Platinum Is The ‘King of Metals’

By Teresa Frye, TechForm Advanced Casting

While diamonds and colored gemstones take the main stage in the vast majority of fine jewelry, the precious metals that are used to mount these objects of beauty have their own captivating story as well. More than mere carriers of precious stones, the elements that we rely upon to remain beautiful and perform over decades of routine wear are inherently of special quality. In my next few posts I will reflect on the unique physical attributes of platinum and gold, the dominant metals used in the making of fine jewelry.

Platinum is the king of metals. Aside from its extreme rarity, I find it fascinating that platinum’s particular physical qualities are unmatched by any other element in nature. Its characteristics are so special that it is difficult to find lower cost substitutes in many of the applications where it is used. And at over $1,000 per ounce, believe me, people try all the time.

Platinum is very inert, meaning in the jewelry world that it will not corrode, tarnish, nor spur allergic reactions in humans. This is very rare in metals, with fine gold being the only other element that even comes close. Platinum also rates very high on the toughness scale, which is a scientific measure of a material’s ability to absorb energy when impacted without breaking. It is also very malleable, easy to form, and has no spring-back (or memory as it is called in tech speak). Once set in place, a platinum prong will hug your stone tightly and for life in a way no other metal can.

Platinum is incredibly dense. It is the third densest element on earth and is only exceeded by osmium and iridium, two other platinum group metals. As such it is highly prized for its radiopacity (inhibits the passage of electromagnetic radiation). Often used in implantable devices and visible surgical guides inside the human body, nothing else displays quite so clearly and crisply under x-ray as platinum. Platinum is also a key ingredient in chemotherapies to fight cancer, so it is actually saving lives every day.

The 24.18-carat "Cullinan Dream" diamond set to go on auction June 9 is set in a platinum ring flanked with classic baguette-cut diamonds.

Another powerful feature of platinum is that it remains very stable under extreme temperatures. Many of the world’s high temperature thermocouples are made of a combination of platinum and rhodium. As a caster, I am well-versed in the extreme temperature resistance of platinum. There is no other metal routinely cast that melts at such high temperatures, and this is one reason platinum is among the most difficult metals to cast. This high temperature resistance further translates into industrial uses such as jet engine and glass making components, where the use of anything else might result in corrosion or melting.

As a key material used in many catalytic converters for auto emissions, platinum plays a strong role in cleaning the world’s air. Platinum’s unique ability as an auto catalyst is partially substituted with palladium, another platinum group metal, but for many applications platinum remains a needed catalyst. While there are many other industrial and medical uses, hopefully this sampling demonstrates a few of the reasons why this element is so unique and prized for its performance attributes.

Today’s bridal consumer is very inquisitive about the materials they are purchasing. Survey after survey has confirmed this fact, and thus a good knowledge of platinum and gold as elements on the periodic table can go far not only to educate the consumer about their metal choice, but also to set yourself apart as expert in every aspect of what you sell. 

Platinum in summary:

* The third densest element on earth, only exceeded by osmium and iridium.

* A very inert metal, meaning it is highly resistant to chemical corrosion, even at high temperatures. Platinum jewelry alloys simply do not tarnish.
Hypoallergenic, meaning platinum is very unlikely to cause an allergic skin reaction in humans.

* Extremely tough - platinum will resist breakage to a much greater extent than metals that are much harder and typically more brittle.

* Extremely durable - platinum jewelry will not corrode and wear thin over time, as will most karat gold alloys.

* Extremely high melt temperature - platinum alloys have the highest melting temperatures of any metals that are routinely cast, and this includes industrial metals.

* Human and environmental uses - platinum is widely used in applications that save lives and improve air quality. Cancer fighting drugs utilize platinum as a key ingredient and platinum’s strength as a catalyst helps clean auto emissions worldwide.

* Extremely rare investment in a piece of platinum jewelry brings more than the joy of owning a spectacularly beautiful heirloom piece. It can also be seen as an investment in a rare and precious element with high intrinsic value in its own right. 

Teresa Frye is founder of TechForm, which specializes in the casting of platinum group metals for the jewelry, medical, and aerospace industries. She is also founder of the Portland Jewelry Symposium, an annual gathering of custom jewelers, designers, and retailers described as a “great think tank” for jewelers who are passionate about their craft. Frye is a renowned specialist on the casting of platinum group metals who speaks at jewelry events throughout the world. 

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How Do I Choose The Best Precious Metal Alloy For My Jewelry?

This is the first in a monthly series of educational articles for jewelry professionals and consumers by Teresa Frye, founder of TechForm Advanced Casting  

The precious metal alloy you choose for your jewelry can make a world of difference for both the manufacture of your designs and consumers. Therefore, understanding the risks and benefits associated with alloy choices can go far towards assuring that you get the look you want and the quality you need. Every jeweler benefits from a deeper understanding of an alloy’s characteristics. Listed below are the most important of these characteristics.

Color
While this one may seem obvious, there is a lot of nuance in the world of color that can make a big difference in the end product. For example, matching a 950 platinum cobalt wedding band with a 950 platinum ruthenium engagement ring will yield a noticeably different color between the two. And while this might not be obvious when the ring is new and highly polished, with time and wear it will become more apparent. White gold runs the same risk. When gold alloys are whitened with palladium versus nickel, the latter will be much whiter than the former. Therefore, it is a good idea to do your homework and find suitable color matches, whether you are trying to match a customer’s existing piece of jewelry or launch a new line.

Tarnish Resistance
Although most jewelers are fairly well-versed in tarnish resistance, most consumers are not. A full understanding and disclosure of tarnish resistance for the products you sell will go far to protect your reputation. White gold tarnishing is probably the least understood by the consumer, so extra care should be taken at the point of sale to assure they understand that the metal will change color over time or that rhodium plating has been used and will eventually start to wear off. Your metal supplier should know how their alloys perform and can help you with the information you need to inform your customers.

Molten Fluidity
When you design it is important to understand the molten fluidity of your chosen alloys. While silver and yellow gold alloys have high fluidity that enable good flow into fine cross-sections, platinum and some of the white gold alloys do not. Fluidity is determined by a number of factors including an alloy’s solidification range. Alloys with inherently low fluidity, such as platinum ruthenium, need larger sprues and generally larger cross-sections to adequately fill all features of the design. If you are unsure of an alloy’s fluidity, your caster or the technical contact at your alloy supplier should be able to help.

Mechanical Properties
The mechanical properties for an alloy, including strength, ductility and hardness measurements, are crucial to understanding how your jewelry will wear for the consumer. In addition, they also indicate how an alloy will behave on the bench in terms of finishing and setting. The most common mechanical property cited in the jewelry industry is hardness, although this is only one measure and not necessarily the most important one for jewelry manufacturing. It is equally important to know how strong an alloy is to assure it will not distort with normal wear, or how ductile it is, which will indicate the degree of ease in setting. For example, while 950 platinum iridium is a dream to cast, polish and set, it has very low strength and hardness. If you understand the mechanical properties of this alloy, you will immediately conclude that the consumer cannot be well-served because your design will easily distort and potentially lose stones. Simply switching to a stronger alloy will shift these properties higher and protect your design from unnecessary failures. Your alloy supplier should be able to give you mechanical properties for your alloys if you do not already have them. 

8mm platinum Lattice ring with pave-set white diamonds by Etienne Perret

Hypo-allergenic Properties
Lastly, it is important to know whether your alloy contains nickel. A small but significant portion of the population has nickel sensitivity. Typically, these individuals already had some reaction to a jewelry metal in the past, and they will be looking to you to assure they get the right metal to avoid reactions in the future. Ask your metal supplier for a breakdown of the elements in their gold alloys, and avoid any that contain nickel. Another option is to use a platinum alloy composed of only platinum group metals, such as 950 platinum ruthenium or 900 platinum iridium. These alloys have no known instances of allergic reactions and are safest for those who are highly sensitive to base metals.

Teresa Frye is founder of TechForm, which specializes in the casting of platinum group metals for the jewelry, medical, and aerospace industries. She is also founder of the Portland Jewelry Symposium, an annual gathering of custom jewelers, designers, and retailers described as a “great think tank” for jewelers who are passionate about their craft. Frye is a renowned specialist on the casting of platinum group metals who speaks at jewelry events throughout the world. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

The Harry Winston Art Deco Collection

When Harry Winston founded his eponymous jewelry brand in 1932, the Art Deco scene was in its heyday and its signature designs personified the luxury and glamour of the period.

For its latest collection, Harry Winston continues this heritage with six colorless diamond and platinum jewels that underscore the distinctive architectural style of the 1930s. Titled, “Art Deco by Harry Winston,” the collection evokes the iconic elegance of the period with combinations of round brilliant and baguette diamonds set in a symmetrical geometric shapes and angular forms. All of the pieces represent a singular sculptural motif, whether it is used as a central design element or repeated.

The collection consists of a diamond sautoir, single and multi-motif diamond bracelets, single motif diamond earrings, a diamond pendant and a ladies jewelry timepiece using the same motif. The pieces represent the refined and colorless version of the Art Deco design period.

The collection is available at Harry Winston salons worldwide. 

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JVC Publishes Guide on FTC Platinum Amendments

The Jewelers Vigilance Committee released The Essential Guide to the U.S. Trade in Platinum Jewelry to clarify Federal Trade Commission’s 2010 amendments to the platinum section of the guides for the jewelry, precious metal and pewter industries. This guide explains these revised standards, and what they mean in practical terms for those who manufacture, promote and sell platinum jewelry. The guide was underwritten by a grant from Platinum Guild International USA. 

The Essential Guide includes legal standards for platinum, glossary of terms, frequently asked questions and two platinum tolerance charts, explaining how to stamp and describe both traditional products and platinum products containing a minimum 500 ppt platinum alloyed with base metal. 

“This Essential Guide explains fairly complex FTC amendments for the marketing and stamping of products containing platinum,” said Cecilia Gardner, JVC president and CEO. “This tool gives practical guidance on how to compliantly market and describe these products.” 

To view and download the Essential Guide online, visit this link on the JVC website or this link to the PGI website.

Neil Lane Engagement Ring Adds Sparkle to ‘The Bachelorette’ Finale

The ABC reality show, The Bachelorette, received some added sparkle when Roberto Martinez proposed to bachelorette, Ali Fedotowsky, with a hand-crafted Neil Lane diamond and platinum ring.

The ring (pictured above) is centered with an asscher-cut diamond and accented with 184 round brilliant cut diamonds in a fine handmade setting. Total diamond weight is 3.03 carats. The custom designed ring is signed Neil Lane.
In the romance reality series, a lucky woman gets the opportunity to find the man of her dreams—and her groom-to-be. Fedotowsky embarked on a romantic journey as she met 25 eligible men, getting to know each one as she narrowed the field. They traveled to exotic locations, introduced them to her family and met some of the bachelors’ families. At the end of her romantic voyage, she found “Mr. Right,” and a proposal with a Neil Lane diamond ring.

Los Angles-based Neil Lane is the favorite jeweler for Hollywood brides-to-be. The list of Hollywood celebrities who have received Lane’s engagement ring include Reese Witherspoon, Kate Hudson, Sandra Bullock, Brooke Shields and Jennifer Hudson.

Mark Schneider’s New Bridal Designs

 Charmed

Award-winning jewelry designer Mark Schneider introduced several new bridal designs during the Couture jewelry show in Las Vegas. The collection of the diamond engagement rings is available in 14k and 18k white gold and in platinum.

 Delicate

Schneider’s bridal designs have won numerous awards over the years. The company's headquarters is in Long Beach, Calif. 

 Honey

Below are some more images of the new collection:

 Innocence                             Kindle

Orchid

Diamond and Gem Jewelry Designs by John Apel

Turkish born American jewelry designer John Apelian introduced three new collections during jewelry week using diamonds, gemstones and 18k gold or platinum, under the company name of John Apel.

The first (pictured above) is an 18k yellow gold necklace with beryl stones and diamonds. It is part of the Colors Collection.

The Marquees shaped platinum and rose cut diamond earrings from the Shimmers Collection, one of the company's signature lines.

Below is Larissa micropave diamond and platinum setting with round center cut diamond from the Serendipity Collection. The ring also is available in 18k gold.

The New York-based company was formerly known as DiLaro Jewelry Co.