Buyers Market Show Provides Smart Phone Map for Jewelry Retailers

A digital and customizable floor map is one of several buyer services that will debut at the Buyers Market, Feb. 16-18, 2013, and its annual Jewelry Preview on Feb. 15, at the Pennsylvania Convention Center in Philadelphia.

Premier Jewelers occupy a pavilion together on the show floor but additional jewelry designers are located throughout the hall. In addition, Buyers Market provides gift and fashion products made by nearly 800 U.S. and Canadian studio artists. 

“The combined square footage of exhibitor booths alone is nearly the equivalent of two football fields,” said Rebecca Mercado, show director. “We’re excited to introduce mobile technology to help our buyers find the merchandise they need.”

Retailers who plan to attend the trade-only show can begin charting their course on the show floor through the digital floor map already in place on the Buyers Market’s website. New exhibitors are added weekly and the artists have begun posting their product keywords in the search list.

The website is also where to register. The $35 basic registration fee includes admission for up to four members of a store’s buying staff, plus access to all retailing seminars, fashion shows and Buyers Market events. Pre-registration ends February 11. On-site registration will be $50. To take advantage of discounted rates at Buyers Market contract hotels near the convention center, register before Jan. 25. For customer service call 866.341.2001 or e-mail BMACregistration@jspargo.com.

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The 2012 Niche Award Winners for Jewelry Design

Cityscape Lisa Hawthorne, the winner in the gold jewelry with stones category. 

The annual Niche Awards, which honors the best in contemporary design by American and Canadian artisans, were presented February 18 during a ceremony at the Buyers Market of American Craft tradeshow in Philadelphia.

Professionals and college students received awards in several categories including gold, silver and gemstone jewelry; fashion accessories; fiber arts and quilts; baskets; blown, fused and cast glass; metalwork; outdoor art; tables and seating; cabinetry; and teapots.
The awards competition, in its 22nd year is sponsored by Niche magazine, which serves retailers of American-made and Canadian-made gift and art products.

You can view the winners in the jewelry categories by following this link.

PROFESSIONAL WINNERS:

Fashion Jewelry, Penelope Bracelet, Kathleen Nowak Tucci 

Fine Jewelry, Mizu Wave Ring, Andrea Williams

Gold Jewelry, Circus, Circus, Pierre-Yves Paquette

 Gold Jewelry with Stones, Cityscape, Lisa Hawthorne

Jewelry Sculpture to Wear, Reconfiguring the Ordinary: Twist Looped and Linked, Yong Joo Kim

Silver Jewelry, Collar, Michael and Maureen Banner.

Silver Jewelry with Stones, Le Mirage, Aleksandra Vali

Wedding Jewelry, Cell Band Wedding Set, Emily Johnson

STUDENT WINNERS:

Fashion Jewelry, Summer Dream, Leeyeon Yoo

Fine Jewelry, Beautiful Coexistence, Hyangmi Kim

Jewelry Sculpture to Wear, Garden of Eden - Haircomb, Kristopher Leinen

Jewelry of a Feather and Other Materials and Techniques that Flock Together

Candy colored bracelets by Carol Martin Jewelry.

The thing about jewelry is that creativity and art doesn’t have to be restricted to precious materials or a structured ways of doing things. Individuality was clearly evident and prevalent among the jewelry designers at the recent Buyers Market of American Craft show held in Philadelphia, held Feb. 17-21. 

Carol Martin Jewelry

The Durango, Colo., resident specializes in pate de verre and kiln cast glass methods. Kiln casting involves the preparation of a mould that is filled with solid glass granules or lumps that's heated to a high temperature to fill the mould. Pate de verre is a form of kiln casting that uses finely crushed glass mixed with a binding material to create a paste that is applied to the inner surface of a negative mould forming a coating. The coated mould is fired and the glass is fused creating a hollow object. Needless to say these are labor intestine techniques so it is rare in jewelry design. She also does precious metal fabrication in sterling silver, 14k gold and gold fill, a solid layer of gold bonded with heat and pressure to a base metal such as brass. The result of all this work is serious jewelry with a playful appearance. It includes candy-colored bracelets (top picture) in round, square and triangular shapes; rings with center glass pieces that look like colored gemstones; pendants that appear like colorful glow sticks; and bracelets built of glass beads fitted with a sterling silver clasp (pictured above).

Volver A Volar

The first booth I stopped at during the BMAC jewelry preview, Feb. 17, was showcasing earrings made of rooster feathers and silver. Totally natural, the multi-colored feathers, which included orange, yellow and white in various natural designs, stood out boldly mixed among the black feathers, which were the most common. They are the work of Sonia Lub, a Napa Valley resident who began the business last year. The name of the company is Spanish for, “To fly away.”

 Sergio Lub

Sharing the booth with Sonia was her father, Sergio, who was showing his hand-crafted copper and magnetic bracelets, which the native of Argentina has been making since 1969. They come in various designs and of course these types of bracelets have been popular in recent years because of possible added health benefits. For example, being near a magnetic force may result in increased circulation. Meanwhile, small amounts of cooper absorbed through the skin may have benefits for those who suffer from arthritis.

Gerhard Herbst

The German native is a metalsmith works primarily with 14k to 18k gold, sterling silver and platinum that he occasionally matches with various gemstones and pearls. He does bring an unusual perspective to his designs. He seems to enjoy stretching the metals into loops and other curved shapes of varying degrees of thickness. It’s most evident in his double-looped oversized bracelets that crossover a person’s arm. 

Terri Lindelow

Among the items that the jewelry artist was displaying, was a group of colorful flat earrings made of hand-pigmented resin and sterling silver. The different colors and shades swirl and blend in circular patterns like water. They come in several shapes, including round, teardrop, oval and marquis.

Rugged and Delicate, the Jewelry of Élise Bergeron

20k gold ring with purple sapphire.

The jewelry section of the Buyers Market of American Craft show in Philadelphia was energized with several new exhibitors presenting innovative concepts and designs. Among the standouts was Élise Bergeron. Technically, this is her second BMAC show. Last year’s show was to be the debut of her new company, but a snowstorm in Philadelphia caused the Quebec, Canada, resident to miss nearly the entire show.

22k earrings with cultured pearls.

Trained in both the visual arts and art history, Bergeron was formerly a museum curator and cultural officer for the city of Montreal before turning to jewelry design about 12 years ago and starting her own business last year. She specializes in casting and forging fine silver and high karat gold (from 20k to 24k), sometimes mixing the two metals, from a single piece into miniaturized rugged, yet delicate, sculptured shapes—matching them with colorful gemstones and cultured pearls. Some items take on the appearance of crumpled foil.

Bergeron does her own gold refining. In fact she says she loves the idea of using fire and her skills to create pieces of ornamentation from what was once a formless piece of precious metal.

“My work is more organic, less classical,” she says. “I think it has some character.”

Ellinghaus’ Dancing Pendants

14K pendant with black and white agate and garnet.

It’s easy to see that metalsmith Nancy Ellinghaus enjoys her work. “There’s nothing like picking up a hammer and making things move,” she said during the recent Buyers Market of American Craft show in Philadelphia.

14K pendant with opal.

Ellinghaus specializes in pendants in 14k gold or silver. She pairs her metal circular and wave-like shapes with a variety of colored gemstones. Some sparkle, others have depth of color. There’s a definite consistency in Ellinghaus’ style. Metal on the finished pieces are thin and curved with lots of open space. The gems appear  balanced on the metal. The finished pieces appear delicate and seem to twist and turn in space, like a ballerina.

“I’m very fond of negative space and I try to capture a sense of motion in all of my pieces,” she said.

Intricate and Inspired High-Karat Gold Jewelry from Alchemic Synthesis

Greek Tsavorite Necklace. 22K gold, tsavorites, 1st century Roman loop-in-loop chain.

One of the bright spots of the recent Buyers Market of American Craft show was meeting Cynthia Alderdice and Lois Mansfield, who co-own and operate Alchemic Synthesis Studio in Annapolis, Md. The BMAC show (held February 17-21) was their first time attempting to appeal to a wholesale audience. Hopefully, it won’t be their last.

The collaborating artists design one of a kind and limited edition pieces in 22K and 24K gold and fine silver. Often the pieces are embellished with gemstones, pearls and enamels. Their work embraces many cultures and employs several techniques. These veteran goldsmiths and jewelry designers are especially skilled in the ancient Etruscan technique of creating granulated 22k gold. They have years of experience in varied art media such as painting, printmaking, sculpture, enameling and, of course, metalsmithing. It is evident that they love their work and love working together.

Their commitment to technique, use of high quality materials, their intellect and passion, and their inspiration from cultures around the world is evident in their designs. They combine materials and techniques that result in layered pieces of varying textures and intricate details.

For example, their Greek tsavorite necklace (top picture) employs no fewer than four separate techniques, from the pin-cushion-like center piece to the rope-like outer edge on the larger centerpiece; to the more circular pin design on below. The clasp for the chain unlike the rest of the jewelry has a smooth finish. The finishing golden touch is the loop-in-loop chain (yes they make own multiple-loop chains), that are as intricate in technique and design as the rest of the piece. Of course, the finale is the two tsavorite gemstones. 

Awakening, tooled 22K gold, cloisonné enamel, patterned fine silver, faceted tourmaline stone, 2nd century AD Roman hand-woven 22K gold and fine silver hammered pinched loop chain.

Another example is, Awakening (above), a pendant that combines cloisonné enamel technique with a design inspired by Japanese art, gold granulation technique, patterned fine silver and a and 22K gold and silver chain hand-woven using a 1st Century Roman technique. There are additional details on the back of the pendant that I'm unable to show.

And they do it all with a smile.

J. Rudy Lewis Jewelry Searches for Historical and Cultural Truths

Victoria's Cuff in silver and brass with leather.

Metalsmith J. Rudy Lewis had one of the shorter commutes of all the exhibitors at the Buyers Market of American Craft show. That’s because he lives in Philadelphia where the trade show for fine craft and art products was held February 17-21.

Lewis works with gold, silver and leather. He produces jewelry for women, men and children, in some cases his pieces can be worn by either sex. They are roughly finished by hammering and often paired with rough diamonds. His cuffs, whether metal or leather or both, wrap around the arm.

“They are hand-cut and finished myself. The wavy patterns represent an ancient of older look,” he said. "The hammering and wrapping represent ritual.”

His designs and the stories describing his work are influenced by his interest in history and culture. His recent freeform brass, silver and leather cuffs he presented at the show reflect these interests.

For example, his Victoria’s cuff (top photo) has the shape and appearance of a woman’s corset, particularly with the vulture head buttons. It is available in brass and silver and can be matched with hand-fabricated leather. 

His Uluru Dreaming cuff (left) is an even more extreme example of Lewis’ look into the past, an extremely roughly forged metal that looks torn and tattered in some places that is dotted with various rough diamonds. He says the rough diamonds give the cuff a “cave effect,” and that the work is a representation of “history, art and a traveler’s journey.”

Scandinavian Inspired Lorak Jewelry Designs

18k Hot Pepper pendant with diamonds.

There were a few new jewelry designers at the recent Buyers Market of American Craft show in Philadelphia and one of those new faces was Anna Lorich Akers, who operates under the name, Lorak Designs.

The recent graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design says she her main influence comes from her Scandinavian heritage, admiring the region’s functional and clean designs.

“I use organic, natural shapes with the clean and utilitarian qualities of Scandinavian design,” she said.

Her Forma collection most typifies this approach, whether she is creating a hot pepper pendant of 18k gold with diamonds (top photo) or her silver Flutter Flap necklace (left) the pieces are straightforward and wearable.

The wave pendant from her Oceana collection uses a large rose cut pear shaped milky Quartz as the center piece surrounded by 14k yellow gold with and dotted with seven white diamonds. She also makes her own chains, such as the 14k, 28-inch chain pictured.

Like any young entrepreneur she is engaged in social media, selling her jewelry directly online and having a Facebook friend page and a blog, which happens to list Jewelry News Network as a favorite site. This certainly accounts for her good taste.

J. Petet’s Gold Jewelry Designs

18k gold pendant, ring and earrings with pink tourmaline.

The rising price of gold has caused many jewelry designers and manufacturers to find creative ways to lighten the amount of the precious metal they use for their jewelry. Not John Petet. At the Buyers Market of American Craft, held February 17-21 in Philadelphia, he said he is still creating his textured gold jewelry designs in the same manner that has given his fairly young company, J. Petet Designs, a strong following.

After spending a career working for others, the Monument, Colo., resident founded his jewelry design business in 2002. One of the persons who helped him get started was his neighbor, jewelry designer Barbara Westwood, who recently graced this publication.

Organic forms, clean lines and geometric shapes are at the heart of his designs. Westwood’s influence could be seen in the stone carvings, as he uses some of the same master gem carvers, such as Steve Walters and Dieter Lorenz, as Westwood. However, the most importance aspect of his work is his adherence to texture.

“My work is not typically seen in a jewelry store,” he said. “I’m very heavy into creating new textured patterns and concepts.”

The gold jewelry collection above is a good example of how Petet uses texture, as wavelike lines move across the round pieces, giving them dimension and motion.

Colorful Enamel Jewelry from Magick

24k gold cloisonné enameling set in 18k yellow gold with garnets and diamonds (2 ct.).

Color has been a trend in the jewelry industry in recent years, primarily because of the economic recession as designers and manufacturers look to embellish their jewelry with colored gemstones and less expensive colored diamonds. However, very few have delved into the painstaking work of enamel jewelry that the company, Magick, has been doing for more than 25 years.

Without trying, the Fairfield, Calif.-based company is a trend-setter in the use of color, design techniques and materials. The company, founded by Denmark native Falcher Fusager,  specializes in jewelry created through the cloisonné technique of enameling, he said during the Buyers Market of American Craft show, held February 17-21 in Philadelphia. This is done by cutting and bending 24k gold wires to create the outline of a design. Then each cell (cloison in French) within the wires is filled with different colors of enamel to create a shaded effect. The color is built up over many thin layers—with each layer fired in a 1,450 degree Fahrenheit kiln until it reaches its melting point and fuses to the previous layer. The resulting gem is cut, polished and set in gold.

24k gold cloisonné enameling set in 14k yellow gold.

Often embellished with diamonds and gemstones, the results are a full range of jewelry with a striking appearance. The colors are rich and vibrant, often in circular or curved patterns. Even though there is separation between the cells with wires, in many cases the colors seem to blend into one another. There is contrast and separation of colors. It has the playfulness of a kaleidoscopic effect but with a more thoughtful and deliberate purpose.

Decaying Wood Becomes Living Jewelry for Sarah Graham

Pendant made of oxidized cobalt chrome.

A decaying piece of wood found under an avocado tree turned into the inspiration of Sarah Graham’s latest line of jewelry.

Nature has always been the source of this accomplished California metalsmith's work, but lately she has taken her inspiration to new levels by employing different techniques and using new metals, she said during the Buyers Market of American Craft show in Philadelphia, February 17-21.

The inspiration. A piece of decaying wood found beneath an avocado tree.

For example, Graham has changed from being primarily someone who casts her creations to wax carvings. One of the materials she is using is oxidized cobalt chrome, a metal more known for its use in the medical industry for implants. “It’s a combination between nature and manmade materials,” she says.

Graham says that incorporating new techniques and materials “adds dimension” to her creations. “That’s important in jewelry,” she says.

Whether casted or carved Graham’ has always been skilled in creating nature-inspired jewelry with organic textures and surprising shapes and the new items on display at BMAC certainly reflect this. For example, the pendant pictured at top retains much of the same texture of her inspirational wood her interpretation of the shapes and textures adds something special to the nature-inspired design. The circular patterns of the oxidized cobalt chrome are slightly different. Lines along the chrome add another dimension of texture not evident in the decaying wood.

Buffalo Symbolizes Marriage, Inspires Jewelry Design Business

A golden bird on a silver branch with opal flowers.

How often do businesses begin with an act of love inspired by the animal kingdom as seen on YouTube?

Manya Tessler and Roumen Vragov wanted to seal their marriage with a self-made ring. At the time, they were not jewelry designers but Tessler worked with clay and was able to create a ring. Vragov decided the inspiration for the ring should be a Buffalo. Why a Buffalo? Because the Brooklyn couple saw a YouTube video in which a pride of lions attack a herd of water buffalo. The lions, as they often do, went after the youngest prey and caught it. It looked the baby would be killed. However, the entire herd of water buffalo returned and saved the baby. It is an extremely dramatic video and I haven’t even mentioned the crocodile. The 18k yellow gold wedding ring (left) depicts two intertwined buffaloes.

“We thought it was a good symbol for family and loyalty and love,” Tessler said during the recent Buyers Market of American Craft show in Philadelphia. So a marriage was consummated and about a couple years later a business was born, Manya & Roumen.

Their work is based on flora and fauna pieces of many shapes and sizes. Given Tessler’s background the creations are extremely sculptural. They work with 18k gold, silver, colored gemstones and diamonds that are carved and sculpted into shapes with detail not normally found on items as small as jewelry. Some pieces even challenge the conventional nature of jewelry such as the ring they were displaying at BMAC (pictured at top), which goes on the index finger and runs across all the fingers. The ring depicts an 18k golden bird with its head slightly turned to one side resting on a sterling silver branch. The branch’s lines are detailed and appear worn, as one would expect on a mature tree. The flowers on the branch are carved pink opal.

For an added bonus, here’s the video that symbolizes their relationship and inspired their business.

Modern, Sleek Designs of Pierre-Yves Jewelry

A necklace made of 18K gray gold, 71.66ct amethyst center stone, tsavorite garnets, and 9mm-11.5mm Tahitian pearls.

“Modern architecture” is how Pierre-Yves Paquette describes his jewelry designs. The consistencies in his creations are the use of strong, sculptured lines,18k textured gold, and a subtle use of color. But within that framework he uses several techniques and a variety of materials to produce a breadth of finished pieces. His company, Pierre-Yves, was one of about 250 jewelry designers at the Buyers Market of American Craft in Philadelphia, held February 17-21.

The Canadian designer—who lives and works in Saint-Sauveur, Quebec—mixes his gold with sterling silver and copper in subtle combinations to produce yellow, gray and pink gold; and then combines the metal with diamonds, Tahitian pearls and an assortment of colored stones. He employs Mokume Gane, the ancient Japanese technique that brings out underlying textures and nuances of metals, but mixes it with more modern techniques.

He also has an eye for wearability, creating interchangeable pieces. “The different chains and pendants link together,” he said at his booth. “Mixing and deciding what jewelry you can wear instead of being stuck with one or two pieces.” He also creates sleek tension rings with colored gemstones and Mokume Gane patterns.
(above: tension ring using 18K gray gold and sterling silver mokume gane, 22K lemon, 0.35ct blue diamond.)

The Buyers Market of American Craft is a premiere wholesale trade show of art and luxury goods for home and fashion held each year at the Pennsylvania Convention Center in Philadelphia. There were about 250 jewelry exhibitors at this year’s show who employ a variety of materials and techniques to create commercially viable artistic statements. In addition to jewelry, products on display included art glass, furniture, home and fashion accessories, kitchen goods, toys and sculpture.

2011 Niche Award Winners in Jewelry Design

Oceanic Bangle Bracelet

The winners of the 2011 Niche Awards for jewelry were announced February 18 during the Buyers Market of American Craft show in Philadelphia. The Niche Awards annually celebrate excellence and innovation in American and Canadian craft. They are sponsored by the trade publication, Niche.

Judging was based on three main criteria:

• technical excellence, both in surface design and form
• a distinct quality of unique, original and creative thought
• market viability (professional entries only)

There will be more stories in the coming days from the BMAC show (held February 17-21). For now, the professional and student Niche award winners are as follows:

PROFESSIONAL AWARDS

 
Jewelry: Fashion
Swing
Wiwat Kamolpornwijit
Alexandria, Va.

 Jewelry: Fine
Fluted
Erik Stewart
Tucson, Ariz.

Jewelry: Gold (two winners)
Mother’s Brooch
Juan Carlos Caballero-Perez
Henrietta, N.Y.

 Mandala Ring #2
Jason Dow
Honolulu, Hawaii

Jewelry: Gold with Stones
Circle Disk Brooch with Gold and Pearls
Sadie Wang
Silver Point, Tenn.

 Jewelry: Sculpture to Wear
Oceanic Bangle Bracelet
Kevin O’Grady
Scottsdale, Ariz.


 

 Jewelry: Silver
Lunar Cycle Necklace
Genevieve Yang
Santa Rosa, Calif.

 Jewelry: Silver with Stones
Daisy Diamond Stem
Patricia Tschetter
Dallas

 Jewelry: Wedding
Orange Diamond Ceramic Engagement Ring
Etienne Perret
Camden, Maine




 STUDENT AWARDS

Jewelry: Fashion (two winners)
Finally Coming Home
Andrew Kuebeck
University of Indiana

 Night Blossom Brooch
Bongsang Cho
Savannah College of Art and Design

 Jewelry: Fine
The Laurel
Youngjoo Yoo
University of Iowa







Jewelry: Sculpture to Wear (two winners)
Untitled
Young Eun Tammy Kim
California State University





 

Patterns of Being
Sarah West
East Carolina University





In addition to jewelry, awards were given out in the following categories: Clocks, Ceramics, Fiber, Glass, Metal, Wood and Jewelry.