Happy Holidays

 

Snowflake earrings from JAR. All the best for you and your loved ones this holiday season.

A Look Inside the ‘Jewels By JAR’ Met Museum Exhibition

The darkened JAR exhibition space. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

While stumbling in the dark bumping into other journalists (not literally but close) during the press preview of the “Jewels by JAR” exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a common theme emerged. It changed how they view jewelry. The room was dark, the jewelry (art works really) glowed in the orange and red display cases and dazzled nearly all who saw them.

Orange Peel Brooch, 2001; Garnets, diamonds, enamel, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

One prominent jewelry writer told me she doesn’t think she can ever wear jewelry again after seeing the 400 pieces on display. My lovely wife, who gets to view a lot of jewelry because of my work, no longer bothers to look at pieces that she now views as inferior.

Three Seashell Brooches, From top: Oriental pearls, diamonds, platinum, silver, gold; private collection, 2006. Spinels, rubies, silver, gold; private collection, 1990. and Spinels, diamonds, silver, gold; private collection, 2009. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco 

That’s the thing about viewing jewelry (or anything) that is truly unique as those created by Joel A. Rosenthal, who of course is the man behind JAR. It increases your knowledge of a subject. It increases the possibilities of what can be done with a strong philosophy and dedication to that core value. It changes how you view everything. It can even redefine the things you value.

Rose Brooch, 2013; rubies, sapphires, spinels, diamonds, silver, gold; private Collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Not everyone got it. One person whom I know well came up to me in the dark and said she didn’t understand why the room had to be darkened. She didn’t get the jewelry. She didn’t understand how someone with absolutely no pedigree in the luxury jewelry world can suddenly move to Paris, set up shop at Place Vendôme, perhaps the world’s most famous shopping district, and gain such a reputation among the world’s wealthiest and most demanding jewelry buyers.

Lilac Brooches, 2001–2; diamonds, garnets, sapphires, aluminum, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

These are all fair questions that I’ve wondered about. It is unlikely we will ever get an answer. Rosenthal rarely gives interviews. He agreed to give a select few interviews for the exhibition, which opened Wednesday, including one with Vanessa Friedman of the Financial Times. She observed that Rosenthal pretty much does “what he wants, when he wants, for who he wants,” makes others in the creative professions envious. However, she added, “It is hard to know the kind of sacrifices it really demands.”

Snowflake Brooch, 2002; diamonds, platinum, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

There was something that Rosenthal said in that interview that struck me.“I don’t care what the world thinks of me. But do I care, very deeply, what the people I care about think.”

This to me is an expression of the sacrifices he has made, his loyalty to those who has helped him achieve his vision, and how he feels about those who told him his concept of jewelry design as art would never work.

Five-Row Diamond Necklace with Pendant Ring, 1999; diamonds, platinum; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

In the darkness of the room with the glow of lights from the displays, I had no idea how my photographs would come out. I'm happily surprised.

The retrospective of Rosenthal's 35-year career as the head of JAR will run till March 9, 2014.

Five Wild Rose Brooches, 1991; Oriental pearls, rubies, sapphires, amethysts, garnets, citrines, diamonds, platinum, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

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Bow Knot Brooch, 2012; diamonds, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Ribbons Bracelet, 1990; diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Top: Moon and Stars Pendant Earrings, 2011; sapphires, diamonds, silver, gold; private collection. Bottom: Pendant Earrings, 2011; sapphires, diamonds, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Wall of butterflies. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Pendant Earrings, 2012; zircons, diamonds, platinum; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Drop Pendant Earrings, 2012; diamonds, platinum, silver; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Sheep's Head Brooch, 1997; sapphires, aluminum, gold; Suzanne Syz. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Top: Owl Brooches, 2011; fire opals, aluminum, gold; private collection. Bottom: Swan's Head Earrings, 1987; diamonds, coral, sapphires, steel, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

From left: Pendant Earrings, 2010; spinel, Oriental pearl, diamonds, rubies, platinum; private collection. Elephant Brooch, 1987; agate, Oriental pearls, diamonds, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Lily of the Valley Brooch, 1991; Oriental pearl, diamonds, platinum, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Oak Leaf and Acorn Earrings, 1990; Wood, gold; Susan K Gutfreund. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Necklace, 2005; diamonds, ribbon, silver, gold; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Pendant Earrings, 2013; chalcedony, diamonds, platinum, gold; Private collection. This is one of JAR's latest creations. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Tulip Brooch, 2008; rubies, diamonds, sapphires, garnets, silver, gold, enamel; private collection. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Handkerchief Earrings, 2005; diamonds, silver, gold; private collection.  Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

You Can Buy JAR Jewelry at Metropolitan Museum Exhibition

La Dame Aux Gardenias (The Invisible Flower of Madame X), white resin & 18k clip earrings, $4,000.

As I previously promised, I have the photographs of jewelry by Joel A. Rosenthal, better known to jewelry lovers across the globe as JAR, that he created specifically for the exhibition, Jewels By JAR, which opens Wednesday at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and runs till March 9, 2014. They are available for purchase exclusively at the museum.

Carnaval à Venise red titanium earrings with gold Venetian glass, $2,000.

The pieces include earrings made of resin, 18k gold over aluminum, titanium and Venetian glass ranging in price from $2,000 to $7,500. There are also two watches designed for the event that cost $600. These creations will be available exclusively at the Museum through the close of the exhibition. These are not limited edition pieces but they are numbered.

Tickle Me Feather clip earrings, 18k over aluminum, $7,500.

The exhibition will be the first retrospective in the United States of JAR’s work and the first retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum devoted to a contemporary artist of gemstone jewelry. It is only the second time his pieces were available to be seen at an exhibition, with the first being in London in 2002.

JAR watches in two styles, $600 each. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Born in New York and educated at Harvard, Rosenthal moved to Paris soon after graduation and began to experiment with jewelry making. He opened JAR in 1978 on the Place Vendôme, in the same space he occupies today.

Carnaval à Venise black titanium earrings with gold Venetian glass, $2,000.

“JAR jewels became known for their unique design, the exquisite quality of the gemstones, and their remarkable craftsmanship—but above all for their fearless beauty,” the museum said in a statement. “Rosenthal’s one-of-a-kind creations place him among the ranks of history’s greatest jewelers.”

Tickle Me Feather violet clip earrings made of resin and 18k gold, $4,000.

The exhibition is described by the museum as a retrospective of his work for the 35 years he’s been designing jewelry under the JAR name. The exhibition of 400 works, mostly from private collections, presents a rare glimpse into the work of JAR and the museum store provides a rare opportunity to buy one of his pieces. 

View my write up of the exhibition by clicking this link. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Jewels By Jar, a Dazzling Display of Darkness and Light

Butterfly Brooch, 1994; Sapphires, fire opals, rubies, amethyst, garnets, diamonds, silver and gold; Private collection. Photograph by Katharina Faerber. Courtesy of JAR, Paris

Jewelry is supposed to sparkle, glitter and glow. Joel A. Rosenthal, better known as JAR, also says it should “flicker,” which is why in his last exhibition, held in 2002 at the Somerset House in London, he requested that his jewelry be seen in the dark aided only by tiny flashlights.

Multicolored Handkerchief Earrings, 2011; Sapphires, demantoid and other garnets, zircons, tourmalines, emeralds, rubies, fire opals, spinels, beryls, diamonds, platinum, silver, and gold; Private collection. Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris.

Those visiting the Metropolitan Museum of Art for the landmark U.S. exhibition of Jewels By Jar won’t be asked to do anything drastic this time. However, in a museum bathed in light, the space dedicated to JAR is in darkness, with the exception of the spotted glow of jewelry displays.The designer who creates gemstone jewelry on the highest level is known for his fearlessness in his vision and in using a variety of jewelry techniques to create one-of-a-kind pieces for his private clients.

Colored Balls Necklace, 1999; Rubies, sapphires, emeralds, amethysts, spinels, garnets, opals, tourmalines, aquamarines, citrines, diamonds, silver, and gold; Private collection. Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris.

The exhibition, which opens Wednesday and runs till March 9, 2014, is the first US viewing of jewelry by the famed and famously reclusive jewelry artist. The exhibition will be the first retrospective in the United States of his work and the first retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum devoted to a contemporary artist of gems.

Raspberry Brooch, 2011; Rubies, diamonds, bronze, silver, gold, and platinum. Collection of Sien M. Chew. Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris.

The press preview Monday at the museum was my first opportunity to see JAR jewelry pieces in the flesh and it didn’t disappoint. The 400 pieces on display, nearly all lent by private collectors, represent 35 years of designing jewelry at the highest level.

Lilac Brooches, 2001; Diamonds, lilac sapphires, garnets, aluminum, silver, and gold; Private collection. Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris.

It’s obvious that Rosenthal isn’t a just a jewelry designer but an artist. In brief words during the press preview Monday, Jane Adlin, the exhibition curator, was a bit more specific, describing him as a sculptor.

Poppy Brooch, 1982; Diamond, tourmalines, and gold; Private collection. Photograph by Katharina Faerber. Courtesy of JAR, Paris

“I think Joel is best known for his technique of pavé. He’s discriminating but indiscriminate in his use of gemstones,” Adlin said. “So he’ll mix very, very fine perfectly cut, perfectly flawless gemstones with some that are not. He will use lesser quality stones. He will use lesser-known stones. But the outcome is this extraordinary piece of jewelry, which if you just put it on your dresser or your coffee table it would in fact be a piece of sculpture.”

Bracelet, 2010; Diamonds, silver, and platinum; Private collection. Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris

That’s probably the best way to look at the works of JAR. From the time of the Greeks, great sculptors are able to take a subject and create a more perfect vision of it. That’s part of Rosenthal’s skill and expertise. For example, his flowers and animals, in addition to being precise, seem to be more perfect than what nature intended. He can create texture with jewels, such as his colorful handkerchief earrings in which one has a fold. And, as previously mentioned, there’s his exemplary use of pavé combined with exceptional colors from the many types of gems he’ll use for a single piece. He treats metals the same way in his pieces as it ranges from gold, platinum and titanium to silver and aluminum.

Earrings, 2011; Emeralds, oriental pearls, diamonds, and platinum; Private collection. Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris.

His 1994 butterfly brooch (one of many he created over the years) may be the best example of all of his sculptural attributes. Like many of his pieces it’s a combination of multiple materials. In this case sapphires, fire opals, rubies, amethyst, garnets, diamonds, silver and gold. Colors include different shades of violet, red, orange, yellow, blue and green with specks of white. Micro pavé is used throughout. In some cases there’s clear separation of color, in other parts of the creature, the colors seem to blend together.

Zebra Brooch, 1987; Agate, diamonds, a sapphire, silver, and gold; Private collection. Photograph by Katharina Faerber. Courtesy of JAR, Paris.

The mystique of JAR is enhanced by the man himself. Rosenthal is famously private. The New York native who lives and works in Paris has rarely given interviews although he did agree to a select few for this exhibition. The window of his store on Place Vendôme, perhaps the most famous luxury shopping district in the world, is often blank or showing a single object unrelated to jewelry design, such as a twig. The customers who are fortunate enough to enter his chambers get singular treatment and leave, eventually, with unique pieces of art created just for them.

Tulip Brooch, 2008; Rubies, diamonds, pink sapphires, garnets, silver, gold, and enamel; Private collection; Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris.

His eccentricity was apparently on display during the preparation of the Met exhibit. To the disappointment of many Rosenthal wasn’t present at the press preview with staff saying he is “shy.”

But we did get a bit more detail of the man behind JAR from Jennifer Russell, Metropolitan Museum associate director for exhibitions.

“Joel is passionate, he’s opinionated, he has a very definite point of view about almost everything, from what he’s going to eat for lunch to how the show should be arranged,” she said. “But he listens too and it’s been a wonderful dialogue in deciding how things should be arranged and discussing the exhibition in general.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

Met Museum to Sell Exclusive Jewelry Designed by JAR

JAR Lilac Brooches, 2001; diamonds, lilac sapphires, garnets, aluminum, silver and gold. From a private collection. Photograph by Jozsef Tari, courtesy of JAR, Paris.

To coincide with highly anticipated Jewels by JAR exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the museum has announced that the famous jewelry artist has created a small collection of jewelry for the exhibition that will be available for purchase. 

The items include eight pairs of earrings and two watches ranging in price from $2,000 to $7,500. These pieces will be available exclusively at the Museum through the close of the exhibition. 

The museum, probably at the request of the renowned jewelry designer, will not have photographs available of the items for sale until November 18. The picture above will be one of the pieces in the exhibition and not for sale at the Special Exhibition and Mezzanine Gallery Shops. 

The exhibition Jewels by JAR will run from November 20 through March 9, 2014. The exhibition features more than 400 works by Joel A. Rosenthal, who works in Paris under the name JAR. Jewels by JAR is the first JAR retrospective in the United States and the first at the Metropolitan Museum devoted to a contemporary artist of gems.

Born in New York and educated at Harvard, Rosenthal moved to Paris soon after graduation and began to experiment with jewelry making. He opened JAR in 1978 on the Place Vendôme, in the same space he occupies today. 

“JAR jewels quickly became known for their unique design, the exquisite quality of the gemstones, and their remarkable craftsmanship—but above all for their fearless beauty,” the museum said in a statement. “Rosenthal’s extraordinary, one-of-a-kind creations place him among the ranks of history’s greatest jewelers.” 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

‘Pigeon’s Blood’ Ruby Necklace Leads Diverse Christie’s Hong Kong Jewelry Sale

CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

It’s a rare jewelry auction these days where diamonds are not the most prestigious items for sale. This auction will break the trend as leading the sale of Christie’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels Autumn sale is a Burmese no heat “pigeon’s blood” ruby and diamond necklace (pictured above) with matching earrings (below) by James W. Currens. The necklace has an auction estimate of $3.5 to $5.5 million; and the earrings have estimate of $2.5 million to $3.5 million.

CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

Designed as twenty-six graduated oval-shaped rubies weighing between 5.38 and 1.27 carats, each ruby comprising the necklace named, “Red Scarlet” is accented by a cluster of marquise and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold. The matching pair of earrings are titled the “Red Butterflies” for their shape, and each feature a pair of Burmese rubies over 7 carats. The rubies all come from the Mogok Stone Tract in Upper Burma, which is considered to be the source for the finest quality “pigeon’s blood” rubies, the term used to describe the brightest and most valuable red color for rubies.

More than 300 items will be on sale for the November 27 auction at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. The pre-sale estimate is valued at approximately $70 million. An assortment of diamonds, emeralds and sapphires from the world’s legendary mines, natural seawater pearls, and, being Hong Kong, jadeite jewelry will be among the items featured. Highlights include: 

Emerald, pearl and diamond earrings in platinum, featuring Colombian pear-shaped emeralds weighing 23.34 carats and 23.18 carats. Its estimate is $3.5 million to $4.8 million. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

Diamond and pearl earrings, featuring a pair of 6-carat pear-shaped diamonds from the legendary Golconda mine in India. Its estimate is $1.2 million to $1.9 million.  CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

A natural pearl and diamond necklace with an estimate of $1.2 million to $1.5 million. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

A lavender jadeite bead necklace, consisting of 63 slightly graduated jadeite beads measuring from 8.8 to 11.3 mm, and a jadeite cabochon and diamond clasp mounted in 18k white gold. Its estimate is $1 million to $1.5 million. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

A 36.58-carat fancy brown diamond ring with an estimate of $1 million to $1.5 million. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

An 8.59-carat fancy pink cut-cornered rectangular-cut diamond and sapphire ring, by Paris-based American jeweler, JAR. Its estimate is $3 million to $4.5 million. CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2011

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Web site.

Harry Winston 'Martian Pink' Diamond Sells for $17.4 Million

Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

The largest round fancy intense pink diamond to ever appear at auction sold for $17.4 million at Christie’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels sale Tuesday.

Known as the “Martian Pink,” the extremely rare 12-ct. diamond was owned by a private collector. It was purchased from Harry Winston in 1976—the same year, the United States launched its first satellite on a mission to Mars: The Viking Landers. Ronald Winston named the diamond to honor the historic event. It sold for approximately $1.5 million per carat. Its estimate was $8.4 million to $12.3 million. The diamond is mounted on a size-7, 18k gold ring.

Other significant diamonds sold at the auction include:

* A pair of brilliant-cut unmounted diamonds, weighing 10.88 and 10.88 carats, sold for $4.8 million. Both diamonds are of D color, flawless clarity, with excellent cut, polish and symmetry.

Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

* A three-diamond ring from JAR sold for $2.9 million. It consisted of a 10.67-carat D color, internally flawless, oval-shaped diamond at its center is flanked by two D color, internally flawless diamonds of 6.07 and 6.04 carats. The estimate was $2.5 million – $3.5 million.

Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

* A second large diamond with ties to Harry Winston, an 11.85-carat D VVS1 potentially flawless round brilliant-cut diamond, sold for just under $2 million, within its is estimate.

Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

* It was mostly diamonds that stole the show, but one other gemstone elbowed its way into being one of the top items sold Tuesday. A 6.04-carat Burmese ruby and diamond ring by Etcetera sold for $3.4 million, just within its high estimate. This no heat cushion-shaped stone possesses the most desirable “pigeon’s blood red” color.