Galatea’s Queen Bead Carved Pearl Designs

Queen Bead Queen Bracelet

Chi Huynh is both a jeweler and an artist. His canvas and his muse are pearls. Already beautiful in their own right, he takes each individual pearl and carves designs in them or he pairs them with precious metals and gemstones in unusual ways to create individual works of art. The results are quite striking, as detailed and refined as any artist or craftsman who works with more traditional materials.

Queen Bead Levitation Hope Necklace

Huynh’s company, Galatea: Jewelry by Artist, has introduced a new collection that capitalizes on the popularity of jewelry with interchangeable beads. Called the Queen Bead Collection, it offers a way to create dramatic cultured pearl necklaces, bracelets and earrings one pearl at a time. Huynh says it’s for women looking to express her own personal style. The collection includes 39 carved pearl designs. Available in black South Sea as well as white and peach freshwater pearls, the “beads” in the collection can be rearranged at will. Measuring 10-12 mm. with sterling silver cores, Queen Beads are designed to be collected. Suggested retail prices begin at $112.50 for a single South Sea Queen Bead and $45 for a freshwater Queen Bead.

Queen Bead Integrity Bracelet

The new line includes sterling silver bracelets and necklaces featuring the company's sterling silver magnetic Galatea Attraction clasps with an internal closure. Earrings are also available.

Gemfields Emerald Auction Fetches $31.6 million

Gemstone mining and marketing company, Gemfields, said it made a record $31.6 million from its auction of rough emeralds held last week in Singapore, adding that it underscores the strong demand for its “ethically sourced” gemstones from its Kagem Mine in Zambia..

On a like-for-like basis, prices have increased 63 per cent to $42.7 per carat among the higher quality stones since December 2010, the company said.

It was the first auction of the Gemfields current financial year, but the company has held seven auctions since 2009, which have generated total revenues of $87.5 million, the London-based company said. The next major sale is planned for November.

Gemfields is the only company in the world that is attempting to incorporate a mine-to-market strategy for the emerald industry. Under the plan, emeralds would come from a single source (the Kagem mine) so the origin of each stone can be traced from the mine to the retail jeweler. In addition to the Kagem mine, which it owns a 75 percent share, the company also owns a cutting and polishing facility in Jaipur, India, where the emeralds from the mine are taken. The result of this is that Gemfields is trying to produce emeralds with a provenance in a way that adheres to fair-trade practices and in accordance with environmental, social and safety standards.

The company also owns a 50-percent share of the Kariba mine, also in Zambia, which it says is the largest amethyst mine in the world. In another twist, Gemfields is owned by Pallinghurst Resources, an investment holding company that also owns the Fabergé brand. Emeralds from Kagem are being used in creating jewelry sold by Fabergé brand. The high jewelry house has been in the news lately for releasing a number of new jewelry and watch collections, most notably the unveiling of new Fabergé eggs, the most iconic jewelry item from the brand, which traces its roots to the 19th Century Russia and was known for its jeweled creations for Russian royalty.

“The results are testament to the company’s ongoing focus on marketing to both consumers and retailers, and the quality and consistency of the emeralds produced at Kagem,” said Ian Harebottle, Gemfields chief executive.

The Singapore auction was also used as a platform to test the potential levels of demand for rough emerald and beryl from other sources other than the Kagem Mine such as Brazil and rival Zambian producers, Gemfields said.

The results weren’t included in the update, and Gemfields said it will continue to “refine and evolve” the format.

Royal Asscher Opens Flagship Store in Tokyo

The Royal Asscher Diamond Company opened its first flagship store in Japan on July 15, located on the Ginza Street in the center of Tokyo. It represents the company’s first store in Asia.

“It shows our total commitment to Japan in these difficult times,” said Edward Asscher, president of the Netherlands-based company. “We have great respect for the solidarity and vigor the Japanese people has shown to rebuild and overcome their predicament. We are thrilled to continue building our relationship and being part of the most memorable moments of people lives.”

Situated in a prime location, in the heart of the luxury shopping area, in the company of other reputable stores such as LVMH, Bulgari and Chanel, it is also the first Dutch-based company retail operation on the Ginza.

The interior of the modern store is decorated in white contrasting with Royal Asscher’s signature blue and showcases a variety of Royal Asscher diamond engagement rings and jewelry. In commemoration of the opening of the store, a Royal Asscher diamond tiara has been created containing a total of 10 carats of diamonds set in platinum and valued at $385,000. The tiara will be loaned as a special treat to brides who purchase a Royal Asscher engagement ring in the Ginza store.

Buckingham Palace to Exhibit Kate’s Wedding Ensemble and the Royal Fabergé Collection

Photo Credit: Getty Images

The Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding dress along with her wedding tiara and earrings will go on display at Buckingham Palace during its annual summer opening. As big as this display is for much of the world (an estimated 3 billion saw the British royal wedding), it may be overshadowed by what is considered by many to be the world’s greatest collection of Fabergé pieces that will also be part of the same opening of the official London residence of Britain's sovereigns.

The exhibition will run from July 23 till October 3, so if you are planning to visit London during this time it’s a good idea to book your tickets now as this double-dose of British royal artifacts will no doubt draw huge crowds from around the world.

The former Kate Middleton’s wedding dress, designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, is made from ivory and white satin-gazar (stiffened organza). The shape of the skirt, with arches and pleats, echoes an opening flower, and the ivory satin bodice, which is narrowed at the waist and padded at the hips, draws on the Victorian tradition of corsetry—a hallmark of Alexander McQueen’s designs. The back of the dress is finished with 58 gazar- and organza-covered buttons fastened by Rouleau loops. The underskirt is made of silk tulle trimmed with Cluny lace. The train is nearly nine feet in length.

The lace appliqué for the bodice and skirt was hand-made by the Royal School of Needlework, founded in 1872. The lace was produced using the Carrickmacross lace-making technique, which originated in Ireland in the 1820s. Individual flowers were hand-cut from lace and hand-engineered on to ivory silk-tulle to create a design that incorporates the rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock. Each lace motif was applied with tiny stitches every two to three millimeters. The bride’s veil, made of layers of soft, ivory silk-tulle with a trim of hand-embroidered flowers, was also embroidered by the Royal School of Needlework.

Photo credit: Ben StansallGetty Images

The veil was held in place by the Cartier ‘Halo’ tiara, which was lent to The Duchess by the queen. The tiara is formed as a band of 16 graduated scrolls set with 739 brilliants and 149 baton diamonds, each scroll being divided by a graduated brilliant with a large brilliant at the center. The tiara was made in 1936 and purchased by The Duke of York (later King George VI) for The Duchess of York (later Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother) three weeks before he succeeded his brother as King. The tiara was presented to Princess Elizabeth (now The Queen) by her mother for her 18th birthday.

The duchess’s earrings were commissioned by the Middleton family as a personal gift to the bride from her parents. They were created by the London-based jewelers Robinson Pelham. The design, stylized oak leaves with a pear-shaped diamond-set drop and a pavé-set diamond acorn suspended in the center, was inspired by the Middleton family's new coat of arms.

The duchess’s wedding shoes, also part of the display, were hand-made by the team at Alexander McQueen, of ivory duchesse satin and lace embroidered by the Royal School of Needlework.

In addition, the duke and duchess’s wedding cake created by Leicestershire-based cake designer Fiona Cairns will be shown in the State Dining Room. The multi-tiered traditional fruit cake was hand-made using British ingredients and decorated with sugar flowers.

Colonnade Egg

Royal Fabergé
More than 100 pieces from what many consider to be the finest collection of Fabergé in the world will be the other big draw of Buckingham Palace’s public opening. The display will chart the Royal Family’s passion for the work of the great Russian jeweler and goldsmith, Peter Carl Fabergé, over six generations—from Queen Victoria, to Queen Elizabeth and Prince Charles.




A number of works will go on display for the first time, including a complete miniature tea set (above) originally belonging to Queen Alexandra is made of gold and enamel to give the impression of porcelain. Each lid is decorated with a tiny ruby.

Other highlights include an Imperial Easter Egg (left), the Basket of Flowers Egg, commissioned by Tsar Nicholas II for Tsarina Alexandra Feodorovna in 1901. It was kept in the Tsarina’s study at the Winter Palace before being confiscated during the Russian Revolution in 1917. It is decorated with gold and rose diamonds and moss made of green gold and was acquired by Queen Mary in 1933. 

In addition, the only known Fabergé figure of a Chelsea Pensioner (left), acquired by King Edward VII on his last visit to Fabergé’s London branch, will also go on display.

All Fabergé photos courtesy of The Royal Collection © 2011

Jewelry Exhibit at Boston MFA to Span History of Adornment

Marjorie Merriweather Post’s platinum brooch from the 1920s, featuring a spectacular 60-ct. carved Mughal emerald surrounded by diamonds.

The Boston Museum of Fine Arts will open a new gallery Tuesday dedicated to jewelry with the exhibit, “Jewels, Gem, and Treasures: Ancient to Modern.” The exhibition, which will run till November 1, 2012, will cover jewelry ornamentation spanning from the 24th century B.C. to the 20th Century.

Marsh-bird brooch, 1901–02, Charles Robert Ashbee

The MFA’s new Rita J. and Stanley H. Kaplan Family Foundation Gallery, one of the few galleries at U.S. museums dedicated to jewelry, will feature works from the museum’s permanent collection of approximately 11,000 ornaments along with pieces on loan.

The 75 objects on display will include antique ornaments made of ivory, shell, and rock crystal along with modern jewelry made of diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies and pearls became fashionable in later years. It’s designed to shed light on how various cultures throughout history have defined the concept of “treasure.” Pictured left: Hathor-headed crystal pendant,Napatan Period, reign of King Piye, 743-712 BC, from el-Kurru, tomb Ku 55 (Sudan). 

In addition, the exhibition explains the significance of jewelry, which can be functional (pins, clasps, buckles, combs, and barrettes); protective (talismans endowed with healing or magical properties); and ornamental, making the wearer feel beautiful, loved, and remembered. Beyond functionality and adornment, jewelry can also establish one’s status and role in society. Rare gems and precious metals, made into fabulous designs by renowned craftsmen, have often served as symbols of wealth and power.

The significance of precious materials in jewelry in the 20th century is explored in the exhibition, where several modern adornments from the MFA’s Daphne Farago Collection (which comprises 650 pieces of contemporary craft jewelry made by leading American and European artists from about 1940 to the present) examine jewelry’s traditional roles in society.

Mary Todd Lincoln brooch, about 1860

“Jewelry is a powerful cultural signifier, and the materials used in its fabrication vary considerably. This exhibition examines both traditional and unusual substances used to create some of the world’s most extraordinary adornments,” said Yvonne Markowitz, the MFA’s Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry, whose position is the first endowed curatorship dedicated to the study of jewelry in a U.S. museum.

Some of the most opulent works from the museum’s jewelry collection, including an 1856 diamond wedding necklace and earrings suite given by arms merchant Samuel Colt to his wife (the 41.73-carat suite, purchased for $8,000, is now valued at $190,000) and Mary Todd Lincoln’s gold, enamel, and diamond brooch with matching earrings, which she acquired around 1864. Also on view is Marjorie Merriweather Post’s lavish platinum brooch from the 1920s, featuring a spectacular 60-ct. carved Mughal emerald surrounded by diamonds, which she purchased in anticipation of her presentation at the British court in 1929 (top image).

NRF: Retail Sales Up 0.3% in June

Retail industry sales (which exclude automobiles, gas stations, and restaurants) in June increased 0.3 percent seasonally adjusted from May and 5.5 percent unadjusted year-over-year, according to data from the National Retail Federation, which notes that it’s the 12th conservative month of retail sales growth.

The organization said warm weather, lower gas costs and strong Father’s Day promotions put consumers in a spending mood in June.

“A solid year of growth in sales provides further evidence that retailers continue to lead the charge in the economic recovery,” said Matthew Shay, NRF president and CEO. “While spending continues to surpass expectations, sustained growth in the retail sector depends on a strong labor market.”

“Retailers are hoping this momentum continues through the back to school season,” added Jack Kleinhenz, NRF chief economist. “Knowing that shoppers remain concerned about the economy, companies have already begun offering aggressive promotions to entice shoppers.”

June retail sales released by the U.S. Commerce Department show total retail sales (which include non-general merchandise categories such as autos, gasoline stations and restaurants) increased 0.1 percent seasonally adjusted month-to-month and 8.4 percent unadjusted year-over-year.

Specific sales results from NRF include:

• Clothing and clothing accessories stores’ sales increased 0.7 percent seasonally adjusted over May and a 7.6 percent unadjusted year-over-year. Sales at building material and garden equipment stores increased 1.3 percent seasonally adjusted month-to-month and 8.5 percent unadjusted over last year.

• Sales at electronic and appliance stores decreased 0.2 percent seasonally adjusted month-to-month and fell 2.3 percent unadjusted from last year. Home furnishings stores sales decreased 0.8 percent seasonally adjusted over May and increased 0.2 percent unadjusted year-over-year.

• Health and personal care stores sales decreased 0.2 percent seasonally adjusted over May but increased 3.9 percent unadjusted year-over-year.

The Other Fabergé Eggs

In addition to its recently launched Fabergé High Jewelry Egg Pendants, the jewelry house also unveiled a collection of smaller, less exclusive and less expensive fine jewelry egg pendants called, “Les Frissons De Faberge.” Prices reportedly start at $6,000.

More than 60 different designs are included in this collection of egg pendants, which like the larger more expensive jeweled egg pendants, reinterprets Peter Carl Fabergé’s iconic Fabergé themes, skills and artistry. While the jewelry house is known for its iconic Imperial Eggs created from 1885 till 1917, the majority of the jeweled eggs produced by Faberge during this period were miniature ones that were popular gifts at Easter.

The smaller eggs offer a choice of materials, techniques and styles such as carved stones and minerals, as varied as rock crystal, chrysoprase, snowflake obsidian, lavender jade, jadeite, pink opal, rutilated quartz, jasper and turquoise. There’s also a choice of quilted gold, brushed gold, engraved gold and colored gold in exotic red, pink, green, yellow and white enamels and lacquer, Rococo gold-work and pavé-set gems. 

For example, a cluster of Zénaïde egg lockets is inspired by traditional Uzbek textiles, their intricate geometric patterns set with precious gems.  

Each group of small fine jewelry egg pendants has its own story to tell, from the 18th century Rococo style favored by Peter Carl Fabergé, through the tales of the minerals and magical stone flowers of the fabled “Mistress of Copper Mountain,” to the gifts and presents that were an essential part of life at the Imperial Court.

The individual collections include Oeuf Cadeau, Oeuf Matelassé Empereur, in quilted gold, Oeuf Impératrice and Oeuf Impératrice Emeraude, with its lush emerald tassel, the Oeuf Rosa Cloisonné, with cloisonné enameled roses, Oeuf Rococo, Oeuf Barocco, Oeuf Sophia, Oeuf Nina, Oeuf Spirale, with dancing spiraling lines of gems, and Oeuf Pur, in simple, silky enamels.