Swatch Group Brands Prepare to Bring their 2014 Watches to Market

Breguet Celebrated "Tourbillon Day" at its Fifth Avenue boutique with a cake decorated as a tourbillon. 

In June Manhattan served as a final staging area as several Swatch Group brands held previews of their Baselworld 2014 releases. Most of the watches will appear on store shelves beginning September. However, some are already on sale.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797

Breguet had been the most creative in using this time by hosting Tourbillon Day on June 26 at its Fifth Avenue boutique. Press members and VIP clientele were treated to a cake decorated as a tourbillon movement; champagne toasts; and a display of the brand’s most important tourbillon watches, including its 2014 Baselworld releases. The company even brought in Nakis Karapatis, Breguet’s head of Research & Development, to present a lecture on the history and function of the tourbillon.

Blancpain One Minute Flying Carrousel and Moon Phase

The celebration was created just last year by the luxury watch brand to commemorate the day that the brand’s founder and namesake, Abraham-Louis Breguet, patented the tourbillon on June 26, 1801. The invention (whose name translates as “whirlwind or “whirlpool”) was intended to compensate for the errors and fluctuations in functioning due to gravity and the natural changes in a watch’s position. It is prized by watch collectors not only for its functionality but for its beauty, particularly when exposed on a dial.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Paillonné Enamel

I’ll leave the argument of whether a tourbillon is a complication for another day.

Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date 

If all this tourbillon talk has your head spinning, wait till you read about the carrousel movement. It may look like a tourbillon and act like a tourbillon but it’s different, according to Adam Bossi, Blancpain US brand manager. He spoke at a press lunch a week before the Swatch event at the outdoor rooftop lounge of the Nomad hotel in Manhattan, where its new Baselworld novelties were presented. Like the tourbillon, the carrousel counteracts and neutralizes the effects of deceleration and acceleration of the balance wheel caused by the gravitational pull of the Earth. However, while a tourbillon consists of a rotating carriage; a carrousel consists of a platform on which the balance wheel and its bridge go round like a wooden horse on a merry-go-round, the reason for its name. Bossi said.

Longines Equestrian Lépine

Bossi also provided some details of the new Blancpain New York boutique, set to open at anytime now. Be prepared for some high-tech imagery and interactive displays.

Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar

In the morning of the same day that Breguet had its celebration, luxury watch brands Jaquet Droz and Glashütte Original held a joint press breakfast at Lincoln Center for the reason of presenting its Baselworld 2014 collection.

Breguet Reine De Naples Princesse 8968 Ladies

Tissot was also quite busy in June, opening a new dedicated display (also known as a “shop-in-shop”) at the Toureanu TimeMachine store at 57th and Madison Avenue. It highlights Tissot’s new advertising campaign and its Baselworld 2014 introductions, getting a head start on many other brands.

Blancpain Off-Centered Hour Ladies

However, few watch brands were busier during the month of June (and May for that matter) than Longines, which was a presence at each leg of horseracing’s “Triple Crown,” as the official timekeeper and official watch for the world’s most celebrated horseracing series. The watch brand released a number of models at Baselworld, including one commemorating other equestrian events it supports.

Longines Elegant Collection Ladies

So here’s a final look before you’ll be able to see these releases in stores around the world.

Tissot T-Touch Lady Solar

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Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Circled Ladies 

Glashütte Original Pavonina White Gold Ladies 

Harry Winston Buys World’s Largest Flawless Vivid Blue Diamond For $23.8M and Names it ‘The Winston Blue’

Meet “The Winston Blue,” considered the world’s largest known flawless vivid blue diamond. Harry Winston purchased the sparkling gem for nearly $23.8 million at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale. At nearly $1,800 per carat, the price per carat paid for the 13.22-carat stone represents a world record for a blue diamond.

It is the second major diamond purchase by Harry Winston since it was acquired by the Swatch Group, one of the world’s largest watch and jewelry conglomerates. Last year, Harry Winston purchased a 101.73-carat colorless diamond for a world record $26.7 million ($254,400 per carat), at Christie’s Geneva jewelry auction.

The Winston Blue was easily the top lot of Wednesday’s auction, which realized more than $154.1 million, with 85 percent sold by lot and 94 percent by value. It achieved the highest total ever for a Jewelry sale in auction history, beating the Christie’s New York December 2013 Elizabeth Taylor jewelry sale, which totaled $137.2 million over a two-day period. The other top lots included:

* Belle Epoque diamond Devant-de-Corsage brooch, by Cartier that sold for more than $17.5 million. 

* A 75.97-carat pear-shaped D color, flawless diamond that sold for more than $14.4 million.

* A 76.51-carat cut-cornered square-cut light pink, VVS1 diamond necklace for $10 million, a world auction record for a light pink diamond. by Leviev $130,712 per carat. 

* The “Ocean Dream,” A 5.50-carat triangular-cut fancy vivid blue-green, SI1 diamond that sold for more than $8.6 million, a world auction record for a blue-green diamond.

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Swatch Group Reports Record Sales For 2013 But Warns of Overvaluation of Swiss Franc

Swatch Group Ltd., the largest Swiss watch business, on Monday said year-over-year gross sales for 2013 increased 8.3 percent to 8.82 billion Swiss francs ($9.7 billion), far outpacing the 1.8 percent growth for the rest of the Swiss watch industry at the end of November. 

“This clearly indicates the gain in market share,” the company, which consists of 20 watch brands encompassing all market segments as well as luxury jeweler Harry Winston, said in a statement. “In production, specific capacities have been expanded and put into operation. Additional increases in capacity are either in the planning phase or already under construction.”

The company—which designs, manufactures, distributes and sells finished watches, watch movements, watch components, electronic systems and jewelry—said that excluding production, revenue increased more than 10 percent.

It also forecasts a “positive outlook” for 2014, which has already begun with a “strong start by all brands.” 

However, the company warns that that despite its robust growth and forecast, the ongoing over-valuation of the Swiss Franc, particularly against the US dollar and Japanese yen, is having a negative impact on its sales. For example, in the second half of the year, the company said the negative effect of currency exchange rates cost it more than 100 million Swiss francs ($110 million). Its electronics operation reported a decrease of 3.9 percent due to price pressures placed by the overvaluation of the Swiss currency.

Despite this negative currency situation, it expects good results for 2013 at operating profit and net income level. The Swatch Group’s key figures will be published at the latest on 20 February 2014. Publication of the annual report at a media and analysts’ conference on 20 March 2014 is planned.

The company, in its statement, didn’t address a December 30 fire that destroyed its ETA movement operation. These watch movements are among the most common in the industry. They are used to power watches from Swatch Group brands such as Blancpain and Longines and for many other watches used by their competitors. It previously had said it will slow the production of watches by many brands.

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Fire Destroys Swatch Group ETA Workshop

The Valjoux 7750 or ETA 7750 is a widely used chronograph movement.  Photo credit: Wikipedia

A Sunday morning fire completely destroyed the Swatch Group's ETA workshop in Grenchen, Switzerland, the company said in a statement. No one was harmed as the facility was not in operation. 

The fire broke out at approximately 8:45 a.m. at the galvanic department of the main building and was under control at 9:30 a.m., Swatch Group said. The fire did not spread to other buildings in the complex, which contain other Swatch Group watch production subsidiaries.

"Thanks to the swift and efficient intervention of the ETA-internal fireworkers and the fireworkers of the town of Grenchen, the fire could not expand to the neighboring workshops," Swatch Group said in its statement.

The reason for the fire is not yet known, Swatch Group said, adding that it's too early to place a price tag on the damage. Company officials did not say how this will impact production. Local police informed nearby residents due to the heavy smoke. 

ETA is a subsidiary of Swatch Group. It designs and manufactures mechanical and automatic watches and watch movements. It is best known as the supplier of the overwhelming majority of movements found in Swiss watches.

Swatch Group Ltd., Biel, Switzerland, designs, manufactures, distributes and sells finished watches, watch movements, watch components, electronic systems and jewelry.

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A ‘Shocked’ and ‘Disappointed’ Tiffany & Co. Ordered to Pay $450 Million to Swatch Group

A long, simmering dispute between two powerhouses in the luxury jewelry and watch world appears to have come to an end when a Dutch arbitration panel ordered Tiffany & Co. to pay 402 million Swiss francs ($450 million) to Swatch Group for breach of contract. In addition, a counter-claim by Tiffany & Co. was dismissed by the panel.

The dispute, which has been ongoing since 2011, was argued before the Netherlands Arbitration Institute, which provides a confidential way of resolving such disagreements. The result of the arbitration in Swatch’s favor was announced in a very brief statement by the watch company Sunday followed by a much longer statement filed with the Securities & Exchange Commission Monday morning by Tiffany. 

Tiffany cut its forecast for the year based on the ruling and it says it will continue to seek legal remedies.

“We were shocked and extremely disappointed with the decision of the majority of the arbitral panel,” said Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO, in the SEC statement. “We firmly believe the panel’s ruling is not supported by the facts of this case or the various agreements between the Swatch parties and the Tiffany parties. While we are reviewing our options with our legal counsel, I want to assure you that we do have sufficient financial resources to pay the full amount. We will record a charge for the after-tax impact of the award, which we estimate to be approximately $295 - 305 million, in the fourth quarter.”

In 2007, the two companies announced that they signed an agreement to produce and market watches under the Tiffany & Co. brand name. In September 2011, Swatch Group had terminated the collaboration for what it termed as a breach of contract and pressed claims for damages in December 2011 against Tiffany. In March 2012, Tiffany filed a counterclaim with the court of arbitration in charge.

The original agreement between the two parties was that Swatch Group—which produces, markets and sells watches under approximately 20 brands from the popular low-cost Swatch watch to the prestige and luxury brand, Breguet—was to design and produce watches under the Tiffany brand name. Those watches were to be sold through Tiffany stores around the world. Tiffany apparently didn’t think the watches created by Swatch fit their brand image. Swatch charged that Tiffany did little to market and sell those watches.

Tiffany noted in its statement that one of the three members of the arbitration panel issued a dissenting opinion and that the amount awarded reflects approximately 8.8 percent of the damages claimed by Swatch.

Tiffany, according to its statement, was also ordered to pay two-thirds of the cost of arbitration (approximately $800,000) and two-thirds of the cost of legal fees ($8.8 million).

 “We do not believe that the award will impact our ability to realize our existing business plans in the short or long term, and we are extremely pleased to be moving forward with our plans to design, produce, market and distribute our own Tiffany & Co. brand watches,” Kowalski said.

Kowalski said the payments will be made from cash on hand and funds available under its existing debt facilities. The company said that the charges associated with the award will reduce earnings per diluted share for the fiscal year ended January 31, 2014, to $2.30 - $2.35 from the guidance of $3.65 - $3.75, issued a month earlier.

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Swatch Group Sees Strong Growth Potential For Harry Winston

The Harry Winston salon in Paris.

The Swatch Group has big plans for the recently acquired Harry Winston brand, finding it an asset that is both complimentary and with plenty of room for growth.

The Swiss conglomerate on Tuesday for the first time partly revealed what it plans for the luxury retail brand during its earnings report for the first half of the year. The company, which now owns 20 watch and jewelry brand, said that gross sales for the period increased 8.7% year-over-year to 4.18 billion Swiss francs ($4.47 billion). Net income increased 6.1% compared to the first half of 2012 to 768 million Swiss franc ($821,700), with a 19.2% return on net sales. Sustained growth was reported in all regions.

“The continued integration of the Harry Winston brand will … make a significant contribution, as this brand has huge, almost untapped market potential in the high jewelry and watches activities,” the company said, adding that this potential will start to be seen in the second half of the fiscal year.

Swatch Group said that following its $1 billion acquisition of Harry Winston in March, the conglomerate invested in infrastructure, settled all debts, expanded its equity capital base and increase inventory. “The latter was initiated in order to ensure that our clientele has access to the best selection of jewelry as well as to increase its availability,” Swatch Group said in its earnings statement.

“The acquisition of the Harry Winston brand did more than simply round off the group’s already broad brand portfolio; it also expanded the high jewelry segment, along with the segment’s value chain from production up to and including the retail network,” Swatch added.

In May, Swatch Group, in Harry Winston’s name, purchased a 101.73-carat diamond at auction for $26.7 million and renamed it the “Winston Legacy,” explaining that it “reconfirms the number one position of this high jewelry brand.”

Swatch says that its see the luxury watch segment of the brand as having the best potential for worldwide growth.

“The Harry Winston brand has an extremely large and almost untapped potential in the watch sector, which the group now aims to expand further using its experience around the world,” the company said. “The necessary funds will also be invested into this activity.”

In fact, the acquisition led to some company restructuring by integrating the production division into the watches and jewelry business unit. “This integration will also provide a more uniform view of activities, facilitating comparability with our competitors.”

Other highlights of the company’s first-half report include:

• Benchmarked to the 1.5% export growth for wristwatches of the Swiss watch industry in the first half of 2013, the segment Watches & Jewelry (now including production) growth was more than 9%.

• An operating profit of 910 million Swiss francs ($973,500) was recorded, with an operating margin of 22.7%, despite a high marketing spend, important investments in products and production methods, and the integration of Harry Winston.

The company said its outlook “remains very promising,” expecting a strong second half. 

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Harry Winston and Swatch Group Pay $26.7 Million for 101-Ct. ‘Perfect Diamond’

The Swatch Group and HarryWinston are celebrating their new partnership with the purchase of a pear-shaped, D color, flawless diamond of 101.73 carats for more than $26.7 million at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels Sale Wednesday.

Billed by the auction house as the “perfect diamond,” the price paid set a world auction record for a colorless diamond. The diamond (which sold for $254,400 per carat) has been renamed “The Winston Legacy.”

“The acquisition of ‘Winston's Legacy’ underscores the brand’s continued commitment to perfection and quality at the highest level. A stone of this caliber and rarity is the perfect continuation of Mr. Winston’s legacy as the King of Diamonds,” said Nayla Hayek, the new CEO of Harry Winston.

Rahul Kadakia, head of Jewelry, Christie's Switzerland and Americas, added: “Harry Winston acquired the most perfect diamond ever offered for sale at auction, ‘Winston Legacy,’ continuing the tradition of buying and selling only the very best, a trait of the founder Mr. Winston himself.”

The diamond was the top lot in a sale that fetched a record-breaking $102.1 million, selling 86% by lot and 93% by value, the highest result ever for a various-owner jewelry auction at Christie’s. It included several world records for diamonds, pearls and sapphires. A total of 20 lots sold above $1 million with 147 buyers coming from 31 countries across five continents, Christie’s said.

Among the other notable purchases at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels Sale, are:

* 19.88-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire, named “The Star of Kashmir” sold for more than $3.4 million, or $175,202 per carat, breaking the world auction record for a per-carat sale of a sapphire.

* Single strand of natural pearls measuring from 13.7 to 10.4mm sold for more $8.4 million, setting a world auction record for a single-strand natural pearl necklace.

Drop-shaped natural pearl ear pendants of 261.66 and 216.37 grains sold for more than $2.4 million, setting a world auction record for a pair of pearl ear pendants.

* 1.92-carat fancy red diamond sold for $3.2 million, setting a world auction price for a red diamond.

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The Swatch Group Brands at Baselworld 2013 (including Harry Winston)

Harry Winston Opus XIII

The powerful presence of the Swatch Group was present like never before at Baselworld 2013, taking up a larger chunk of the renovated Hall 1.0, the most prestigious area at the show for the majority of its 19 watch brands, which span just about every segment of the watch industry.

In addition, the company, which also owns watch movement manufacturers and retail brands, hosted a separate museum-quality exhibition in Hall 2.0 for its Swatch timepieces; the brand that has been the most responsible for the company’s enormous success.

The newest brand under Swatch Group’s enormous umbrella, Harry Winston, still had its own space in Hall 1.1, as the $1 billion acquisition occurred in March, well too late  for Harry Winston to be folded into the other company holdings (perhaps next year).

Below are some of new releases from the seven brands in the group that I had the chance to visit during the eight-day tradeshow. I included Harry Winston as the company's new CEO, Nayla Hayek, was announced Friday.

Blancpain Carrousel, Minute Repeater and Chronograph
The Swiss luxury watch brand has created a fully mechanical watch that combines a one-minute flying carrousel (similar to a tourbillon) and a minute repeater with a flyback chronograph.

For the minute repeater, the blades of its cathedral gong wrap one and a half times around the movement to emit the sound. Its transmission is optimized by fixing the gongs inside the case, which increases volume and clarity. A flying governor reduces the background noise produced by the movement.

The pusher for the chronograph function with the flyback or instant-restart function (historically used by pilots) is located at 4 o’clock and enables the wearer to restart a time measurement while a first measurement is in progress.

The watch comes in a red gold 45 mm case with a chapter ring, a 30-minute and hour-markers in grand feu enamel. The open dial and sapphire crystal case-back provides in-depth views of this complex device.

Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727
Available in rose or white gold, the watch is fitted with the new in-house caliber 574DR, which has a balance frequency of 10Hz.thus, improving the time-keeping performance of the balance and spring. It is fitted with a double balance-spring, pallet lever and escape wheel, all in specially prepared silicon. The result is a regulating power equivalent to around 830 microwatts. Despite its high frequency, it has a power reserve of 60 hours.

However, Breguet says the major innovation of this model is the use of magnetic pivots, which not only controls the negative effects of magnetism in a watch, but also uses the magnetic force to improve the pivoting, rotation and stability of the balance staff.

The dial shows an off-center chapter of hours and minutes, small seconds at 12 o'clock, a power-reserve indicator at 5 o'clock and a tenth-of-a-second indicator at 1 o'clock having a patented lightweight silicon hand with low inertia that doesn’t affect the balance. The pare-chute is visible at 2 o'clock, both as a reminder of A-L Breguet’s 1790 invention and to make the timepiece slimmer.

The dial is engine-turned in six patterns: “Geneva waves” in the center, a hobnail pattern for the small seconds, sunrays on the tenth-of-a-second dial and chevrons for the power-reserve indicator. The hours chapter is cross-hatched while a barleycorn pattern decorates the outer edge. The hands are in polished steel with the Breguet open tip, while the case displays delicate fluting.

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator
This new timepiece unites the classic regulator display with an officially certified manual winding chronometer movement.

The dominant central position on the lacquered silver-grainé dial is the blue minute hand with its polished eye. On the central axis above and below the minute indicator are smaller hour and seconds displays.

The Glashütte Original panorama date display is placed at 3 o’clock. The date change takes place at midnight. From 6 in the morning until 6 in the evening, the small circle in the region of the hour display is white; from 6 pm until 6 am it is black. This timepiece is framed by a 42 mm polished case in red gold or a white gold version.

The watch is driven by the caliber 58-04, which permits the precise coordination of minute and seconds hands. A second-zero-stop-mechanism makes it is easy for the wearer to set the exact time. When winding the crown, the time display is stopped, the second hand jumps to zero and remains there. At the same time, the minute hand is also moved to the next full minute index. When one winds the crown to set the time, the minute hand always rests only on the full minute indices. This provides the correct relationship of the displayed seconds and minutes. A power reserve display at 9 o’clock indicates the energy remaining in the manual winding movement.

The watch is officially certified and bears a certificate from the German Calibration Service after a 15-day testing period.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator
The H-12 movement in this watch allows the separation of the minute and hour hands on  different axials and sub-dials. The idea is to make the watch more accurate and provide an easier way for the person who owns the timepiece to read the time. However, I think most people wear such a watch is because of the appearance. Add to this the blue or silver dial and you have watch that can be worn for casual or formal occasions. There are three 42mm timepieces in the collection. In addition to the dial choice straps come in either leather or stainless steel.


Harry Winston Opus XIII (top photo)
It was difficult to determine which of the many technically advanced and aesthetically pleasing timepieces from this luxury brand to show. In the end I chose the newest addition to its iconic Opus collection. Opus is the watch that introduced Harry Winston to the world as more than just luxury jeweler. Each year the brand works with gifted independent watchmakers to build a timepiece with the goal of defying the conventional rules of watchmaking.

This year the newest member of the Swatch Group created a watch where the minutes accumulate around a track. Eleven rotating silver triangles spring from a faceted dome to show the hours. Every 12 hours, Harry Winston’s logo is appears on the dial and vanishes after sixty minutes. The 59 minute hands pivot on a ring of steel shafts that are held in place by 242 ruby bearings.

The mechanical watch is powered by the in-house HW4101 movement, which has 364 components. The case is made of 18k white gold.

Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Eclipse
This newest version of the Eclispe line presents a new moon phase complication, which displays the cycles of the night of the sky on the dial, with the perpetual calendar complication. On the black or ivory-colored Grand Feu enamel dial, two straight hands contrast with the curves of two wavy hands, tipped with a crescent moon. The calendar information is easily read on several places on the dial: on the right is the date, on the left is the day of the week. At 12 o’clock, a single-hand counter indicates the month with the leap year appearing in a small window. At 6 o’clock, a black or ivory-colored onyx index moves across the face of a golden moon, revealing, and then concealing it until its total eclipse, unfolding on a night sky of eight golden stars, the watchmaker’s favorite number. The timepiece is powered by a Jaquet Droz 5853LR.4 self-winding mechanical movement, double barrel, perpetual calendar, retrograding moon phase, 22-carat white gold oscillating weight.

Longines Heritage Military 1938
Following Orb’s victory in the Kentucky Derby, Longines, the Official Watch and Timekeeper for the celebrated race, awarded the horse’s owner, trainer and jockey with watches from the brand’s Saint-Imier collection at the event’s Winners’ Circle Party. The Swiss watchmaking brand was the Official Watch and Timekeeper of Kentucky Derby 139 and Entitlement Partner of Longines Kentucky Oaks 139. Now the luxury watch brand is Paris where it is the Official Timekeep of Roland-Garros, home of the French Open.

Prior to both events, the brand was in Baselworld showing off its new watch collections. Among them was the Longines Heritage Military 1938, which uses the same aesthetics based on the design of a military watch produced by Longines in the 1930s. With a diameter of 42 mm and fitted with the automatic calibre L705, this timepiece displays the hours and minutes, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock and the small second at 9 o’clock. Large white Arabic numerals, coated with Super-LumiNova and a minute circle white as well contrasts with the deep matt black of the dial.

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Nayla Hayek Named CEO of Harry Winston

Nayla Hayek

Swatch Group Ltd. said Friday that Nayla Hayek, chairwoman of the Swiss holding company and daughter of the company’s founder Nicolas Hayek, has been named CEO of Harry Winston, Inc., effective immediately.

This change in leadership was first noted in early April when it was reported that the luxury brand’s former CEO, Frédéric de Narp, quietly left the company and Hayek assumed his role. She had already been nominated chairwoman of Harry Winston when the company was acquired by Swatch Group in March from former its owner, now named Dominion Diamond Corp., for $750 million plus the assumption of up to $250 million of pro forma net debt.

The luxury diamond jeweler and timepiece retailer has salons in key locations throughout the world—including New York, Paris, London, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Tokyo and Beverly Hills.

The brand’s namesake, Harry Winston (March 1, 1896 – December 28, 1978) founded the luxury retail company in 1932. He was among the most famous jewelers in the world and the first jeweler to lend jewels to an actress for the Oscars red carpet in 1944. He was also well-known for donating the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington.

The Swatch Group, based in Biel, Switzerland, is active in the manufacture and sale of finished watches, jewelry, watch movements and components. It is the world’s largest watchmaking group and supplies nearly all the components required for the watches sold by its 19 individual brands and the multi-brand Tourbillon retail company.

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Baselworld’s ‘Opening Act’

Baselworld representatives at opening day press conference.

BASEL, Switzerland — Baselworld, the premiere event of the Swiss watch industry, on Wednesday unveiled the latest renovation to the multi-building complex that it calls home. The $454.5-million upgrade reflects the spectacular success of an industry that has defied the trials and tribulations of the worldwide economy and a product that has remained popular despite changing fashion and trends. It also is a response to an industry now dominated by a few luxury conglomerates.

The eight-day watch and jewelry fair actually opens Thursday. Wednesday was press day, where top officials discussed the tradeshow and the industry in general. The discussion of the new design was described as Baselworld’s “opening act” by Sylvie Ritter, managing director of the tradeshow.

While several buildings underwent dramatic change under the leadership of architects Herzog & de Meuron, most eyes are focused on Hall 1, now rebranded as the “Global Hall.” It is the main area for some of the most world-renowned watch and jewelry brands. This year, the area not only underwent dramatic structural change, but occupants changed as well. Several brands (mostly independent) were moved to other areas of the complex. Now brands represented by global conglomerates Swatch Group and LVMH far outnumber independent brands. These include Hublot, Tag Heuer, Breguet and Bulgari.

Independent brands that remain in Hall 1 include Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Ulysse Nardin.

René Kamm, CEO of MCH Group, which operates the Basel fairgrounds (Messe Basel), explained that the redesigned hall is reserved for “watch and jewelry brands that have a global impact and a worldwide reach.”

Speakers put on a unified front and spent a great of deal of time thanking exhibitors. However, change this dramatic does not come easy and several exhibitors who have lost their space in Hall 1 were not happy (although refusing to voice their displeasure publicly).

All of this change also came at a price. Several brand executives told me (or refused to dispute) that exhibiting in Hall 1—which includes the construction of multi-story, elaborate temporary showrooms that also have been upgraded this year—now costs upwards of $5 million.

Jacques J. Duchêne, president of the Baselworld Exhibitors’ Committee, said it is the domination of luxury conglomerates that has led to the changes at Baselworld.

“In the course of the past 15 years, the watch and jewelry industry has been through a consolidation process on a scale never witnessed before, and this has also had its effects on the challenges faced by production and marketing, which have changed radically,” Duchêne said. “Now it is a good thing to take note of changes and to adjust to them, but it is even better still to anticipate needs and to be in a position to satisfy them without delay when they arise.”

The price hike and the pressure to create more elaborate booths were also felt among exhibitors who don’t have the deep pockets of the brands in Hall 1. A few companies actually pulled out of the show. Perhaps seeing an opportunity, Hong Kong-based tradeshow and publishing company, UBM Asia, will open its first tradeshow in the European market next year in nearby Freiburg, Germany, with dates that overlap Baselworld.

 

The international press at the opening of Baselworld

But even though some are a bit disgruntled, the 1,460 companies from 40 countries exhibiting recognize the importance of being there in terms of sheer numbers, glamour and international attention. Many brands will bring international celebrities along to help present their new products. More than 3,500 journalists from 70 countries will be covering the event and approximately 100,000 people will attend.

The show is also buoyed by the amazing success of the Swiss watch industry. In 2012, the industry has produced another record year with exports totaling 21.4 billion Swiss francs ($22.6 billion), a 10.9 percent increase over 2011.

“Today, it is thanks to this excellent state of health of the industry that we are able to present the show to you in its attractive new look,” Duchêne said. 

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Dominion Diamond Completes $553 million Acquisition of Ekati Diamond Mine

Ekati Diamond Mine

Dominion Diamond Corp., formerly known as Harry Winston Diamond Corp., said Wednesday it has completed its acquisition of the Ekati Diamond Mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories and related diamond sorting and sales facilities in Yellowknife, Canada, and Antwerp, Belgium. The Canadian subsidiary of mining company BHP Billiton was the majority owner of the mine and the other facilities. BHP is exiting the diamond business to concentrate on other mining activities.

The purchase price was $500 million plus price adjustments of $53 million for items that include interest, tax and capital expenditures bringing the total amount paid to $553 million. On the date of closing Ekati had cash on hand of approximately $65 million and two sales cycles (10 weeks) of diamond inventory either in the process of being sorted and valued or available for sale. Dominion Diamond said the inventory will be valued against its rough diamond sales assortments.

Dominion Diamond also provided letters of credit to the Government of Canada of approximately CAD$127 million, in support of reclamation obligations for the Core Zone. The purchase price and the letters of credit were satisfied from or secured by cash on hand.

The Ekati Diamond Mine consists of the Core Zone, which includes the current operating mine and other permitted kimberlite pipes, as well as the Buffer Zone, an adjacent area hosting kimberlite pipes having both development and exploration potential.

Dominion Diamond funded the acquisition through its recent $1 billion sale of the Harry Winston luxury retail brand to Swatch Group. The company also owns a 40 percent stake in the Diavik Diamond Mine, also in the Northwest Territories of Canada. The acquisition of Ekati has made the company the largest supplier of Canadian diamonds.

Dominion Diamond is still flush with cash and the speculation is it will use the money to buy the remaining 60 percent interest in the Diavik Diamond Mine from mining company Rio Tinto, which has, like BHP, stated a desire to pull out of the diamond business to focus on other mining activities.

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The Former Harry Winston Diamond Corp. Files First Earnings Report Under New Name; Ekati Mine Acquisition Is Approved; Frédéric de Narp Reportedly Resigns

The new Dominion Diamond Corp. logo.

Dominion Diamond Corp., the company formerly known as Harry Winston Diamond Corp., said that consolidated sales from continuing operations increased 8 percent to $110.1 million for the fourth quarter. The increase was the result of an improved sales mix, partially offset by a 3 percent decrease in volume of carats sold during the quarter. It also cited increased demand in India, China and the United States.

Meanwhile, operating profit from continuing operations fell 12 percent in the quarter ended Jan 31 to $21 million. Consolidated EBITDA from continuing operations decreased 6 percent to $45.3 million.

Net income from continuing operations fell to $12.1 million, or 14 cents per share, from $12.7 million, or 15 cents per share, a year earlier.

Since 2006, the company operated as two segments: a luxury retail jewelry and watch division under the iconic Harry Winston brand name and a diamond mining business. The company closed its sale of the luxury brand segment to the Swatch Group Ltd. on March 26 in a deal valued at $1 billion. As part of the closing of the transaction, the company changed its name to Dominion Diamond Corp. and its common shares now trade on both the Toronto and New York stock exchanges under the symbol DDC.

The company now operates solely as diamond mining and marketing business and its earnings report reflects this with the results of the luxury brand segment treated as discontinued operations for accounting and reporting purposes.

Other fourth quarter highlights include:

* Rough diamond production during the fourth calendar quarter increased 19 percent to 1.9 million carats.

* The company had 500,000 carats of rough diamond inventory with an estimated current market value of approximately $65 million at January 31, of which approximately $25 million represents rough diamond inventory available for sale, with the remaining $40 million being sorted.

In related news:

* The company previously said it received regulatory approval to complete the $500 million acquisition of the Ekati diamond mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories and diamond sorting and sales facilities in Yellowknife, Canada, and Antwerp and Belgium, from mining company BHP Billiton Canada Inc. Dominion said it expects the transaction to close on or about April 10. It was speculated that the sale of the luxury retail segment was used to finance the acquisition.

* In addition, the company is reportedly interested in buying the remaining stake in Diavik diamond mine. It currently owns a 40 percent share of the mine with the remaining interest owned by mining company Rio Tinto, as Rio has stated a desire to pull out of the diamond business.

* Frédéric de Narp, president and CEO of the Harry Winston luxury segment, has resigned, according to a report in the New York Post. Nayla Hayek, a Swatch board member and daughter of the company’s founder Nicolas Hayek, has assumed de Narp’s role.

“The last year and this first quarter has been a time of great positive change for the company, including changing its very identity,” said Robert Gannicott, Dominion Diamond Corp.’s chairman and CEO. “This change reflects a focus on the production, sorting and sale of diamonds from Northern Canada, a region that we know and understand well. The acquisition of the Ekati Mine, and its operating team, is expected to close next week giving us operational control of both a producing mine and development opportunities in the large scale resources on the Ekati property. Together with our exploration acreage adjacent to the Ekati and Diavik properties, this positions us from grass-roots exploration through development opportunities. We also become the largest supplier of Canadian diamonds sold through an expert sorting and marketing chain that we have perfected through the years of Diavik production.” 

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Swatch Group Finalizes $1 Billion Acquisition of Harry Winston

The Harry Winston Salon in Harrods London department store.

The world-renowned Harry Winston luxury brand is now under new ownership. The Swatch Group Ltd. said late Tuesday that it has successfully completed the acquisition of the jewelry and timepiece retailer.

Swatch and Harry Winston Diamond Corp.,  now the prior owner of the brand, announced in January that the Harry Winston luxury retail division was being sold for $750 million plus the assumption of up to $250 million of pro forma net debt.

In addition to being a luxury jeweler and timepiece company, Harry Winston Diamond Corp. operates as a diamond mining business with a 40 percent ownership interest in the Diavik Diamond Mine. It is finalizing the purchase of the Ekati Diamond Mine, including its diamond sorting and sales facilities. Both mines are in the Northwest Territories of Canada.

Following the transaction, the company now is solely a diamond company and operates under the new name, Dominion Diamond Corp., while Swatch Group retains the Harry Winston brand name.

The U.S.-based luxury retail business was bought by the Canadian diamond mining group, Aber Corp., in 2006 to create the Harry Winston Diamond Corp., with divisions in luxury retail and diamond mining. It was listed on the New York Stock Exchange in 2007.

The brand’s namesake (Harry Winston, March 1, 1896 – December 28, 1978) founded the luxury retail company in 1932. He was among the most famous jewelers in the world and the first jeweler to lend jewels to an actress for the Oscars red carpet in 1944. He was also famous for donating the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington.

The luxury diamond jeweler and timepiece retailer has salons in key locations—including New York, Paris, London, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Tokyo and Beverly Hills.

The Swatch Group, based in Biel, Switzerland, is the world’s leading supplier of finished watches and watch movements and one of the world’s largest buyers of polished diamonds. The two companies previously said that they will explore the opportunities for a joint diamond polishing venture bringing together the manufacturing and diamond expertise of the two companies.

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Harry Winston Diamond Corp. Receives Approval to Sell Luxury Brand to Swatch Group

Harry Winston Diamond Corp. said Thursday that it expects the sale of its luxury diamond jewelry and timepiece division, Harry Winston, Inc., to the Swatch Group to close on or around March 26. The Toronto-based company said it has received regulatory approval to complete the sale.

The two companies announced in January that the Harry Winston luxury division was being sold to the Swatch Group for $750 million plus the assumption of up to $250 million of pro forma net debt.

In addition to being a luxury jeweler and timepiece company, Harry Winston Diamond Corp. operates as a diamond company with a 40 percent ownership interest in the Diavik Diamond Mine. It is finalizing the purchase of the Ekati Diamond Mine, including its diamond sorting and sales facilities. Both mines are in the Northwest Territories of Canada.

Upon completing the sale of its luxury retail business, the company will be solely in the diamond mining and distribution business operating under the new name, Dominion Diamond Corp. The Swatch Group will retain the Harry Winston brand name.

The U.S.-based luxury retail business was bought by the Canadian diamond mining group, Aber Corp., in 2006 to create the Harry Winston Diamond Corp., with divisions in luxury retail and diamond mining. It was listed on the New York Stock Exchange in 2007.

The brand’s namesake (Harry Winston, March 1, 1896 – December 28, 1978) founded the luxury retail company in 1932. He was among the most famous jewelers in the world and the first jeweler to lend jewels to an actress for the Oscars red carpet in 1944. He was also famous for donating the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington.

The luxury diamond jeweler and timepiece retailer has salons in key locations—including New York, Paris, London, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Tokyo and Beverly Hills.

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Swatch Group Acquires Harry Winston’s Luxury Retail Division for $1 Billion

The Swatch Group has acquired the famed Harry Winston luxury diamond jewelry and timepiece retail business for $750 million plus their assumption of up to $250 million of pro forma net debt. When this transaction is completed the company, Harry Winston Diamond Corp., will be solely in the diamond mining and distribution business.

The U.S. based division (Harry Winston Inc.) is a premier diamond jeweler and luxury timepiece retailer with salons in key locations—including New York, Paris, London, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Tokyo and Beverly Hills. The possible sale of the retail division was the subject of rumors for months, which the company denied in a statement issued in October.

The company’s namesake (Harry Winston, March 1, 1896 – December 28, 1978) founded the company in 1932. He was among the most famous jewelers in the world and the first jeweler to lend jewels to an actress for the Oscars red carpet in 1944. He was also famous for donating the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington.

The jeweler was bought by Canadian diamond mining group, Aber Corp., in 2006 to create the Harry Winston Diamond Corp., with divisions in luxury retail and diamond mining, which was listed on the New York Stock Exchange in 2007.

The transaction does not include the Canadian-based diamond mining activities of Harry Winston Diamond Corp., which has a 40 percent ownership interest in the Diavik Diamond Mine and is finalizing the purchase of the Ekati Diamond Mine, including its diamond sorting and sales facilities. Both mines are in the Northwest Territories of Canada.

When the transaction with Swatch is completed, this diamond business will operate under the name: Dominion Diamond Corporation.

Robert Gannicott, Harry Winston chairman and CEO, said changes in both luxury retail and the diamond markets, as well as the need for cash, led to the decision to sell its luxury retail operation.

“At the time that we purchased the Harry Winston brand, resource investment opportunities for diamonds were rare and expensive following the euphoria of the Canadian diamond discoveries, and the involvement of the large international mining companies,” Gannicott said in a statement. “The Harry Winston brand was competitively priced compared with its peers and we could bring diamond expertise and strategic connections to enhance value. Today there is a range of diamond resource opportunities while the value of heritage luxury brands has increased dramatically. This transaction represents a sound return on our original investment. It will leave us well equipped to realize upstream opportunities in an environment where cash has become a strategic resource while preserving and expanding our relationship with the downstream diamond business.”

The Swatch Group, based in Biel, Switzerland, is the world’s leading supplier of finished watches and watch movements and one of the world’s largest buyers of polished diamonds. The two companies said that they will also explore the opportunities for a joint diamond polishing venture bringing together the manufacturing and diamond expertise of the two companies.

“Harry Winston does brilliantly complement the prestige segment of the Group,” said Nayla Hayek, chairwoman of The Swatch Group Ltd. in a separate statement. “We are proud and happy to welcome Harry Winston to the Swatch Group family—diamonds are still a girl’s best friend.”

The transaction is subject to the approval of the different regulatory authorities.

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