Audemars Piguet, Swarovski and Gemfields Woo Art Lovers At Art Basel Miami Beach

An aerial view of the “Curiosity” exhibit, commissioned by Audemars Piguet for Art Basel Miami Beach.

Luxury brands like to be where the wealthy mingle which leads them to support events like the recently concluded Art Basel Miami Beach. Among the companies jockeying for a marketing advantage by associating with the finest works in modern and contemporary art were Swiss luxury watch manufacturer, Audemars Piguet, luxury crystal manufacturer, Swarovski and colored gemstone, mining and marketing company, Gemfields.

A closer view of the “Curiosity” installation. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Audemars Piguet has been out front in its support of Art Basel. In May, the company announced that it has signed on as a “Global Associate Partner” with its three fairs in Basel, Switzerland, Miami Beach and Hong Kong.

A close look at the "snow" covering the chalet and the drawing of the wood grain. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

In Miami, the company partnered with contemporary Parisian art gallery Galerie Perrotin by presenting a new site-specific work by French artist duo Kolkoz. The installation, titled “Curiosity,” came in the form of floating snow covered Swiss Chalet placed off the pier of the Miami Marine Stadium on Virginia Key.

The graffiti-filled site has been closed for more than 20 years and at first glance didn’t seem like a suitable place for an art installation befitting a luxury watch brand. However, it turns out that was one of the reasons the site on nearby Virginia Key was chosen. The other was the water and the heat of a typical South Florida day, which also contrasts with the snowy winter scene. The “snow-covered” chalet and pier from a distance appears to just pop up out of the water. Up close it’s easy to see that the pier is covered in a white fabric while the “chalet” is an inflatable house similar to an inflatable play station for children.

Clever and playful, this installation provides a proper setting in a number of ways. It alludes to Audemars Piguet’s wintry home in the Vallée du Joux and it gives focus to the marine stadium. The stadium, which was forced to shut down following the destruction of Hurricane Andrew in 1992, is being slated for a complete renovation.

The watch brand also had a large display of its watches in the Art Basel Miami beach “Collectors’ Lounge,” which included a retrospective of its Royal Oak watch.

An art collaboration with Brazilian architect and designer Guilherme Torres and Swarovski Crystal Palace.

In the contemporary art world South America is hot and Brazil is the epicenter of this hotness. Taking advantage of this, Swarovski Crystal Palace—a program created by the crystal company where it collaborates with artists, architects and designers to create works of art with Swarovski crystal components—teamed with Brazilian architect Guilherme Torres to create the roots of a Mangrove tree in an installation titled “Mangue Groove” that focuses on conservation for Design Miami, a contemporary art show held alongside Art Basel Miami Beach.

The installation takes the form of an abstract diagram that describes the division of spaces into cells with corresponding focal points, combined with the mangrove-root imagery. The artwork used design angled structures of acrylic tubes filled with amber-colored Swarovski crystals and illuminated from within by LEDs. The metal joints of the structures are covered with dodecahedron-shaped wooden caps. These “root” structures, which Torres wanted to look “as if they were made of crystals,” are set into shallow pools of water, against a backdrop of projections of an Amazonian sunset.

Torres used the 2014 arrival in Brazil of Swarovski Waterschool, a project that teaches children about water conservation. Water is a key component in the manufacture of Swarovski’s crystals, as the theme. However, he said he didn’t want to make obvious references to it.

Gemfields made its presence known not with an art installation but with a movie project titled, “React to Film,” by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. The emerald and now amethyst mining and marketing company sponsored an event at the outside orchid gardens of the Delano Hotel (still cool after all these years). The event featured three five-minute documentaries of three groundbreaking modern artists, John Baldessari, Ed Ruscha, and David Hockney, by young filmmakers, Henry Joost & Ariel Schulman, Lance Accord and Lucy Walker.

The event gave Gemfields the opportunity to show its own promotional film of its Kagem emerald mine in Zambia, starring its ambassador, Mila Kunis. It provided an opportunity for a company that owns the Fabergé luxury brand and commissions one-of-a-kind jewelry from internationally known designers to associate its company with great artists.

Assistant Editor Maria Ling contributed to this story.

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Gold, Diamonds and Crystals Glitter, Sparkle, and Shine at Las Vegas Jewelry Week

The World Gold Council's LoveGold exhibit at Couture.

Not everything was for sale at the jewelry shows in Las Vegas this past week although I suppose someone could have purchased the 27-pound gold bar valued at more than $500,000 from the LoveGold Exhibit at the Couture jewelry show.

Gold jewelry from Couture Show jewelry exhibitors.

Up on a stage above the tradeshow exhibitors at Wynn Las Vegas, the World Gold Council’s exhibition included art creations, curated gold jewelry used at red carpet events and selected gold pieces from the vendors at the tradeshow. LoveGold is the fashion jewelry initiative of the WGC, the marketing development organization of the gold industry.

One of the gold fashion displays at the LoveGold exhibit.

Many of the pieces were from the catwalk at Cannes where they were part of a special fashion show that was curated by Carine Roitfeld, the former editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris, to benefit amfAR, the foundation for AIDS research.

“We want to showcase the best that gold can be regardless of origin or price point,” said Sally Morrison of the World Gold Council. “The exhibition at Couture was a way of introducing the beginning of this activity to the brands and press at the show.”

A display at the "Diamonds with a Story" Rio Tinto Diamonds exhibition that highlights diamond origins.

As previously noted, Rio Tinto Diamonds presented an exhibition at the JCK Luxury and JCK Las Vegas tradeshows titled “Diamonds with a Story.” It featured jewelry created for the US market by eight North American designers based on the following four topics: “Origin,” “Cutting Impact,” “Mixed Medium” and “Color My World.” The designers created their works using Rio Tinto's colored diamonds from its Argyle mine in Australia and white diamonds from its Diavik mine in Northwestern Canada.

Varieties of Rio Tinto diamonds.

The exhibit is part of a marketing program by the mining company for the jewelry trade based on its own consumer research. The jewelry collections based on the four stories identify consumers' desire for the following attributes:

• Identifying the place of origin of the diamond they buy;
• Knowing that their diamond purchase is having a positive impact;
• Differentiating designs and concepts; and
• Access to natural colored diamonds

“We are excited by how well the 'Diamonds with a Story' platform is resonating," said Rebecca Foerster, manager of Rio Tinto Diamonds US Representative Office. “This appetite for innovation is good news for miners, manufacturers, retailers and ultimately the consumer.”

Elaborate and colorful jewelry design by David Mandel, part of the Swarovski Elements exhibit at JCL Las Vegas.

Swarovski Elements, the premium brand division of the world-renowned crystal company, Swarovski, provided a fashion-forward jewelry exhibition at JCK Las Vegas called “World Jewelry Facets,” featuring collaborations with designers and artists representing several mediums who created colorful designs using Swarovski crystal.

A necklace by Tim Hosier and Brian Thorson.

The creations ranged from elaborate, fanciful designs to more wearable pieces. Designers included Tim Hosier and Brian Thorson, known for their home accessories designs, to entertainment industry designer David Mandel.

Jewelry by American artists at the Swarovski Elements exhibit

There is also a charitable element with designs created by Senhoa, a non-profit organization and fashion brand that produces jewelry made by survivors of human trafficking. The Senhoa line on display was designed by Canadian model, Coco Rocha, and handcrafted by survivors of exploitation in Cambodia.

Jewelry by the non-profit organization and fashion brand, Senhoa, handcrafted by survivors of exploitation in Cambodia,

 
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Jewelry and Watch Brands Digital Media Efforts get Failing Grades

Brands held by public companies have a sigificant advantage online, arguably as a result of the emphasis placed on innovation, L2 says. Public comapnies not affilated with a larger organization demonstrated the biggest Digital IQ gains.

The world has largely turned to digital mediums for their consumer information, to purchase products and to share their thoughts about these products and brands with others. Most industries have learned how to harness the power of the Internet, social media and wireless mediums to build their brand image and increase sales. But according to one study, the luxury jewelry and watch industries are lagging far behind nearly all others in using these digital platforms to gain a presence in an area where consumers continue to turn.

Nearly two-third of the jewelry and watch brands surveyed were classified as “Challenged” or “Feeble,” based on the findings of the Digital IQ Index: Watches & Jewelry. Only two brands, Tiffany & Co. and Swarovski, achieved “Genius” and “Gifted” classifications, (respectively).

“Gray market concerns, counterfeit fears, limited pricing transparency, and retailer conflict all present obstacles for organizations in this category to build and sell their brands online,” the survey by L2, a membership-based consultancy that bills itself as a “think tank for digital innovation.” “However, with 67 percent of consumers in the EU and half of those in the U.S. indicating that they research luxury goods online before making a purchase, do watches and jewelry brands really have a choice?”

The top ten brands in the study are:

1. Tiffany & Co.

2. Swarovski

3. Jaeger-LeCoultre

4. David Yurman

5. Cartier

6. Omega

7. TAG Heuer

8. Longines

9. Montblanc (tied)

9. Pandora (tied)

  

Other key findings in the study of 35 jewelry and watch brands:

* Just 29 percent of brands in the Index boast e-commerce capabilities. In a category where third-party distribution is not going away anytime soon, the missed opportunity online to drive customers to offline retail is even more disappointing.

* All but three brands in the Index maintain a presence on Facebook, with communities averaging more than 200,000 fans. Mobile site adoption is up from just seven percent in 2010 to 39 percent this year. In addition, brands are beginning to abandon flash-heavy sites that are difficult to navigate in favor of more streamlined experiences that are more searchable, shareable and product-centric.

* With a YouTube channel launch and updates to its iPad, Cartier is one of this year’s biggest winners; however, the brand still only notches an Average IQ classification. The biggest disappointment is industry heavyweight Rolex, which has fallen from Gifted in 2009 to Feeble this year. Iconic brands are falling behind.

* Less than half of brands included in the study are purchasing their own brand keywords, and thus fail to appear in the top-three paid ads of their search pages. Instead, e-tailers, flash-sale sites, and discounters are seizing this valuable search engine real estate. Google is another “door to the store.” By not addressing paid ads, brands are essentially displaying discounted merchandise in the windows of their largest retail locations.

“The Watches & Jewelry industry is running out of time online,” says Scott Galloway, L2 founder. “Although these brands are beginning to invest in social media and mobile, transaction-orientation and digital marketing competence such as search, email, and retargeting lag other industries.”

For the survey, L2 used a four-tier ranking methodology: Website functionality, content and brand translation accounts for 35 percent; digital marketing, 25 percent; social media, 25 percent; and mobile, 15 percent.

Jewelry and Watch Brands Score Low on their Digital IQ

E-tailers and department stores lead the rankings and Jewelry & Watches and Accessory brands lag behind in their digital IQ.  Image source: Digital IQ Index: Specialty Retail, L2

E-tailers have the highest digital IQ, department stores saw the largest gain in their digital IQ during the past year and the digital IQ of home furnishings brands fell from the prior year. However, it is jewelry and watch brands who rate below every category with the exception of accessories.

The good news is that with a score of 68 the jewelry and watch category “vastly improved (over 2010 results) as brands began making investments in social media,” according to L2, a digital think tank, which published the ranking of 64 companies in eight specialty categories.

For its second annual survey titled, Digital IQ Index: Specialty Retail, L2 based its ranking on the following criteria:

* Website functionality, content and brand translation, 30 percent;

* Digital marketing, 30 percent;

* Social media 20 percent; and

* Mobile, 20 percent

This year’s rankings placed a stronger emphasis on the explosion of mobile purchasing (m-commerce) and the exceptional growth of facebook as both a social media marketing tool and as a newly minted e-commerce platform, known as f-commerce.

Based on the criteria, a scoring methodology was created and rankings for the brands were based on the following categories.

Genius, 140 and above;

* Gifted, 110 - 139;

* Average, 90 - 109;

* Challenged, 70 -89;

* Feeble, 70 and below

The only jewelry and watch brand that made the Gifted” category was Tiffany, which ranked 19th overall with a score of 118. “A jewel of a mobile app and smart digital cross promotion,” the survey noted.

Even e-commerce diamond jewelry standout, Blue Nile, took a hit in the survey, ranking 38th overall, which places it in the “Average” category with a score of 98. “Dated site for a child of the medium,” according to the L2 survey. Ouch.  

Others getting an average grade are

* 43 Cartier, score of 96, “Good-looking, but faulty site mechanics;”

* 45 Swarovski, 94, “Social media properties shimmer, but site has lost its sparkle;” and

* 47 Swatch, 92, “Multi-site e-commerce navigation lacks intuition.”

Zales Jewelers, which ranked 52nd, was the only watch and jewelry brand in the “Challenged” category with a score of 83; “Enhancing mobile and YouTube offering would help.”

Then there’s Tourneau, which ranked dead last in the survey at 64th with a score of 43. It is one of only two brands to place in the “Feeble” category for failing to have an e-commerce site. “Clock is ticking before getting completely left behind,” the survey states.

No jewelry and watch brands made the Genius category.

“On average, users spend more time on brand sites with higher Digital IQs,” L2 said in its survey. “This uptick in site visits also translates to more site visits per user and higher frequency visits.”

There is some good news in the survey for jewelry and watch brands. It includes:

* Tiffany & Co. is among those considered a facebook overachiever based on its facebook page popularity;

* Swarovski facebook page attracted nearly 1.3 million "Likes," the ninth highest among those surveyed.

* Cartier has one of the fastest growing twitter accounts, ranking eighth overall;

* Cartier ranks third and Tiffany ranks fifth among brands with the most upload views on YouTube; and

* Cartier's Calibre de Cartier, Mechanics of Passion, (Short Version) Youtube video is among the most popular brand videos, ranking eighth, with more than 1.3 million views.

Other survey highlights after the page break:

Swarovski Teams with Chamilia for Personalized Bead Collection

Swarovski Blue Brown Bracelet

It’s not often that the famed crystal company Swarovski partners with others. In fact, the Austrian firm that uses its brand to produce everything from crystal keepsakes to resort spas may never have been in a joint collaboration before in its 116 year history. This has now changed.

Swarovski Pink Drop Chain

Swarovski says it understands that fashion savvy consumers want to wear unique products that express their personality and style; so it has decided to join forces with Chamilia, the Minneapolis-based personalized jewelry company, to present a joint collection of beads that customers can mix and match to design their own creations.

The co-branded collection integrates Swarovski’s crystal faceting skills with Chamilia’s fashion sense, says Michael Paxton, Chamilia president and CEO. A total of 205 crafted beads have been designed with a range of colors and themes. The glow of precision cut crystal stones are enhanced with sterling silver, refined and on-trend, providing customers with many possibilities.

Swarovski Brilliance Green Earrings

The collection will be available beginning in August in approximately 400 Swarovski stores in the USA, Canada, Japan, Australia, U.K., Germany, France, Italy and Switzerland. With a price range from $30 to $100, the collection is designed to appeal to a variety of women.

Swarovski and Chamilia say it will be long-term collaboration.

Swarovski, Tiffany Among Top 10 in ‘Digital IQ’ in a Weak Jewelry Field

Tiffany's Engagement Ring Finder iPhone app

Two jewelry companies stand out in a ranking of the digital competence of 72 international luxury brands.

Swarovski and Tiffany ranked eighth and tenth, respectively, in the survey, “Digital IQ Index,” by L2, a membership organization of academics and industry professionals that bills itself as a think tank for digital innovation. While there were standouts in the rankings, much of the jewelry and watch industry received poor scores in the survey.

The survey measured luxury brands in the categories of “Watches & Jewelry,” “Fashion,” “Men’s Fashion,” and Shoes & Leathergoods.” The rankings are the result of measuring each company’s Internet site’s brand effectiveness, digital marketing efforts, social media presence and mobile marketing initiatives. They were ranked with a Digital IQ score and categorized in the following classes: “Genius,” “Gifted,” “Average,” “Challenged,” and “Feeble.” None of the 29 jewelry and watch brands made Genius class. The Watches & Jewelry category had the lowest score and biggest drop in the annual survey. The Fashion category had the highest overall score and the biggest overall gain.

“Amidst gray market concerns, counterfeit fears, and a general hope that ‘the whole Internet thing will go away,’ the Watch & Jewelry category appears paralyzed, posting an average IQ of just 79,” the survey notes. “Limited investment in digital and a lack of leadership have relegated them to ‘Average’ and ‘Challenged’ status in the Index.”

Swarovski (tied for eighth with Giorigo Armani) was tops in the Watches & Jewelry category with a score of 139 and receiving Gifted status. “The creation of a mobile site or application would elevate it to its Genius status,” the survey notes. Tiffany, with a score of 138 and also given the “Gifted” status, was cited for its innovative Engagement Ring Finder iPhone app, which allows users to browse the jeweler’s collection of rings according to shape, setting, metal or design.

Fabergé ranked 56 in the survey and received Average status. However, the company’s e-commerce Web site, which launched in September 2009 (part of the brand’s re-launch under its new owners, Pallinghurst Resources) received a special mention as the possible future of ultra-luxury e-retailing.

“The site’s password-protected inner sanctum preserves the boutique experience while remaining commerce-driven. Product presentation in flash is innovative; gem-encrusted baubles float in the ether of the home page, waiting to be dragged front and center,” the survey notes.

“The most unique feature of the site, however, is its customer service,” it continues. “Clients are immediately paired with a sales advisor who welcomes them and provides access to the site. Advisors are available in 11 languages, 24/7, for calls, instant messages, or video chats. Should a client want to try a piece, a viewing will be scheduled. If a purchase is made, the item will be hand-delivered. This attention to detail ensures that any Fabergé shopping experience, online or in-store, is managed to the brand’s standards. And with price points starting at $50,000, the bar is high.”

Other jewelry and watch brands that earned Gifted status with their ranking and Digital IQ score are as follows:

24. Tag Heuer (Digital IQ score 116)

25. Longines (114)

26. Hublot (113)

Jewelry and watch brands considered Average in the survey are:

34. Montblanc (104)

35. Bulgari (102)

37. Omega (101)

39 (tie). Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels (92)

42. David Yurman (90)

Among those considered Challenged are:

44 (tie). Cartier and Raymond Weil (89)

48. Rolex (87)

49. Movado (85)

50. Audemars Piguet (82)

54. Harry Winston (76)

55. IWC (75)

56. Fabergé (74)

Jewelry and watch brands receiving Feeble status are:

63. DeBeers (63)

64 (tie). Chopard and Vacheron Constantin (61)

66. Baccarat (56)

67. Patek Philippe (54)

69. Franck Muller (39)

70. Graff (35)

71. Bulova (32)

72. Buccellati (21)

The top seven luxury brands receiving Genius status are as follows:

1. Coach (171)

2 (tie). Ralph Lauren and Louis Vuitton (167)

4. Gucci (166)

5. Hugo Boss (157)

6. Burberry (153)

7. Dolce & Gabbana (140)

Swarovski’s Crystal Palace

Photograph of the front entrance to Sparkling Hill Resort provided by Derek Lepper of Derek Lepper Photography. (© 2010 Derek Lepper)

The Austrian crystal company, Swarovski, has made its mark in a most unusual place and in a most unusual way, bringing a large, glittering slice of Europe to rural western Canada.

The company has opened the Sparking Hill Resort and Wellness Hotel in Vernon, British Columbia. Carved out of a piece of granite overlooking the Okanagan Valley—known for its rustic beauty and as North America’s newest premium wine-growing region—the approximate $100 million, 178-acre project offers a wellness approach that is more popular in Europe as opposed to a North American spa experience that focuses on pampering.

And, of course, every part of this project includes the visual sparkle and healing powers of Swarovski crystals. From the giant crystal formation at the entrance that appears to have crashed into the granite mountain (which was the intent of chief designer Andy Altmayer and the Cannon Design architectural firm) to the crystal chandeliers that spread eloquently throughout the public spaces of the 241,000-square-foot hotel. 

A Swarovski crystal chandelier is the centerpiece of a dining room inside Sparkling Hill Resort. Photograph provided by Derek Lepper of Derek Lepper Photography.  (© 2010 Derek Lepper)

In addition, crystals are infused in water elements, fireplaces and in overhead lights, setting the mood in public areas while creating a feeling of warmth and rejuvenation in the wellness center. Natural surroundings incorporate and enhance the crystal theme as the hotel offers unobstructed views of the sun and moon and their shimmering reflection from the lake.

The 152 suites with expansive windows provide guests with views of either Lake Okanagan or the nearby mountains. The 25,000-square-foot wellness spa includes treatments that were only available in Europe, such as Italian (Fango) mud treatments where volcanic ash is mixed with water and the first cold sauna in North America, which involves being in a room for three minutes at -110C.

This resort in all sparkling, oversized glory serves as another extension for the Swarovski brand. The success of the 115-year-old company has been its ability to create new uses for crystal that brings functionality and beauty in areas that were previously unimagined. Altmayer has been with Swarovski for 35 years and embodies the philosophy of the company.

“My inspiration comes from the possibility of imagination,” he says. “Many people assume Swarovski is glittering figurines and chandeliers but it is so much more. Swarovski is a century old company that strives to invent new ways to incorporate crystals into fabrics, lights, jewelry, optics and even signage for roadways and offices.”