|Emerald and diamond ring by Andrew Grima (est. $20,000 $30,000).|
The first auction to focus on the work of legendary jewelry Andrew Grima, since his death in 2007, will be presented by Bonhams New York on October 19.
British Royal jewelry, designer and artisan, Grima was the foremost modern jewelry designer in the West End of London in the 1960s and 1970s with clients including Queen Elizabeth, Princess Margaret, Princess Anne, The Duke of Edinburgh, Barbara Hepworth and Jacqueline Onassis. Grima gained recognition following the 1961 Exhibition of International Jewelry where his pieces of highly textured materials and abstract shapes led to his appointment as a Crown Jeweler in 1970 commissioned to make items of jewelry for the British and Scandinavian royal families.
Consisting of 35 Grima designs, the collection comes from the New York estates of Marvin and Laura Speiser and was amassed over the course of two decades of close friendship between the Speisers and Andrew Grima and his wife Jojo, Bonhams said in a statement.
Highlighting the sale is a circa 1988 emerald and diamond ring (top image), centering a cut-cornered, square-cut 11.35 cts. emerald “pool” within a raised surround of round brilliant-cut diamonds, the ring is completed by a textured gold mount. It has an estimated auction value of $20,000-30,000.
Also included in the auction will be a 'sunburst' brooch (below), similar to the one designed exclusively for Queen Elizabeth who presented the piece as a gift to Madame Pompidou in 1972 on her State Visit to France. One of only four created, this example is designed as rays of textured gold centering a forest green tourmaline and can be worn as a pendant as well as a brooch (est. $8,000-10,000).
The Fine Jewelry sale, also to be presented that day, will feature a sapphire and diamond pendant from Rio, Brazil (est. $100,000-150,000); a South Sea cultured pearl and diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels (est. $70,000-90,000); an Art Deco diamond and sapphire bracelet by Ostertag (est. $30,000-50,000); and a collection of antique jewelry.
Previews will take place at Bonhams' London showrooms from September 19 to 21; the Los Angeles showrooms from October 1 to 3; the San Francisco showrooms from October 8 to 10; and the NewYork showrooms from October 16 to 18. The sale will be simulcast to the San Francisco and Los Angeles showrooms.