Beth Bernstein’s Book ‘If These Jewels Could Talk’ Set To Launch

Any day now writer and journalist Beth Bernstein will be celebrating the launch of her third book about jewelry. 

“If These Jewels Could Talk: The Legends Behind Celebrity Gems,” is part academic research, part a behind-the-scene look at celebrity and part emotional journey. With all of it involving jewels.

The book’s main focus is the glamour and glitz of Hollywood stars and their personal relationship with their gems and jewels primarily in the 20th Century, beginning at about the 1920s. However, political figures and others who celebrate the same style of the times also make their way onto the pages, including Coco Chanel, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Michelle Obama (a 21st Century figure). The book is filled with pictures and illustrations of jewels and their famous owners.

The book also looks at the impact of jewelry brands and their international growth and power in the high jewelry and fashion industries. They include Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co, Harry Winston, David Webb and Verdura. The book’s cover shows the ruby, diamond, gold and platinum “Sash Heart” brooch, 1941, created by Verdura. It was commissioned by actor Tyrone Power for his wife, Annabella, for Christmas.

“Throughout the 20th Century the world’s most fabulous jewels have held tremendous sentimental and symbolic value, as they are linked to the most significant moments and memories of Hollywood ‘royalty,’ aristocracy and international icons of style,” Bernstein says. 

The time period is important because it is when the world became a more connected place through the introduction of modern travel and communication. The cultural influences of the Hollywood film industry spread to Europe while European style made its way to the US through the proliferation of magazines, movies and later television. This was the time that small European jewelry houses became international businesses with a huge influence on fashion. And it was the beginning of the influence celebrity fame and culture throughout the world. Stars and what they wore had a direct influence on mass appeal (as they do today) and the smarter and better-connected jewelry houses did their best to adorn these influencers with their jewels. 

Bernstein—a jewelry journalist for various publications and author of two previous books, and a jewelry historian—provides the personal tastes, anecdotes and the stories of the women who wore and collected the pieces. They include Elizabeth Taylor, the world’s most famous jewelry collector of the period, and socialite Helena Rubinstein who went out and bought her own pieces after arguments with her husband, dubbing them her “quarrel jewelry.” 

Wallis Simpson’s love story was told through her jewels. Grace Kelly’s emerald cut Cartier engagement ring appeared with her in the film, “High Society.” Marlene Dietrich was a collector who wore her jewels in several of her films.

There are also examples of jewels being a major influence on the plot of the film, such as the Cartier diamond bracelet in Alfred Hitchcock’s “Lifeboat” and the Harry Winston diamond necklace in “Notorious.” 

The hardcover book, published by ACC Art Books, is $95 and will be available in the coming days. A launch party for the book will be held Thursday at Doyle & Doyle in New York, which specializes in vintage, antique, and estate jewelry. 

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Suzanne Syz New High Jewelry And Her Elizabeth Taylor Connection

'Ali Baba's Trove' titanium ring topped with a 55-carat Mozambique paraiba with reverse-set diamonds that appear like spikes.

Suzanne Syz, an interior decorator and avid modern art collector, was frustrated with the luxury jewelry that was available—which she found heavy, uncomfortable and designed for a bygone era. 

“It tended to make you look older,” Syz said in a New York hotel room where she was showing her new collection to clients and press. Their public unveiling will be at Masterpiece London, June 25 – July 1. 

Mushroom brooch and ring with yellow gold and silver paved with diamonds and sprinkled with red spinels and emeralds.

This frustration led her to start creating her own jewelry about 15 years ago. One of her first pieces was a turquoise necklace that she wore to lunch with none other than Elizabeth Taylor. The iconic actress and world famous jewelry collector admired the necklace so much that she bought it.

It was quite a way to start a career. Since then, in a relatively short amount of time, Syz has developed a reputation for being one of the world’s top high jewelry artists. Under the name Suzanne Syz Art Jewels, she and her small staff of craftsmen produce about 50 one-of-kind pieces per year from a workshop in Geneva where she lives. It is the only place where one can buy her jewelry outside of her travels. Her clientele, as one would expect, are those with wealth, power and taste. They include Princess Glora von Thurn und Taxis, the Archduchess Francesca von Habsburg-Thyssen and actress Michelle Yeoh.

Sapphire earrings encased micropearls that is airy and delicate in appearance while being durable and flexible

Her pieces are light and lively and are contemporary interpretations of traditional high jewelry themes—such as nature, childhood and fairy tales. She will use pretty much any gem or metal as long as it is of high quality and often finds new uses for traditional materials. 

Her appreciation of contemporary art began in the 1980s when she lived in New York and ran in the same circles as Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Jeff Koons. Her jewelry reflects those influences. 

Titanium cuff enhanced with large sliced diamonds

“My pieces are understated, fun and on the creative side—while always using the best materials,” she says.

Titanium is used for many pieces in her new collection. She says gem colors really shine in contrast with the metal. She also admires its strength, durability and adaptability. It also is one of the lightest known metals. 

“I like it when you don’t see the material too much,” she says. “You can put stones in it without it getting heavy. Jewelry has to be comfortable.”

A purple Burmese sapphire cabochon is encased with twisted purple titanium sprinkled with diamonds 

In the new collection, titanium is used in many colors and often paved with colored gems or diamonds. A ring made of titanium is topped with a 55-carat Mozambique Paraiba. The side of the ring features reverse-set diamonds that appear like spikes and give the piece texture. Titanium strands are twisted and curved in a variety of different ways and paved with diamond or colored gems for rings and earrings. It also is used for a wide chunky (but lightweight) cuff, enhanced with large sliced diamonds.

Gems range from green-blue Mozambican paraiba and pear-shaped red spinels to more traditional emeralds and blue sapphires. 

'Shanghai Lilly' Earrings in titanium, jade, sapphires and diamonds

One of the boldest pieces in the new collection is a mushroom brooch with yellow gold and silver paved with diamonds and sprinkled with red spinels and emeralds.

Tiny pearls “micropearls” are used in ways that challenged the craftsmen, Syz says. For example, curved rows of these pearls extend outward from an emerald for a ring; and they encase sapphire earrings in an elaborate egg-shaped cage that is both airy and delicate in appearance while being durable and flexible. 

Emerald ring with curved rows of micropearls

Syz says the fun and whimsy expressed in her pieces may fool admirers into not recognizing them as high-priced, high jewelry. That’s fine with Syz who prefers to not discuss pricing. 

“The stones look good, the wearer looks good. Nobody needs to know (the cost). Just you need to know.”

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New Book Presents Sparkling History of London Royal Jeweler, Wartski

“Wartski – The First 150 Years,” by Geoffrey Munn

Wartski, the 150-year-old London antique dealer, is perhaps best known for its “royal warrant of appointment,” as one of a handful of jewelers that supply goods and services to the royal family. The retail store just off New Bond Street is also known for its famous and well-heeled clientele and for its ever-changing collection of rare jewels and gems.

The person who has kept the store humming for more than 40 years is Geoffrey Munn, Wartski’s managing director. He is a masterful storyteller and one of the world’s leading experts in antique jewelry and other objects, particularly the work of Carl Fabergé. This blog has benefited from Munn’s expertise and his generosity on several occasions. 

Munn’s relationship with Wartski and its history are now detailed in a 300-page book titled, “Wartski - The First 150 Years.” The book by Munn documents the store’s famous transactions and his personal stories. The 61-year-old jeweler has worked at the store since he was 19, so he has personally experienced a significant part of the store’s history.

Geoffrey Munn inside Wartski in 2012. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Munn and the store made headlines about a year ago for being instrumental in identifying the long lost Third Imperial Fabergé Egg. It wasn’t the first time the store was the center of world attention and it won’t be the last. 

Munn is also well-known in the UK from his appearances on the BBC Antiques Road Show.

One chapter in Munn’s book, “The Great and the Good,” is devoted to the rich spectrum of Wartski customers. The list includes John F Kennedy, Sir Noel Coward, Merle Oberon, Tyrone Power, Ian Fleming, Dame Elizabeth Taylor, Barbara Hutton, Sir Alec Guinness, Dame Edith Sitwell, Bing Crosby, Frank Sinatra, Yul Brynner, Joan Rivers, Barbra Streisand, Sir Elton John and Dame Vivienne Westwood.

Another chapter is devoted to European royal patronage. Wartski has served six generations of the British Royal family, including Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother and Queen Elizabeth II. Welsh gold from was used by Wartski to make the wedding ring for Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, on her marriage to Prince William. Other Royal families with a close link to Wartski include those of Denmark, Greece, Spain and Yugoslavia.

Collectors have played a big part in the history of Wartski. Munn gives an insight into their compulsion and how Wartski has been instrumental in forming many remarkable collections, including those of Arthur E. Bradshaw, Malcolm Forbes and Marjorie Merriweather Post.

The book will be published by the Antique Collectors’ Club (ACC) and will be available in May for $125 or 65 British pounds sterling.

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‘Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century’ At Denver Art Museum

Flamingo brooch worn by Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1940. Platinum, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, citrine; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nils Herrmann

It was the most creative time for what is arguably the supreme international jeweler of the 20th Century.

Necklace worn by Elizabeth Taylor. Cartier Paris, 1951, altered in 1953. Platinum, diamonds, rubies. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

The Denver Art Museum is the sole venue worldwide for “Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century,” on view till March 15, 2015. The exhibition contains more than 250 pieces of jewelry, timepieces and precious objects produced between 1900 and 1975. Most of the pieces are from the jeweler’s “Cartier Collection,” with items on loan from other museums and private collections.

Tiara worn by Mrs. Townsend Cartier. Cartier Paris, special order, 1905. Platinum, diamonds; Height at center 9.8 cm. Provenance: Mary Scott Townsend and Mrs. Donald McElroy. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

Curated by Margaret Young-Sánchez, curator of the museum’s Frederick and Jan Mayer Center, the exhibition celebrates and chronicles the creative rise of Cartier in the 20th Century and its place in the dynamic history of the period.

Necklace worn by Countess of Granard. Cartier London, special order, 1932. Platinum, diamonds, emerald; Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

It was a time when old world royalty was being replaced by democratically elected governments and when captains of industry, world class entertainers and a handful of politicians stood on equal terms with the old aristocracy. Cartier stood at the intersection of this cultural change and took a leadership role, creating jewelry, timepieces and objects of art for some of the most important and famous people of the period. The exhibition has items belonging to the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco, Dame Elizabeth Taylor, Franklin D. Roosevelt and Mexican film star María Félix.

Engagement Ring worn by Princess Grace of Monaco.Cartier Paris, 1956. Platinum, one 10.48-carat emerald-cut diamond, two baguette- cut diamonds. Palais Princier de Monaco 

This is an exhibition for those who cherish Cartier’s most creative period when it was a family-owned firm (family members sold the business in 1964).

Crocodile Necklace made for Maria Félix.Cartier Paris, special order, 1975. Gold, diamonds, emeralds, rubies; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

“The evolution of Cartier takes us on a journey through 20th century history, from the era of the last czars in Russia to the Roaring ’20s in America to the onset of Hollywood glamour as we know it,” said Christoph Heinrich, director of the Frederick and Jan Mayer Center. “Focusing in on the creativity and pioneering vision of the Cartier brothers and their designers, visitors will walk away not only in awe of Cartier’s stunning works of art but also aware of the drastic cultural shifts that took place throughout the history of the maison.”

Laurel Leaf Tiara owned by Marie Bonaparte. Cartier Paris, 1907. Platinum and diamonds. Qatar Museums Authority.

Cartier’s international clientele reflected the rapid changes of the 20th Century. The jeweler’s rise took place in the context of an increasingly cosmopolitan cultural scene and aligned with international social, political and economic trends. The exhibition will present a selection of themes that span time periods and styles to display the influence and innovation of the jeweler.  

Tiger Lorgnette owned by Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1954. Gold, enamel, emeralds, glass. Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Nick Welsh

Exhibition themes include: 

* Aristocracy and Aspiration: Focusing on objects from 1900–1918, this section features diamond, sapphire, rock crystal and pearl jewelry and enameled decorative items that showcase a refined and elegant aesthetic embraced by European royalty and aristocrats—and the wealthy Americans who aspired to join their social class. 

Stomacher Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1907. Platinum, sapphires, diamonds. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art Deco: New Outlook: Cartier was a leader in the Art Deco movement of the 1910s to 1920s that highlighted a bold look with a new emphasis on color and geometry. The firm used new materials in this era such as jade, coral and black onyx.

Necklace created for Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala. Cartier Paris, special order, 1928. Platinum, diamonds, zirconias, topazes, synthetic rubies, smoky quartz, citrine; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh  

* Art Deco: Foreign Fascination: After World War I, Cartier created original designs that incorporated exotic styles and materials including imported carved jade, lacquer and faience. This style culminated in the colorful tutti-frutti jewelry and sculptural mystery clocks. 

Tutti Frutti Strap Bracelet worn by Mrs. Cole Porter.Cartier Paris, 1929. Platinum, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies. Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Masculine View: Louis Cartier is credited with inventing the modern men’s wristwatch. The exhibition includes numerous models and styles, in addition to elegant and complex pocket watches, cuff links, pocket items, cocktail and desk accessories, and inscribed cigarette cases. Historic events commemorated by inscribed gift items made by Cartier are featured in the exhibition. 

Santos wristwatch, Cartier Paris, 1915. Gold, sapphire, leather strap. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art of Smoking: Textured, enameled and jeweled cigar cutters, cigarette cases and lighters from 1907 through the 1940s. 

Five-Dial Clock owned by Franklin D. Roosevelt.Cartier New York, 1930. Ebonite, silver, nephrite, enamel, clock movement. Private collection. 

* Age of Glamour: Designs from the 1930s to 1960s preferred by celebrities and “Café Society.”  

Set of Three Clip Brooches worn by Princess Grace of Monaco. Cartier Paris, 1955. Platinum, brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, three cabochon rubies weighing approximately 49 carats. Palais Princier de Monaco.  

More photographs from the exhibition can be viewed by following this link. 

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Famous Bulgari Jewelry on Display in San Francisco

“Tubogas” choker, 1974; two-color gold with Greek silver coins. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 404 N607. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

By Maria Ling,
Assistant Editor

One more reason to spend the holidays in San Francisco is the ongoing exhibition of Bulgari jewelry at the de Young Museum. 

“The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond 1950 - 1990,” is an exhibition of approximately 150 pieces created by the renowned Italian jeweler over four decades. It highlights jewelry that defined a pivotal period in Italian design, and includes pieces from the personal collections of Elizabeth Taylor, Ellen Barkin and other famous names. The exhibition will run through February 17, 2014.

Sautoir, 1969, platinum with sapphires and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Elizabeth Taylor. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 6675 N2170 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Bulgari notably began to create its own trademark in jewelry in the 1960s by embracing boldly-colored combinations of gemstones, use of heavy gold, and forms derived from Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. The company helped to develop a look that would come to be known as the “Italian school” of jewelry design. Pieces in the exhibition display the jeweler’s eclectic creativity and invention during this period.

Bracelets, 1955 and 1959; platinum with diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Ellen Barkin. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 4924 B527, 4925 B528 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

Works in the exhibition also include those from the 1970s and 80s, a particularly innovative period for the jeweler and one influenced by Pop Art and other contemporary trends. 

“Parentesi” parure, ca. 1982; Gold with diamonds. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 5063 E173, 5068 N1500, 5072 B508 © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte.

“The hard-edged designs of the 1970s included a whole range based on the Stars-and-Stripes motif, while in the 1980s the Parentesi collection had a smoother, modular, almost architectural presence; both show how the jeweler could lead in new directions with a strong sense of design,” said Martin Chapman, curator in charge of European Decorative Arts and Sculpture at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

“Bib” necklace, 1965; Gold with emeralds, amethysts, turquoise, and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Lyn Revson. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 401 N565. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte

Bulgari’s successful cultivation of prominent patrons and movie stars like Sophia Loren, Ingrid Bergman, and perhaps most notably, Elizabeth Taylor, has long been a key aspect of the jeweler’s reputation. 

To help explore the cultural context in which these objects were made, the exhibition will include sketches, photographs, and other archival materials that help to reveal an intersection of celebrity, design and fine craftsmanship.

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Gina Lollobrigida’s Natural Pearl Ear Pendants Breaks Elizabeth Taylor’s Auction Record, Sells for $2.4 Million

Gina Lollobrigida wearing the diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, as a tiara and the record-breaking natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings.

Jewels belonging to movie legend Gina Lollobrigida sold at Sotheby’s Geneva Tuesday for more than $4.9 million (including buyers’ premium), smashing the high estimate of $3.2 million.

The star of evening was a pair of natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings, believed to have been owned by the House of Habsburg, which sold for nearly $2.4 million—an an auction record for a pair of natural pearl ear pendants, beating the figure set by Elizabeth Taylor’s pearl earrings in 2011. Lollobrigida wore those earrings on numerous landmark occasions in her career.

Buyers from around the world also clamored for seminal pieces from the 1950s and 1960s by Bulgari, the auction house said. Lollobrigida is donating her proceeds from the sale to benefit stem cell research. Among the highlights:

* A diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, which realized $783,851, well above the $500,000 high estimate. The necklace was identified by Daniela Mascetti as one of Bulgari’s most important creations in her book Bulgari. Lollobrigida was seen wearing this jewel on key moments in her professional and personal life, including when she received her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female.

* A diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, Bulgari, 1962, which brought $783,851.

* A pair of emerald and diamond earclips, Bulgari, 1964, which sold for $306,633.

* An emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats which fetched $181,050.

View Gina Lollobrigida’s jewels in the Sotheby’s Geneva auction.

Speaking after the sale, Lollobrigida said: “Jewels are meant to give pleasure and for many years I had enormous pleasure wearing mine. Many people tried to persuade me to sell them, but for a very long time I was unwilling. What changed was seeing a little girl called Sofia suffering from a disorder, which could only be helped by stem cell treatment—treatment which she is unable to receive in Italy. Selling my jewels to help raise awareness of stem cell therapy, which can cure so many illnesses, seems to me a wonderful use to which to put them. It is my hope that the Italian parliament will approve this ground-breaking treatment, so that children and adults in Italy should have free access to it without having to travel abroad at great expense. It now gives me great pleasure to see that these jewels will create a legacy which will live on after me and continue to do good.”

Lollobrigida’s collection was the centerpiece of Sotheby’s Magnificent and Noble Jewels sale Tuesday, which saw nearly 650 lots selling for a combined total of $78.2 million. 

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Bulgari Unveils Elizabeth Taylor’s Jewels

Julianne Moore wearing the Elizabeth Taylor emerald and diamond
necklace. Photo credit: Getty Images

Italian luxury jewelry house, Bulgari, officially opened its Rodeo Drive boutique Tuesday in true Hollywood fashion with an intimate viewing of some of its greatest creations owned by Elizabeth Taylor. It included the famed mirror Taylor used on the set of the movie, Cleopatra, a sapphire and diamond sautoir and a set of emerald and diamond jewelry.

Items on display at the Bulgari Rodeo Drive boutique. Photo credit: Getty Images

The highlight of the evening, according to reports, was when actress Julianne Moore, a longtime ambassador for Bulgari, strolled into the event wearing the emerald and diamond necklace from the suite, which features the 83.5-carat emerald pendant. It was the first time anyone other than Taylor had worn the necklace. Other Hollywood stars who attended the event included Kirsten Dunst, Drew Barrymore, Naomi Watts, and Clotilde Courau.

Drew Barrymore and the Cleopatra mirror. Photo credit: Getty Images

For those who did not receive an invitation, fear not, as the eight-piece exhibition—all purchased by Bulgari at the auction of Taylor’s jewelry at Christie’s New York in December—will be on display at the store until March 10.

View more pictures from the party on the Bulgari Facebook page by following this link.

Read more about the jewelry on display by following this link.

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Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari Jewelry Exhibit on Rodeo Drive

Elizabeth Taylor sapphire and diamond sautoir will be among the Bulgari jewels on display.

Elizabeth Taylor fans will have another opportunity to view some of the most important jewels from her legendary collection.

The Beverly Hills Bulgari boutique on Rodeo Drive will showcase an eight-piece exhibit of Elizabeth Taylor’s jewels on Tuesday, according to published reports. The jewels are on display as a preview to the Academy Awards, which will be held Sunday.

Emerald and diamond suite.

The Italian luxury jewelry house purchased its own pieces during the record-breaking auction of Elizabeth Taylor’s jewels held at Christie’s New York in December 2011. Among the items on display are an emerald and diamond necklace that it bought for $6.1 million, setting records for an emerald jewel and emerald per carat; and an 8.26-carat emerald and diamond pendant brooch that Bulgari purchased for $6.5 million (both pictured above as part of the emerald and diamond suite). The brooch was Taylor's first piece of Bulgari jewelry, according to reports.

Another item is a sapphire and diamond sautoir that Bulgari bought at the auction for $5.9 million (top photo).

A special preview of the display will be held Tuesday from 11:30 a.m. till 1:30 p.m., according to reports.

Follow this link to view more of Taylor's jewels from the Christie's New York auction.

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Record Breaking Jewelry Moments Worthy of Olympic Gold

Christie’s employees taking phone bids during The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor auction at Christie’s New York. Photo credit: Christie’s

As the 2012 London Summer Olympics winds down, it got me thinking about some of the great moments in history as it pertains to jewelry, gemstones and precious metals. Wealth and power throughout time has often been measured in the ownership of the most valuable and desirable adornment. Often the stories of precious ornaments ran alongside the rise and fall of kingdoms. Below is just short listing of some of the milestone moments. Please feel free to add more.

* The Most Valuable Sale of Jewelry in Auction History. “The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor” auction held at Christie’s New York in December 2011. Following a worldwide tour and a 10-day exhibition at Christie’s New York, the two-day sale of Ms. Taylor’s jewelry took in approximately $137.2 million. The opening night jewelry sale (December 13) alone set seven world auction records for some of the most important jewels in the world, including:

La Peregrina. Photo credit: Christie's

- The World Auction Record for a Pearl Jewel. “La Peregrina,” one of the most famous pearls in the world with a history that spans 500 years, on a necklace designed by Cartier for Taylor, sold for $11.8 million. It is believed to have been found by an African slave on the coast of the isle of Santa Margarita in the Gulf of Panama in the mid-16th Century or as early as the 15th Century. This pear-shaped pearl of 203 grains in size—equivalent to 55 cts.—became part of the crown jewels of Spain. Prince Philip II of Spain gave it as a wedding gift to his wife, Mary Tudor of England. It was passed on to the Spanish queens Margarita and Isabel, who wore the pearl in 17th century portraits painted by Velázquez. Richard Burton famously purchased the pearl for Elizabeth Taylor at auction in 1969 for $37,000, after successfully outbidding a member of the Spanish Royal family. Burton gave the pearl to Taylor on Jan. 23, 1969. Inspired by a 16th century portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, who wore it as a pendant to a brooch, Taylor commissioned Cartier to design a new mount of matched natural pearls and rubies, designed by Al Durante.

Elizabeth Taylor Diamond. Photo credit: Christie's

- The World Auction Record for a Colorless Diamond Per Carat. The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond (also known as the Burton-Taylor Diamond). The 33.19-carat Asscher-cut D color potentially flawless diamond sold for more than $8.8 million, or $265,697 per carat. The 33.19-ct., D color, potentially internally flawless diamond mounted on a ring was a gift from Richard Burton on May 16, 1968. The most iconic of her cherished white diamonds, it became the ring Ms. Taylor wore almost every day. The Type IIa diamond was purchased at auction for $300,000 in 1968 as the Krupp diamond. It is also known as the Taylor-Burton diamond.

Taj Mahal Diamond. Photo credit: Christie's

- The World Auction Record for an Indian Jewel. The heart-shaped Taj Mahal Diamond that sold for more than $8.8 million. Inscribed with the name Nur Jahan, the wife of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahangir, this heart-shaped diamond is believed to have been a gift from the ruler to his son, who became the great emperor Shah Jahan (1592-1666). At the age of 35, it is believed that the young prince presented the diamond to his favorite and most beloved wife, Mumtaz-i-Mahal. The emperor’s grief at her death just four years later was legendary—in her memory he commissioned the majestic Taj Mahal. Richard Burton gave it to Ms. Taylor in 1972 for her 40th birthday.

Joseph Asscher Photo credit: Royal Asscher

* The World’s Largest Rough Diamond. The 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond uncovered in 1907 by Frederick Wells at the Premier Mine in Pretoria, South Africa. Wells presented the diamond to Sir Thomas Cullinan, who owned the mine. Cullinan then sold the diamond to the Transvaal provincial government, which presented the stone to Britain's King Edward VII entrusted the cutting of the Cullinan to Joseph Asscher, head of the Asscher Diamond Company of Amsterdam. Asscher studied the stone for six months before attempting the cut. Legend has it that on his first attempt, the steel blade broke, with no effect on the diamond. On the second attempt, the diamond shattered exactly as planned; Asscher then fainted from nervous exhaustion. Lita Asscher, president of Royal Asscher of America and sixth generation heir to the family business, says her family has their own spin on the story: “We always say that he did not faint. He drank too much champagne (after cutting the diamond) and then he fainted.”

"Star of Africa I," or "Cullinan I" Photo credit: Royal Asscher

* The World’s Largest Cut Diamond. The Cullinan was later cut into nine large stones and about 100 smaller ones. The largest stone is called the "Star of Africa I," or "Cullinan I," and at 530 carats, it is the largest-cut fine-quality colorless diamond in the world. The second largest stone, the "Star of Africa II" or "Cullinan II," is 317 carats. Both of these stones, as well as the "Cullinan III," are on display in the Tower of London with Britain's other crown jewels; the Cullinan I is mounted in the British Sovereign's Royal Scepter, while the Cullinan II sits in the Imperial State Crown.

Cullinan I was the largest diamond in the world until 1987. The Golden Jubilee Diamond now has that honor. At 545.67 carats, it outweighs the Cullinan I by 15.37 carats. The yellow-brown diamond in a fire rose cushion cut was purchased from De Beers by a group led by Henry Ho of Thailand and given to Thai King Bhumibol Adulyadej in honor of his 50th coronation anniversary. It is now located in the Royal Thai Palace as part of the crown jewels.

Faberge Siberian aquamarine and diamond brooch was a gift from Tsar Nicholas II to princess Alix of Hesse. They were executed July 17,1918, and she was wearing the jewel right up until the time of her death. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The World’s Best Story Attached to a Piece of Jewelry. A Siberian aquamarine Fabergé brooch that Russian Tsar Nicholas II gave to princess Alix of Hesse as an engagement gift. I saw this piece at Wartski jewelry antique store in London, best known as the “royal warrant of appointment,” one of a handful of companies that supply goods and services to the British Royal Family. Geoffrey Munn, the store’s managing director Fabergé told the story behind the brooch:

In here we have a Fabergé brooch, a Siberian aquamarine surrounded by diamonds. That’s all we knew for a while. It’s an exemplary aquamarine and it’s of extraordinary color. (women in the group gasp with amazement). I know, I know it’s fabulous. (But) it’s only the beginning of the trouble. Because this really is going to wreck you and you’ll need a stiff drink afterwards. It’s an exemplary aquamarine and it’s a Siberian one and they don’t really come in that color unless they do come from Siberia.… The story of this is really quite awe inspiring because the color blue in the lore of lapidary stones stands for love and then there’s sort of the interlock of two lives with diamonds forever. And that’s all we knew for a very long time until my colleague sent off the number to Russia and back came the provenance and it said that it was bought by the Supreme Autocrat of all the Russias—a pretty hot title—and there’s a note beside it saying it was the engagement present from (Russian Tsar) Nicholas II to princess Alix of Hesse. And that is sort of stratospheric. But then what happens later is even more heartbreaking because when they were taken to prison in Siberia (during the Bolshevik Revolution), they went to a place called The House of Special Purpose—a very menacing title—and you know what happens next but this (the jewel) was with her just before she was taken to the basement and riddled with gunfire. It was confiscated and it isn’t actually open to debate because it was a civil service theft and so they made an inventory of what they’ve taken from her and they photographed it on the table so you don’t hear any fanciful stories. I think possibly that’s as far as jewelry will ever take you.

Tsarevna Swan

* Most Diamonds Set on a Single Ring. Could this be an object that will hold a history of its own? The “Tsarevna Swan,” a tall, highly stylized 18k white gold ring set a Guinness World Record for having the most cut diamonds on a ring: 2,525. It was unveiled in 2011 by the Lobortas Classic Jewellery House of Kiev, Ukraine. Regardless of whether this will capture the imagination of future generations of jewelry collectors, it is a great accomplishment.

As I mentioned, you are welcome add anything that I have missed.

Harry Winston Diamond Earrings Could Fetch Nearly $4 Million at Christie’s Geneva Sale

Pear-shaped diamond earrings by Harry Winston estimated to fetch $3.2 million and $3.9 million. Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

Pear-shaped diamond earrings by Harry Winston weighing 16.21 and 15.67 carats is the top lot of the May 16 Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. The set of D/VVS2, potentially flawless diamond earrings is expected to fetch $3.2 million and $3.9 million.

More than 340 lots estimated to bring in more than $50 million will be offered by the auction house in Geneva, including a colored diamond ring (whose history is closely linked to Hollywood legends Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton), jewelry that once belonged to Mexian movie icon Maria Felix, a diamond tiara commissioned for the wedding of Count Carlo Raggio and Marchioness Tea Spinola in 1909, and a collection of Cartier cats.

Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

A 12.6-carat fancy brown-orange diamond ring (pictured above) that was offered to Elizabeth Taylor by Richard Burton in 1975 while they were in Africa is estimated at $600,000 – $800,000. Taylor refused the present, arguing that the money should be spent for building a hospital in Botswana.

Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

Other significant items include a diamond flower brooch (pictured above) that is expected to fetch $2.5 million – $3 million and a 33.07-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire ring that is estimated to sell for 2.5 million – $3 million.

Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

A Belle Epoque old-cut diamond tiara (pictured above) was part of a large group of exceptional jewels, specially commissioned by Italian jeweler Filippo Chiappe (1863-1936), for the wedding of Count Carlo Raggio and Marchioness Tea Spinola in 1909. Appointed court jeweler to the Savoy House and official supplier to the Italian Royal Family in 1913, Filippo Chiappe is one of the most famous Italian jewelers of his time. It has an estimate of $320,000 – $530,000.

Photo Credit: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2012

Jeanne Toussaint, appointed director of jewellery at Cartier in 1933, is credited with the creation of “Big Cat” jewelry. The Duke of Windsor commissioned a panther brooch in the late 1940s, and since then the panther has become an iconic Cartier motif. A great example of the legendary “Big Cat” series is a diamond, colored diamond, onyx and emerald tiger brooch created by Cartier in the 1960s. Designed as a tiger hanging from a baguette-cut diamond hoop, its body, tail and head set with yellow diamonds and onyx, its estimate is $290,000 – $380,000.

The highlight of a section dedicated to antique Indian jewels is the set of diamond, enamel and gold jewelry from the collection of Mexican movie legend María Félix (1914-2002). Comprising of a brooch designed as a Mughal tulip set with table-cut diamonds, a bracelet set with octagonal and pear shaped table-cut diamonds, a necklace centering upon a table-cut diamond flower-head with old-cut diamond leaves, and a pair of modern ear pendants, designed as diamond flower-heads, this set dates back to the 19th century and will be offered as a single lot with an estimate of $1 million to $1.5 million.

Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale will be held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, May 16 at 2 p.m. and 7 p.m. Viewings in Geneva will be held May 11 till May 16.