat (auction estimate $2.5 – 3 million).

Next is a 27.67-ct. Burmese ruby and diamond ring from Bulgari (left). The auction house says its “pigeon’s blood” color “is the largest gem-quality unheated Burmese ruby from the legendary mines of Mogok, famous for producing the world’s best rubies to appear at auction in recent years.” Rubies exceeding 10 carats without thermal enhancement are extremely rare and are irreplaceable as the mines no longer produce rubies of such a significant size and quality (estimate $1.5 - 2.5 million).

Finally, there’s a Burmese ruby and diamond necklace, and pair of matching pendent earrings, totaling 29 rubies weighing 75.56 cts. (left), also from the Mogok mines (estimate $1.4 - 1.9 million).

The top colored diamond being offered is a 12.72-ct. pear-shaped internally flawless fancy pink diamond and diamond ring by Indian jewelry designer Nirav Modi (Est.$3.2 – 4 million). Also featured in the sale is a 25.26-ct. fancy vivid yellow diamond and diamond ring (Est. $1.7 - 2 million); and a 1.13-ct. fancy vivid yellowish green diamond ring (Est. $500,000 – 580,000).

Colored gemstone offerings are led by a 23.19-ct. Brazilian cat’s-eye alexandrite on a diamond ring (Est. $1.3 – 1.6 million). The color changes from reddish purple in incandescent light to bluish green in daylight (pictured left). This combined with a well-centered and pronounced chatoyancy (or cat’s-eye effect), makes the gem is extremely unusual and among the finest to exist in the current market in both quality and size, Sotheby’s said.


 
Other natural gemstones include a 29.20-ct. Burmese sapphire and diamond ring ($400,000 – 600,000) and a pair of 9.10 and 8.56-ct. Burmese sapphire and diamond earrings ($190,000 – 230,000), both natural, unheated and of noble “Royal Blue,” color, the most desirable in Burmese sapphires, Sotheby’s said. In addition, there’s a pair of 10.73 and 9.52-ct. Colombian emerald and diamond pendent earrings (pictured left) with natural untreated Colombian emeralds ($800,000 – 1 million).

Chinese and Chinese inspired jewelry designs include a 7.31-ct. cushion-shaped F-color diamond, amethyst and pink Sapphire ring, by renowned Hong Kong contemporary jewelry, Wallace Chan (Est. $85,000 - 120,000). Another highly sculptural piece is a diamond and gem-set “Azalea” solstice cuff by Cindy Chao (pictured left). Centering on a 7.02-ct. fancy light yellow diamond, the bangle is modeled as a blooming azalea and adorned with diamonds and gemstones of more than 30 colors, together weighing approximately 124 carats (Est. $150,000 – 190,000). There’s also the "endless-cut" diamond bangle by Nirav Modi (Est. $60,000 – 80,000), weighing approximately 16.80 cts. (pictured left) It features Modi’s signature diamond cutting and setting technique known as “Enigma setting.” It requires diamonds of a particular shape substantially different from ordinary diamond cuts. The result is an endless ring of brilliance, without beginning or end.

Classic period jewels include a Burmese ruby and diamond “Foliage” bracelet from Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1959 (Est. $400,000 – 480,000), made of natural and unheated Burmese rubies weighing approximately 29.60 cts. and diamonds weighing about 20 cts., mounted on a lithe and graceful bracelet that curls naturally around the wearer’s wrist (left). There’s also a Kashmir sapphire and diamond clip brooch from Cartier London (Est. $50,000 – 60,000). The Art Deco creation centers on a 3.04-ct. hexagonal natural unheated Kashmir sapphire, surrounded by sapphires totaling approximately 7.50 cts. 

Then there’s a Jadeite “Huaigu” ruby and diamond necklace and pair of matching pendent earrings by American jewelry designer Carvin French, circa 1996. The Chinese-inspired suite comprises 33 highly translucent jadeite “huaigus”—one of the most iconic forms in traditional Chinese jewelry – each centering on a cabochon ruby. The necklace is accompanied by pendent earrings each set with two jadeite “huaigus” (Est. $490,000 – 640,000).

Finally, there’s a pair of Jadeite “8” and diamond pendent earrings (Est. $320,000 – 380,000), of vivid emerald green color and outstanding translucency. The number 8 is an auspicious symbol in traditional Chinese culture that bestows good fortune upon its wearer.