Why You Should Be Paying Attention To The Jewelry Industry Summit

JIS presentation by Dorothee Gizenga, executive director of Diamond Development Initiative 

By Teresa Frye, TechForm Advanced Casting

I was intrigued when I received an email last January promoting the inaugural “Jewelry Industry Summit.” an open forum on sustainability and responsible sourcing for our industry. Although I wasn’t sure quite what to expect with an open forum format, and was even less sure about what I might be able to contribute. I registered because I wanted to learn more about the emerging trend for responsible jewelry. As casters for the trade, my company is increasingly asked to provide certified recycled metal, and this is just one indicator among many of the consumer’s budding desires for ethically sourced materials.

The Summit was held in New York City on March 11-13 and was attended by 150 people representing a wide cross-section of the jewelry industry. I think it can best be described as a high-energy think tank. I was struck by the amount of talent in the room, ranging from seasoned early adopters of the green movement, to forward-thinking companies that want to stay one step ahead of the consumer’s desires, to even a few skeptics that think the whole notion is overblown. I was equally struck by the amount of passion in the room. There was a palpable sense of doing the right thing, for humanity, the planet and ultimately the jewelry businesses themselves. I have to say it stirred my inner activist in a way I have not yet experienced in this industry, and I’m the kind of person that gets stirred on a regular basis. It felt like more than just lively discussion; it seemed that a nascent movement was truly upon us.

Exaggeration? Perhaps. But one thing is for sure. If we as a trade don’t tell our own story, we risk that the consumer, or heaven forbid, Hollywood will. And they are not likely to get it right. The Summit was a pre-emptive strike on the path to our telling a good story. It was refreshing to see the trade pull together and focus solely on consumer concerns and the inherent importance of cleaning up the supply chain. We know for sure that diseases such as silicosis, the scourge of artisanal stone cutting, are 100% preventable through education and access to proper equipment. We know that Fairmining practices help indigenous populations to earn a just wage and not have to sacrifice their health just to put bread on the table. We know these things and now we are being called upon to act.

Infrastructure towards a more sustainable supply chain already exists in the form of NGOs and non-profits like the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) in France, and Diamond Development Initiative (DDI) in Canada, among many others. In addition, non-profit international standards organizations that range from mine to retail such as the Responsible Jewellery Council also offer companies a road map to ethical sourcing. It seems to me that this is an opportunity we can choose to embrace, or alternatively choose to ignore in the hopes that consumer demand to know where products come from is just a passing fad. While no one denies this is a tall mountain to climb, it’s time to strap on our crampons and take the high road.

Read the entire JIS Final Report released March 31 here.

For more information the Jewelry Industry Summit’s upcoming events click here.

Teresa Frye is founder of TechForm, which specializes in the casting of platinum group metals for the jewelry, medical, and aerospace industries. She is also founder of the Portland Jewelry Symposium, an annual gathering of custom jewelers, designers, and retailers described as a “great think tank” for jewelers who are passionate about their craft. Frye is a renowned specialist on the casting of platinum group metals who speaks at jewelry events throughout the world. 

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$1.3 million Pen, Luxury Watch Unveiled At Montblanc’s 110th Anniversary Celebration

Montblanc continued its year-long celebration of its 110-year anniversary by showcasing a well-rounded collection of products Tuesday led by a one-of-a-kind $1.3 million writing instrument and a limited-edition high complicated watch. This coincided with a black tie dinner in New York with Hugh Jackman as the guest of honor. 

The new collections are based on Montblanc’s first writing instrument, the Rouge et Noir (“Red and Black”), introduced in 1909, when the company was named the Simplo Filler pen company. It was crafted in black ebonite and fitted with a red-crowned cap. A year later the company took on the Montblanc name and in 1913 crowned each pen with its iconic 6-pointed star emblem, representing the peak of Mont Blanc. During the 1920s the company designed the serpent clip for some of its writing instruments as an expression of the Art Deco period. 

Montblanc recreated this history with a new collection of writing instruments, timepieces, leather goods, cufflinks and jewelry called “Montblanc Heritage Collection, Rouge & Noir.” 

The crown jewel is the Ultimate Serpent Limited Edition 1 (top photo and below). The unique piece is priced at 1.2 million euro ($1.37 million) and is already sold, although those who attended the anniversary dinner were able to view the artisan, bejeweled pen. 

A 6.1-carat internally flawless diamond cut in the shape of the Mont Blanc star crowns the writing instrument. The body along with the serpent that entwines it are made of 99 grams of 18k rose gold, the most gold ever used in a Montblanc fountain pen. Weighing over 130g in total, the cap and barrel are set with approximately 1,950 dark blue sapphires in a pavé setting weighing 15.34 carats. The hand-crafted skin of the golden snake is topped with 153 diamonds cut in geometric shapes. When the writing instrument is closed, the serpent can be seen starting with the head on the clip, then winding down to the end of the cone. When the cap is removed, a second serpent becomes visible, with the head starting on the nib and once again ending on the cone. The 18k rose gold nib is decorated with an engraving of the snake’s head, with two rubies representing its eyes.

The other Rouge et Noir watch is the Collection Villeret Tourbillon Bi-Cylindrique 110 Years Anniversary Limited Edition (pictured above and below). Only three pieces have been made.

The most striking visual feature of the 52mm 18k red gold watch is a hand-engraved, black serpent made of anthracite that is coiled within the bezel, wrapping around the timepiece display. The serpent theme continues on the back of the case, this time hand-engraved in 18k red gold.

Another visual aspect that is more subtle is the Mystery Hours, in which regate-shaped hands appear to be floating above the small dial on the bottom half of the watch display. Two wafer-thin transparent sapphire crystal discs—one with the hour hand embossed on it and the other with the minutes hand—are linked to the movement and turn to indicate the time. The inspiration was the mysterious clocks of the 19th century, in which the original designs hid the mechanism in the clock case. 

The timepiece, including the hand-crafted, Calibre MB M65.63 manual movement, was developed at Montblanc’s Villeret artisan workshop. Unlike the Mystery Hours, a significant portion of the movement can be seen within the main display—most notably, the minute-tourbillon on the top half of the display. It’s detached from the movement and revolves in a case of its own. The watch has a 46-hour power reserve. The large escapement is composed of a bi-cylindrical hairspring that was developed by the Villeret manufacturer exclusively for the Montblanc Collection Villeret. It is one a few watch manufacturers that produces its own balance springs. 

Hugh Jackman, the actor, singer and producer, led the event at the Rainbow Room, the rooftop restaurant at 30 Rockefeller Plaza, a place he said held significant meaning for him because he was going to take his wife, Deborra-Lee, there for an evening of dinner with dancing for a surprise fifth anniversary gift. However, he had to film late that evening and she ended up spending the evening out with Meg Ryan. The couple will celebrate their 20th anniversary April 11.

Jackman has been associated with Montblanc for three years and described the Hamburg-based luxury brand as having a “family atmosphere.” 

“I’m the baby of the family but even after three years it is a place that I’m proud to be associated with, to call our friends,” he said. “It’s a great company and what it represents are qualities if I could half emulate I would be very happy. It is attention to detail, craftsmanship on the highest order, a real commitment to design. But more than anything what I love, is they have one eye permanently on the past and their heritage; but one eye permanently on the future…. As an artist, you can’t rest, you have to keep creating you have to be innovative, you have to keep moving forward (and) you have to take risks.”

Jackman was the top draw among several high-profile celebrities that included actress Kate Bosworth, Montblanc brand ambassador Charlotte Casiraghi, socialite Olivia Palermo and her husband, Johannes Huebl. 

Montblanc began celebrating its anniversary in January at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) with several events attended by brand ambassadors Charlotte Casiraghi of Monaco and Taiwanese actress Gwei Lun Mei, and new nautical themed timepieces. 

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Zaha Hadid’s Leaves Landmark Jewelry Line For Georg Jensen Before Untimely Death

The Georg Jensen cuff bracelet designed by Zaha Hadid

The story I was going to write today was to be a bit different then how it now appears. One of the highlights from an otherwise lackluster Baselworld 2016 was the public introduction of a new Georg Jensen jewelry collection designed by the famed architect Zaha Hadid. 

But the narrative changed with the sudden and unexpected death of Ms. Hadid Thursday. The world’s most famous and accomplished woman architect died of a heart attack. She was 65. 

Zaha Hadid Photo courtesy of Georg Jensen

The jewelry collection she designed for Georg Jensen, called the “Georg Jensen X Zaha Hadid The Lamellae Collection,” has the potential to be a landmark moment for the famed Danish silversmith brand. That may still be the case but it also will be likely remembered as Ms. Hadid’s last completed project—even though it is on a much smaller scale than her futuristic curved buildings. 

Georg Jensen ring designed by Zaha Hadid

Ms. Hadid, in a prepared statement, discussed working at a smaller scale and with nature-inspired shapes that are synonymous with the Georg Jensen brand.

“Working with Georg Jensen presented an opportunity to express our ideas in different scales and through different media,” she said. “Our starting point was the Danish house’s design links to nature. There is an inherent integrity within the organic structural logic found in nature and we often look at the coherence of natural systems when we work to create environments. Our challenge was to translate that into something that can be worn; to reinterpret the rich history and tradition of Georg Jensen’s design approach into something new.”

The cuff bracelet worn by the new CEO of Georg Jensen, Eva-Lotta Sjöstedt during Baselworld 2016. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

The jewelry collection of five rings and three cuff bangles were inspired by the Wangjing Soho near Beijing, designed by Ms. Hadid, an approximate 4.2-million square-foot retail and office complex of three curvilinear asymmetric buildings that appear to circle one another and change appearance with the light of the day and the angle they are viewed. The buildings with distinct lines between each floor of windows have been described as appearing like “dancing Chinese fans” and “curved sails.” The architect has reportedly said the buildings were supposed to resemble koi swimming around each other in a pond. 

The full collection in sterling silver plated black rhodium set with black diamonds. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Georg Jensen was acquired in 2012 by the holding company, Investcorp and David Chu, who serves as creative director and chairman of the brand. His task he told me a year ago was to take the company’s heritage and modernize it for the 21st Century. One of the things he started doing was to develop partnerships with well known designers and artists, which was part of the company’s heritage that somehow it lost. 

As the story goes Chu sat next to Ms. Hadid at dinner in Beijing for the official opening of the Wangjing Soho project in September 2014. They immediately decided then to collaborate on a jewelry line.

Also involved in the project was Meeling Wong, Georg Jensen managing director of Jewelry. Wong said she first met Ms. Hadid in November 2014 at her London headquarters. Wong described the working process as a "true collaboration."

"We worked very closely with her design team, in person, phone and emails. It was a very fluid process and a close partnership. I went to their London studio to show the first prototypes, and met with them several times in person," Wong said. "Zaha trusted that we would execute her designs so that they can be worn."

Crafted in both sterling silver and sterling silver plated black rhodium set with black diamonds, the jewels in the collection feature smooth flowing ribbon-like shapes contrasted with sharp edges. The silver naturally alternates between a polished and matte effect, while the black rhodium set with black diamond pieces have a subtle gleam to the graphic, architectural forms. The signature piece in the collection has to be the lengthy cuff bracelet that wraps the wrist and engages light. 

The public seating area just outside the Georg Jensen exhibition space

This is not just a “starchitect” putting her name on a product. This is a well-thought out contemporary, architecturally influenced collection of jewels that express modern elegance.

Wong described Ms. Hadid's involvement with the project as "total engagement and focus on arriving at a final result that did not compromise or dilute the original design and concept."

For Georg Jensen it is by far the most on-brand jewelry product, and perhaps overall product, it has produced since the new owners began its campaign to rejuvenate the brand. It is an original design with a contemporary motif that moves the brand forward into the modern era. 

The brand must have known it had something special as it pulled out all the stops in presenting the collection in Baselworld. This included creating an installation of the design motif in the exhibition space and seating area just outside the booth. 

“There is continuity in Zaha’s collection—and, indeed, in her work—that reflects the history of our iconic jewelry design celebrating nature’s seemingly simple yet mathematical forms,” Chu said in a prepared statement. “It is a proud continuation of Georg Jensen’s modernist design signature and a century of collaborating with designers whose vision transforms the way we think.”

And, unfortunately, it is also the end of the relationship.

The collection will be available in September.

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14-Carat Oppenheimer Blue Diamond Could Fetch $45 Million

The 14.62-carat “Oppenheimer Blue” will be the lead item in Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale, May 18 at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. The auction house says it is “the largest and finest Fancy Vivid Blue diamond ever offered at auction.”

The rectangular-shaped gem has an estimate of $38 - $45 million, which falls within striking distance of the “Blue Moon of Josephine,” a 12.03-carat cushion-shaped Fancy Internally Flawless Vivid blue diamond that set a world auction record of $48.4 million in November, 2015.

The Oppenheimer Blue was previously owned by Sir Philip Oppenheimer, a member of the family that once controlled the De Beers Mining Company. He is credited with serving for 45 years as chairman of the Central Selling Organization, the sales cartel set up by De Beers to keep strict control over the diamond supply worldwide. Today he is remembered as the architect of creating stability in the international diamond chain and for his incomparable gem collection, which includes the Oppenheimer Blue. He died in 1995 at the age of 83.

“Sir Phillip could have had any diamond he wanted, but he chose this one, with its perfect hue, impeccable proportions and fabulous rectangular shape,” said François Curiel, chairman of Christie’s Asia Pacific and China.

The color of the Oppenheimer Blue was given the rare Fancy Vivid grade by the Gemological Institute of America, which issued the report on the stone. In blue diamonds, Fancy Vivid specifically describes those that are medium to dark in tone and strong to very strong in saturation. In a past GIA study of 462 blue diamonds, only 1 percent were Fancy Vivid.

“It is well known that extraordinary skill is required to extract the ‘best’ color from fancy colored diamonds,” Tom Moses, GIA executive VP. “Achieving the strongest colors in traditional shapes such as the 15 carat Oppenheimer Vivid Blue can only be achieved with a highly saturated intrinsic color of the rough diamond. This blue diamond’s color and clarity combined with its traditional cutting style and provenance is truly exceptional.” 

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$35 Million Estimate For 10-Carat De Beers Millennium Blue Diamond

A second statement blue diamond has appeared on the auction market a few months after a similar gem set an all-time auction record.

The “De Beers Millennium Jewel 4,” the largest oval-shaped Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond ever to appear at auction, will be the lead item at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels & Jadeite sale on April 5 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. 

The rare 10.10-carat oval-shaped Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Blue diamond has an estimate of $30 - $35 million.

The blue diamond, with the utilitarian name of “De Beers Millennium Jewel 4,” is offered for sale from an Asian private collection, Sotheby’s said.

While the estimate for this blue diamond is quite hefty, if achieved it will fall well short of the most expensive gem ever sold at auction. That honor goes to the “Blue Moon of Josephine,” a 12.03-carat cushion-shaped Fancy Internally Flawless Vivid blue diamond that set a world auction record of $48.4 million and a world record price-per-carat for any diamond or gemstone at just over $4 million. It was purchased November, 2015 at Sotheby’s Geneva sale by billionaire Hong Kong real estate investor Joseph Lau, the same person who paid a record $28.5 million for a 16.08-carat cushion shaped fancy vivid pink diamond at Christie’s Geneva sale a day earlier.

The De Beers Millennium Jewel 4 is the only oval-shaped stone among the 12 rare diamonds—eleven blue and one colorless—that form the De Beers Millennium Jewels collection, unveiled by the diamond mining giant in 2000 in celebration of the millennium. All of the gems were unearthed at the historic Cullinan Mine in South Africa, once owned by De Beers. Since their initial appearance at the Millennium Exhibition in 2000, only one of these diamonds has appeared on the open market.

Blue diamonds make up less than 0.1 percent of all diamonds recovered at the Cullinan mine (now owned by Petra Diamonds and renamed the Premiere Mine). These diamonds owe their color to impurities of boron during the stone’s formation, and many are naturally modified with a grey secondary tone, or an uneven saturation with areas of colorless windowing. 

“Blue diamonds of any intensity of color are amongst the rarest of all gems. Highly saturated blue diamonds over ten carats combined with an Internally Flawless clarity grade are extremely rare,” said Tom Moses, executive VP and chief research and laboratory officer of the Gemological Institute of America, which issued the grading report on the gem. “There have been fewer and fewer new rough diamonds discovered over the last decade that produce this color. Most of the recent diamonds offered for sale in this category are coming from private collections—not diamond mines.” 

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Baselworld 2016: Swiss Watch Sales Down 3.3%

The Swiss watch industry reported that the value of its exports fell 3.3 percent to 21.5 billion Swiss francs ($21.75 billion) in 2015. However, compared to the more than 20 percent increase in exports for the five prior years, it isn’t all that bad. However, François Thiébaud, president of the Baselworld Swiss Exhibitors Committee, and Sylvie Ritter, managing director of Baselworld, described the current environment for the industry as “gloomy,” during the annual press conference Wednesday at Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and jewelry fair. The eight-day international show officially begins Thursday. One thing that wasn’t mentioned was smart watches. It was the major topic at last year’s press conference. There are a number of geopolitical and economic issues around the world affecting Swiss watch sales. They include: the turbulence in the Chinese economy, conflicts in the Middle East and the slowing of the Russian economy because of Western economic sanctions. The Chinese economic problems resulted in a drastic decline in the sale of watches in Hong Kong, the world’s largest market for the Swiss watch industry. Perhaps the biggest issue was the depegging of the Swiss franc to the Euro in January 2015, which led to an approximate 20 percent appreciation of the franc compared to other currencies, Thiébaud said during his presentation Swiss watch industry figures for 2015. By country, Hong Kong had by far the largest decline in the value of Swiss exports, down 22.9 percent. The US market (the world’s second largest) experienced an 0.8 percent decline. In terms of the other top markets, China saw a 4.7 percent decline, Italy was the lone bright spot in major markets with a 6.4 percent increase, with Japan down 1.9 percent. The rest of the world, which accounts for nearly 56 percent of total Swiss watch exports saw a 2 percent increase. In terms of materials, steel timepieces experienced a steeper than average year-over-year decline in value at 4.9 percent. These watches accounted for half the overall fall in export sales. Gold watch exports declined by 4.8 percent. Bimetal timepieces fell by 2.6 percent. In terms of the number of pieces, steel products fell by 5.7 percent, while still accounting for one out of two exported watches. The press conference was also the opportunity to introduce Eric Bertrand as president of the Baselworld Exhibitors. He replaced Jacques J. Duchêne who died suddenly and unexpectedly a day before Baselworld’s 2015 press conference. Bertrand took extra time to note his experience in the watch, jewelry and gemstone and said will represent all exhibitors equally. In the past few years, Baselworld has become more dedicated to luxury, renovating the Baselworld fairgrounds and charging more for exhibitors to enter. This has led to the angry jewelry exhibitors. This also led to a decrease in the number of exhibitors from 2,000 in 2010 to 1,500 this year, which Bertrand said was planned. “I am equipped to represent Baselworld across the board,” he said. 

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High Jewelers Bring Their Art To TEFAF

High Jeweler Wallace Chan in front of his "Dawn of the Universe" art installation during TEFAF 2016. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

The world’s most important classic art fair, TEFAF, The European Fine Art Fair in Maastricht, Netherlands, has always included a selection of jewelers to mix with the impressive art collections. This year is no different as seven jewelers and several more dealers in antique jewels and watches are among the exhibitors at the fair, which runs till March 20.

A selection of original Verdura jewels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

In keeping true the artistic theme, many jewelers presented works of original expression, but perhaps the biggest impact was made by a nearly 10-foot tall horizontal art installation made of titanium, aluminum, stainless steel and a mirror by Hong Kong jewelry artist, Wallace Chan. It’s called the “Dawn of Universe” and it’s a name quite apt as it reminds me of the monolith in the Stanley Kubrick film, 2001 Space Odyssey. But this one is a light brown color with shades of green, red and cream with uneven swirls that move with light. It’s adorned with a 1,400-carat faceted blue topaz, amethyst and finally with several putti clinging to the structure in playful poses.

A selection of original Belperron jewels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

This is Chan’s first time exhibiting at the fair and he says, in the way that only he can say it, that he feels the presence of thousands of years of art represented at the show. “He is openly absorbing a lot when he is looking at the antiques and people from the past,” as translated by Cherry Rao, Chan’s editor. “He can feel them hammering the pieces, painting the pictures, making the works.”

TEFAF board member Michel Witmer in front of "Smell," the recently discovered work by Rembrandt. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Rao added that neither of them realized the importance of TEFAF in the art world. Then Chan attended the show a few years ago and the opportunity presented itself to exhibit. Even early in the morning before the big crowds came his exhibition space was overflowing with people. They came not only to view his artistic jewels but to meet the man, whose celebrity status is growing.  He really does seem at home here.

New jewels made of aluminum by Hemmerle. Photo by Anthony DeMarco 

“The people here are really cultivated and kind,” he said.

The high caliber of the exhibitors and visitors was a constant theme among the jewelry exhibitors.

“The quality is unbelievable. In every field,” said Ward Landrigan, who owns the Italian jewelry brand, Verdura, with his son, Nico.

1940s Hawaii bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

It took four years for the Landrigans to be accepted as an exhibitor, which is a rather short amount of time for TEFAF. It was also perfect timing as the two have recently relaunched the French brand, Belperron.

“When Belperron came along we wanted to present it to the world. This is the world,” Landrigan said. The exhibition space was evenly divided with Verdura and Belperron jewels, with both new creation based on the original drawings and original creations by the brands namesakes, (Fulco Di Verdura and Suzanne Belperron) who each popularized their jewelry creations in mid-20th Century.

A display of antique and period jewels by Wartski. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Olivier Reza, the head of the French jewelry brand, Alexandre Reza, is exhibiting at TEFAF for the second consecutive year. He notes that it requires effort to come to the hospitable and picturesque  city of Maastricht in the southern part of the Netherlands so those who attend the annual art fair are motivated.

Riveria necklace made with old European cut diamonds by Hancocks. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

“It’s the most exquisite and classy event I’ve ever seen,” he said. “Those who show up are real passionate people who are looking to satisfy their appetite for beauty…. They have an eye. They have a passion. They can be converted. There is no better place to show these objects.”

A 63.80-carat natural yellow sapphire on a ring from Hancocks, a London-based jeweler. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

In addition to the contemporary jewelry designers, there are several well-known dealers who specialize in rare and collectible jewels and watches who are veteran exhibitors at the fair. British jeweler, Hancocks, brought a collection of jewels by Verdura, Pierre Sterlé and Lalique, among others.

A selection of jewels by antique jewelry specialist, Véronique Bamps. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Another British jeweler, Wartski,  which has an appointment to Queen Elizabeth and Prince Charles, and is a specialist in Faberge, has been exhibiting at the fair, now in its 41st year, almost from its beginnings.

The works of German goldsmith, Otto Jakob. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Geoffrey Munn, the firm’s managing director, laments that it is one of the few places where people have the knowledge and courage to make purchases based on their personal passions.

“People are buying with their ears rather than their eyes,” he said.

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