‘Kelly Sapphire’ And 16-Ct. Diamond Necklace Each May Fetch $2 Million

Art Deco necklace with 16.24-carat D-color, internally flawless, VS2, pear-shaped diamond

The jewels of business woman and philanthropist, Margaret Adderley Kelly, will lead Christie’s final jewelry auction of the spring season in New York on Tuesday. The 28 lots in the private collection include a Cartier Kashmir sapphire ring and an Art Deco diamond pendant necklace along with large diamond and gold suites, a variety of pearls and several ruby and sapphire pieces.

Ms. Kelly along with her husband, the late William R. Kelly, and their son, Mr. Terence E. Adderley, shaped the national employment agency and recruitment firm, Kelly Services, Inc., into a Fortune 500 company that now employs more than 550,000 people globally. 

One of the top lots is called “The Kelly Sapphire,” (pictured above) a Cartier signed ring centered with a 21.71-carat Kashmir sapphire with no traces of heat enhancement. The stone is flanked by two trapeze-shaped diamonds. Its estimate is $1.5 million - $2 million. 

The other item of note in the Kelly collection is an Art Deco necklace that features a 16.24-carat D-color, internally flawless, VS2, pear-shaped diamond pendant (top photo). Its estimate is $1.6 million to $2 million.

The diverse offering of more than 200 lots at Christie’s New York Important Jewels sale on Tuesday includes a group of colored and colorless diamonds, rare gemstones, and signed designer jewels.

Other auction highlights include:

* An 80.73-carat cushion-cut, K-color diamond with an estimate of $3 million - $5 million

* A 9.97-carat, cushion-cut, Kashmir sapphire with an estimate of $950,000 - $1.25 million

* A 28-carat cushion-cut Intense Fancy Yellow, VS2 diamond with an estimate of $700,000 - $900,000

* A 25.82-carat cushion-cut, K-color, VS2 diamond with an estimate of $600,000 - $700,000

* A 15.54-carat cut-cornered step-cut diamond by Cartier with an estimate of $330,000 - $450,000

* An Art-Deco diamond bracelet by Cartier with an estimate of $380,000 - $450,000

* A necklace with a 5.06-carat, pear-shaped D-color diamond and a 1.68-carat, pear-shaped fancy purplish-pink diamond, with an estimate of $280,000 - $350,000

* A 14.5-carat cut-corned fancy yellow diamond by Graff with an estimate of $250,000 - $350,000

* A 7.27 oval cut Colombian emerald with an estimate of $260,000 – $300,000

Buccellati Unveils Salon in West Palm Beach

By Gretchen Friedrich
Jewelry News Network Social Media Manager

Favoloso is the Italian word for fabulous. It is certainly an appropriate adjective for describing all things Buccellati. From the world’s most expensive tech accessories, to the extensive history of craftsmanship, Buccellati brings a signature level of quality and creativity in all its pieces.

That attention to detail is conveyed in the new location in the Neiman Marcus store in West Palm Beach, Fla., unveiled Wednesday. The salon’s design and appointments are a reflection of the new global identity by Buccellati worldwide, unveiled in March in its new New York boutique. The salon features its signature Alcantara beige throughout the space, complimented by rich wood display cases and neutral furnishings. 

In 2014, the design house launched a rebranding effort while simultaneously bringing on its first female designer, Lucrezia Buccellati. She continues the family tradition of two generations working as the design center of the luxury jewelry house. She and her father, Andrea, are combining traditional Buccellati craftsmanship with modern design. 

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Suzanne Syz New High Jewelry And Her Elizabeth Taylor Connection

'Ali Baba's Trove' titanium ring topped with a 55-carat Mozambique paraiba with reverse-set diamonds that appear like spikes.

Suzanne Syz, an interior decorator and avid modern art collector, was frustrated with the luxury jewelry that was available—which she found heavy, uncomfortable and designed for a bygone era. 

“It tended to make you look older,” Syz said in a New York hotel room where she was showing her new collection to clients and press. Their public unveiling will be at Masterpiece London, June 25 – July 1. 

Mushroom brooch and ring with yellow gold and silver paved with diamonds and sprinkled with red spinels and emeralds.

This frustration led her to start creating her own jewelry about 15 years ago. One of her first pieces was a turquoise necklace that she wore to lunch with none other than Elizabeth Taylor. The iconic actress and world famous jewelry collector admired the necklace so much that she bought it.

It was quite a way to start a career. Since then, in a relatively short amount of time, Syz has developed a reputation for being one of the world’s top high jewelry artists. Under the name Suzanne Syz Art Jewels, she and her small staff of craftsmen produce about 50 one-of-kind pieces per year from a workshop in Geneva where she lives. It is the only place where one can buy her jewelry outside of her travels. Her clientele, as one would expect, are those with wealth, power and taste. They include Princess Glora von Thurn und Taxis, the Archduchess Francesca von Habsburg-Thyssen and actress Michelle Yeoh.

Sapphire earrings encased micropearls that is airy and delicate in appearance while being durable and flexible

Her pieces are light and lively and are contemporary interpretations of traditional high jewelry themes—such as nature, childhood and fairy tales. She will use pretty much any gem or metal as long as it is of high quality and often finds new uses for traditional materials. 

Her appreciation of contemporary art began in the 1980s when she lived in New York and ran in the same circles as Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Jeff Koons. Her jewelry reflects those influences. 

Titanium cuff enhanced with large sliced diamonds

“My pieces are understated, fun and on the creative side—while always using the best materials,” she says.

Titanium is used for many pieces in her new collection. She says gem colors really shine in contrast with the metal. She also admires its strength, durability and adaptability. It also is one of the lightest known metals. 

“I like it when you don’t see the material too much,” she says. “You can put stones in it without it getting heavy. Jewelry has to be comfortable.”

A purple Burmese sapphire cabochon is encased with twisted purple titanium sprinkled with diamonds 

In the new collection, titanium is used in many colors and often paved with colored gems or diamonds. A ring made of titanium is topped with a 55-carat Mozambique Paraiba. The side of the ring features reverse-set diamonds that appear like spikes and give the piece texture. Titanium strands are twisted and curved in a variety of different ways and paved with diamond or colored gems for rings and earrings. It also is used for a wide chunky (but lightweight) cuff, enhanced with large sliced diamonds.

Gems range from green-blue Mozambican paraiba and pear-shaped red spinels to more traditional emeralds and blue sapphires. 

'Shanghai Lilly' Earrings in titanium, jade, sapphires and diamonds

One of the boldest pieces in the new collection is a mushroom brooch with yellow gold and silver paved with diamonds and sprinkled with red spinels and emeralds.

Tiny pearls “micropearls” are used in ways that challenged the craftsmen, Syz says. For example, curved rows of these pearls extend outward from an emerald for a ring; and they encase sapphire earrings in an elaborate egg-shaped cage that is both airy and delicate in appearance while being durable and flexible. 

Emerald ring with curved rows of micropearls

Syz says the fun and whimsy expressed in her pieces may fool admirers into not recognizing them as high-priced, high jewelry. That’s fine with Syz who prefers to not discuss pricing. 

“The stones look good, the wearer looks good. Nobody needs to know (the cost). Just you need to know.”

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Longines Celebrates Triple Crown Victory And Equestrian Heritage

Jennifer Judkins and Juan Carlos Capelli, center, both of Longines, award Jockey Victor Espinoza, left, and Bob Baffert, right, Longines Conquest Classic 18k gold timepieces after Espinoza rode American Pharaoh to win the first Triple Crown in 37 years. Photo credit: Stuart Ramson/Invision for Longines/AP Images

By Gretchen Friedrich
Jewelry News Network Social Media Manager

Saturday's Belmont Stakes set racing history when American Pharoah became the first horse to win the coveted “Triple Crown” of horse racing since 1978. 

The win also represented a marketing coup for Longines. The longtime official timekeeper for the Kentucky Derby and the Preakness, the Swiss luxury watch brand began as the official timekeeper for the Belmont Stakes in 2013. Saturday marked the first opportunity for the brand to present 18k rose gold Conquest Classic watches to mark the occasion to the winning team (owner Zayat Stables, trainer Bob Baffert and jockey Victor Espinoza). Winning team members also received Longines Conquest Classic watches following each victory in the Derby and Preakness.

American Pharoah secured his spot in the very exclusive “Triple Crown” club by winning the Belmont Stakes by five and a half lengths. Not exactly wire to wire, but he was a solid contender the entire race.

Victor Espinoza rides American Pharaoh to victory at the 147th Belmont Stakes at Belmont Park Race Track, to secure the first Triple Crown win in 37 years. The longines clock prominent in the background as the race's Official Timekeeper. Photo credit: Stuart Ramson/Invision for Longines/AP Images

The term “wire to wire” is a familiar one in the world of horse racing. It refers to a horse that leads the race from the starting gate to the finish line. The term resides comfortably in the vernacular of racing enthusiasts. It is also closely associated with Longines, which is interwoven into the silks of horse racing history.

Beginning in Es Longines, Switzerland, in 1832, the company has a rich history in equestrian sports. Awards and accolades highlight achievements, not only in the realm of monitoring time, but also how to apply time calculations in the context of competition. Over the years, Longines has won dozens of awards based on its frontier spirit in the world of time calculating mechanics.

Longines first stopwatch was perfected at its Swiss headquarters in 1888, then shipped to the United States. It was a true advancement for the horse racing statisticians. Casual observers could “clock” a horse’s race time alongside trainers, owners, or serious gamblers. Anyone who had interest in a horse’s performance, against the clock for improvement verification, or against the competition’s stats, could acquire relevant data.

A significant timekeeping apparatus appeared in the 1912 Gymnastics Festival in Basel, Switzerland. Wires were attached to Longines clocks. Simple, yet effective, this device took precision in sports to a whole new level. The wires started and stopped the clocks, hence the term “wire to wire.”

In 1954, Longines was the first to combine photography with timekeeping. Its quartz clock was attached to a camera to record photos and time simultaneously. This is the premise of the “photo finishes” seen today in sporting events of all kinds, especially horse racing.

Over the years, Longines has become more involved in all aspects of horse racing. 

Robert Masterson, owner of the horse named Tepin, center, accepts a Longines Classic Conquest timepiece from Jennifer Judkins, center left, and a trophy from Juan Carlos Capelli of Longines, center right, after jockey Julien Leparoux wins the Longines "Just a Game" race Saturday, prior to the Belmont Stakes. Photo credit: Stuart Ramson/Invision for Longines/AP Images

It involves the crowd at events by hosting contests such as “Most Elegant Woman” at Belmont, with the winner receiving a Longines watch. It also formed a group that keeps statistics, and it sponsors the “Just a Game” race at Belmont, held prior to the Belmont Stakes. 

It all coincides with the Longines tradition of providing winning owners and jockeys with watches at the end of the prized races. A tradition it began in 1938. 

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Watchmaker F.P. Journe And Jeweler Martin Katz Partner On ‘Elegant’ Electromechanical Timepiece

Luxury independent watchmaker, F.P. Journe, has unveiled the “élégante” ladies watch, which the company says is the “only electromechanical movement conceived and created for the luxury market.”

An electromechanical movement, like the name suggests, combines electrical and mechanical processes and procedures.

It is also the first ladies watch created by the luxury watchmaker, known for its innovation and inventiveness. In this case, the main feature of this timepiece is a mechanical motion detector visible on the dial at 5 o’clock. When the watch is not worn, it stops after about 30 minutes and goes into standby mode. The microprocessor continues to keep time while the mechanical parts—gears, rotors and hands—stop moving in order to save energy.

When the élégante is worn again, it automatically sets itself to the correct time, taking the shortest path—either clockwise or counter clockwise—again for energy conservation. With this system the electronic components are projected to last 10 years if worn and up to 18 years in standby mode.

All the mechanical elements were manufactured by F.P. Journe. The electronic components were developed by a Swiss engineer and were made in Switzerland, with a microprocessor specifically created for the watch.

The watch is the result of eight years of research, particularly the electromechanical caliber 1210 with its patented two-rotor motor, according to the watch brand.

For the aesthetic portion of the watch, Mr. Journe consulted with luxury jeweler, Martin Katz, known for his diamond jewelry designs. Katz said he has been a long time admirer and client of Mr. Journe.

“Our style aesthetic and quality of work are perfectly aligned, so to share in the design process of the women’s watch collection for a brand I truly respect was an exciting project for me,” Katz said.

The élégante comes with a luminescent dial with a subdial at 6 o’clock. The patented flat “tourtise” case design is available in three colors, each using a different material, and seven colored rubber straps. For example, the titanium version is available in all colors. The 18k red gold version comes with a chocolate strap; and the platinum PT 950 version with a dark blue strap. 

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Necklace With 51 ‘Triple X’ Diamonds Could Fetch $1.8 Million At Bonhams

A diamond rivière necklace with 51 “Triple X-cut” rated diamonds will be the top lot at Bonham’s New York Fine Jewelry sale on June 22. Its estimate is $1.4 million to $1.8 million.

Triple X (also known as “Triple Ex”) is an informal designation, mostly within the trade, that means a diamond that has received excellent polish, symmetry and cut grades. Only round and round brilliant cut diamonds can receive this designation. 

Each diamond in the necklace is accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America report that stating it’s three excellence grades. The graduated line of 51 round brilliant-cut diamonds weighs more than 70 carats. They are joined together by a heart-shaped diamond clasp weighing 2.04 carats. The diamonds are mounted in platinum. 

Bonhams has been saying that buyers have shown a strong preference for colored diamonds and gems this year. Exemplifying this trend the auction is loaded with these colorful stones. Among the top colored lots are:

* A 3.56-carat cut-cornered, rectangular-cut fancy intense pink diamond on a ring with an estimate of $600,000 - $800,000, enhanced by a pavé-set diamond surround and mounted in 18k white and yellow gold;

* A 25-carat sapphire and diamond ring (est. $400,000 - $500,000) by M. Gerard, a famous French jewelry house known for its superior craftsmanship and superb gemstones. The richly colored crystal sapphire’s unusual octagonal cut makes this a very rare find. The sapphire is flanked by triangular-cut diamonds and is mounted in 18k gold. 

* A ring designed as a pavé-set diamond star with an oval modified brilliant-cut fancy deep blue diamond in the center, which weighs 0.71 carat (est. $250,000 - $350,000); 

* A 5.02-carat cut-cornered, square modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamond on a ring flanked by fancy-cut diamonds within a pavé-set diamond surround (est. $50,000 - $60,000).

* A fancy colored diamond and sapphire ring designed as a pavé-set diamond with a geometric plaque. The plaque centers a lozenge brilliant-cut light gray-blue colored diamond weighing 0.92 carat with acalibré-cut sapphire surround (est. $40,000 - $60,000)

The auction will begin held at 11 a.m. 

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Couture Show Jewelry And Watch Preview

Irene Neuwirth one-of-a-kind colorful jewelry necklace made of a variety of gems

It’s Las Vegas Jewelry Week and this year my participation will be limited to three days so I decided to focus my attention to The Couture Show, the most exclusive of the many jewelry tradeshows being held in Las Vegas this week. The five-day event beginning May 28 is a showcase for major jewelry and watch brands, and designer and couture jewelers.

Lagos’s Keep Memory Alive Sterling Silver Signature Caviar Collection supports, a nonprofit organization dedicated to the research, management and treatment of memory disorders. Designs are inspired by the intricate curvature of Keep Memory Alive’s architectural masterpiece in Las Vegas, designed by world-renowned architect, Frank Gehry. The company’s founder, Steven Lagos, is a long time supporter of the organization

In recent years it has expanded its footprint internationally among exhibitors, buyers and press. More than 4,000 buyers are expected to view the offerings of more than 350 exhibitors at the Wynn Las Vegas, which include Roberto Coin, David Yurman, Pomellato, Lagos and Stephen Webster. Established jewelers exhibiting for the first time include Omi Privé, Gumuchian and London-based art jeweler, Completedworks

Omi Privé Opal and Diamond 3-Stone Ring augmented with sapphires and diamonds set in 18k yellow gold

In addition to jewelry, the show has been attracting more luxury watch brands. Expect this trend to continue as Couture recently announced that it is partnering with advising and consulting company, Kaiser Time Inc., to develop the watch category for the show. Among the watch brands exhibiting for the first time are Baume & Mercier, Hermes, Gucci and Tudor.

Gurhan Gold and Opal Pendant in 24k gold with irregular-shaped opals and round diamonds

In addition to Couture, there are no fewer than six other jewelry, gem and watch shows at hotels along “The Strip,” making up what has become informally known as “Las Vegas Jewelry Week.” The biggest is the JCK Show (May 26 – June 1), located at the Mandalay Bay Hotel & Conference Center, a jewelry tradeshow that provides a showcase for the entire breadth of jewelry available in the US, as well as jewelry making technology, machinery, jewelry packaging, and support services.

Hermès Cape Cod Zebra Pegasus Watch employed Grand Feu enameling for the miniature painting of the zebra and the cloisonné technique for the wings. The dial’s base is made of a 22k gold plate crafted into three different layers. Limited to four pieces

For estate and collectible jewelry and watches, there’s the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show (May 28 -31), the largest such event catering to those in the jewelry trade. AGTA GemFair, also at Mandalay Bay (May 28 –June), features gem dealers from around the world.

Stefan Hafner Jasmine Bracelet in white gold embellished with diamonds inspired by the inspired by the rich decoration of ancient Moroccan palaces, enveloped by the citrus scent of the royal gardens

The other tradeshows include American Craft Retailers Expo at South Point Hotel Casino & Spa (May 28 – 30), for American and Canadian artists, many just entering into the marketplace; the Gem & Lapidary Association show at the Mirage Resort & Casino Hotel (May 25 – 28); and the International Watch and Jewelry Guild Show (May 25 – 26).

Completedworks Pillar inspired by ruined architecture, the brand’s signature collection draws together the elegant, elongated, sometimes elaborate, architectural language of the classical column

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Temple St. Clair 18k Small Flower Necklace with Royal Blue Moonstone (61.92cts) and diamonds (0.90cts)

Ornella Iannuzzi Rock It! Pendant Cage with an opal bead inside an 18k yellow gold geometric cage

Moritz Glik’s Kaleidoscope combines tiny gold star motifs with his signature diamonds, shaking between two sapphire crystals