‘Rockefeller Emerald’ Poised To Break Two World Auction Records

It has size, provenance and "exceptional" quality. Now the 18.4-carat “Rockefeller Emerald” is poised to set new world auction records for an emerald jewel and an emerald per carat.

The Colombian emerald set on a diamond and platinum ring by famed New York jeweler, Raymond C. Yard, will be the highlight of Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction on June 20. The gem, which passed through several members of the Rockefeller family, has a presale estimate of $4 million - $6 million.

It seems fitting that the sale will be held at Christie’s Rockefeller Center headquarters, named after the same family that owned the emerald ring.

The current world record for an emerald jewel and an emerald per carat is believed to be held by a 23.46-carat emerald and diamond pendant brooch by Bulgari, formerly owned by Elizabeth Taylor. It sold for more than $6.5 million ($280,000 per carat) in December 2011 as part of the landmark auctions of “The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor” at Christie’s New York.

If the emerald sells for its $6 million high estimate it will easily beat the current per-carat record. If it exceeds its high estimate it would likely surpass the overall record.

The emerald of Colombian origin was purchased in 1930 by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., the only son among the five children of Standard Oil co-founder John D. Rockefeller. It was part of a brooch believed to have been created by Van Cleef & Arpels for his wife, Abby Aldrich Rockefeller.

When Aldrich Rockefeller passed away in 1948, the brooch was disassembled and the 18.4-carat emerald was given to his son, David Rockefeller. The son then asked Yard to mount the gem on a ring.

Yard—the personal jeweler to several Rockefeller family members—created a classic and understated diamond and platinum setting for the gem. The ring is considered to be one of Yard’s most important private commissions, according to Christie’s.

Christie’s says the Colombian emerald is described by the American Gemological Laboratories as “exceptional,” and possesses what AGL calls an “unusual combination of size, provenance, absence of treatment and quality factors [that contribute] favorably to its rarity and desirability.”

“Due to its rarity, an emerald of this quality and significant weight is not readily found in the market, and it is ranked at the top of its class,” Christie’s added in a statement. “Though it has passed on to other hands, this superb Colombian emerald still embodies the grandeur of the Rockefeller family name.”

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24-Ct. Graff Diamond Ring Could Fetch $3.5 Million at Auction

Graff diamond ring. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

Superb jewels, top-quality colorless diamonds, rare gemstones, natural pearls, and signed jewels from Bulgari, Cartier, Boivin, Graff, JAR, Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston will be part of Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction on November 16.

Several private collections also will be part of the auction at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, including the collection of Richard Burton’s former wife, Susan Hunt Burton, and a private collection featured in a separate catalog: “Timeless Elegance - Important Jewels from the Collection of a European Family.” (Follow link to read more about this collection).

The top piece among the 360 lots for sale is a 24.30-ct. oval cut diamond ring by Graff. The D color, internally flawless gem is estimated to fetch $2.9 million to $3.5 million (top picture).

The auction of haute joaillerie is expected to fetch more than $50 million.

Diamond “en tremblant” flower brooch, by Bulgari, 1960s. Estimate $110,000 - $220,000. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

Bulgari will command its own section of more than 40 lots in the upcoming sale. It amounts to the largest sale of Bulgari jewels since a Christie’s Geneva auction in 1993. Among the highlights is an emerald, ruby and diamond sautoir suspending a hexagonal-shaped emerald of 44.90 carats, dated from the 1970s and estimated at $270,000 – $360,000. Also for sale will be a diamond and yellow gold necklace estimated at $73,000 – $89,000.

Diamond and yellow gold necklace by Bulgari. Estimate $70,000 - $90,000. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

Among the colored gemstones and diamonds to be offered are an 8.11-carat, oval-cut Burmese ruby estimated at $2 million – $2.5 million, a pair of Colombian pear-shaped emerald and diamond earrings, weighing 23.66 and 23.55 carats, estimated at $1.8 million – $2.5 million, and a 55.98-carat Kashmir cabochon sapphire mounted with diamonds as ring by Mouawad, estimated at $800,000 – $1.2 million. A 30.15-carat, D color, VS1 clarity, Type IIa pear-shaped diamond with an antique cut is estimated to sell at $1.9 million to $2.3 million.

Pair of detachable 7.60 & 7.57cts pear-shaped diamond and diamond ear pendants by Van Cleef & Arpels has an auction estimate of $1.5 million - $2 million. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

Richard Burton, the Welsh actor of stage and screen, was at the height of his fame when he married Susan Hunt, an international model, in August 1976. Among the jewels from the Susan Burton collection are 6.17 carats oval-cut diamond ring (estimate: $56,000 – $78,000), an emerald and diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels (Estimate: $45,000 – $67,000) and a two row cultured pearl, pink tourmaline and diamond necklace with cultured pearl, sapphire and ruby ear pendants (Estimate: SFr. $40,000 – $63,000).

Emerald, ruby and diamond sautoir suspending an hexagonal-shaped 44.90-ct. emerald by Bulgari has an auction estimate of $260,000 - $360,000. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

From the “Property of a Royal House, Christie’s November sale will present three fancy yellow diamonds: a 79-carat cushion-shaped diamond ring weighing estimated $1.5 million – $2 million, a 67.54-carat, brilliant-cut diamond brooch estimated $1.4 million – $1.5 million and a 32.62-carat brilliant-cut diamond ring with an estimate of $700,000 – $800,000.

From what is billed as the “Estate of a Gentleman,” a selection of 19 jewels created by the famous Swiss jeweler Meister mainly in the 1960s and 1970s. Among the highlights are a diamond fringe necklace estimated at $230,000 – $330,000) and a gold, diamond ruby and emerald snake bracelet estimated at $14,000 – $17,000).

Mystery-Set sapphire and diamond leaf brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1930s, has an auction estimate of $300,000 - $500,000. Photo credit: Denis Hayoun - Diode SA

A group of Period and Art Deco jewels featured in the sale is highlighted by a diamond necklace created by René Boivin, circa 1960, (estimate: $340,000 – $440,000) and an emerald and diamond bracelet mounted in platinum, 1930s, estimated at $400,000 – $600,000.

Gemstone Found in North Carolina Farm Produces 65-ct. Emerald

The Carolina Emperor, photo by Terry Ledford provided by the AP

A North Carolina farm has yielded an emerald that may be the biggest ever uncovered in North America, The Associated Press reports.

This Aug 17, 2009, photo provided by Terry Ledford shows the Carolina Emperor emerald prior to cutting, with a U.S. 25-cent coin in the foreground, photo provided by the AP.

The 65-carat emerald, nicknamed the Carolina Emperor, was cut from a gem pulled from a farm in the rural community of Hiddenite, about 60 miles northwest of Charlotte, the AP reports. Terry Ledford, 53, found the roughly 2-inch-square chunk rimmed with spots of iron a year ago on a 200-acre farm owned by business partner Renn Adams, 90, and his siblings. The rural community of Hiddenite is named for a paler stone that resembles emerald.

Photo by Christie's

Gemologist C.R. "Cap" Beesley, who reportedly examined the emerald, who reportedly examined the emerald, compared it to an emerald brooch once owned by Empress Catherine the Great of Russia (pictured left). The brooch, also approximately 65 cts., sold at auction in April for $1.65 million.

100-Carat Diamond Sells For $22 Million At Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s called it the “perfect’ and “ultimate” diamond and “unlike any other before.” Now it can be called the $22 million diamond.

The 100.20-carat, D-Color, Internally Flawless, emerald-cut diamond was easily the top lot Tuesday at Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale.

The Type IIa gem joins a group of only five other diamonds of more than 100 carats with similar attributes that have been sold at auction worldwide, the auction house said. The gem is further distinguished by its emerald cut, making it the largest perfect diamond with a classic emerald-cut ever to be offered at auction.

The gem came from a rough that weighed more than 200 carats and was mined by De Beers in southern Africa. It took more than a year to craft the diamond from the rough.

Gary Schuler, head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in New York, compared the diamond to “a pool of icy water.”

The sale price (which includes buyer’s premium) was within its estimate and amounts to $220,459 per carat. The buyer was not named.

The auction totaled nearly $65.1 million in which 79.9 percent was sold by lot and 84.4 percent by value. The other best-selling lots were dominated by colored diamonds and gems, particularly Kashmir sapphires. Cartier pieces were also in high demand.

The other top lots from the Magnificent Jewels sale are as follows:

* A 22.30-carat Internally Flawless oval diamond ring sold for $3.25 million ($145,740 per carat).

* The 35.02-carat Flagler Emerald, described as an important emerald-cut classic Colombian emerald and diamond pendant, sold for $2.77 million ($79,098 per carat)—well above its high estimate of $1.5 million.

* The Baron de Rothschild Necklace, described as an emerald, sapphire, lapis lazuli and diamond pendant-Necklace, designed by Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924, sold for $2.59 million.

* A 6.24-carat, pear-shaped fancy purplish pink diamond with VVS2 clarity and Kashmir sapphire ring and sold for $2.4 million ($386,218 per carat).

* An 11.41-carat, Internally Flawless, round-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy light pink diamond and diamond ring sold for $1.9 million.

* An 11.90-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring of by Cartier, circa 1915, sold for $1.9 million ($162,185 per carat).

* Iconic emerald, ruby, diamond and enamel ‘Tutti Frutti’ Bracelet, Cartier, New York, circa 1928, sold for $1.6 million.

* 14.33-carat marquise-shaped diamond ring, D color and VVS1 clarity, sold for $1.15 million ($80,251 per carat).

* A 17-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., circa 1960, formerly from the collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon sold for just over $1 million ($60,588 per carat).

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Piaget Launches ‘Secrets & Lights – A Mythical Journey’ High Jewelry Collection

18k white gold cuff set with a cushion-cut emerald (3.46 cts), 8 marquise-cut emeralds (4.80 cts), 8 marquise-cut blue sapphires ( 7.66 cts), 10 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.08 cts) and feathers

Venice and Samarkand are different and unique in so many ways. But what the two cities do share a connection to one of the world’s most storied trading routes in history: The Silk Road.

Secret ring in 18k white gold set with a cushion-cut blue sapphire (1.43 cts), 71 marquise cut diamonds (4.83 cts), 78 brilliant cut diamonds (approx. 2.67 cts) and enamel. the top slides open to reveal a night blue sky crafted in Grand Feu champlevé enamel

The diverse 4,000 mile network of trade routes on land and sea were crucial not only for the exchange of goods from away places, but for its interaction with a myriad of cultures. The Swiss luxury brand, Piaget, used this dynamic environment as the inspiration for its latest high jewelry collection: “Secrets & Lights – A Mythical Journey.”

18k pink gold necklace set with a cushion cut emerald (4.18 cts), 84 marquise-cut diamonds (9.30 cts), 208 turquoise beads (16.22 cts) and 430 brilliant-cut diamonds (7.44 cts)

The collection was unveiled a week ago during the haute couture shows in Paris.

18k pink gold bracelet set with 105 marquise-cut diamonds (5.18 cts), five turquoise beads (4.50 cts) and 717 brilliant-cut diamonds (9.36 cts)

The Swiss luxury brand created 94 jewels using a variety of colorful gems combined with diamonds and gold to recreate this cultural mix. However, the most attention is paid to perhaps two of the most legendary cities along the 4,000 mile trade route: Venice and Samarkand.

18k pink gold ring set with a round-cut red spinel (6.31 cts), 12 round-cut red spinels ( 0.44 ct), eight pear-shaped red spinels (0.80 ct), 16 pear-shaped diamonds (3.20 cts), 14 princess-cut diamonds (0.88 ct), six marquise-cut diamonds (0.60 ct) and 150 brilliant cut diamonds (0.80 ct)

Piaget says the two cities were chosen for their cultural wealth, architecture and creativity. “Each place provides a remarkable field of expression from which the exceptional artisans in the workshops of the Piaget manufacture have been inspired,” the company said in a statement.

18k white gold necklace set with a pear shaped ruby (4.41 cts), 45 pear-shaped rubies (48.90 cts), a princess-cut diamond (1.77 cts) and 158 brilliant cut diamonds

Samarkand, on the plain of Zarafshan in Uzbekistan, whose Persian name means “supplier of gold,” is an ancient desert city. Piaget’s jewelry reflects the colors of the city’s public square (the Registan) and the desert.

18k white gold earrings set with four pear shaped rubies (4.23 cts), two princess-cut diamonds (1.41 cts) and 38 brilliant cut diamonds (4.42 cts)

For example, a long necklace with cascading turquoise beads is contrasted by emerald-heart flowers and a scattering of diamonds throughout. A four-leaf flower-ring is centered with a Colombian emerald. An arabesque-style bracelet made of sculpted yellow gold that takes the appearance of fabric is punctuated by turquoise beads. Prong-set marquise-cut stones, taking the appearance of lacework, light up an airy necklace. Ear pendants with cascading diamond motifs punctuated by sapphires reflect light as it moves.

18K white gold earrings set with 40 marquise-cut blue sapphires (4.50 cts), 16 marquise-cut blue diamonds (8.78 cts) and 154 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.59 cts)

Meanwhile, the Venice portion of the collection is inspired by the light, water, architecture, art and mystery of the famed Italian city.

18k pink gold cuff set with a cushion-cut ruby (5.01 cts), eight marquise-cut rubies (3.38 cts), six marquise-cut pink spinels (7.20 cts), eight marquise-cut mandarin garnets ( 4.08 cts), 10 marquise-cut yellow beryls (4.66 cts) and 20 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.37 cts)

For example, a signature white gold cuff bracelet is adorned with a “bird-flower” that mimics the famous Venetian masks worn at balls. The central design includes a flurry of turquoise feathers in a marquetry pattern created by award-winning feather artist Nelly Saunier. An emerald serves as the heart of the design amid a constellation of sapphires and diamonds.

18K white gold emerald necklace set with a cushion-cut emerald (11.16 cts), 12 marquise-cut diamonds (4.20 cts), 32 turquoise beads (11.10 cts) and 151 brilliant-cut diamonds (9.86 cts)

A “secret” ring echoes Venetian celebrations. The sliding diamond and gold cover reveals a night blue sky crafted in Grand Feu champlevé enamel. The Palazzo ring uses interlacing red spinel and diamond motifs to evoke the flashing camera bulbs on the red carpet of the Venice Film Festival, or the royal box at the Teatro La Fenice. Long earrings with geometrically arranged rubies are inspired by Byzantine windows of the palazzos lining the Grand Canal. An embroidered pink gold cuff bracelet is topped with marquise-cut diamonds are reminiscent of the stone bars on the windows of the Bridge of Sighs.

18k white gold ring set with a cushion-cut emerald (7.29 cts), 12 marquise-cut diamonds (1.20 cts), four turquoise beads (approx. 0.50 ct) and 130 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.12 cts)

Along with the jewelry, the collection includes 38 new timepieces.

18k white gold earrings set with two pear shaped rubies (4.13 cts), two fancy-cut ruby roots (12.88 cts), two princess-cut diamond (1.41 cts) and 120 brilliant cut diamonds (2.93 cts)

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18k pink gold bracelet set with 88 marquise-cut diamonds (20.24 cts) and 776 brilliant-cut diamonds (10 cts)

Film Star Gina Lollobrigida To Auction Her Bulgari Jewels For Charity

Gina Lollobrigida wearing the Bulgari diamond necklace and bracelet combination as a tiara & the pair of emerald and diamond earclips. The items are included in the auction at Sotheby's Geneva.

Actress and sex symbol, Gina Lollobrigida, will sell 23 jewels from her Bulgari collection at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale on May 14. The auction will feature important Bulgari jewels from the 1950s and 1960s, worn by Lollobrigida at landmark moments in her career. Proceeds from the sale will benefit stem cell research.

Key pieces from the collection will travel to Hong Kong, London, New York and Rome before returning for exhibition in Geneva in advance of the sale.

“I have been lucky enough to be given many roles in life – as an actor, a mother, a photojournalist, an ambassador for FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations), and as an artist,” Lollobrigida said. “I began collecting jewels from Bulgari in the 1950s and 1960s, drawn by the wonderful craftsmanship and distinctive style of these pieces. They accompanied me on many journeys—both professional and personal—and are redolent of those times and the extraordinary people I met along the way.”

She continued, “I have decided the time is right to share them with other collectors. In so doing, I can also help a cause very close to my heart, that of stem cell research – treatment, which I believe should be freely available to every child. It is my wish that part of the proceeds from the sale will contribute to help fund an international hospital for stem cell research.”

David Bennett, Sotheby’s Switzerland and jewelry, Europe and Middle East chairman, added: “These exceptional jewels are evocative of both a woman, and an era. Not only do they reflect Gina Lollobrigida’s brilliance, but they are among the finest designs created by Bulgari in the “dolce vita” years of the 1950s and 1960s.”

Highlights from the sale include:

* Diamond necklace and bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954, (also worn by Miss Lollobrigida as a tiara) a favorite of Lollobrigida on landmark occasions, including receiving her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favorite – Female (estimate, $300,000 - $500,000).

* Pair of natural pearl and diamond pendants, Bulgari, 1964, worn by Lollobrigida on numerous public occasions, including to meet Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967 (estimate, $600,000 - $1 million).

* Diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, Bulgari, 1962 (estimate, $400,000-800,000).

* Emerald and diamond earclips, Bulgari, 1964. Each earclip suspends a detachable pendant set to the center with a pear-shaped emerald (estimate $150,000 - $250,000).

* Emerald and diamond brooch set to the center with a step-cut emerald weighing 27.57 carats (estimate, $150,000 - $250,000).

* Emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats, framed by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds (estimate $120,000 - $180,000).

For her commitment to various humanitarian organizations, she was nominated first Ambassadress for the FAO in 1999 and has worked closely with UNICEF, UNESCO, Médecins Sans Frontières, Mother Theresa of Calcutta and children in Romania.

In 2007, she received the honor from the Republic of San Marino of becoming the only woman to be featured in a special edition of four postal stamps bearing her portrait – each depicting a different facet of her career – as actor, photographer, sculptor and humanitarian. In 2008, in Washington, the Italian-American Foundation NIAF awarded her the “Lifetime Achievement Award” in recognition of her artistic life.

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The Marcial de Gomar Collection Of Emeralds To Be Auctioned This Month

Perhaps the most valuable private collection of emeralds is set to go on the auction block and it just got better with a rare pair of "cat's eye" emeralds. 

The sale of the Marcial de Gomar Collection of rare emeralds will be held at the Americas Society at 680 Park Ave. with online bidding at www.liveauctioneers.com. Guernsey’s auction house of New York will host the sale, which will be held April 25 at 7 p.m.

The Marcial de Gomar Collection includes more than 20 loose cut and rough emeralds, 13 pieces of emerald jewelry, and a selection of rare gold and silver coins. The collection belongs to Manuel Marcial de Gomar, who has more than 50 years in the emerald business, spanning from the legendary Muzo mines of Colombia to the U.S. retail market. His knowledge of rare emeralds has placed him in demand as an author, lecturer and consultant. While his family continues their involvement with these gems through the Marcial de Gomar Emeralds International retail and wholesale business in Key West, Fla., it is Mr. Marcial's lifelong personal collection that is being sold.

Featured lots include the following: 

The 887-carat “La Gloria,” the fourth largest known rough Colombian emerald from the Muzo mine. Its estimate is $3 million - $5 million. 

The newest addition to the auction is a matched pair of emeralds featuring the extremely rare cat’s eye emeralds, with a total weight of 74.52 carats. They were cut from a single 370-carat trapiche emerald (an emerald with rare six point radial pattern) and are believed to be the largest matched pair of Colombian cat’s eye emeralds in the world. Their combined estimate is nearly $2 million. 

Perhaps the most important piece in the collection is the Marcial de Gomar Star, the largest of only 11 star emeralds known to exist and perhaps the first of its kind as a double-sided star emerald, according to the auction house. Its estimate is $2 million - $3 million.

With a combined weight of 95.51 carats, the Tears of Fura is an extremely large and well-matched pair of fine teardrop shaped Colombian emeralds from Muzo mines. They have a combined estimate of $3 million - $4 million.

The Corona de Muzo necklace, centered with a 24.34-carat emerald from the famed shipwreck, the Nuestra Senora de Atocha. The gem is set in a 22k and 18k gold with crown details, featuring additional baguette and round cut diamonds and round cut emeralds. Its estimate is $5 million - $6 million.

Treasure hunter Mel Fisher selected Mr. Marcial to be the independent appraiser of all emeralds recovered from the Atocha. As payment he received a selection of emeralds from the world-famous wreck. A number of gold coins from the 1715 Fleet shipwreck are also part of the sale.

The entire collection will be presented to the public for the first time at the auction. 

Viewings will be held April 23, 1 p.m. – 6 p.m.; April 24, Noon – 7 p.m.; and April 25, Noon – 7 p.m. 

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Fair Trade Gem Company Shows Turnaround, Profit

A Gemfields emerald

Mine-to-market gem company Gemfields PLC reported a maiden profit of nearly $2.6 million for the first half of 2010, ended June 30—a marked turnaround from the same period of 2009 in which the London-based company reported a loss of $201.4 million.

In another turnaround revenues from emerald sales for the period were $20 million, compared with $815,456 for the same period in 2009.

While Gemfields has shares in several mining sites, by far its primary source of revenue and its identity is attached to its ownership of the Kagem emerald mine in Zambia, Africa, quite possibly the largest emerald mine in the world. The company is using the mine (which it purchased in 2007) as the sole source of its emeralds. It also owns a cutting and polishing facility in Jaipur, India, opened in 2008. Next, it’s working on building an exclusive distribution network to purchase rough as well as cut and polished emeralds from the mine. It also wants to work with third party companies to create a certification system for its emeralds and create verifiable fair-trade practices. Finally, it wants to develop a marketing program to be used throughout the supply chain.

Miners show an emerald pulled from the Kagem mine.

Gemfields says this mine-to-market strategy allows it to guarantee the provenance of every gem.

“Natural, untreated gems are at the heart of the operation,” the company says on its Web site. “Our focus—reliable and ethically-produced Zambian emeralds—uphold fair-trade practices while remaining in accordance with the highest level of environmental, social and safety standards. This mission holds true for every gemstone in our portfolio.”

It’s quite an ambitious agenda and at least some of it had to be put on hold as the company struggled through the worldwide economic crisis. But now that it has posted a profit, will it be able fully fund its agenda?

“Considering the extent of the challenges that we have faced over the past year, the vast number of new projects and the strategic changes that we have implemented across all divisions within the Group, I am rather pleased with our results and what has been achieved,” said Ian Harebottle, CEO of Gemfields. “We are now well on our way to positioning Gemfields as a market leader within the premium colored gemstone sector.”

The company reported that its cash at hand is $2.6 million, compared with $6.9 million at the same time in 2009. The estimated value of its emerald stock is estimated at $16.5 million, compared with $17.7 million in 2009.

The average revenue per carat of rough emerald and beryl (also mined at the site) is at96 per carat after a July 2010 auction, which took in a total of $7.5 million.

The company was able to cut costs slightly at the Kagem mine to $1.06 million, from $1.6 million in 2009.

Among the company’s marketing and promotional activities for the period included World Land Trust’s “Emeralds for Elephants” campaign and the Indian International Jewellery Show’s “Jewellery Designer of the Year” awards.

Gemfields is owned by Pallinghurst Resources, a South African private equity company. Pallinghurst purchased the Fabergé brand in 2008 and gave Gemfields the exclusive rights to provide Fabergé with emeralds. The first jewelry line under this new structure launched in 2009 aimed at the ultra wealthy consumer, followed by a more accessible 2010 collection.

Bulgari’s High Jewelry Collection Is A Colorful Italian Celebration

Platinum necklace set with a 19-carat cushion Sri Lanka sapphire, 17 South-sea pearls, 82 emerald beads, nine sapphires beads, 40 fancy diamonds and diamond pavé

There are few countries in the world whose people know how to celebrate life like Italy.

The Italian luxury brand, Bulgari, known nearly as much for presenting a lavish lifestyle as for its luxurious jewels, has put together a collection of more than 100 colorful jewels and watches that represents the diversity of Italian celebrations.

Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari Jewelry Creation & Gem Buying director, said the new collection named “Festa” (Italian for party) is inspired by the celebrations held throughout the country. It includes historical and modern-day festivals as well as children and adult celebrations. Some of the jewels are linked to women of Italian royalty known for their outrageous lives, loves and festas.

This horse head brooch is made with 18k white gold with 26 rubies, 24 trapezoidal step diamonds and diamond pavé

“The main inspiration of the Festa collection is happiness. Joy, and sharing that joy with others in a public or private celebration is very much part of the Italian art de vivre,” Silvestri said. “This is something you can find in Rome, in Venice, in Tuscany, in Puglia, everywhere in Italy. The Festa runs deep in our way of life. The theme is closely linked to Bulgari, as one of the purposes of our jewels is to give joy and happiness to the women who wear them.”

This gift wrapped necklace is made of 18k pink gold with yellow green chalcedony, 38 diamonds and diamond pavè

Two pieces in the collection, the Palio necklace and bracelet, refer to the Tuscan city of Siena and its legendary horse race: the Palio, which dates back to the Middle Ages. The race normally takes place twice a year in July and August. The colors of Siena’s 17 contrade (districts), whose riders participate in the race, are included in the two jewels. Silvestri said Bulgari worked for months in close collaboration with city authorities to get the 17 colors of the contrade right. Two necklaces and two pairs of earrings are inspired by two of the 17 contrade: la Pantera and la Lupa. Horses used in the races are present in the form of in diamond, ruby and onyx brooches.

This sweet ice cream treat is a brooch made with 18k pink gold with three buff-top rubies and diamond pavé

The Tarantella—a rapid whirling dance celebration in southern Italian regions of Calabria, Puglia and Sicily—is often performed at weddings and private celebrations. However, there’s an annual festival where people can dance until dawn. A necklace in the form of spiders’ nests; and two sautoirs, a bracelet and a pair of earrings are inspired by the popular folk dance.

Platinum necklace set with a 26-carat round cabochon Colombia emerald, 47 round brilliant cut diamonds, 90 buff top Emeralds, 36 baguette cut diamonds and diamond pavé

Some of the jewels in the collection are designed to bring back childhood memories with the use of gold, enamel, diamonds, tourmalines, turquoises, coral and jade. Bulgari calls them “happy jewels,” which range from sweet desserts to party favors. They include rings that depict pistachio, lemon and raspberry, chocolate and cream cakes. Precious balloon necklaces and earrings made of gold, diamonds and colored gems are also part of the collection.

This platinum necklace is mounted with a 53-carat round Colombia emerald, eight pear shaped diamonds, eight emeralds, 31 pear-shaped diamonds and round diamond pavè

“We have explored new alliances of stones and colors,” Silvestri said. “In some jewels, the green of emeralds is mixed with the blue of sapphires and the pink of spinels.”

Rome, the home of Bulgari, gets special recognition with a number of pieces, including the Monete Secret-Watch pendant is a statement piece. A silver tetradrachm (an Ancient Greek silver coin) depicting the profile of Alexander the Great, the King of Macedonia and Conqueror of the Persian Empire, decorates the front cover of the octagonal pendant—made of pink gold, diamonds and rubies— opens to reveal a skeletonized dial, exposing the in-house tourbillon caliber BVL 208.

18k pink gold necklace set with five pink rubellite tourmalines, four purple double rose amethysts, 83 bead sapphires (31,84 ct) and diamond pavé

Others pieces that reflect the “Eternal City” are a ruby ring that depicts the Piazza Navona; and a 12.10-carat ruby set in the pendant of a necklace surrounded by diamonds. The color represents the official coat of arms of the city.

Platinum ring centered with a 15-carat emerald-cut diamond (D FL) and diamond pavé

More than 30 jewels are dedicated to three Italian princesses: Maria Mancini, Principessa Colonna (1639-1715), Paolina Bonaparte, Principessa Borghese (1780-1825), and Margherita di Savoia, Regina d’Italia (1851-1926). Among the highlights are a sautoir set with a 26.10-carat cabochon emerald, a 41.98-carat bead emerald and 104 South Seas Akoya pearls; a ring and necklace set with a cabochon emerald; and a secret bangle-watch.

Bulgari's new collection brings la dolce vita to high jewelry.

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Gemfields Becomes Debt-Free as Emerald Sales Shine

An increased demand for emeralds has resulted in a huge turnaround for Gemfields Plc. The emerald company reported that it earned $15.5 million for the six-month period ended December 31, 2010, compared with a $5.8 million loss for the same period of the prior year. Revenue from rough and finished emerald sales more than doubled year-over-year to $29 million for the period. The company also declared that it is debt free, with $15.5 million in cash available.

The London-based company’s primary businesses is the ownership and operation of the Kegem emerald mine in Zambia and a gemstone cutting and polishing facility in Jaipur, India.

The company reports that gemstone production in the first six months of the current financial year was 18.7 million carats, exceeding the entire prior year’s production of 17.4 million carats. In addition, per-carat prices for Kagem mine emeralds rose for the period as a result of the continuing increase in demand for consistently supplied ethical emeralds across all major markets.

The mine is producing 567 carats of emerald per ton, significantly above the average over the past years. In addition, the cost of mining emeralds fell by nearly half to 35 cents per carat.

The company is currently hosting an emerald auction in Jaipur, India, that will run until March 14.

“Gemfields has enjoyed an excellent six month period in which our output from the Kagem mine exceeded the entire prior year’s production,” said Ian Harebottle, Gemfields CEO. “In addition, we are seeing a significant increase in global demand for Gemfields’ ability to provide a consistent supply of well graded and ethically sourced emeralds, as is clearly demonstrated by the record sales of USD 19.6 million achieved at the December 2010 auction. Following the encouraging results reported at our previous year end, the group has continued to enjoy stronger margins, leaving us with a robust and debt free balance sheet. In line with our ongoing inventory and market building initiatives, we do not intend to host a further high grade auction in the coming half year, meaning that revenues during the second half will be derived ostensibly from the upcoming lower grade auction on 10-14 March 2011.”

Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari Jewelry Exhibit on Rodeo Drive

Elizabeth Taylor sapphire and diamond sautoir will be among the Bulgari jewels on display.

Elizabeth Taylor fans will have another opportunity to view some of the most important jewels from her legendary collection.

The Beverly Hills Bulgari boutique on Rodeo Drive will showcase an eight-piece exhibit of Elizabeth Taylor’s jewels on Tuesday, according to published reports. The jewels are on display as a preview to the Academy Awards, which will be held Sunday.

Emerald and diamond suite.

The Italian luxury jewelry house purchased its own pieces during the record-breaking auction of Elizabeth Taylor’s jewels held at Christie’s New York in December 2011. Among the items on display are an emerald and diamond necklace that it bought for $6.1 million, setting records for an emerald jewel and emerald per carat; and an 8.26-carat emerald and diamond pendant brooch that Bulgari purchased for $6.5 million (both pictured above as part of the emerald and diamond suite). The brooch was Taylor's first piece of Bulgari jewelry, according to reports.

Another item is a sapphire and diamond sautoir that Bulgari bought at the auction for $5.9 million (top photo).

A special preview of the display will be held Tuesday from 11:30 a.m. till 1:30 p.m., according to reports.

Follow this link to view more of Taylor's jewels from the Christie's New York auction.

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Sotheby’s to Offer 75-Carat Diamond with $12 Million Price Tag

The centerpiece of Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale on April 17 will be a 75-carat pear-shaped, D-color diamond that the auction house says it is “the most important white diamond ever to appear at auction in the Americas.” It is estimated to sell for $9 million to $12 million.

The spring auction will offer 400 lots of jewelry, gemstones and pearls with an estimated sale value of more than $35 million. Among the other offerings are the following:

* Fancy pink diamond and diamond pendant ear clips. The pear-shaped pendants weigh 5.79 and 5.68 carats. Its estimate is $3.5 million to $4.5 million

* From the Estate of Lynn Wolfson, a square emerald-cut diamond ring with a 21.46-carat, D color, Internally Flawless, type IIa diamond. Its estimate is $2.5 to $3.5 million.

Six jewels from the family of financier and railroad magnate Jay Gould acquired in the first half of the 20th Century. Among the items:
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* From the Estate of Sarah Cantine Shrady Gould and Thence by Descent, an emerald and diamond brooch featuring a 22.48-carat, Classic Colombian emerald. Estimate $400,000 - $600,000.

* From the Estate of Florence Bacon Gould Sturgeon and Thence by Descent, an emerald and diamond ring with a 15.23-carat Classic Colombian emerald, circa 1930. Estimate $750,000 - $1 million.

Other highlights of the sale include:

* From a distinguished European collection, a carved colored stone, diamond and pearl “Tutti Frutti” Bracelet by Cartier. Estimate $300,000 - $500,000.

* Formerly from the collection of Katharine Dexter McCormick, a ruby and diamond ring featuring a 4.36-carat, classic Burmese ruby, circa 1900. Estimate $400,000 - $600,000

* From the Estate of Micheline Muselli Lerner, a diamond Rivière Necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate $125000 - 175,000

* A diamond, onyx and emerald panther brooch by Cartier. Estimate $150,000 - $250,000

Highlights from the sale will be on view in the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Center April 3 – 7 before returning to New York for exhibition on April 13, alongside a selection of pieces from the upcoming Geneva auction of Magnificent Jewels & Noble Jewels.

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The Oscars Red Carpet Jewelry Fashion

Amy Adams wins the “Red Carpet Bling” award wearing $1.35 million worth of emerald and diamond jewelry from Cartier, including a platinum and diamond emerald haute joaillerie secret watch bracelet worth $1.025 million. The bracelet features a 30.75 carat carved emerald and 575 diamonds (15.38 cts.). It’s matched with platinum and diamond ct. stud earrings worth $35,000.

An inability to sign into Twitter yesterday combined with wanting to actually watch the Oscars led to this listing of red carpet jewelry to appear a bit late. There was much blogging and tweeting last night and from my reading the vast majority of experts and passionate enthusiasts were happy with the selection of jewelry at last night’s event. I hope you enjoy this rundown of Oscar jewelry looks as much as you no doubt enjoyed the other excellent coverage on the Web.

Best Actress winner Natalie Portman accessorizes with Tiffany's jewelry, including a Tiffany rubellite tassel earrings set with rose-cut diamonds, an Elsa Peretti Diamonds by the yard bracelet. In addition, she wore diamond earrings as hair accessories and a diamond ring by Jean Schlumberger.

Portman's Black Swan co-star Mila Kunis wears Neil Lane diamond and platinum cocktail ring, line bracelet, bangle and earrings totaling 30 carats.

Supporting actress winner Melissa Leo in a Forevermark 2.05-ct. diamond drop earrings paired with a 10-ct. Forevermark diamond flower ring.

Anne Hathaway, in a $10 million, 94-ct. Tiffany Lucida Star Diamond necklace. The necklace was paired with 10-ct. diamond earrings from Tiffany, and a 5-ct. diamond ring.

Dame Helen Mirren on the red carpet in a vintage platinum necklace from 1907 set with diamonds and pearls and a large diamond and platinum bracelet from Cartier’s Archive Museum Collection.

Nicole Kidman in a 150-ct. 19th Century Riviere diamond necklace by Fred Leighton.

True Grit star Hailee Steinfeld wears platinum and 10-ct. diamond headband, and a platinum and diamond ring by Fred Leighton.

Sandra Bullock in diamond and platinum stud earrings with vintage platinum and diamond bangles by Harry Winston.

Gwyneth Paltrow in earrings, a brooch, and a ring from Louis Vuitton’s jewelry collection, L’Ame du Voyage.

Cate Blanchett in Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry.

Presenter Hilary Swank in Anna Hu jewels on the red carpet.

Best Actress nominee Michelle Williams wearing Harry Winston earrings.

Penelope Cruz in a 10-ct. pink sapphire ring with two carat diamonds by Chopard.

Reese Witherspoon in 35-ct. emerald drop earrings by Neil Lane.

Celine Dion in Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry.

Marisa Tomei in Van Cleef & Arpels sapphire, diamond and emerald earrings.

Kate Winslet accessorizes wears Tiffany.