Nanis: Jewels Engineered With Italian Style

Laura Bicego, founder of Nanis Italian Jewels with one of her creations 

By Gretchen Friedrich, Jewelry News Network’s social media manager

Laura Bicego, founder and “creative soul” of Nanis Italian Jewels in Verona, Italy, approaches her creations with a fused vision of structure and aesthetics. The progression flows from concept, to fabrication, to finishing touches like hand-engraved etchings and custom clasps for each themed collection. 

The artisan, whose accessory assemblage rivals Sir Elton John’s, prioritizes functionality along with style. An example is my introductory piece from her Lagoon line. 

Necklaces linked together from the Lagoon collection

What I thought was a well-crafted gold long chain necklace, turned out to be two 36-inch linked necklaces and a bracelet all held together by invisible clasps for an infinite effect. Bicego demonstrated how each section could disconnect and reconnect in a vast number of combinations to compliment any ensemble. 

The Transformista bracelet

The second demonstration of alluring illusion was the 2016 Centurion Award-winning Transformista bracelet. Individual links of diamonds and hand-etched gold connect in two ways: One configuration allows the bracelet to lie flush against the wrist, but when released, the connectors spin like an Olympic ice skater and the bracelet transforms into a double-helix of gold and diamonds. 

During our conversation in her exhibition space at JCK Las Vegas, she emphasized the importance of versatility and interaction with her jewelry. 

“It’s as much about style as it about being playful with the jewelry,” she says, as trays of hand-formed components make their way onto the desk. 

Earrings that covert to a pendant from the Cachemire collection

Further selections from the trays included earrings that could reverse for a day-to-evening transition. Also a paisley-shaped earring dangle, from the Cachemire collection, converts into a pendant with a delicate gold chain. Bicego advocates interchanging the components, as well as layering, and adding to existing jewelry box items for a renewed approach to accessorizing. 

Etching The Niche
Details are magnified in the Nanis workshop, where skilled craftspeople create components by hand, and Bicego is involved with every undertaking. When she couldn't embrace a link pattern for a necklace, she manufactured a tool that would stretch the gold into the shape she wanted. Bicego also created an earring back that is shaped to counterbalance the weight of a substantial gold and diamond teardrop earring component. 

The colorful Ipanema ring

New Colors In the Ipanema Family
New to the Nanis portfolio is the expanded Ipanema color wheel. The signature hand-formed gold foundations cradle rutilated quartz, aquamarine, several shades of topaz, along with moonstone, labradorite, and amethyst. Inspiration for this distinctive newcomer was the atmosphere of the sea, displayed in hues of blue and contrasting yellows. 

Clouds, summer storms and beached treasures found their way into the Ipanema collection of necklaces, earrings bracelets and rings. Bicego is fond of stacking, and with the tailoring of the Ipanema line, multiple pieces fit nicely together without an overwhelming appearance. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Couture Show Jewelry And Watch Preview

Irene Neuwirth one-of-a-kind colorful jewelry necklace made of a variety of gems

It’s Las Vegas Jewelry Week and this year my participation will be limited to three days so I decided to focus my attention to The Couture Show, the most exclusive of the many jewelry tradeshows being held in Las Vegas this week. The five-day event beginning May 28 is a showcase for major jewelry and watch brands, and designer and couture jewelers.

Lagos’s Keep Memory Alive Sterling Silver Signature Caviar Collection supports, a nonprofit organization dedicated to the research, management and treatment of memory disorders. Designs are inspired by the intricate curvature of Keep Memory Alive’s architectural masterpiece in Las Vegas, designed by world-renowned architect, Frank Gehry. The company’s founder, Steven Lagos, is a long time supporter of the organization

In recent years it has expanded its footprint internationally among exhibitors, buyers and press. More than 4,000 buyers are expected to view the offerings of more than 350 exhibitors at the Wynn Las Vegas, which include Roberto Coin, David Yurman, Pomellato, Lagos and Stephen Webster. Established jewelers exhibiting for the first time include Omi Privé, Gumuchian and London-based art jeweler, Completedworks

Omi Privé Opal and Diamond 3-Stone Ring augmented with sapphires and diamonds set in 18k yellow gold

In addition to jewelry, the show has been attracting more luxury watch brands. Expect this trend to continue as Couture recently announced that it is partnering with advising and consulting company, Kaiser Time Inc., to develop the watch category for the show. Among the watch brands exhibiting for the first time are Baume & Mercier, Hermes, Gucci and Tudor.

Gurhan Gold and Opal Pendant in 24k gold with irregular-shaped opals and round diamonds

In addition to Couture, there are no fewer than six other jewelry, gem and watch shows at hotels along “The Strip,” making up what has become informally known as “Las Vegas Jewelry Week.” The biggest is the JCK Show (May 26 – June 1), located at the Mandalay Bay Hotel & Conference Center, a jewelry tradeshow that provides a showcase for the entire breadth of jewelry available in the US, as well as jewelry making technology, machinery, jewelry packaging, and support services.

Hermès Cape Cod Zebra Pegasus Watch employed Grand Feu enameling for the miniature painting of the zebra and the cloisonné technique for the wings. The dial’s base is made of a 22k gold plate crafted into three different layers. Limited to four pieces

For estate and collectible jewelry and watches, there’s the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show (May 28 -31), the largest such event catering to those in the jewelry trade. AGTA GemFair, also at Mandalay Bay (May 28 –June), features gem dealers from around the world.

Stefan Hafner Jasmine Bracelet in white gold embellished with diamonds inspired by the inspired by the rich decoration of ancient Moroccan palaces, enveloped by the citrus scent of the royal gardens

The other tradeshows include American Craft Retailers Expo at South Point Hotel Casino & Spa (May 28 – 30), for American and Canadian artists, many just entering into the marketplace; the Gem & Lapidary Association show at the Mirage Resort & Casino Hotel (May 25 – 28); and the International Watch and Jewelry Guild Show (May 25 – 26).

Completedworks Pillar inspired by ruined architecture, the brand’s signature collection draws together the elegant, elongated, sometimes elaborate, architectural language of the classical column

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Temple St. Clair 18k Small Flower Necklace with Royal Blue Moonstone (61.92cts) and diamonds (0.90cts)

Ornella Iannuzzi Rock It! Pendant Cage with an opal bead inside an 18k yellow gold geometric cage

Moritz Glik’s Kaleidoscope combines tiny gold star motifs with his signature diamonds, shaking between two sapphire crystals

25-Carat Ruby Ring By Cartier Fetches World Auction Record $30.4 Million

Additional reporting by Gretchen Friedrich, Jewelry News Network social media manager

The 25.59-carat “Sunrise Ruby” by Cartier smashes estimates to fetch $30.38 million, a world record for a price of a ruby at auction. It was the surprising top lot Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale held Tuesday at the Hôtel Beau-Rivage. 

Known as the “Sunrise Ruby,” it’s described as a “unique treasure of nature” by the Swiss Gemmological Institute. The ruby didn’t receive any heat treatment and the color is described by that famous auction moniker for exceptional rubies, “pigeon’s blood” red: the rarest and most sought-after of hues. 

The ruby was the high point in a jewelry auction that saw many highs, taking in approximately $134 million, with 93.5 percent of the 484 lots sold. The top ten results were a mix of colored gems and diamonds along with white diamonds, natural pearls and three other Cartier jewels. 

Going into the auction, the top lot was expected to be the “Historic Pink,”  (pictured above) an 8.72-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond that the auction house described as “extremely rare and highly important.” This turned out to be the second highest lot of the sale, fetching $16 million, within its estimate. The jewel is believed to have been part of the collection of Princess Mathilde, the niece of Napoleon Bonaparte. The stone, which has VS2 clarity, is also distinguished by its classic non-modified cushion cut, unusual in a pink diamond, Sotheby’s said. 

A custom-made diamond necklace of more than 190 carats by Cartier (pictured above) sold for $7.25 million. The piece was designed as a cascade of diamonds, the front accented with a floral motif and suspending a fringe of nine pear-shaped stones.

Despite an auction season that has had its share of high and lows, one category of jewelry that continues to see consistently higher prices are natural pearls. This auction didn’t disappoint as three pearl jewels were among the top 10 lots.

The first was a natural pearl and diamond necklace that has at least least some Cartier lineage (signed clasp and case stamp) that sold for $7 million (pictured above), well above its high estimate. It is composed of two graduated strands of 78 natural pearls on a clasp set with a marquise-shaped diamond weighing 4.39 carats.

In addition, a single strand necklace composed of a graduated row of natural pearls measuring from 7.95 to 12.40mm, on a barrel clasp set with brilliant-cut diamonds sold for $3.8 million, totally obliterating its high estimate of approximately $527,000.

The other Cartier pieces that sparkled at the auction were a brooch set with a 30.23-carat Kashmir sapphire that sold for $6.1 million; and sapphire and diamond earrings of the same design made with two Burmese Mogok sapphires of 15.77 and 16.90 carats. This sold for $3.43 million, well above its high estimate.

The other top lots are as follows:

* A 32-carat colorless diamond ring sold for more than $4 million. It was one of two colorless diamonds among the top 10 lots.

* The other was a pair of earrings each suspending a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 10.02 and 10.03 carats, from a line of single-cut diamonds, which sold for $3.2 million.

* Rounding out the top 10 was a natural pearl and diamond ear clips that sold for $3.2 million.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

A Dozen Blooming Jewelry Gifts For The Mother Who Loves You

Lydia Courteille rose earrings in 18K white gold with tsavorites and fancy sapphires.  www.lydiacourteille.com

To this day whenever I board an airplane my mother has a mild conniption. That’s just the way it is—mothers worry about their kids no matter how old. It’s part of who they are.

McTeigue & McClelland Dandelion Earrings with crystal drops (each set with one round brilliant-cut diamonds). The earrings are in 18k bloomed yellow gold and platinum with hand applied green enamel. www.mc2jewels.com

So instead of doing the easy thing of giving her flowers this year, why not by her a bouquet of jewelry, or at least a rose-themed jewelry piece?

Dannini Victoria rose ring with a ear-shaped ruby, wrapped in rose gold petals, accented by pavé-set diamonds atop a heart-shaped stem of white gold. www.dannini.com 

Below are 12 flowery suggestions along with links to the websites on how they can be purchased. They range in price and availability but not in quality.

Piaget 18k rose gold set with two brilliant-cut diamonds and a carved pink opal. www.piaget.com

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

14k yellow gold Art Nouveau Enamel Rose Pin Pendant is shaded from soft cream at the center to dusty rose, and set at center with a 0.10 carat diamond. Available at Aaron Faber Gallery, New York. www.aaronfaber.com

Mary Esses Rose Ring features a bouquet of roses, in a signature knot ring, framed by oval pavé-set diamonds, set in 18k rose gold. www.maryesses.com

Mattioli Arcimboldino ring in rose gold, with citrine, amethyst, rhodolite and tourmaline. www.mattioligioielli.it

Sara Weinstock Gold Flower Stud earrings with white diamonds. www.saraweinstock.com

Le Vian Strawberry Gold Florets Ring in 14k gold with Chocolate and Vanilla Diamonds. www.levian.com

Borgioni Garden Rose Stud Earrings in 18K rose gold, pave diamond rose stud earrings. www.borgionis.com

Leibish Multicolor Couture Rosecut Diamond Bracelet with 112 diamonds (54.84 ctw.) set 18k gold. www.leibish.com

Montblanc Boheme Date Automatic Watch in 18k rose gold and 62 small diamonds. www.montblanc.com

Buccellati Unveils 5-Piece Jewelry Collection Inspired By Master Artists

Gold ring inspired by The Spider's Web by Mikhail Larionov (pictured below) 

Buccellati unveiled a jewelry collection Thursday inspired by the individual works of five master artists from the impressionist and post-impressionist periods. The five one-of-a-kind pieces designed by, Andrea Buccellati, president and creative director, and his 25-year-old daughter, Lucrezia Buccellati, the first woman to be a designer for Buccellati and its youngest family member to be given the title, are based masterpieces from Claude Monet, Pierre Bonnard, Winslow Homer, Mikhail Larionov and Odilon Redon. 

Gold bracelet inspired by Winslow Homer's Light Blue Sea at Prout's Neck (pictured below)

It will be shown in an exhibition format during the grand opening of its flagship at 714 Madison Avenue Thursday March 12. Entitled “Timeless Blue,” the evening will support the restoration foundation, Save Venice. The new pieces will be displayed with the painting that provided the inspiration.

Gold earrings inspired by Claude Monet's Tempête sur les cotes de Belle-Ile (pictured below)

Andrea explained the color blue is very important to Buccellati.

“The blue color reflects the historical roots of Buccellati and has nothing to do with the blue period of Impressionism,” he said. “With the new rebranding of the company we have wanted to preserve many of the historical concepts of Buccellati, and the blue color is one of them.”

Gold earrings inspired by Odilon Redon's  La Chute de Phaéton (pictured below)

Andrea said even though the jewelry created for the flagship opening event had international influences, it wasn’t an attempt to create a more international image.

“Lucrezia and I were particularly inspired by the impressionist and post-impressionist time periods. We had at our disposal, some different masters and works of art to choose from. Specifically, Lucrezia was inspired by the works of art of Winslow Homer and Odilon Redon,” he said. 

Pendant necklace inspired by Pierre Bonnard's  Deux Vases de fleurs (pictured below)

“My inspiration to create jewels has never had geographic boundaries,” he added. “Lucrezia’s inspiration comes more from different cultures and traditions from around the world. Being based in New York helps, as it is a city with a mixture of people from all different parts of the world.”

The creative team, Andrea Buccellati and his daughter, Lucrezia

The new five-story retail store was the former home of French jeweler, Mauboussin. Andrea said this space represents a new design conceived and developed with architectural firm, Vudafieri Saverino Partners. It is defined by wood floors, plush white and cream-colored furnishings and neutral colors highlighted by modern artistic touches. 

Inside the new Buccellati New York flagship

“The New York flagship perfectly represents the new concept of Buccellati and thanks to the dimensions of the New York space, we will have the possibility to express it at its best,” Andrea said. “We have succeeded in maintaining the concept of Buccellati’s traditional style combined with a more modern sobriety and elegance. I think this new essential look will emphasize the unique and incomparable style of our creations, and they will finally stand out with all their beauty.”

Andrea explained that its previous space on Madison Avenue was a temporary solution while the new five-story space will be its permanent home in New York.

“After the move of our townhouse at 57th Street, due to a new real estate project, we wanted to find a new place to reside on Madison Avenue,” he said. “It was hard to immediately find the right place for Buccellati, the place we felt we deserved. Therefore we found a temporary solution at 810 Madison Avenue in order to wait until something more exciting could be found.”

In 2014, the Mauboussin space opened up and Andrea said it had the size to properly show its pieces and the elegance that reflects the brand. 

The facade of the new Buccellati flagship on Madison Avenue

“This new space is the best we could have imagined for ourselves on Madison Avenue,” he said. “We are among all the important jewelers of the world present on Madison and we could not miss being there. It matches the prestige of our brand…. This move marks the expansion of the brand here in the U.S. as well as the evolution of the brand further into the 21st Century.”

Andrea explained the first floor will be dedicated to jewelry, watches and some silver pieces. The second floor will host silverware and its new collection of bridal rings, released a year ago as a new category for the jeweler. 

“The bridal world is an important segment in jewelry, and it will give us the possibility to offer our clients a wider range of choices mostly focused on young couples,” he said. “At the same time, these young couples will have the chance to admire the silver pieces for table and home decoration, which have always been crucial as bridal presents.”

The third floor will be dedicated to vintage products and historical items of the high jewelry house; and serve as a place to privately meet with clients. 

The fourth floor is for exhibitions of special collections, while the fifth floor will be dedicated to the “Buccellati Club,” a place to host friends and clients for a drink, breakfast or dinner. 

“The dimensions of the boutique, the entire space will be exploited in the best way to express all our savoir-faire and the world of Buccellati,” Andrea said.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Valentine’s Day: 20 Jewelry Gifts That Say I Love You

Rubelite cushion ring by Fusaro Jewelry

I am aware that Valentine’s Day is celebrated in many countries around the world and I’m just as aware that readers of this blog are also from all over the world. 

With this in mind, I selected jewelry that is available in the US, in other countries and online. Some of the pieces are extremely rare and others are more easily available. For example, one yellow gold ring in the group can only be purchased at the jeweler’s store on the famed Parisian shopping street, rue de la Paix. Two other pieces are available in very limited numbers at a handful of company boutiques. Most of the items are available at retailers throughout the US. One fancy colored diamond company is almost a pure-play e-commerce firm. So no matter where you live you can order from them.

As of this writing Valentine's Day is only 10 days away. So no matter where you live, there's little time left to buy that thoughtful, unique jewelry gift for Valentine's Day.

Rubelite cushion ring by Fusaro Jewelry (top photo) flanked by marquised diamonds set In platinum ring. www.fusarojewelry.com

18K rose gold ring by Mary Esses features her signature fabric texture in an interlaced band design adorned with 0.35cts of white diamonds. www.maryesses.com

Amour collection by Leibish Fancy Diamonds with pavé-set heart-shaped diamond jewelry, each designed with fancy intense yellow or fancy pink diamonds. www.leibish.com

London blue Topaz ring by Lisa Nik with diamonds and secured with prongs in the shape of little hearts. www.lisanik.com

Flora Centrix diamond necklace by McTeigue & McClelland hand-made in 18k yellow gold and platinum featuring 19 old European-cut diamonds. mc2jewels.com

Paraiba ring by Oscar Heyman featuring platinum and 18k yellow gold centered with a 7-carat oval Paraiba tourmaline surrounded by 6 oval diamonds and 6 round fancy yellow diamonds. www.oscarheyman.com

Diamond, sapphire and tsavorite ring by Lydia Courteille in 18k gold that covers the finger. www.lydiacourteille.com

Bella Ring by Robert Procop, ruby and pink sapphires are the main gems in this 18k yellow ring embellished with diamonds. www.robertprocop.com

Maxi Earrings by Carrera y Carrera feature flowers in hand-made 18k gold with diamonds from the Seda Imperial collection. www.carreraycarrera.com

Verdura 75th Anniversary Limited Edition 'Theodora' Cuff made of sapphire, emerald, and amethyst in high relief, surrounded by rubies, diamonds, aquamarines, garnets, citrines and peridot, set in 18k gold, on a hinged cuff of black enamel over gold. www.verdura.com 

Heart earrings by Piaget in white gold paved with brilliant diamonds to accentuate the playful shape of the heart. www.piaget.com  

Bizzotto Firmamento Bracelet in 18k rose gold chains embellished with 1.53 cts. of diamonds. www.bizzottogioielli.com

Evanescente Ring by Mellerio dits Meller Médicis, a gold openwork motif in the shape of lily petals embellished with diamonds is used for this ring. Part of the Médicis collection designed by French jewelry designer, Edéenne, it celebrates the 400th year anniversary of the Parisian jewelry store. www.mellerio.fr/en

Teddy Bear Pendant by Shawish in 18k white gold with pink sapphires, black diamonds, brown diamonds and white diamonds. This is perhaps the most popular jewel I've ever written about. www.shawish.ch

Diamond Heart Pendant by Lagos in sterling silver beading frames a heart of pave diamonds finished on a 16- or 18-inch ball chain. www.lagos.com

Amorfus Earrings by Vianna, 18k white gold, set with blue topaz and diamonds from the Brazilian jewelry design firm. www.viannabrasil.com

Australian South Seas Pearl Earrings by Yoko in 18k white gold, 3.10 carats of G-VS diamonds and 26.74 carats of sapphires with the 10-11mm pearls. www.yokolondon.com

Cento Flowers necklace, earrings and ring by Roberto Coin in white gold with Cento diamonds, known for its 100-facets. us.robertocoin.com

A cabochon ruby and diamond bracelet by Suzanne Belperron available at Fred Leighton New York, with more than 50 carats of rubies and over 2 carats of baguette diamonds. www.fredleighton.com

Starfish by Gismondi in 18K rose gold with pink sapphires and natural white diamonds from the Italian jewelry company. www.gismondijewellery1754.com

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.